B230+T5 3k rpm shake

[carver]

Originally Posted by oldschoolvolvo

I installed one of the large slip yoke dampers and it also cured the decel rattle (1pc driveshaft).
https://forums.tbforums.com/showpost...&postcount=242

Looks like the part number is as follows for the 1310 version. It's been discontinued and looks to be a hard find.

E8TZ-4841-F

[Broke4speed]

What would the 1310 be from? Would be good to keep an eye out in the yards.

[carver]

Originally Posted by Broke4speed

What would the 1310 be from? Would be good to keep an eye out in the yards.

Hard to say but I'd assume early 90's Ford Rangers and V6 Mustangs....

[gsellstr]

Easy enough to crawl under and look for a 3" instead of 3.5" shaft. Just gotta get back to the yards one of these days...

[Broke4speed]

Perfect, that makes it easy .

[DavePolyakov]

Got my Spicer 2100842X Support Bearing today and it's huge compared to a stock 740 one. I will go test to see if it will fit in the 740, new holes will definitely need to be drilled into the plate that holds up the carrier bearing. The 740 one is still in the packaging because I will return it if I can get the Spicer one to fit.

[VB242]

Originally Posted by DavePolyakov

Got my Spicer 2100842X Support Bearing today and it's huge compared to a stock 740 one. I will go test to see if it will fit in the 740, new holes will definitely need to be drilled into the plate that holds up the carrier bearing. The 740 one is still in the packaging because I will return it if I can get the Spicer one to fit.

On the 242 I didn't use the u shaped metal part, I just cut some holes for the square part in the mounting plate, gsellster cut the square part off the rubber to make his fit. I'm getting ready to do my 780 so I'm really curious if you can make it work.

[gsellstr]

Yeah, I'm really curious as well. Like ^^^^ mentioned, I just made the rubber part round. Granted in a 140/240 the bearing carrier presses against the tunnel itself, instead of having the surround like the 7/9 has. That said, I know there's more room in the 740 tunnel than the stock carrier uses. Definitely will need other holes in the carrier plate. lol

Seeing those side by side, man, there's so much more heft in that Spicer one. Almost like they are designed to hold up and have power thru them.

[DavePolyakov]

The first test fit is a no go, the spicer is too wide. Unlike the 240 you need the two holes at the bottom so I have to keep the metal plate. My only option is to trim the outer section of the metal housing. Will this affect the integrity of the whole unit? It seems like it's only there for rigidity in the first place. Once I do it it will be basically the same as the stock 740 one and should definitely fit. I think I'm going to do it. Is this a good idea?


Edit: I don't think it's possible. This is a picture of the stock housing and there is actually much less clearance than I thought, probably 5mm. Even if I trimmed the metal down on the spicer unit it would still be too large. The only way to make it work would be to drop the plate with washers, but then this would alter driveline angles and you wouldn't be able to have any upward adjustment. The angles might be fine but I have no idea if they would be. Is it really the end of the world If I use the stock bearing?

[oldschoolvolvo]

separate the metal bracket from the rubber mount (they slide apart) and then trim the corners off of the rubber part so it is circular. It will then fit in the 240 mount under the car.

ref:
https://www.stsmachininginc.com/coll...-240-1974-1993

[DavePolyakov]

I have a 740.

Originally Posted by oldschoolvolvo

separate the metal bracket from the rubber mount (they slide apart) and then trim the corners off of the rubber part so it is circular. It will then fit in the 240 mount under the car.

ref:
https://www.stsmachininginc.com/coll...-240-1974-1993

[VB242]

What about either running some screws directly in to the rubber part or making your own strap out of a thin piece of flat bar?

[oldschoolvolvo]

Righto...I see what you are trying to do now

How much do you need to trim off of the bracket?

[DavePolyakov]

Everything sticking out would have to go. Here's an overlap picture.

Originally Posted by oldschoolvolvo

Righto...I see what you are trying to do now

How much do you need to trim off of the bracket?

[DavePolyakov]

I also thought about running screws into the rubber. Do you have experience with this, would it hold? I think if I trimmed the metal casing as is it would be pretty thin, I'm just hesitant to cut into it because it was $55 and I won't be able to return it. If I did this I would probably only have to lower the plate a few mm. Is it possible to hammer out the tunnel?

Originally Posted by VB242

What about either running some screws directly in to the rubber part or making your own strap out of a thin piece of flat bar?

[VB242]

Originally Posted by DavePolyakov

I also thought about running screws into the rubber. Do you have experience with this, would it hold? I think if I trimmed the metal casing as is it would be pretty thin, I'm just hesitant to cut into it because it was $55 and I won't be able to return it. If I did this I would probably only have to lower the plate a few mm. Is it possible to hammer out the tunnel?

You are the pioneer sir, we're waiting to see what you come up with. I don't think it weaken it too much at stock power levels if you cut down the metal part. I'm pretty sure that part fits an F150 which would get a lot more torque put though it.

[gsellstr]

I'm not sure your skill level, but...what about taking some 1/8"x2" flat stock, bend it to match the curve of the bearing, and use that as a retainer? That would allow you to secure it still. Or, just for starters, pull the rubber from the retainer on the spicer, set it on top of the plate, see if that will fit in the tunnel without the metal for starters. That should also give you an idea what you're looking at for working room.

[DavePolyakov]

This is as far as I got tonight. It's still not clearing the tunnel, the retainer is so wide that the bolts are interfering on the frame, even though I drilled new holes as close together as possible. I had to do a lot of hammering in the tunnel and will do more tomorrow. It's contacting in the tunnel as well as the bolts on the frame. I don't know if I can grind it down anymore. It is a very tight fit in the 740 tunnel. The retainer clamps down on the rubber housing securing everything, so if I made my own retainer I would need to make sure the bolt holes are slightly below the rubber if that makes sense. Otherwise, it will move around excessively. I will try to make my own retainer if I can't get the stock one to fit somehow.

[VB242]

What about something like this on top with the nuts on the bottom?
McMaster-Carr Page:
https://www.mcmaster.com/Screws/hex-drive-rounded-head-screws

[DavePolyakov]

I think rounded head screws will help, but there will still be a gap because the bracket itself will contact the frame even if the bolts weren't present. Theoretically, I could tighten the plate and it would squeeze the bracket to the frame, but I doubt this would actually hold up under any driving. I'll try the rounded head screws and then slightly drop the plate and it will fit. Hopefully, it isn't dropped too much where it makes it difficult to achieve proper driveline angles, that's my main concern.

Originally Posted by VB242

What about something like this on top with the nuts on the bottom?
McMaster-Carr Page:
https://www.mcmaster.com/Screws/hex-drive-rounded-head-screws

[gsellstr]

If you were to DIY the frame around it, fold the tabs under the bearing carrier, and trim just a touch of the rubber on the corners, that would alleviate the bolt issue entirely. It still wouldn't help with tunnel clearance though. Another thought...if you trimmed the rubber up and over the top, just the outer layer to the first set of reliefs, that would allow for more tunnel clearance, you'd still maintain one set of reliefs, then DIY the metal frame like I mentioned, that just might do it.

Something else I just thought about. There's 2 different carrier plates. The 960's had a rubber isolated one, that dropped the plate down from the frame about 1/4", and used rubber mounts, kinda like the rubber inserts on the fuel pump carrier. I wonder if that would give you enough clearance for all of it?

[DavePolyakov]

I think I will bend the stock frame around the rubber and trim the rubber. If I mutilate the stock frame too much then I will have to make my own. About the 960 carrier plate, If I just dropped the stock 740 with washers would have the same effect?

Originally Posted by gsellstr

If you were to DIY the frame around it, fold the tabs under the bearing carrier, and trim just a touch of the rubber on the corners, that would alleviate the bolt issue entirely. It still wouldn't help with tunnel clearance though. Another thought...if you trimmed the rubber up and over the top, just the outer layer to the first set of reliefs, that would allow for more tunnel clearance, you'd still maintain one set of reliefs, then DIY the metal frame like I mentioned, that just might do it.

Something else I just thought about. There's 2 different carrier plates. The 960's had a rubber isolated one, that dropped the plate down from the frame about 1/4", and used rubber mounts, kinda like the rubber inserts on the fuel pump carrier. I wonder if that would give you enough clearance for all of it?

[gsellstr]

Yeah, it should. Maybe 1/4". Only difference is the isolation damping on the 960 plate.

[VB242]

These are a little thick at 5/8" but would give you enough room
McMaster-Carr Page:
https://www.mcmaster.com/Vibration-Damping-Sandwich-Mounts/metric-general-purpose-vibration-damping-sandwich-mounts-with-studs/thread-size~m10/

[DavePolyakov]

Got it to fit. My washers stacked to 11/32 inches or ~9mm. In the picture, it looks like there is a little more height available but I can assure you there is not. I'm pretty sure it's slightly contacting in places or has less than 2mm clearance. You can still see there's a little space before the bolts would have contacted the frame. The retainer is just a little too big for the tunnel. I did some more hammering but kind of had enough, don't think I could get much further anyways, and I grinded the retainer as far down as possible. Hoping it doesn't make any noise contacting in the tunnel during driving.