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#1 |
Board Member
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Boston MA
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![]() I have an m47 sitting under my desk at work, waiting for me to have all the parts, time and nerve to start the swap from an aw71 in my 92 wagon.
As long as the thing is sitting around, not under a car, are there any 'best practices' i should follow to prep the tranny to go back into service? I have no reason to think there are any issues with the trans, BTW, just trying to give this 5 speed the best shot at a happy new life. Best estimate is that the trans has around 150k miles on it. thanks |
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#2 | |
Board Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Woodinville, WA
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![]() Quote:
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#3 |
Board Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
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![]() i just went through this a little bit ago. pull the top plate and the lockout adjustment and have a look at the internals. look for any chips on the teeth and play in the shafts.
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#4 |
Board Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Beverly, 01915
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![]() If you're really ambitious I'd pull the bellhousing off and take off the tailshaft and 5th gear pieces until you get to the bearing preload shims and perform the measuring procedure for them, then shim to spec. You'd be surprised how far off they might be, and I can't help but wonder if this contributes to the 3rd gear problems these gearboxes are known for. The M47 II greenbook has the info you'd need. A couple of the tools are somewhat specific but I think it's worth it, especially if you're going to be aggressive with it.
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#5 |
educator monkey
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: south jersey
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![]() IMHO The best thing to do would be to take off the bell housing and throw the trans in the garbage and the pick up a ford v8 t5 and adapter plate. You'd have a proper transmission with decent gear ratios that will be a nice foundation to any power upgrades you have in mind for the future.
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#6 |
Porkchop Sandwiches
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Athens, GA
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#7 |
50 shades of beige
![]() Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Rockville, MD
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![]() M47s are a lot quieter than the T5 trans are. For a daily thats not pushing big power the t5 isn't always the best answer.
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#8 |
Sh*t pot stirrer
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Keizer, OR
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![]() I would go through it with a fine tooth comb, like as mentioned above: Check preload, inspect bearings, double check fasteners for proper torque, check for leaks, then change the gear lube. Finally, once you're ready with all the needed parts, yard that old 71 out and install the 47.
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-Stephen -My car: White 1991 244, 308k miles. B230F LH2.4, AW70, R134a retro. Thrush glasspack, anthracite refinished Coronas -Wife's car: White 1990 244DL, T cam, 190k miles.B230F LH2.4, AW70 w/aux cooler, Duracool AC, purple refinished Virgos, tow hitch, ipd wagon overload springs. -PSM 2002 Subaru WRX wagon: 120k miles, Perrin TBE, Perrin turbo inlet, intake, and Y-pipe, GrimmSpeed cross pipe. Rebuilding EJ207 shortblock to swap in this summer. |
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#9 |
Board Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Woodinville, WA
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![]() For a daily driver I'd rather have a nice M47 than a T5. I like to keep things all original whenever possible, or at least all-Volvo. Makes it easier down the road when I'm trying to figure out what clutch kit or mount or whatever I need and everything fits nicely.
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#10 |
Board Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
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![]() i swapped in a turbo clutch in my car tonight to replace the na clutch. i replaced the input and output/shift shaft seals. Darn output shaft seal leaks. i used corteco seals except on the output shaft seal and it was a national with a metal outer ring unlike the factory polymer coated seal. used OE!
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#11 |
Board Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Woodinville, WA
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![]() I generally leave seals alone unless they show signs of leaking already. More than once I've replaced an old seal that was fine only to have the new one leak.
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