How much can I expect to pay for a relatively clean 242?

[SABLE]

Hey, I'm back. I made a post asking about 240s back in August, no one thought I'd actually get one, and yet here I am. Petty discussions aside, I have a steady job that pays minimum wage, so for a broke teenager, I need to count every dime that enters my back account.

I'm beginning to make a spreadsheet and do the math on getting a 240, and I really wanna get a 242. However, I'm not an idiot. I understand there's not many left, and grabbing a 92 or 93 240 sedan is probably my best bet. But, I wanna know. How much can I expect to pay for a relatively clean 242?

[fatcatbestcat]

More than you should. Sometimes you can find rusty or non-running ones out in the country for cheap, but most people will know what they have.

Someone can correct me here, but they stopped doing the coupes in 1984-1985, so they're comparatively rare.

[OldCarNewTricks]

I purchased mine back for a measly $300. But it's not running, and because of the year set, there is biodegradable wiring that needs replaced. I found a late 60's 142 in need of complete restoration hiding behind a car lot a few weeks ago. Beautiful blue car with R15 style wheels. They wanted only $2500-3000 for it.

[Khrrck]

Also consider that if you get the absolute bottom of the bargain bucket price wise, there will be some very expensive or time consuming things wrong with it. Especially if you are young with limited resources.

Wagons are kind of in the middle ground pricing wise.

[fatcatbestcat]

Originally Posted by Khrrck

Also consider that if you get the absolute bottom of the bargain bucket price wise, there will be some very expensive or time consuming things wrong with it. Especially if you are young with limited resources.

This.



You go cheap, you end up with something like this.

If you find one for a good price, either get one that runs or is rust free. It'll be hard to find both at the same time.

[OldCarNewTricks]

Mine is rust free, but doesn't run. I agree with this. Also, remember that 242's use unique parts, such as seat belts, seats, doors, etc. These parts are relatively hard to find. Mine now has 244 seats, and my driver seat belt will need sent in for re-webbing, as opposed to just buying a new one like you can for 245 and 244 cars.

I expect any cheap 242 will need a good bit of work by now.

[jrv6a]

Let's see if I can add anything to the discussion that might help get you into your dream car.

Here's a link to one in Miami that I shared in the orphan thread. The asking price is $8900. You can at least plot that in your spreadsheet.

I can't give you much insight beyond what the other members have provided, but maybe this will help... experience has taught me that these older Volvos are really valuable to those of us who love them, BUT they are kind of worthless to many other people. For example, I'm in Central FL, and last year a 242GT popped up on the Orlando facebook marketplace for $3K. It sat there for two months before the price dropped to $2500. I saw that ad for another month at that price. I bet in Portland that thing would have sold in a minute.

It's not the same, but the other day a running 145 popped up in the Jacksonville facebook marketplace. The asking price was $1500. After a week the ad said "free to good home." A few months ago, a 245 popped up on the Space Coast craigslist for $800. It dropped to $700 to $500 to $350. When my current 145 appeared on craigslist, I waited a week before calling. When I went to look, the guy said I was the only one to call. I passed on it. A month later he called me and said, "you're the only call I got. Make an offer." Again, the wagons don't exactly compare to the shorties, but boxy Volvos are only sexy to us insiders.

If you can wait until summer break, maybe you could score your dream car by scanning craigslist and facebook in towns where the demographics tend not to appreciate Swedish steel.

Best of luck! Be patient. Post updates when you find your car.

[nel621]

Location, location, location.

[SABLE]

I'm from the suburbs of Philadelphia.

[Redwood Chair]

~ $2500 on the best coast plus ~1K + to transport it back to the wrong coast.

[dl242gt]

Here in the rust belt they have become quite rare. However, being outside of Philly they did sell a lot of Volvos around there. So, keep looking and you may find what you are looking for. For a running driving car. I'd say people would ask around 2500-3000. There was one for sale in Northern NJ a few months ago asking $3500. It was a solid car that needed a few things but was running and driving.

The market around here doesn't appreciate old Volvos so you have that going for you. Just be patient and keep looking. My main suggestion would be to buy a sedan or wagon. That will get you into a 240 and you will learn how to work on your own car. After a year or two of learning about 240s you'll have the knowledge and experience to find what you want in a 242. Also hopefully the money. There are usually some Volvo people selling a reasonable priced sedan or wagon around here. Come on board and get a sedan or wagon. You'll still get the Volvo driving experience with one. Good Luck!

[240240]

Originally Posted by SABLE

Hey, I'm back. I made a post asking about 240s back in August, no one thought I'd actually get one, and yet here I am. Petty discussions aside, I have a steady job that pays minimum wage, so for a broke teenager, I need to count every dime that enters my back account.

I'm beginning to make a spreadsheet and do the math on getting a 240, and I really wanna get a 242. However, I'm not an idiot. I understand there's not many left, and grabbing a 92 or 93 240 sedan is probably my best bet. But, I wanna know. How much can I expect to pay for a relatively clean 242?

What are your goals with the car?

[Mr. V]

OP, you might want to widen your search to include redblocks newer than the 240, i.e. 740 and 940.

I own and maintain turbocharged models of each of them and think they're good cars.

Older 'bricks should not be overlooked either: my daily driver is an '82 244 Turbo: I've replaced A LOT of its components, including wiring harness, as even old Volvos wear out over time.

A couple good things about old bricks: parts are still readily available, they are well built and last, are pretty easy to work on and when set up correctly they handle well and are fun to drive.

[kampman]

Honestly it seems like a lot of the basic stuff to make these cars drive is getting hard to find especially if you don’t have a later model or don’t want to shell out for whatever Volvo is putting in blue boxes nowadays. No one makes good OE style strut mounts, all of the OE quality aftermarket bushings have gone NLA, steering racks are hens teeth, etc. etc. There are some performance parts available to fill the void but not on $8/hr and supplies can be inconsistent. 242s are all going to be K-Jet or early LH and that stuff doesn’t exactly grow on trees (or land in the yards) any more, either.

Price wise I agree with RWC, I think you’d be doing pretty good to get a driver for $2500, anything under that is gravy. BAT and the Swedes are driving up the prices of really nice ones.