LH2.2 Tuning For Non-Volvo Installation

[lookforjoe]

Originally Posted by bent-grill

i know this wasn't your question but have you considered megasquirt? all it needs for inputs are an o2 sensor, a vacuum port for the map sensor, air and coolant temp sensors, and a crank trigger. then you just wire it to the injectors. you can control ignition with it as well by adding a coil pack or just let the stock ignition take care of it. you really have found the right bunch of guys when it comes to making the bosch setup work but I like the feeling that all of my engine management sensors are fresh and i can tune it myself without too much hassle. the budget for the entire system on my car came to about $500.00. Not a small chunk of change but its really nice.

I could have gone that route, as the car is old enough to qualify for only the NYS Annual Safety Inspection. MS conversion is documented on the Xweb X1/9 Forum.

Honestly, I'd rather stick with "factory' parts. I know the LH2.4 setup is tried & true. I only need to do minimal tuning for the 1600cc high compression motor I have, and the only cost to me with this setup is time - all the hardware I either had, or had access to at no monetary cost, so paying for an MS kit would be unneccesary addtional expense.

[lookforjoe]

Filed the 3º, 1/8th slots to match the rest. Elongated the mount slots I had previously cut to compensate for the revised positioning on the crank pulley





Was like this, has to be rotated two teeth CW to realign with trailing edge of long tooth

[lookforjoe]

Got the wheel trued, and readjusted to approx 1mm air gap.



Then I checked the 15 tooth count after the long tooth to verify TDC alignment - and realized I had set it based on the timing Mark (10BTDC) instead of the top TDC marker - so I have to extend the slots in the wheel to allow another 10dgree CW rotation of the trigger wheel

[lookforjoe]

Got the trigger wheel reset today - tail edge of the 15th tooth after long tooth now aligns with TDC marker





Got the speed signal transmitter installed, used heat sheathing on the harness due to proximity to header & oil cooler. Routed harness around firewall & over to the passenger compartment access point I added in the spare wheel well.





Removed speedo cable. Hopefully get going on the conversion after work tomorrow.

[lookforjoe]

Got the LH2.2 harness out & have the 2.4 harness through the firewall. Have to do the tie in to EZK, and arrange the routing for the injectors, CIS, IAC, etc.

[lookforjoe]

Worked on the 3" inlet pipe, IAC placement and wiring today





6an Union for branch to feed CSV (1069-06MF, Pegasus Auto Racing) (VPE-16486, Summit Racing)



Injector relay


Wiring tidied & overall component placement sorted





Flame trap hose



Diagnostics box

[lookforjoe]

Working on the inside wiring - got the main connections done.





Need to find and connect power from AC relay to ECU, power from AC pressure switch to ECU, speed signal to speedo, CEL signal to cluster, up shift signal to cluster, high and low speed fan to ECU, all connections to EZK ECU, and rewire hall switch connector for Crank position sensor input instead. Hopefully I'll get most of that done after work today

[lookforjoe]

Wiring is complete - engine will not start. I rechecked the pin out and harness connections, since I built it from scratch.

Basically, switched out put to fuel pump, etc is not present beyond the initial key- on prime.

Using the OBD, I have no crank signal ( constant flash instead of 141 code). My gut feeling is that the air gap
And/or the orientation of the CPS is the cause. Based on my last pic, the pickup is not level with the teeth of the trigger wheel


The resistance value of the CPS measured at the ECU connector is correct @ 179 ohms.

I'll play with the sensor offset tomorrow & see what's up

[justlie]

I bought a cheap USB scope on ebay to check readings like this. Well worth it when it comes to troubleshooting cam/crank sensors and others.

[ZVOLV]

Honestly, when I saw your pics of that trigger wheel, I didn't think it would work, but I wanted to be wrong!

Will 2.4 work with anything but a 60-2 wheel!?

labscope will tell you what your crank signal looks like. $80-$20,000

I think I may buy this one.

http://www.aeswave.com/uScope-Basic-...ter-p9275.html

[lookforjoe]

Originally Posted by ZVOLV

Honestly, when I saw your pics of that trigger wheel, I didn't think it would work, but I wanted to be wrong!

Will 2.4 work with anything but a 60-2 wheel!?

labscope will tell you what your crank signal looks like. $80-$20,000

I think I may buy this one.

http://www.aeswave.com/uScope-Basic-...ter-p9275.html

The trigger wheel was modified to the proper long tooth (60-2) configuration - so I'm confident that's not the issue - it's the absence of the signal. Air gap needs to be 1mm +/- .5mm, so it's a pretty wide spread (.020-.058") - I need to be certain the solid rim of the crank wheel is not infering also - but I'm pretty sure the pickup & trigger wheel are offset enough away from the surface.

[ZVOLV]

Looks like a fun experiment! I have been following.

I am also interested to see how your speed signal works out.

[linuxman51]

how does your trigger wheel stack up (in terms of thickness and tooth spacing) to a bmw 60-2? a number of those cars used balancer mounted trigger wheels back in the day.

Also, have you considered using a different pickup sensor? some of the MS guys switch to a hyundai sensor to clean up issues.

If you have even a basic scope available, you can scope the output from the filter circuit on the ezk box, check the buchka spark thread for the specific location. you might even be able to just make a basic led tester to see if it's doing anything at all.

[lookforjoe]

Originally Posted by justlie

I bought a cheap USB scope on ebay to check readings like this. Well worth it when it comes to troubleshooting cam/crank sensors and others.

Something like this, Justus?

"Hantek 6022BE PC-Based USB Digital Storage Oscilloscope 2 Channels 20MHz 48MSa/s" - around $60 on eBay....

[lookforjoe]

Originally Posted by linuxman51

how does your trigger wheel stack up (in terms of thickness and tooth spacing) to a bmw 60-2? a number of those cars used balancer mounted trigger wheels back in the day.

Also, have you considered using a different pickup sensor? some of the MS guys switch to a hyundai sensor to clean up issues.

If you have even a basic scope available, you can scope the output from the filter circuit on the ezk box, check the buchka spark thread for the specific location. you might even be able to just make a basic led tester to see if it's doing anything at all.

Thanks for the input - I haven't compared my EDIS wheel to others - it has the 3 degree gap / 6 degree tooth+gap spacing, so I would expect it to be correct that way.



I do need to first determine if I have any kind of a pulse - it doesn't seem like I do, since the OBD diagnostic for EZK116 does provide a code when a signal is present & accounted for by the ECU.

Since it produces a AC voltage signal, one would think that a multi meter that can read millivolts should pickup activity? I just need to verify that I have a pulse before I look any further at the rest of the system. No spark, no fuel, in that order.

[linuxman51]

Originally Posted by lookforjoe

Thanks for the input - I haven't compared my EDIS wheel to others - it has the 3 degree gap / 6 degree tooth+gap spacing, so I would expect it to be correct that way.

I do need to first determine if I have any kind of a pulse - it doesn't seem like I do, since the OBD diagnostic for EZK116 does provide a code when a signal is present & accounted for by the ECU.

Since it produces a AC voltage signal, one would think that a multi meter that can read millivolts should pickup activity? I just need to verify that I have a pulse before I look any further at the rest of the system. No spark, no fuel, in that order.

you might be able to get something from the multimeter in terms of a/c voltage, but it may not tell you much beyond "something may be happening", i.e. you won't be able to tell if a couple teeth aren't getting picked up, that sort of thing.

if you have a megasquirt/microsquirt you could borrow, you could try a toothlog from that, just grab the signal out from the ezk conditioner circuit, power, ground, and crank while watching the output on a laptop in the tooth logger window.

[justlie]

Originally Posted by lookforjoe

Something like this, Justus?

"Hantek 6022BE PC-Based USB Digital Storage Oscilloscope 2 Channels 20MHz 48MSa/s" - around $60 on eBay....

Yeah, that should work. Mine has the same specs, but looks different.

Also to what Kenny said, I use a BMW sensor on mine (with MS). The Volvo sensor don't seem provide a very good signal.

[ZVOLV]

Idle:




Rev:



Faster rev:

[lookforjoe]

Thanks for the visual pulse reference

I'll try moving the pickup tomorrow - if it works I'll know right away. If that doesn't resolve it, and it continues to be a no spark issue, I'll have to invest in a scope for further diagnosis.

What the specs / application for the BMW sensor? Is it also for LH or is it a Motronic application ? Since I'm sticking with LH, I'll need to make sure any potential component swaps are with compatible parts.

[sbabbs]

We'll if your getting a constant flashing from your code reader, that is not good. You need to fix that first.What hole are you putting the code reader into to read? You put it in number 2 or number 6. One is the EZK the other is the ECU.

I'd say your wiring needs to be fixed. I wouldn't worry about the crank sensor, the looks good. You have a wiring problem or some other problem. The OBD code reader needs to flash one, one, one right off the bat when you first hook it up. If you hook up the power and it isn't, then wiring problem or bad sensor or bad ECU or EZK.

I'd check the grounds... On a volvo lh2.4 car with the 240 harness the grounds are all at the intake manifold fuel rail.

Is your ECU grounded on it's ground pins?

Also you don't need any of these connections for LH2.4 to run the motor...

Need to find and connect power from AC relay to ECU, power from AC pressure switch to ECU, speed signal to speedo, CEL signal to cluster, up shift signal to cluster, high and low speed fan to ECU,

Also the high low speed fan to ECU controls the Efan and it controls it by grounding the relay.. So those high speed fan controls out of the ECU are grounds when the ECU flips them on, slow first then fast to ease the burden on the amps from battery. The relays are in 940's and 960's.

[Harlard]

I see this in your future:

https://www.diyautotune.com/product/...iring-harness/

[Lord_Athlon]

Isn't your trigger wheel the opposite of what ezk is looking for?



Try reversing the polarity of the sensor.

[lookforjoe]

Originally Posted by sbabbs

We'll if your getting a constant flashing from your code reader, that is not good. You need to fix that first.What hole are you putting the code reader into to read? You put it in number 2 or number 6. One is the EZK the other is the ECU.

I'd say your wiring needs to be fixed. I wouldn't worry about the crank sensor, the looks good. You have a wiring problem or some other problem. The OBD code reader needs to flash one, one, one right off the bat when you first hook it up. If you hook up the power and it isn't, then wiring problem or bad sensor or bad ECU or EZK.

I'd check the grounds... On a volvo lh2.4 car with the 240 harness the grounds are all at the intake manifold fuel rail.

Is your ECU grounded on it's ground pins?

Also you don't need any of these connections for LH2.4 to run the motor...

Thanks for looking in -

The constant flashing is under test mode while cranking for pulse test (sequence M6 in the Volvo EZK116K fault tracing guide) - the initial test of the diagnostic box (pin 6 for EZK) is good (1 -1 -1 ), throttle switch test gives the correct code, etc., I'm following the sequence as laid out in the manual. Constant flash when cranking (instead of code 141) indicates absence of pulse signal. The next test is resistance check of CPS. Since all tests of individual ignition components & wiring to them pass, what makes the most sense to me. Until I get the 141 code, it is safe to assume there is no pulse.

Since I didn't take either ECU from a running car, it is possible that one/both ECU's are bad, but they were marked as tested good. I want to check components before trying other ECU's.

ECU's both have correct ground, constant and switched power feeds.

I haven't hooked up any of those extra feeds yet, since they are not essential to initial startup / test of LH /EZK operation, that was more of a to-do list .

[lookforjoe]

Originally Posted by Lord_Athlon

Isn't your trigger wheel the opposite of what ezk is looking for?



Try reversing the polarity of the sensor.

I added the long tooth



It has 58 short teeth, 1 long tooth - however, the long tooth in that pic looks like more than two teeth? I don't have a stock Volvo LH flywheel to compare too, just the Volvo service manual, in which it looks more proportionately like mine than that flywheel....

Unless I should be counting gaps, not rises - that flywheel has 58 gaps, 57 teeth....

[lookforjoe]

Originally Posted by Harlard

I see this in your future:

https://www.diyautotune.com/product/...iring-harness/

Nah, not going MS. I will get it running. Always small hurdles when fabricating a conversion