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#1 |
Salaminizer
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Reading pa
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![]() Been looking for low cost projects till my new job kicks in, and wanted to get my Z17 calipers cleaned up better. They have years of accumulated build up. I have used a Dremel with SS wire brushes, razor blades, acetone, brake cleaner, I can't get them clean.
Anyone have any other tricks? ![]() ![]()
__________________
Feedback thread https://forums.tbforums.com/showthread.php?t=144924 1978 242, 5.3 L33 1979 242, MS, R brakes 2006 V50 T5 AWD @ 17 PSI |
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#2 |
Board Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
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![]() Are you going to replace the rubber seals? Brake cleaner and acetone isn't good for them. If not protect them with tape or something and maybe try some muriatic acid with a scothbrite pad. If you going to paint them anyway then maybe just scuff them with some sandpaper and apply a good primer first , then paint.
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#3 |
Ronald Culberbone III
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Portland, OR
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![]() Foaming wheel cleaner or a heated solvent tank/bath.
__________________
Cult Person. Pissing in your Kool-Aid. |
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#4 |
Bored member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Davis, CA
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#5 |
Ronald Culberbone III
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Portland, OR
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![]() ^Purple drank cleaner works a whole lot better when mixed with warm/hot water.
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#6 | |
Board Member
Join Date: May 2019
Location: South Florida
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#7 |
Salaminizer
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Reading pa
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![]() I'm not getting acetone on the rubber, and I have full rebuild kits in case I make a mistake. Plus it really isn't strong enough apparently. I guess I'll get some muriatic acid.
I've never seen Super Clean, I would try it if I find it. |
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#8 |
Board Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
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![]() ^ wear good gloves.
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#9 |
Salaminizer
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Reading pa
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![]() Ya, gotcha. Muriatic acid is one step from hydrochloric acid. If I can even find some gloves. Even at the shop we are having problems buying gloves right now.
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#10 |
K-jet For Life
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: - Stock PSI Or Bust -
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![]() Muriatic acid is HCL pal.
I wouldn't put acid on it unless it could be broken down into individual pieces for accurate cleaning. No mask off the interior surfaces, plug the ports, & bead blast love? |
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#11 |
Salaminizer
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Reading pa
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![]() Its low grade HCL, and ya I don't really want to use that. I will have to change the media in the blast cabinet to remove the mess, probably have to use actual sand which I hate to do on aluminum.
Changing the media sucks, it is really hard to get all the sand out when you want to go back to glass bead. It's all for the clean look anyway, and no one really cares so maybe I will just rock what I have. |
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#12 |
K-jet For Life
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: - Stock PSI Or Bust -
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![]() Looks like a paintable surface to me, a little squirt of etch primer to start and see what you get?
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#13 |
board member
Join Date: Dec 2015
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![]() Saw this video with not much prep info but interesting to watch
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__________________
Desperate need of elf assistant for interior work - Cash/Beer option $ Feedback thread: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=323689 |
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#14 |
Board Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Eldorado Springs Mo.
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![]() Oven cleaner.
__________________
90 Volvo 240-my current setup. B230ft rebuilt -MS-Turbo-E85 1985 240 Work in progress. sons car- 93 240-15g turbo-chipped-95,000 miles. Slick car Leave feedback- http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=355413 |
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#15 |
Board Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Granville, MA
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![]() I haven't used that stuff in a long time but it used to be really hot, I wonder if it's been watered down at all? It used to bleach dirt bike plastics and etch aluminum if you weren't really careful with it.
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#16 | |
Ronald Culberbone III
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Portland, OR
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![]() Quote:
I definitely think they've toned it down in the last few years. I can use it without by skin peeling off a few hours later with the new chemistry. |
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