LH2.2 Tuning For Non-Volvo Installation

[lookforjoe]

Ref this thread for oil cooler t/stat housing oring PN - Mine needed 925093 square cut oring

Originally Posted by lookforjoe

Waiting for the head work to be completed. Intake valves recessed another .010", exhaust valves recessed .040". Based on the calculations, that, along with the increase in piston volume above the ring land & larger flycuts should get me down from 10.7:1 to 10.3:1.

Doing the math on the revisons to calculate new static CR:

Using Steve C's (Xweb) Formula - bolded values are my revised numbers.

Volume at BDC is (swept volume - pop up volume)+ flycut and ring land clearance volume + gasket volume + chamber volume.

Volume at TDC is (volume in gasket - pop up volume) + flycut and ring land clearance volume + chamber volume.

Volume of BDC over Volume at TDC is expressed as a ratio to one (xx:1)

Your bore is 87.00
Your Pistons are 86.15 above the top ring land and the top ring groove is 8mm down from the crown.
Your Valve Flycut measured volume is 2.1cc
Your Piston sits at 0.65mm plus deck
Your Combustion Chamber measured volume is 36cc
Your head gasket is going to be 1.5mm compressed and has an inside fire ring diameter of 87.2mm (assuming a Felpro 21195-PT2)

So lets do some math...

Swept Volume of the cylinder.
Pi x R squared x Stroke
3.14285 x (43.5 x 43.5) x 67.4
3.14285 x 1892.25 x 67.4
400.831cc

Volume of the piston 'pop up'
3.14285 x (43.075 x 43.075) x 0.65
3.14285 x 1855.4556 x 0.65
3.790cc

Volume of the head gasket.
3.14285 x (43.6 x 43.6) x 1.50
3.14285 x 1900.96 x 1.50
8.961cc

Volume of the ring land clearance.
[3.14285 x (43.5 x 43.5) x 8] - [3.14285 x (43.075 x 43.075) x 8]
[3.14285 x 1892.25 x 8] - [3.14285 x 1855.4556 x8]
47.576cc - 46.651cc
.925cc

and then put these numbers into the equation,

Volume at BDC = (400.831 - 3.790) + 2.1 + 0.925 + 8.961 + 36 = 445.027

Volume at TDC = (8.961 - 3.790) + 2.1 + 0.925 + 36
= 43.271

Static Compression: V at BDC / V at TDC (445.027 / 43.271) =

10.285:1

note: there is a chamfer at the top of the piston that is not accounted for - actual compression will actually be less. Not sure how much less. Need to see if I can get the specs on that from Wiseco, I never measured the depth of the chamfer and the diameter of the crown inside the chamfer...

[bobxyz]

Try using this calculator: http://www.race-cars.net/calculators...alculator.html

It's pretty easy and accounts for all the bigger items - you'll need to subtract your .65mm piston popup from the gasket thickness and enter it in the gasket thickness box. For the ring land clearance, which I've never seen before, you can put your calculated volume in the piston dome box (-.925cc). I'm not sure why the valve flycut gets added in at all - isn't it already accounted for in the measured chamber volume?

[BTW: the value of pi in the equations you got from the other site is off a bit; should be 3.14159.]

[lookforjoe]

Originally Posted by bobxyz

Try using this calculator: http://www.race-cars.net/calculators...alculator.html

It's pretty easy and accounts for all the bigger items - you'll need to subtract your .65mm piston popup from the gasket thickness and enter it in the gasket thickness box. For the ring land clearance, which I've never seen before, you can put your calculated volume in the piston dome box (-.925cc). I'm not sure why the valve flycut gets added in at all - isn't it already accounted for in the measured chamber volume?

[BTW: the value of pi in the equations you got from the other site is off a bit; should be 3.14159.]

Thanks for the suggestion - using the calc this is what I get:



The flycut in the piston is not included in chamber volume using the other method. I added it to chamber cc.

10.1:1 is also good My goal was to get it down into the 10.1 - 10.3 range.

[lookforjoe]

Got it running last night.

welded the boss on the oil pan for the CPS, to make sure the air gap cannot alter



FIRST RUN VID

[lookforjoe]

Finshed the Exhaust today Magnaflow 12266 muffler. Now I can run it in & look into adjusting the timing mapping.

[lookforjoe]

Detour from the tuning end of things. Now that I have a decent increase in HP over stock, I can do the body mods..

chopped off front fenders & parts of the stock nose





bracing the lower nose section



inner fender supports



reworked the nose to take late '70's Ford Bronco (6054) headlamps







bonded to sheet metal after several on/off test fitments



starting the basic blend to stock fender line



detail body work is not my forte - so this may take quite some time. In areas where fill is required I'm trying to use as much metal/fibreglass as possible to get the fitment as close as possible to minimize filler depth. Once the front is roughed in I'll start on the rear body panels.

[lookforjoe]

Slight problem

(insert Blown HG pics here, damaged fire rings)

thankfully bores, pistons & head are all OK. I leak tested the piston/rings/bores - 16inHg on each, consistent & even.


I need to revise the timing map before I drive it again.

This is the Fiat spec range




What I have, using the NA EZK116




I'll load the Turbo map for starters, and maybe take some more off that.





Since I don't know what actual values I get in use, and where the load range falls on my 1600 vs 2300 - I may be , must be getting way to much timing in the part load range. All the fire rings are hammered around the bore, just those two pushed out.

EDIT: I'll have to try BeePee's LH datalogger mod (I'm using the 951 ECU)....

Dallara body work coming along - 960 lip added to the front spoiler & C30 rocker panel for the side front to rear integration

[BillyMaysHere]

You rock

[lookforjoe]

Now running pretty well with revised timing map in my 146 EZK, and modified fuel constant in the 951 ECU for the 24lb (0 280 155 832) injectors.



Made a new fuel rail from new stock, to replace the modified Honda rail I had previously.



Going to try narrow spray pattern injectors (0280150762) instead of the later 4 hole composites, to see if it makes a difference to drivability/fuel economy. The wide spray pattern may not be suitable for the narrow single valve runners.

Body work moving along steadily



Gotta wait for Spring now..

[lookforjoe]

Got the BTI board.

Installed in my box. Using pins 14,15 for signal output to power stage



Made a heat sink for the power stage, and standoff for the Bosch coil pack







replacing the cut wires with Volvo style connectors and wiring



Adaptor harness pretty much complete. Just have to trim to length & feed signal wires into cabin

[lookforjoe]

Installed the harness, Power stage & coil pack today. Removed the distributor, coil & standard terminal wire set.

Didn't start, so I checked the continuity for all the power connections. Every looked good. I had removed the ground for the stock power stage (which I forgot included the ECU ground), so I reattached that, and it tried to fire. Didn't sound right at all, so I reversed wires for 1-4 with 2-3, and it fired right up. I had wired IB1 to output 1 & IB2 to output 2 on the daughter card, OC1 to coil pin 3, and OC2 to coil pin 1



- based on this diagram



So, it seems the coil connections are inaccurate - I definitely have OC1 going to coil pin 3 & OC2 going to coil pin 1.

Coil pack & isolater board location



Power stage & heat sink location



Wires in place, distributor removed

[lookforjoe]

Switched to the Bosch PS



and added the tach feed relay




Fitted Honda S2000 seats & belts







Chopped up the instrument cluster to move the tach inboard





Volvo idiot light strips





EDIT: revised idiot light wiring with diode to prevent backfeed

Added zener circuit for knock indication led





Made an aluminum baffled expansion tank









On the way to Carlisle behind my son's 85 744TD manual swapped.



ticking along nicely



We were next to the Fiat section this year, so no dilemma as to where to park

[lookforjoe]

Found that tach was unreporting rpm - I was wondering why it was going flat around 4500, that was mainly cos it was actually @6rpm. I hooked up a Volvo tach, and determined that 3K was actually 4K, 4K was 5K, & 4,5K was actually 6K :(

Problem was due to the conditioner circuit in the tach relay - swapped it out with a relay only connected to 86, 85 as per Bijilsma diagram & tach seems to respond properly now.



EDIT - had to recalibrate the tach, it still under-reported after the relay switch

[lookforjoe]

Moved the knock sensor to the other side of the block - the port I was using was too close to the head - I never got any knock indications in any of the HG failures. No error codes when checking system. Water droplets on pipe are from where I cleaned the motor after taking the coolant port out.



Going to hook up a det can so I can start adding some timing back to the current map.



Using a 240 turbo 5bar OP sender & guage to monitor fuel pressure - it seemed to be dropping off under load. I had to raise base pressure to compensate for pressure drop when engine is hot. Setting the base pressure to 3bar hot, fixed the pressure drop issue. Problems of 8V non-cross flow head designs - fuel rail is obviously getting hot enough for fuel density to be an issue :(

[lookforjoe]

Blew another head gasket before I had a chance to test the det can.

Upon inspection, the fire rings over hang the bores on the foreward face. Not good. I did not catch that when I installed it 1K miles ago.



fire rings overhang the bores by an amount equal to the gap between bore & gaske visible at the rearward face



Where it blew out between 2&3. Head checked out fine & true by machine shop. Blocked was decked when motor was built.

.

Also found 3 wasted lobes on the cam & shims (identical to redblock)





Should have it back together tomorrow, as long as new cam shows up in time. Then I can take a listen using the det can to see if the knock sensor is not registering actual knock..

.

[Janspeed]

very nice project!
Isn't this engine a lot like that of a Fiat Uno Turbo-IE ? Back when these cars were new they were very popular for tuning so there is some aftermarket support for these engines.
Maybe you can use a Uno turbo MLS HG? The turbo engine is a 1.4L so i have no idea if the bores are the same as those in your engine.

[lookforjoe]

The HG doesn't show any signs of fire ring damage from detonation, so that is one good thing. Now I have the det can pickup attached to the block, I will be listening while I check the timing changes.

Got the new cam in (223, instead of 231), slightly milder, makes the EMS much happier for cold start/warmup, perhaps the low cold idle & lumpy running contributed to the failure, I dunno. I had to regrind a bunch of Volvo valve shims down to the thicknesses I needed - in .001" increments - took awhile.



Made heat shields to protect the fuel rail







rerouted the fuel delivery to get the FPR away from the expansion tank





tidied up the LH2.4 main harness inside


hard mounted the EZK116 ECU, had it velcro'd to the firewall mat previously



Switching to Valvoline VR1. See if that helps down the road.

[BillyMaysHere]

For the intake mani temps people claim that the (forget the material name) spacers between the head and intake keep the heat soak temps way down.

[BillyMaysHere]

Like Deez https://yoshifab.com/store/volvo-8-v...isolators.html

[Janspeed]

Originally Posted by BillyMaysHere

For the intake mani temps people claim that the (forget the material name) spacers between the head and intake keep the heat soak temps way down.

phenolic ?
i used to have those on my 940T, can't remember if i noticed much of a difference so i must have been underwhelmed by them. Maybe it is different in a tight midengine compartment?
Point is, those studs still provide a heat conducting metal bridge between head and intake manifold. So even if you install those spacers your intake manifold will still heat up.

[BillyMaysHere]

Originally Posted by Janspeed

phenolic ?
i used to have those on my 940T, can't remember if i noticed much of a difference so i must have been underwhelmed by them. Maybe it is different in a tight midengine compartment?
Point is, those studs still provide a heat conducting metal bridge between head and intake manifold. So even if you install those spacers your intake manifold will still heat up.

Yes. If that's ur worry than I'd slightly enlarge the intake holes

[sbabbs]

Yeah make em a wee bit bigger then the nut, no problem then right?

[lookforjoe]

Originally Posted by BillyMaysHere

For the intake mani temps people claim that the (forget the material name) spacers between the head and intake keep the heat soak temps way down.

Phenolic spacers can help on intakes. Volvo & Fiat (and others) used phenolic material for injector holders/spacers on K, D & L-Jet setups. Problem is, I don't have a cross flow head, so the problem is more to do with radiant heat off the exhaust, which the spacer would not address.

[Harlard]

Don't know whether knock detection will work at all for you using LH, as it's very carefully tuned to the bore size and material of the engine block..

[lookforjoe]

Originally Posted by Harlard

Don't know whether knock detection will work at all for you using LH, as it's very carefully tuned to the bore size and material of the engine block..

Interesting idea - it's carefully tuned to register a specific frequency range, yes. EZK 11x is not tuned specifcally to the redblock. B280 also used same setup, and other manufacturers The sensor placement is clearly most important.

I've run the car with a det can, and have no audible knock with the current setup - makes sense, since this last HG had no evidence of the obvious detonation damage to the fire rings.

See how it goes DTR