Another CA Failed Smog Test Thread

Well the biannual air nazi test strikes again! 1987 Volvo 244, failed the "Fuel Evaporative Controls Function" and the NO (PPM) for 15 mph, but it passed fine on the 25 mph test.

The guy at the shop said I need a new cat and he wasn't sure what was wrong with the fuel evap. I did some searching and I checked the vent lines going to the charcoal canister and they visually look alright. I checked the gas cap and the seal looks in decent shape as well. Any ideas?

Post a picture of your report and the experts here may be able to help with the NO.

For the evap controls, the only test they do here (Colorado) is to connect the gas cap to a tester and make sure vac/pressure/seal are OK. I doubt that CA could do much else on a '87 (the standardized OBD-II diagnostic port started in '96).

Edit: I stand corrected. CA actually clamps off an evap line and pressurizes the tank with nitrogen:
https://www.smogtips.com/forum-evap-tests.cfm

The EVAP test ensures that there are no leaks in the hose between the Gas Tank and Charcoal Canister... it that simple. The technician must clamp the end of the hose leading to the canister and pressurize the gas tank with Nitrogen via the EVAP test tool. The EVAP test tool will then calculate the drop in pressure due to any leaks. Technically there should be very little drop in pressure once the gas tank is pressurized. Should there be a pressure loss the machine will fail the EVAP portion of the smog test.

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Edited first post with picture.

I use a smoke machine to look for leaks. They’re expensive, but I use it daily.
There’s gotta be a cheap Chinese knock off available on line.

Check the hose at the roll over valve.

You like smog clouds!??

Put a fresh kitty on it and you will pass.

Evap- I use a smoke/flow machine. He also could of done the test wrong. Watch if he pinched off the evap hoses. If they aren't pinched off with pliers it would fail.

I use the smoke machine to find leaks. I also use the nitrogen to pressurize the evap system and watch the flow guage to see if there is flow after the system is fully pressurized =leak.

-ASE Master Tech and ASE Advanced Level Specialist.

Make sure it's a approved for your car the cat...Or the Nazis will boot you again they check part numbers there

Make sure it's a CA approved converter that costs $100-150 more. You guys are so your own country you get your own catalytic converter tax to help fix that horrible crap in the picture. I hope it works. Personally, the air quality is better around this area since they started using fuel injection with 3 way converters on cars.

Redwood Chair said:

Check the hose at the roll over valve.

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I took the roll over valve off and checked the hoses going into it. The valve is perfect and all the hoses were good.

I blew some air into one of the hoses and traced a leak at the fuel cap. Turns out the bottom of the filler neck was bent (I'll have to ask my grandma about that one ). after some bending and trying to get the neck round again, my buddy and I were finally able to get it to seal up. Now I just have to get a new cat and see how the retest goes. Thanks for the advice fellas.

If the fuel cap is leaking. There is a gasket for the cap. It's a large oring that you can get separately from Volvo.

dl242gt said:

If the fuel cap is leaking. There is a gasket for the cap. It's a large oring that you can get separately from Volvo.

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Go to the stealership twice and wait a week for a $1.40 part they don't want to deal with?



We generally run across the street to Kragens and buy a $6 cap as there's a seperate test apparatus for that and then retest on the spot.

Since most of my customers don't opt for the OE Volvo catalytic converter, an approved by California aftermarket cat is the usual route. Some are weld in replacements, some are bolt in.

Prior to about 4 years ago, I was using my favorite exhaust shop and using their supplier of approved aftermarket weld in cats and in almost every case, the car would pass the smog test immediately after the new cat was installed, but would fail 2 years later requiring a new cat to pass smog. The cats were warrantied for 5 years, but the warranty procedure required the removal of the cat to be sent in and in the meantime another cat was welded in at full charge of course. And wouldn't you know it, every single warranty was rejected claiming the engine condition caused the failure which I knew was BS.

So I tried a different exhaust shop that allowed me to supply a weld in cat as long as it was CA approved.

I found MagnaFlow CA approved cats were reasonably priced and seemed larger and appeared to made better and I am happy to report that so far, all of the MagnaFlow cats have made it past their 2nd inspection with flying colors.

I buy MagnaFlow cats from Oreillys as they always seem to have them in stock.

FYI, I just noticed that MagnaFlow is now selling bolt in cats as well as weld in cats.

I've been using the magnaflow direct fit cats without issue for many years. I buy mine from Summit racing since no one in this area can get me one reasonably priced. Of course I use the 49 state version, though.

Actually it wasn't the cap. It was the filler neck that the cap screws onto which was bent on the bottom. It was hard to tell at first but it was more of a oval shape. After some trial and error I was able to get it round again and sure enough that fixed the leak.

The cat has been changed before with a weld in one so it looks like I'll have to take it to a exhaust shop. I'll check out that Magnaflow cat, thanks guys.

yeah the filler neck hole gets oval from all the gas station guys pressing down on the fuel pipe over the yeas. Mine is oval and I had to bend it round again, too. Then new oring on the cap made it much better.

there is no way that most old cars would pass inspections if we had them in Georgia, for cars before 1995. what is the cut off year in California just curious

1975 and older gas cars are smog exempt. Diesel 1997 and older are exempt.

Cars before 2001 still have to do dyno testing with the tailpipe probe.

Newer than 2001 it's just a plug in to the OBD port to check readiness monitors and for codes.

Most/many smog shops dont even have the dyno rollers anymore for the older cars.

The stupid part is that half of my county you don't need a smog check. I'm lucky enough to live in the part that does require one

Haystack said:

The stupid part is that half of my county you don't need a smog check. I'm lucky enough to live in the part that does require one

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On the other hand if you didn't have to get it running right every other year it'd crawl in a hole and die after a few years of running chitty.