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Old 02-07-2021, 09:43 PM   #276
Making Volvo Parts Fit
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Join Date: May 2008
Location: Rockland County, NY

More paint

Removed the Rad/Fans/AC condenser to replace the damaged condenser

I'd like to have added a Volvo fan - but just no room to make it work

Cut slots to add side vents like a Volvo setup (took the flaps from my old V70 fan shroud)

New condenser attached

Adding a VW two-temp fan switch

Need to add a another fuse/relay panel up front to run the headlights, fans, etc.,


My XR July2013 - 446AWHP @ 8K rpm C30 AWD conversion Feedback Thread

Last edited by lookforjoe; 02-08-2021 at 09:01 AM..
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Old 02-16-2021, 10:52 PM   #277
Making Volvo Parts Fit
lookforjoe's Avatar
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Rockland County, NY

Been working on the rad/ AC cold. install - I decided to revise the layout after I found a posting from another X1/9 where they tipped the rad backwards to alleviate the fans pointing uphill into the back of the tub. I can't go as extreme as in my case the AC condensor & 3" rad core prevent the same degree of offset.

Normally the rad leans forward - following the nose rake - now I have it about 6" back. Added an angle bracket at the top to locate it whilst I rework the rad support

Started cleaning up all the wiring - going to use a Volvo 900/850/x70 fan relay

chopped up some 700 ancillary adjuster arms & used the sleeves & 1378153 bushings to isolate & mount the support at the required angle

in place

welded some 3/8 stock to the rad base & threaded about an inch

bushing to isolate rad some more

Rad didn't want to align with evenly spaced brackets - determined the rad was tweaked in the accident - so I bolted a couple 6' angle iron to it & tweaked it back

test fit - had to cut the lower hose due to the increased distance

fans now sit at half below the floor line & point downward compared to original layout

made seal attachments to close off gap above & below rad

riveted seal support brackets once I got the precise location figured out

then paint

just have to finish up the fan shroud mods to compensate for the revised offset

Last edited by lookforjoe; 02-16-2021 at 11:07 PM..
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Old 02-26-2021, 10:12 PM   #278
Making Volvo Parts Fit
lookforjoe's Avatar
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Rockland County, NY

Did some cleanup on the shroud, and also I added a locating tab - since I removed the lower frame section of the shroud the bottom edge is no longer rigid.

Started on the wiring for the fan circuit - I'm leaving all the stock wiring intact unused, except for the AC-on trigger. The Volvo relay will go under the molded AC hose/wiring cover. I'm moving the headlamp relay mod under that cover also.

although I have the big ugly fuse breaker & Honda ELD, I really don't want extra wires running over by the battery or over to the wiper relays, so I ran new wires crimped with the fusebox supply cable, in through the bulkhead & back out into the trunk following the stock harness. I used heavier (than the Fiat) gauge Volvo wires - to make sure I don't have load issues. These will be the fused 30 supplies to the headlamp relays, wiper relays, cooling fan relay, and something else I've probably forgotten at the moment

Tidied up the new wiring (constant feeds) to the fuse box, wired the two headlamp relays & the cooling fan supply relay, and added 2 switched feeds .

Plenty of spare fused circuits should I need them. So far, every time I thought I was done, I needed more circuits.

Added 2 M6 rivnuts for relays, cooling fan/sensor grounds - one for power (fan) grounds the other for sensor/relay coil

Fuse panel will go under here, eventually. I have to fix the inner fender / strut reinforcement behind it first - I was going to leave that until next year

Weather-proof connectors finally came so I got the body-side fan connections in place
Yazaki 58 series

VW fan switch connector & boot in place

For the larger ground connections I had to buy yet another tool - I have a hydraulic crimp tool, but that is only for closed barrel type, not 'open barrel'

Cut holes for tub vents / brake ducts - I'm keeping it non-structural, so no cutting of the frame rail. Using readily available ducting. 3x4 rectangle fits between the frame.

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