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Saving A 245 Turbo, or How Not To Do This Sort of Thing

The rear cam seal is pretty straightforward, just keep it flush with the back of the head and the #4 cam cap as you snug the bolts on the cam cap.

B21/B23 don't use a rear cam seal. The valve cover is flat in the back and they use a half moon shaped plug.

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I just did the cam seals on my brothers 244 this last weekend because the front cam seal was leaking. It turns out the front cam seal on his car wore a groove in the cam, so when I replaced it with a new one it still leaked because at the seal point the cam OD wasn't to spec with the ring seal ID. :( Fortunately, someone mentioned to me you don't have to seat the front cam seal all the way, and you can translate it a mm or 2 forward so it isn't riding in the groove, but honestly I'd just get a new cam at that point.

Just my $0.02

Why change the cam when you can get a repair sleeve for under $20.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tmk-kwk99139
 
B21/B23 don't use a rear cam seal. The valve cover is flat in the back and they use a half moon shaped plug.

My bad, I keep forgetting the age of OP's car! I should have known that....

Why change the cam when you can get a repair sleeve for under $20.

How does that sleeve fix a groove worn on the cam at the location of the front cam seal?
 
It slips over the damaged surface and provides a new surface for the seal to ride on. Repair sleeves are available for virtually every seal surface.

Here's a better pic of the repair sleeve and installation tool.

4
 
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Hey, don't worry about it! It's a good learning experience for me too plus my fuel accumulator won't get here for another day.

Debating if I should go with the chrome-strip belt line trim as in the later cars, plastidip it black, or just make my own trim from Home Depot material.
 
Just wondering, how are these plugs supposed to come apart? Does the piece in the red box come out of the yellow & black boot?

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The insulation is looking pretty gross so I might just splice in some extra wire and add some crimp sleeves. I also gashed my thumb open, which wasn't very fun...
 
Great news! I managed to wedge the plugs out (yup was the ones in the red box) with varying success. The + connector came out without a fight, but the - connector separated so I had to wedge some needle nose pliers in and break the connection. It's still serviceable, but I might come up with a replacement.

Or I'll just wait until the main pump kicks the bucket and fabricate something proper. Remember that I still need to get it smogged, so I'm aiming to get the car running well first, then think about the future.

The tray has been removed and the accumulator replaced. For those keeping score at home, here's what it takes to get it out of the tray:

1x 10mm (removes the hex-head clamp screw)
1x 3/4 wrench (fits on the banjo-bolt fitting)
1x 17mm wrench (fits on the fixed hex fitting on the accumulator inlet)

Also, 1x 12mm & 1x 14mm to break off the fitting at the plastic fuel line from the outlet.


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My neighbors aren't the sort to fuss over things like "property values" (another neighbor has a dune buggy) so nobody seems to mind the ratty 245 sitting with its rear end off the ground! :lol:
 
Here's what you need to fix your problem.
1 part # 3523813 repair wire and 1 part # 1307035 insulator (#1 in the pic). I should have both in stock.

Connector.jpg


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Either that or buy the NOS harness I have.

240FuelPumpHarness.jpg
 
It looks like the connector and even the wire is salvageable, it just popped loose. Still, I want to add some shrink wrap to help me (or the next owner) figure out which cable's which and maybe add another inch-or-so of wire.

What wire gauge is recommended?
 
How's it going? Use wire the same gauge or larger.

It's been well, I stepped away to go on vacation for a bit. I ended up ordering the Volvo wire since I didn't need much of it.

Is there a trick to getting the fuel pump harness out? I noticed in the picture from Hiperfauto that it's a one piece gasket. Since this is so old, it's decaying (surprise! :-D) and I wonder if I can just snake it out through the top.

see next post for resolution

A part of me is tempted to just put whole assembly back and just butt splice the harness in place once the connections are plugged & wrap with tape.
 
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Great success! I was able to pinch the gasket such that I could remove it. Pinch & slip out through the hole.


BDfNGhM.jpg



After trying to force the connector through the hole, I tried a different tactic: why not feed it the other way through? It worked! The harness, as far as I can tell should be removed from the bottom - you feed the ring terminal & harness connector down through the hole instead of forcing the bullet connectors up through.

I'm going to splice in some new wire - join wires, solder, and shrink using the appropriate color. Been a couple years since I last picked up a soldering iron so gonna tackle a simple job to test out my skills & the new heat gun I bought ($8.99 final clearance @ Harbor Freight).
 
Now that the wiring connector was rebuilt with some...serviceable soldering, I turned my attention to putting it back. All the lines came back together except for the line from the accumulator to the main. Now that was a good 1/4" short. Now, I know that this is the right part: confirmed it on multiple sites and I even have the old one in my shed somewhere.

Took a look at the pump and noticed there was an inch or so space in either direction not caked in (as much) dirt, suggesting that it wiggled around enough to avoid getting dirty. Sure enough, the Phillips-head machine screw on the clamp was halfway out the hole and missing its nut! I've coated the 10mm bolts on the tray with some penetrating oil while I go pick up some misc hardware. It means I'll have to do another test fitting but I want to do this right the first time.

As for the fuel pump harness: I plan to fabricate a new one from scratch once this old pump kicks it. I'm also looking into replacement grommet down the line from McMaster-Carr. Hopefully this will help us keep these cars running for longer. :D
 
Now that the wiring connector was rebuilt with some...serviceable soldering, I turned my attention to putting it back. All the lines came back together except for the line from the accumulator to the main. Now that was a good 1/4" short. Now, I know that this is the right part: confirmed it on multiple sites and I even have the old one in my shed somewhere.

Took a look at the pump and noticed there was an inch or so space in either direction not caked in (as much) dirt, suggesting that it wiggled around enough to avoid getting dirty. Sure enough, the Phillips-head machine screw on the clamp was halfway out the hole and missing its nut! I've coated the 10mm bolts on the tray with some penetrating oil while I go pick up some misc hardware. It means I'll have to do another test fitting but I want to do this right the first time.

As for the fuel pump harness: I plan to fabricate a new one from scratch once this old pump kicks it. I'm also looking into replacement grommet down the line from McMaster-Carr. Hopefully this will help us keep these cars running for longer. :D

I get where you?re at. Here is my 38 year old fuel pump harness:
SF4JADRl.jpg


cool car dude keep it moving👌🏻
 
Came back to it only to find a flat battery. Engine cranks, it struggles to fire, and it dies. 10 years was a good run.
 
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Simple thing to check: Is the breather hose in place on the intake elbow that goes between the fuel distributor boot and the coupler on the compressor side of the turbo? If not, insert it into the hole and see if the car runs.

If that's ok, then I'd look at timing, fuel, etc.

-J
 
Came back to it only to find a flat battery. Engine cranks, it struggles to fire, and it dies. 10 years was a good run.

Don't give up, there is a perfectly logical reason for what is going on. Get that battery charged, can just idle another a car next to it with jumper cables for a bit.

Check for the magic 3 elements, air fuel and spark.

Assuming your in-tank and inline pump are good and have adequate voltage, and fuel filter new/flowing, we can work our way toward troubleshooting injectors or spark related issues. Given the age of your vehicle it is prone to wiring harness failure, so we just gotta find where it's shorting if that's the case.

It's a puzzle. Put 12v where it needs to be and things should be ok! ;) May need to build some jumper wires to test against the internal loom, but you get the point.
 
Finally had some time to work on the car!

I decided to take care of the rear cam seal and had some trouble weaving the valve cover around a hose over it. The Green Book references a hose that could be pulled out from the intake. Is the connection marked in red where I can safely pull the hose from?

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I'm also taking this time to clean off some of the acorn nuts and patch the spark plug wire holder back together with some Gorilla Glue. Can't believe nobody bothered to fix it, but better late than never!
 
Another question: Can I simply pull the half moon plug out with some pliers? Doesn’t look like it’s connected to any shafts.

EDIT: didn’t need no stinking pliers after all! Used my hands to pull it out. Boy, that thing was as hard as a rock!
 
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Postmortem:

All the acorn nuts were filled with old oil and the paper gasket disintegrated into my hand. I guess that means it's broken?

Everything sent back together pretty nicely. The cylinder head looked pretty gross despite scraping (and me leaving a small fingernail deep gouge!) on it, but hopefully a little extra dab of black RTV keeps everything playing nicely.

The wind carried away one of my steel brackets (wasn't doing much anyway) so I just zip-tied that sensor (forgot which one) tight to a cable. Was more secure anyway.

Car's all buttoned up. Figured I'll clean up the battery terminals. They look kind of disgusting.
 
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