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Old 07-15-2017, 04:26 PM   #1
Chuck W
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Default No start issue after re-installing WBO2

OK, so these things are probably NOT connected, but that is really all I have done to the car, and now it won't start.

It's the B21FT with MS1V3.0 w/ Extra. LH2.2 dist. Ford "e"coil (Like what you would find in an 80's 2.3T Ford). Has been running that way for 2-3 years now.

Anyway, the car had been running and being tuned with my 14point7 SLC Free B. That took a dump a couple months ago, so to keep the car on the road, I swapped back in the NBO2 and changed that setting in TS.

Car has been running fine, and I think I last drove it about a week ago.

I picked up a 14point7 Spartan WBO2, and get it installed today. Changed/disturbed no wiring on the current set-up, other than to unplug the O2 signal wire.

I changed the setting in TS back to the WBO2 and went to start the car. Cranks but no tach signal in TS nor the tach (which is a factory tach, fed from the coil).

The resistances in the coil windings are inconclusive (1.7 on the primary and 8K on the secondary). So it MAY be the coil. (That type can fail suddenly vs the oil canister type)

Doing another check to see if the dist is working, I put the key in RUN and rotate the dist back and forth by hand, and I *should* hear the injectors at least click when the hall sensor is triggered. Nothing there either.

So, did the coil fail or the Hall effect in the dist just fail, while the car was sitting?
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Old 07-15-2017, 04:47 PM   #2
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Make sure the hall sensor is getting power. If it is, make sure the hall sensor output moves between 5v and ground when rotated.
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Old 07-15-2017, 04:53 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by gross polluter View Post
Make sure the hall sensor is getting power. If it is, make sure the hall sensor output moves between 5v and ground when rotated.
I'll have to dig back into the connector wiring on that, to see what is what. Went through all that 3 years ago, when I was getting the car together. Had a bad HE at that time (Among other things).
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Old 07-15-2017, 05:20 PM   #4
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Well, it's not the coil. I had a known good one in hand. Still nothing when I swapped that in.

I'll have to dig into the wiring for the HE tomorrow, when I get a free moment.
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Old 07-16-2017, 02:50 AM   #5
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If you have no tach signal in TS, the core issue won't be anything on the coil/ignition side as that cannot fire without tach sync in MS.

The issue is between the distributor and MS.
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Old 07-16-2017, 02:27 PM   #6
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OK, getting back to this.

There is 12V at the dist with the key in RUN. On the signal wire back to the MS, I have a constant ~5V when checking and rotating the dist. It doesn't change. (This is while probing the signal and the ground terminals at the dist connector).
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Old 07-16-2017, 02:39 PM   #7
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If the output stays at 5v and doesn't drop to 0v when a vane passes through the sensor, you have a bad hall sensor.
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Old 07-16-2017, 02:49 PM   #8
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Quote:
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If the output stays at 5v and doesn't drop to 0v when a vane passes through the sensor, you have a bad hall sensor.
Sigh.

So it just died while sitting the past week?
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Old 07-16-2017, 03:09 PM   #9
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That 5V should be checked at the signal and "-" terminals on the dist connector, correct?
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Old 07-16-2017, 03:27 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuck W View Post
That 5V should be checked at the signal and "-" terminals on the dist connector, correct?
it's an open collector output. When the vane passes through the sensor, the output will ground. You can test it a number of ways. If the output remains high and doesn't go to ground, it's not working.
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Old 07-16-2017, 03:50 PM   #11
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Well, I double-checked it. Stays at ~5V. Nothing happens when it rotates.

The test leads wound up touching (accidentally) when one of the multimeter ends came loose. When that happened, the injectors cycled. So it sounds like the MS works and I have another dead HE sensor.
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Old 07-16-2017, 03:54 PM   #12
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Correct, by shorting the leads you grounded the input to the MS just as the hall sensor would if it was operating properly.
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Old 07-16-2017, 03:58 PM   #13
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Quote:
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Correct, by shorting the leads you grounded the input to the MS just as the hall sensor would if it was operating properly.
Thanks for the assistance. Sucks that it failed just sitting in the garage, but I suppose that's better than on the road someplace.

Now to find another dist, or replace a sensor in one of the two dead dists I have.

I have noticed an occasional miss on hot days that was new in the past couple months. Would a failing HE cause that, or do they just GO when they're done?
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