Sir Psycho
holstrich 2.0
- Joined
- Sep 27, 2008
- Location
- Austin TX
Did your friend drill holes at either end of the crack in the manifold to relieve stress?
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Kevin's 1990 745ti DD
- Thread starter kevbot
- Start date
Pretty positive he did. He told me he's done lots of cast iron before and he was going to grind (maybe he said drill, I can't remember) a part of it down and he would let me know ahead of time if it wasn't going to work. When I picked it up he said everything worked fine, and the welds are about twice as long as each crack. Hoping it holds up fine.
496truck
New member
- Joined
- Jan 16, 2012
- Location
- Carver, Ma
How does your car run with the BOV (assuming your MAF is preturbo)? I've heard a lot of people say they cause stalling issues.
It's only stalled on me one time, and that was from one stop sign to the next and I revved it out in first to about 5k and snapped the throttle closed. Sounded amazing of course but as I came to a stop it stumbled and stalled. Other instances where I've done the same thing from one stop sign to another, through parking lots, etc, it's never stalled. Probably only did that one time because I revved so high. I'm planning on moving the AMM post IC just to give it a try and see how it runs like that. I have a few of them kicking around so it wouldn't be an issue.
Sir Psycho
holstrich 2.0
- Joined
- Sep 27, 2008
- Location
- Austin TX
Beware that the AMM will eventually leak post IC without some resealing.
Sir Psycho
holstrich 2.0
- Joined
- Sep 27, 2008
- Location
- Austin TX
Not sure, I haven't taken mine apart to see where it leaks internally. From the outside I can see it leak around the part number plate where there is a silicone looking seal around the perimeter.
Dauntless
The Brapmaster™
- Joined
- Jun 13, 2004
- Location
- NSW, Australia
Is the front wheel dented?
Yeah, has a small dent in it, the angle makes it look worse than it is. Doesn't leak at all, it's pretty shallow and isn't into the bead section at all. It's been thrashed through numerous drift runs on my buddy's e46, with no issues. I'll probably try to bend it back out some myself at some point. For $100 with tires, it was hard to pass up on em.
+Kardboard+
Chinese guy/Swedish rides
- Joined
- Aug 15, 2008
- Location
- Vancouver, Canada
Time to paint them gooooolllld.
miguel.760ti
New member
- Joined
- Nov 6, 2008
- Location
- Mesa, AZ
This thread delivers more than the UPS man
+Kardboard+
Chinese guy/Swedish rides
- Joined
- Aug 15, 2008
- Location
- Vancouver, Canada
Thank you for obliging. 
VQ
Not such a PRVert Anymore
- Joined
- Oct 2, 2005
- Location
- Melbourne, Australia
I cut the tabs off both ends and welded on plates with new holes in them, means it bolts straight into the car and can be reversed easily.
Liking what's been done here. Whats the best drag time you've had now?
Thanks everyone 
I love these wheels.
Good to know, thanks.
And I unfortunately haven't been back yet since my last trip when I was having traction issues. Guess I haven't really realized how long it's been now that you asked me
I really need to make time to head back and get a few more runs in.
I love these wheels.Good to know, thanks.
And I unfortunately haven't been back yet since my last trip when I was having traction issues. Guess I haven't really realized how long it's been now that you asked me
I really need to make time to head back and get a few more runs in.Long, delayed update time part 1.
Let's see. I finally got around to doing the camber mod:
I was happy with the results I saw from it, especially since I was getting some uneven wear on the outside of my front tires.
Next up, I installed an engine start button. My ignition cylinder had been occasionally sticking in the start position, which didn't sound very pleasant, even for a second. I had contemplated just replacing it, but I didn't want to have one key to start the car and one to unlock the doors. So I just wired in a momentary toggle button to the starter, and it works fantastic. I made the vinyl decal at work.
I also ended up getting a matching set of tires from my local used tire shop. All four 195/55/16s with decent tread mounted and balanced for $80.
Aside from that, I had been tracking down a steering wheel shake for some time. I tried swapping front wheels to the rear, no dice. Replaced ball joints, and replaced the strut rod bushings and swaybar endlinks with poly bushings, still no change. Finally tried inner and outer tie rods, and that helped with it. There's only a minor wobble around 55mph, but it's nowhere near as bad as before. Plus the steering response is phenomenally better. I ended up single around this time, so I was dealing with that and moving out out of the apartment, so car stuff kind of got put on the back burner. But I did find time to do those on Valentine's Day this year:
Next up I gave the wagon a fresh coat of paint, and then took it to a couple shows. First up was Fixxfest in Tampa:
Then came Eurojam in Orlando:
Ever since day one of owning this wagon, it hasn't had a headliner and also hasn't had any interior lighting. I was given some thin LED strips quite some time ago, but never got around to installing them. I was finally motivated enough the other day and I wired them into the existing wires for the dome light, and I'm happy with the result. They operate off of the doors opening or closing, and are bright and they illuminate the whole car.
Let's see. I finally got around to doing the camber mod:
I was happy with the results I saw from it, especially since I was getting some uneven wear on the outside of my front tires.
Next up, I installed an engine start button. My ignition cylinder had been occasionally sticking in the start position, which didn't sound very pleasant, even for a second. I had contemplated just replacing it, but I didn't want to have one key to start the car and one to unlock the doors. So I just wired in a momentary toggle button to the starter, and it works fantastic. I made the vinyl decal at work.
I also ended up getting a matching set of tires from my local used tire shop. All four 195/55/16s with decent tread mounted and balanced for $80.
Aside from that, I had been tracking down a steering wheel shake for some time. I tried swapping front wheels to the rear, no dice. Replaced ball joints, and replaced the strut rod bushings and swaybar endlinks with poly bushings, still no change. Finally tried inner and outer tie rods, and that helped with it. There's only a minor wobble around 55mph, but it's nowhere near as bad as before. Plus the steering response is phenomenally better. I ended up single around this time, so I was dealing with that and moving out out of the apartment, so car stuff kind of got put on the back burner. But I did find time to do those on Valentine's Day this year:
Next up I gave the wagon a fresh coat of paint, and then took it to a couple shows. First up was Fixxfest in Tampa:
Then came Eurojam in Orlando:
Ever since day one of owning this wagon, it hasn't had a headliner and also hasn't had any interior lighting. I was given some thin LED strips quite some time ago, but never got around to installing them. I was finally motivated enough the other day and I wired them into the existing wires for the dome light, and I'm happy with the result. They operate off of the doors opening or closing, and are bright and they illuminate the whole car.
Long update part 2
I'll throw out an interior pic since I haven't posted one in a bit:
Also, I got the greddy style BOV dialed in much more, but it was still occasionally opening at idle or on decel, or other times when it wasn't supposed to. So I picked up a knockoff SSQV to give it a shot, and it works significantly better than the greddy. It vents when it's supposed to, and it doesn't leak or open under other conditions.
I tried venting my catch can to the atmosphere, because I was getting quite a bit of oil in my intercooler piping. I only had it VTA for two days before switching it back, because the smell was unbearable. I added some baffling to my catch can and stuffed some steel wool in the bottom too.
A couple weekends ago I wanted to add some port holes to my front bumper. I sawzall'd out some of the metal bumper and then used a 3" hole saw on the plastic cover. It allows some extra airflow into the trans cooler and bottom of the radiator, and I may end up relocating my oil cooler to this location as well.
Second to last update, I scraped some money together and got a proper exhaust put on the wagon. 3" downpipe down to 2.5" exhaust over the axle to one straight thru magnaflow muffler, single inlet dual outlet. Sounds great, and it kind of eliminates and smooths out some of the tractor noise. No more side pipe nonsense that scrapes over everything.
Now to the FINAL recent update. Ordered some 2" wheel adapters to replace the adapters I was using up until now. I had originally picked up some 25mm adapters, but the style 5 wheels didn't have reliefs in the back of them and I didn't want to trim my studs down. So I temporarily ordered some 7mm spacers and put them underneath the adapters. Not the most conventional route, but it was just temporary to make sure I liked the wheels. I wanted a little more poke this time around, so I went for some 2" adapters instead of the 32mm I was using before. This gives them a final offset of -27.
No rubbing whatsoever, and I'm very happy with how they look. Next tires I get I'll probably go for either some 195/45/16 or 205/45/16.
Only other thing worth mentioning is while I was working on the front bumper recently, I made the bumper cover into a quick release. I cut some of the tabs off and made it to where it just slides into the supports on the sides. Then I drilled a hole into the underside of the fender and the bumper cover itself, and just ran a ziptie through them both. It holds it nice and tight, and with two snips it comes right off. Definitely comes in handy for driving the car up on ramps or doing any work on or under the front end.
And one final, recent picture to finish up this update:
I'll throw out an interior pic since I haven't posted one in a bit:
Also, I got the greddy style BOV dialed in much more, but it was still occasionally opening at idle or on decel, or other times when it wasn't supposed to. So I picked up a knockoff SSQV to give it a shot, and it works significantly better than the greddy. It vents when it's supposed to, and it doesn't leak or open under other conditions.
I tried venting my catch can to the atmosphere, because I was getting quite a bit of oil in my intercooler piping. I only had it VTA for two days before switching it back, because the smell was unbearable. I added some baffling to my catch can and stuffed some steel wool in the bottom too.
A couple weekends ago I wanted to add some port holes to my front bumper. I sawzall'd out some of the metal bumper and then used a 3" hole saw on the plastic cover. It allows some extra airflow into the trans cooler and bottom of the radiator, and I may end up relocating my oil cooler to this location as well.
Second to last update, I scraped some money together and got a proper exhaust put on the wagon. 3" downpipe down to 2.5" exhaust over the axle to one straight thru magnaflow muffler, single inlet dual outlet. Sounds great, and it kind of eliminates and smooths out some of the tractor noise. No more side pipe nonsense that scrapes over everything.
Now to the FINAL recent update. Ordered some 2" wheel adapters to replace the adapters I was using up until now. I had originally picked up some 25mm adapters, but the style 5 wheels didn't have reliefs in the back of them and I didn't want to trim my studs down. So I temporarily ordered some 7mm spacers and put them underneath the adapters. Not the most conventional route, but it was just temporary to make sure I liked the wheels. I wanted a little more poke this time around, so I went for some 2" adapters instead of the 32mm I was using before. This gives them a final offset of -27.
No rubbing whatsoever, and I'm very happy with how they look. Next tires I get I'll probably go for either some 195/45/16 or 205/45/16.
Only other thing worth mentioning is while I was working on the front bumper recently, I made the bumper cover into a quick release. I cut some of the tabs off and made it to where it just slides into the supports on the sides. Then I drilled a hole into the underside of the fender and the bumper cover itself, and just ran a ziptie through them both. It holds it nice and tight, and with two snips it comes right off. Definitely comes in handy for driving the car up on ramps or doing any work on or under the front end.
And one final, recent picture to finish up this update: