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Old 02-21-2021, 10:07 PM   #1
wolf_walker
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Question Is anyone selling 240 5.0 mounts now?

Converse Engineering seems to have disappeared, saw some LS stuff her and there but nothing for the ole 5.0 in a 240.
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Old 02-21-2021, 10:23 PM   #2
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No vendors afaik, but they are rather simple to source or make on your own.
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=250266
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Old 02-22-2021, 11:09 AM   #3
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Why would you want to?
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Old 02-22-2021, 11:14 AM   #4
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Time has moved on from the 5.0. Find a $500 iron block junkyard LS motor.
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Old 02-22-2021, 11:55 AM   #5
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I made a post on the V8 Volvo’s FB page a while back about the ones I made. Super easy to fab them up yourself.
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Old 02-22-2021, 12:20 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blkaplan View Post
Why would you want to?
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Originally Posted by JohnMc View Post
Time has moved on from the 5.0. Find a $500 iron block junkyard LS motor.
Hey now. Some of us still like the old things. And for some of us, hell will freeze over before we own a POS Chevy.

Time has moved on from the Volvo 240 too, and the 740, 940, whatever. Time has definitely moved on from the Volvo redblock engine. Does that mean they should all be crushed and everyone should give up and drive 5 year old Accords?

5.0 in an old Volvo still is a great option, still makes enough power to be dangerous, still a clever lightweight and compact design with excellent power density, smooth running, cheap to buy and modify and overhaul, good mileage, reliable and tough, great sound, classic look under the hood. Everyone and their brother has an LS. Good to see something different.

OP: Converse's mount adapters were nothing fancy or worth spending money on, just use the recipe from testpoint linked above, simple.
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Old 02-22-2021, 12:56 PM   #7
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I can grab a pic of the JTR version of the 5.0 mounts. That’s what mine are based on.
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Old 02-22-2021, 01:28 PM   #8
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Arent those close to the speedway bar mount?
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Old 02-22-2021, 07:42 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by v8volvo View Post
Hey now. Some of us still like the old things. And for some of us, hell will freeze over before we own a POS Chevy.

Time has moved on from the Volvo 240 too, and the 740, 940, whatever. Time has definitely moved on from the Volvo redblock engine. Does that mean they should all be crushed and everyone should give up and drive 5 year old Accords?

5.0 in an old Volvo still is a great option, still makes enough power to be dangerous, still a clever lightweight and compact design with excellent power density, smooth running, cheap to buy and modify and overhaul, good mileage, reliable and tough, great sound, classic look under the hood. Everyone and their brother has an LS. Good to see something different.

OP: Converse's mount adapters were nothing fancy or worth spending money on, just use the recipe from testpoint linked above, simple.


Yeah, I always liked the little windsor for a 300hp affair, I thought last I'd looked a few years ago a 5.0/T5 was
just about a bolt in deal for a 240 by then. But it's been a good while ago.

Pop has an LS in his Comanche pickup, 5.7, stick, 4wd, it's ok. I think I like the LT1 in the Jag better tbh.
The 5.0 is tidy and well known, always thought it'd be fun in a daily 240 instead of moar turboing the
redblock yet again. Guess I'll just wing it if I can find a decent drivetrain. Sure are a lot more LS's out there though.
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Old 02-22-2021, 08:38 PM   #10
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For 300-400hp, it's hard to beat the 5.slow platform. It's a lot more compact than a LS based engine, and with aluminum heads they're a smidge heavier than a redblock.
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Old 02-22-2021, 08:40 PM   #11
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I'm not a fan of the motor really but I do have to say the 5.0 with a nice exhaust is one of the best sounding domestic engines ever.

Just curious, why not a newer 4.6?
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Old 02-23-2021, 01:40 PM   #12
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For 300-400hp, it's hard to beat the 5.slow platform. It's a lot more compact than a LS based engine, and with aluminum heads they're a smidge heavier than a redblock.
Yeah. They look sharper in the engine bay too, IMHO. The LS motors have a lot of cheap looking plastic up top, including plastic intake manifold. The various different cast aluminum factory intakes on the 5.0L are artwork by comparison. Many of the aftermarket ones are nice too, Edelbrock, Trick Flow, etc.

Decent roller cam, throttle body, intake, and exhaust, and an EFI 5.0L is over 300hp no problem, with perfect driveability. Can it put out 500-600 turbocharged hp without breaking itself or the bank, or becoming unruly to drive? No. But how many folks are seriously chasing 600hp?

Obviously the LS works and is probably "better" in every way, but the sound and feel of the older motors is nice and of course in this game preference always trumps functionality.... again, otherwise we'd all be leasing late model crossovers and sending all this old '60s technology RWD isht back to the foundry.

Then again I'm a lifelong GM hater so take all my opinions with a grain of salt.

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I'm not a fan of the motor really but I do have to say the 5.0 with a nice exhaust is one of the best sounding domestic engines ever.

Just curious, why not a newer 4.6?
4.6 is physically huge with the OHC heads, and heavier. Smaller displacement than the 5.0 but closer in external size to a 460. They are great motors too but harder to stuff into tight bays like the 240. Couple of 4.6L swaps here are documented, check out the exhaust and steering shaft clearance on them and what they had to do with brake assist, etc, a lot more effort. Not to say it isn't worth it. But the beauty of the 5.0L (or the SBC/LS, to be fair) is how easily it slips in where a 4cyl used to be, in a Volvo, or in many other rigs. It's of course how Shelby's original Cobra, Sunbeam Tiger, etc all came to be as well.
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Old 02-23-2021, 01:50 PM   #13
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Guess I'll just wing it if I can find a decent drivetrain. Sure are a lot more LS's out there though.
I think that's the big issue now, not so much whether they do/don't work well, but availability. Used to be cheap wrecked Fox bodies were everywhere for almost free and grabbing a complete good runner 5.0/T5 drivetrain, ready to drop in, was something you could do for a few hundred bucks every day of the week.

Now all the abused/smashed Foxes are already long picked over and gone, while the decent ones that are left have become classics and too valuable/desirable to harvest for parts. Even the later SN95 cars are getting thin on the ground.

Still a lot of the late '90s/early '00s 5.0 Explorers around, and pickup truck motors of course too, but then you're starting with a setup that needs more added to it, maybe has the funky Explorer headers that need changed or a truck intake manifold, need to find a trans separately, etc.

Still a good swap, IMO, but the combination of factors that used to make the 5.0 a no-brainer swap motor was that it worked beautifully AND they were abundant. The first is still true but the second is not.
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Old 02-23-2021, 02:45 PM   #14
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I still want to put a 351 Cleveland in a volvo myself. Also you could make your 3 oh two a boss version and put Cleveland heads on it then it would roll!
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Old 02-23-2021, 02:56 PM   #15
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Also you could make your 3 oh two a boss version and put Cleveland heads on it then it would roll!
The famous "Clevor". Always heard those were the hot setup back in the day.

Of course there are so many good aftermarket aluminum heads for the 5.0 out there that that would be a much easier path to probably the same power now....
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Old 02-23-2021, 05:23 PM   #16
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Another bonus with the 5.slow is that it the oil pump won't take a dump from high revs like the LS pumps do. Swap out the stock oil pump hex- drive for an ARP one and you're good for 7k rpm all day.
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Old 02-23-2021, 09:20 PM   #17
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After having done an lt1 swap and a 302 swap in 240's, I can tell you conclusively the 5.0 is an easier fit all around, not to mention leaving room for turbo(s) and such. You can practically grab the entire package out of a foxbody from engine, t5, driveshaft, and use one of Yoshifab's driveshaft to rear hockey puck adapters. Wasted spark from the factory, or easily use the 36-1 crank trigger and cam sensor from an exploder to have sequential ignition. The longtube headers fit so much easier around the 302 than the chevy. LT1 motors can still be found in JY caprice's and camaros, but forget about finding GM T5's to fit... T56's are selling $1000 broken.

You can always find ford T5's and engines, especially from the aforementioned exploders.

None of the heads (lt1 or 5.0) can compare to even the most bargain basement lsx heads... lt1 might come close with places like advanced induction but the lsx swap has it's own idiosyncracies... what electronic transmission are you going to put behind it? How are you going to control it? How much of the crossmember is going to have to disappear... none of these mind you will cause interference to the motivated installer but they aren't issues faced by the 5.0 which can still be found for Tb money.
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Old 02-23-2021, 09:41 PM   #18
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Stock, untouched crossmember, room for a turbo (big single up front on the passenger side), 6 spd manual (CD009) that's pretty cheap and easy to find, no electronics on the trans on mine.

Granted, the kit to stick the CD009 style trans behind an LS, and a top mount shifter (to fit the 240) weren't cheap, but all together, a bit less than a T56.

I did pay a bit extra for an aluminum Gen 4 5.3 - but not too much more - $1500 shipped. It's pretty light. Unfortunately I didn't get a good weight comparison between the 16V turbo redblock/T5 I pulled out to make way for the LS turbo/CD009, but just guestimating by the front ride height it's barely any more.

If there's anything I've learned over the years of slowly modifying my 240, it's to plan for future growth in HP. You get used to 200 hp, and want more. Then you get used to 250 hp. Then 300 hp. Then 350 hp. It's maybe around 550 hp right now (6 psi on pump gas) with the turbo LS, but I figure with more fuel pump, boost control, better rear axle it will make 700 hp. And if I want even more, it's far easier to add onto the basics than it is to rip it all out and start over again from scratch.
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Old 02-23-2021, 09:57 PM   #19
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I went with a Tremec TKO600, Yoshifab T5 crossmember, and Ford trans mount. And as JohnMc did, I also went with the aluminum block LS. I paid the same, but then added a rebuild and cam upgrade because they did it cheaper than I could myself.

I'm building the car to take way more power than I actually have at the moment. "Plan for future growth" is really good advice.
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Old 02-24-2021, 02:22 PM   #20
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See if anybody has a set of mounts that can be copied. I met Ross at NHIS 30 years ago, he had heard about my car with the Chevy motor in it. I made my own mounts for the Chevy 350 back in Dec '88, some where I still have the patterns for the Chevy mounts.
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Old 02-24-2021, 02:28 PM   #21
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"Plan for future growth" is really good advice.
Buy once, cry once as they say. Lol.

It's certainly true that with certain rock solid goals, there are cheaper ways to accomplish the task. 8V with a big turbo. 16V with a turbo. V8 with no boost. V8 with a little boost. V8 with all the boosts.

You just have to be honest with yourself and think if your goals will really remain static or not.

Although from a practical standpoint, at least on street tires, going up in HP from about 300 only makes the car faster in higher gears, you're just going to be traction limited until higher and higher speeds. But still, having 4th gear pull harder than 1st gear used to is pretty intoxicating.
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Old 02-25-2021, 03:31 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by 2turbotoys View Post
I'm building the car to take way more power than I actually have at the moment. "Plan for future growth" is really good advice.
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Buy once, cry once as they say. Lol.

It's certainly true that with certain rock solid goals, there are cheaper ways to accomplish the task. 8V with a big turbo. 16V with a turbo. V8 with no boost. V8 with a little boost. V8 with all the boosts.

You just have to be honest with yourself and think if your goals will really remain static or not.

Although from a practical standpoint, at least on street tires, going up in HP from about 300 only makes the car faster in higher gears, you're just going to be traction limited until higher and higher speeds. But still, having 4th gear pull harder than 1st gear used to is pretty intoxicating.
This discussion is a little off the rails of the OP's original question. But since we're at it, I will say this, for a friendly counterpoint:

You can have other goals for a build besides just power. Many of us go with a V8 not so much for speed but for silence, comfort, smoothness, flexibility. The 4 cylinder redblocks all suck for NVH. Their driveability with stock turbos is good, but the bigger the turbo, the worse it gets. A naturally aspirated V8 will produce the same power at generally similar cost but the operating characteristics are much calmer and won't wear you down after a couple hours.

Making decisions that accommodate more future growth is always a good idea, sure, provided they are within realistic context. Running a clutch that has a little extra capacity, a radiator that can exhaust a little more heat beyond what you're making now. But inevitably there are tradeoffs, either in cost or functionality, for building something that is capable of performance way beyond the present envelope. Wide tires mean tramlining on the highway. Having to swap to a heavier rear axle means worse wheel hop on broken pavement, and more difficult wheel options entirely aside from the cost and effort of doing it. Bigger driveshaft, etc, etc. Need serious, serious brake and suspension changes to be safe with major power increase. The car is a system, not a sum of parts, and to deal with 700hp in a '60s body shell originally designed to have a B18 under the hood there is a LOT of work to do. I disagree that everyone needs to have a Hellcat level ultimate outcome in mind with every decision they make. All for not being shortsighted and planning for what you really want in the end, but there's also something to be said for optimizing for something more suited to the actual task in mind as long as that task is well developed -- not necessarily always the full nuclear scenario. Unless you really are gonna go for 700hp or more in the end, heavier and tougher parts are not only unnecessary and expensive, but can also make the car worse to live with.

Me, I cannot imagine wanting more than a few hundred hp in an old Volvo. I've had that much and it was fun, but enough. Can't put the power down until 4th gear? That's way over 100mph. When and how often can you do that outside of a racetrack? And in an antique car with no modern safety equipment and no rollcage or helmet?? Devil's advocate, but they are serious questions.

I will take something that feels good in real world driving any day at 1/5th the cost and effort of something that can break the tires loose at triple digit speeds. There's a place for swaps that bolt together with minimal cost and effort and deliver a nice, snappy-feeling product within the bounds of what can be used on a public road. YMMV, but I don't think everyone reading on here and planning their builds needs to shoot the moon with every single component choice.
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Old 02-25-2021, 03:39 PM   #23
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I didn't say anything else. I just said that if your goals aren't static, you might want to be honest about them up front and build to where you really want to go. Instead of redoing it multiple times as you get 'two-foot-itis'.

If you only want a couple of hundred HP, then you only want a couple of hundred HP . And like I said, there are cheapest and best practice ways of doing that.

It's just that the LS seems to handle a LOT of the potential high-HP goals. 300 hp? Bone stock on a wide range of LS engines. 400? Stock in a bunch, cam and springs on most of the rest. 500? 700? 1000? It all adds on incrementally on top of the same basic building block. Just add more boost and fuel and flow.
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Old 02-25-2021, 03:58 PM   #24
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^ Agree. But for those saying other good options (whatever they are, 5.0, whiteblock I-6, old LT1, etc) are not even worth considering because you can't get them to 700hp with bolt-ons, my point is that is irrelevant and silly. Yeah the LS is "best practice" for the huge power builds but unless you're going there, it's not any better than many alternatives that folks might find preferable for various reasons.

As you pointed out, beyond a certain point the extra power is useless for any practical purpose and just becomes a curiosity. And many of the high-capability decisions come with consequences, both in terms of cost and function. There is value to something that is fast and fun but easy to live with, runs the stock axle and driveline, has quiet exhaust, normal size tires and brakes, smooth ride. Certainly a stock or near-stock LS platform motor is great for that yes. But so are many other things that the LS crowd tends to dismiss because the potential for easy power over 500hp is not there. IMHO those comments miss the point.

Always good to start the build with the end result in mind, certainly with you there. All too common to see guys putting something together because it's what they've got handy, not what they actually want, and then being stuck with something that's not what they had in mind. Start with the vision of what you want when it's complete, and make the decisions based on that. And sure, it makes sense to accept your goal may increase over time and try to accommodate that. Within realistic bounds though.
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Old 02-26-2021, 10:23 AM   #25
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I think anyone looking at this issue from the far, far, far side of many projects sees the wisdom in setting long term goals at the outset, but we're talking about Tb here where Tb money (many orders of magnitude below FU-money) is the coil of the realm. The other thing going on here is that we end up seeing each other's projects and realizing what's possible in the "do I have the skills to do that, how much is that going to cost in Tb-money, do I need a welder?" design space... When I joined in 2004 it was all about just +T'ing the car... (THOUGHT PROCESS... can I do that? I think I can do that...**** I can do that... wow, I did it! ) I learned everything I know about cars today from the formative experience of plowing through a dozen iterations of engines, transmissions, exhaust, welders, etc. to get where I am now... saddled with a mortgage and a stressful job and a crappy old house.

I don't know what I'm going on about but yeah... newbs to the Tb sport have an easier time figuring what's possible because of all the the cool stuff that's been done by members in the past 20 years. If they decide one thing then change their minds later, yes... it will cost them, but it is part of the fun.
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