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Old 05-16-2016, 02:37 PM   #1
vintagewrench
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Default 122s B18 Judson Positive Displacement Supercharger

Judson

Wanting to use only vintage speed equipment on my 122s project I bought a Judson Supercharger as can be seen above on an early P1800 in the photo. The Judson is a positive displacement axial unit that uses vanes to generate the boost pressure.

I had one years ago and thought it would be nice to get another and rebuild it. I found one that came out of a garage that used to work on racing cars that were run at the Lime Rock Park track in CT in the 1960s as these blowers were used in competition. It is all apart and the slots in rotor are not worn and the housing bore is excellent and it will be a quick and easy rebuild. The first priory is to do all the maintenance the car needs and install the supercharger and enjoy it a bit later in the summer or fall.

In the 1950's and 60's the Judson Research and Manufacturing Company of Conshohocken, Pennsylvania made these vane type superchargers for Volkswagen, MG, Triumph, Volvo and other cars including the Mercedes 190SL. The blower added a significant amount of horsepower to these cars by adding up to 7psi. of boost.

jud

How the blower works can be seen above. The intake side of the blower housing is on the left - the exhaust ports in the center - the rotor and sliding vanes on the right.

Jeff Koch at Hemming Motor News wrote about these blowers: "The Judson supercharger made all of its boost in the engine's normal rev range. Printed reports suggest power gains between 25 and 50 percent, depending on the car and equipment; Judson once ran an ad promising 32 percent more power or your money back.

Judson's supercharger had quite a bit going for it: It operated silently, it had no cams or gears to wear or cause a loss of efficiency and it didn't operate at idle or during steady cruising. It utilized four sliding vanes that are mounted at an angle to an eccentric hub. The vanes themselves were made from a laminated plastic, and are not only half as light as aluminum, but are less subject to heat expansion and properly lubed they last a very long time.

As the hub spins, centrifugal force throws the vanes out to seal against the inside of the supercharger body, pressurizing the mixture and sending it to the intake manifold. Friction issues are handled by a Marvel Mystery oiler that adds one drop of 10W motor oil every six seconds into where the fuel and air enters of the supercharger via a metering valve, which lubricates the rotor, vanes and housing. It also acts as an intake valve guide and upper cylinder lubricant, thus increasing engine life.

See a video of one running on a 122s here.
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Old 05-16-2016, 02:40 PM   #2
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Neat but you missed WANTED pal.
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Old 05-16-2016, 02:50 PM   #3
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Neat but you missed WANTED pal.
I don't think he wants one. I think he's just sharing that he has two already.

Neat to see, but obviously, other than the nostalgic appeal (which is substantial, mind you) it's not really a very practical way to make HP these days.
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Old 05-16-2016, 03:35 PM   #4
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I don't think he wants one. I think he's just sharing that he has two already.

Neat to see, but obviously, other than the nostalgic appeal (which is substantial, mind you) it's not really a very practical way to make HP these days.
Yes, how true, there are more modern ways to make power today, but in the context of things look these units work very well from past experience.

A 1968 122s produces only 115 hp at the flywheel, but with the conservative 30% improvement you end up with 145 hp which is significant. And that power is there just as soon as you press the gas pedal without any lag. You can install it in a few hours and it also does not present any around town lumpy idle or drivability issues.

To get that much hp at the flywheel the conventional way with a B18 requires a lot of hard work, time and money and I can transfer it to another Volvo. I removed wanted from my first post as I would like to also get one for another car I am getting soon.

The rebuild and installation in my vintage automotive machine shop will be covered here when I get more time late next month.
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Old 05-16-2016, 03:41 PM   #5
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You can get plenty more out of a normally aspirated pushrod Volvo motor (neatly sidestepped the B18 part there, lol) but it's all far from easy bolt on stuff.
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Old 05-16-2016, 03:55 PM   #6
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You can get plenty more out of a normally aspirated pushrod Volvo motor (neatly sidestepped the B18 part there, lol) but it's all far from easy bolt on stuff.
Yes, I have gotten probably 160-170 hp before on other Volvo engines in the past after a lot of work. My machine shop is booked solid for a year or two, so this way I don't have to tie up any machinery and I get a good improvement in power with little work - and the cool factor also goes up.
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Old 05-16-2016, 03:59 PM   #7
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Did you grab the one that was just up on ebay? Saw it, had quite the pricetag on it, but looked to be in nice shape. Always admired them, just never drawn to them.
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Old 05-16-2016, 04:03 PM   #8
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Did you grab the one that was just up on ebay? Saw it, had quite the pricetag on it, but looked to be in nice shape. Always admired them, just never drawn to them.
No, they sell for way more than they are worth on Ebay and usually need an expensive rebuilding on top of it and parts are very hard to find. This one came out of a 1960s race shop that used to work on cars that raced at Lime Rock Park in CT.

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Old 05-16-2016, 04:03 PM   #9
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I have one for an air cooled VW engine. They are very cool.
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Old 05-16-2016, 11:11 PM   #10
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Down in Texas I worked on a bunch of sewer and water tankers that used pumps like that to create vacuum or positive pressure to load and offload. They are a bit noisy, and do not like high rpms, but move an enormous volume of air.
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Old 05-17-2016, 05:17 AM   #11
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But the real question is, how much boost can a stock Judson support?
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Old 05-17-2016, 10:51 AM   #12
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But the real question is, how much boost can a stock Judson support?
Seven percent - on this application the blower is overdriven and the ratio is 1:1.160. The drive speed was purposely limited to keep from overheating the fabric-reinforced phenolic vanes that are lubricated by gasoline vapor and a Marvel Mystery automatic oiler that added one drop of 10w oil every six-seconds.

Blades made of Torlon 7130, a modern plastic could likely be spun at faster speeds due to its high strength, exceptional high heat capability, and chemical resistance.

Torlon 7130 is a 30% carbon-fiber reinforced grade of polyamide-imide plastic.

Probably another limiting factor were the head gaskets of the day that blew out much easier than what is available today.

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Old 05-17-2016, 12:19 PM   #13
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BTW, kudo's on the newbie post with some actual legit info! Not too common around here, very welcome though!
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Old 05-17-2016, 02:02 PM   #14
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BTW, kudo's on the newbie post with some actual legit info! Not too common around here, very welcome though!
Thanks I am a newbie here but in real life am a 60 yr. old geezer.

Have run my own vintage car restoration and auto machine shop for 40-years and work on and prepare mostly pre-World War One vintage racing cars for competition events and have been fortunate to learn a lot along the way and with the help of others.

Leaving for Indy next week to drive the 1915 Duesenberg seen in my avatar for three days of vintage racing before the celebration of the 100th running of the 500. It finished 2nd in the race 100-years ago.

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Old 05-18-2016, 10:22 AM   #15
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Leaving for Indy next week to drive the 1915 Duesenberg seen in my avatar for three days of vintage racing before the celebration of the 100th running of the 500. It finished 2nd in the race 100-years ago.

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Old 05-18-2016, 10:57 AM   #16
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Thanks for posting, I've always liked those superchargers. I've never had one but have done a bit of reading up on them.

Without going too far off topic, do you have any experience with the Offy-Miller motors? I have a few books about Miller and the Offy motors. Great reading, would love to have any one of those engines!
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Old 05-18-2016, 02:50 PM   #17
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I have done some work on a Miller racing car, the trans and rear end but not the engine.

Here are a couple of photos of the Duesey and engine - it is a 16-valve 300 ci four actuated by rocker arms. 3 3/4 inch bore by a 6 3/4 inch stroke. - low rpm engine but it will push the car to 130 mph.

Had to make a new cylinder block for this car and worked w/the pattern maker and the foundry to get it cast - then machined the block here in the shop.

16-Valves1-760x531

1915-Duesenberg-Racing-Car-II

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Old 05-18-2016, 03:13 PM   #18
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Soo much awesome right there!
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Old 05-18-2016, 03:20 PM   #19
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Old 05-18-2016, 05:28 PM   #20
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Soo much awesome right there!
^ditto, wish I lived closer to check out that shop!
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Old 05-18-2016, 05:52 PM   #21
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That's a cool unit. I like seeing the old blowers on VW bugs too.
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Old 05-19-2016, 01:33 AM   #22
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16-valve 300 ci four actuated by rocker arms. 3 3/4 inch bore by a 6 3/4 inch stroke. - low rpm engine but it will push the car to 130 mph.
Just a little under square. What is the idle speed on something like that? I am assuming it is slow and has a rather hefty flywheel.
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Old 05-19-2016, 01:38 PM   #23
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Just a little under square. What is the idle speed on something like that? I am assuming it is slow and has a rather hefty flywheel.
It actually for the time, has a light weight flywheel.

It does not have a tach, but since it is a racing car it has a high idle of maybe 800 rpm.

It has three sets of rear end gears and with the 2.2 to 1 gears on a 2.5 mile track it's top speed is about 125-30 mph, but it takes a couple of laps to get up to it.
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Old 05-23-2016, 10:51 AM   #24
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It appears that there were two different models of B20 fuel injection heads and I am looking for the one with the lowest compression ratio to use with this supercharger

One is referred to as the "E" and the other as the "F"?

What are the actual differences between the two and the compression ratios for each one?

How exactly can they be told apart?
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Old 05-23-2016, 11:22 AM   #25
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The E is high compression, F is low compression. I have no idea how to tell one from the other. From what I've understood, the F head is more desirable for port casting. My take on the whole deal is to go with the F head, deshroud the valves, then cc, and shave to whatever static CR you are looking for. I was lucky enough to have mine come out at 9.5:1 after decking the block for a .030 piston to head clearance.
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