Going straight / 240 steering "wander"

[LC4CARL]

Originally Posted by Tuff240

Go have A N T tire align it.
-.5 to -1 camber, toe 0* would be a good start from where you are at.

The rake isn't helping at all. As Ken said, you lost caster, but you have a lot of weight riding on the front tires now also. It's probably squirrelly under braking or during hard cornering right now too.

Also what ball joints are you using? Manual or power ones? Should be using power ones with more castor.
Loosen the 3 bj bolts and pull out and forward on the strut assembly while you tighten them.

Interesting point about the weight transfer. PS ball joints. Please see second post.

[LC4CARL]

Originally Posted by blkaplan

If only there was some magical way....

http://www.kaplhenke.com/collections...t-strut-mounts

or

http://www.kaplhenke.com/collections...e-strut-mounts

So I email you the same basic content and you blow me off with one line that it's not bump steer? Then I post it and you're on board?

[KeizerBrickGuy]

These are the settings I was able to get myself.

[LC4CARL]

Originally Posted by Redwood Chair

Your worn out rack probably isn't helping either.

I think you're right. I wish the power steering deal (with another vendor) had not gone to hell. I'll likely look here first.

[LC4CARL]

Originally Posted by Harlard

Lower the ass end and get BNE Select top mounts. DO IT NOOB.

Thank you.

I held an ASE Master Technician certification for decades. I'm not a noob.

[LC4CARL]

Originally Posted by Jack

You don't know nothing old man....



We said this would happen from the start

✅ cut sprangs
✅ complain of crap ride/drive ability

Future ✅ s

- worn tires
- put on jackstands
- let 6 months pass
- buy another Volvo
- crush

Wow. Did you come up with that all on your own? Like a phucking broken record around here.

[LC4CARL]

Originally Posted by Benjam83

Tie rod ends?
Ball joints?
Bushings?

Adjustable strut mounts aren't going to do crap if the rest of the system isn't in good repair.

See first post:

The car ('87 245 N/A) has the following mods: 2.5 coils off front, 1.0 off rear, Bilstien Touring shocks, adjustable rear track bar, 16.5 mm rear wheel spacers, upper and lower front braces, Hydras with new 215/55R16 tires (32 psi), 23mm / 19mm swaybars, manual steering rack, new ball joints, tight tie rod ends, original bushings.

[LC4CARL]

Originally Posted by KeizerBrickGuy

These are the settings I was able to get myself.

Beautiful. Nice caster.

[KeizerBrickGuy]

My caster is more shot to hell than yours and drives fine, just look at my post align specs. I think it has nothing to do with the alignment; I would still push the alignment dude to get it all set to spec and then reassess. Now that I think about it, since I installed wagon overloads on my wife's car; it tends to wander a bit more than it used to, but then of course I haven't realigned it to check the numbers though, either. Her car has a lot of rake to it like your car. Looks good though.

[Jack]

Originally Posted by LC4CARL

Wow. Did you come up with that all on your own? Like a phucking broken record around here.

I can't take the credit. A group of us got together in OT and greatly discussed why people most often crush their Volvo around here. Extensive research by 17 members discovered that
97% of the time it starts with cut springs
the stats go even higher when car is an 85+ 240 to a 98.7% probability of crushing
99.9876% if belt line trim has been removed



fix your suspension and steering and quit trying to reinvent the wheel

[LC4CARL]

It's probably me, but the camaraderie of a shared enthusiasm in Volvo's is nil around here sometimes. I have put hundreds of hours and thousands of dollars into my ride. I have been supportive and respectful of others on the forum. I need to take a break from this place.

[Redwood Chair]

99.9876%

[LC4CARL]

Originally Posted by Jack

I can't take the credit. A group of us got together in OT and greatly discussed why people most often crush their Volvo around here. Extensive research by 17 members discovered that
97% of the time it starts with cut springs
the stats go even higher when car is an 85+ 240 to a 98.7% probability of crushing
99.9876% if belt line trim has been removed



fix your suspension and steering and quit trying to reinvent the wheel

Reinvent the wheel? Doing what 1000's have done before me? I am trying to fix it. God!

[Jack]

Originally Posted by LC4CARL

It's probably me, but the camaraderie of a shared enthusiasm in Volvo's is nil around here sometimes. I have put hundreds of hours and thousands of dollars into my ride. I have been supportive and respectful of others on the forum. I need to take a break from this place.

stop getting butt hurt raise the front end of your car and start checking stuff
I had bjs go bad after 6 months and I get my car aligned everytime I mess around with suspension stuff

a loose rack with bad alignment can give you a super detached feeling at the wheel

[Jack]

Originally Posted by Redwood Chair

99.9876%

I think I pissed him off

[Tuff240]

Originally Posted by LC4CARL

So I email you the same basic content and you blow me off with one line that it's not bump steer? Then I post it and you're on board?

Strut mounts have nothing to do with bump steer. I guess that ASE cert isn't helping you much.

[KeizerBrickGuy]

Lets play nice now, kids...can't let this thread turn into a usual day on VolvoSpeed.

[KeizerBrickGuy]

In case you wanted some TSB info:

NEW ALIGN SPECIFICATIONS

TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN

Reference Number(s): GROUP 64, NO. 122, Date of Issue: March 1991


ALIGNMENT SPECIFICATIONS


Model Volvo 200

Group 64

Bulletin No. 122

Date March 1991

NEW FRONT CAMBER SPECIFICATION


The camber specification listed below should be used for all 200 series cars with power steering. Note that the upper range of the camber has been increased to +1 degree. However, observe the listed restrictions.

CAMBER .............+1/4 to +1 degree

RESTRICTIONS:
•The difference between left and right camber should not exceed 1/2 degree.
•If uneven tire wear, or if "feathering" of the tire is observed, the camber should be set as close to the lower range (+1/4 degree) as possible.


NOTE: This Specification is considered to be retro-active for all 200 series cars.

Cars that have been set up to the previous specification, and remain within the previous specification, need NOT be re-adjusted to the new specification.

[blkaplan]

+1 camber :r ofl:

[KeizerBrickGuy]

Originally Posted by blkaplan

+1 camber :r ofl:

What's so funny Ben? lol I was just perusing the TSB's on Mitchell and saw that.

[2manyturbos]

Originally Posted by KeizerBrickGuy

What's so funny Ben? lol I was just perusing the TSB's on Mitchell and saw that.

Nobody in their right mind would set their camber to positive 1 degree. That's what is funny about that. I don't care what the bulletin says.

Also, I would never set the front end of a 240 to zero toe. They always wander when they do not have a small amount of toe in. What the car is set to on an alignment rack is not what it will actually be doing when driving down the road. The parts all deflect under load. Zero toe static becomes toe out when the car is moving forward. Guaranteed to climb the ruts in the road surface.

[Benjam83]

Originally Posted by LC4CARL

See first post:

The car ('87 245 N/A) has the following mods: 2.5 coils off front, 1.0 off rear, Bilstien Touring shocks, adjustable rear track bar, 16.5 mm rear wheel spacers, upper and lower front braces, Hydras with new 215/55R16 tires (32 psi), 23mm / 19mm swaybars, manual steering rack, new ball joints, tight tie rod ends, original bushings.

Ok, so you've said it....twice then. Your car has 30 year old rubber bushings.





Nah....gotta be something else...

[2manyturbos]

Carl,

You make no mention of any work done on the rear suspension. A broken bushing in the rear of a 240 will make them wander all over the place no matter what you have done with the front end. The upper torque rod bushings are always broken on a 240 with as many miles on it as yours has.

[Jack]

Originally Posted by Benjam83

Ok, so you've said it....twice then. Your car has 30 year old rubber bushings.





Nah....gotta be something else...

please get out with logic

[KeizerBrickGuy]

Originally Posted by 2manyturbos

Nobody in their right mind would set their camber to positive 1 degree. That's what is funny about that. I don't care what the bulletin says.

Also, I would never set the front end of a 240 to zero toe. They always wander when they do not have a small amount of toe in. What the car is set to on an alignment rack is not what it will actually be doing when driving down the road. The parts all deflect under load. Zero toe static becomes toe out when the car is moving forward. Guaranteed to climb the ruts in the road surface.

That is true about the camber, but zero toe? Talk about stability issues. So maybe it would boil down to bushings now....