Looking to make your car turbocharged? READ FIRST

[300+K 740GLE]

Originally Posted by stylngle2003

the oil feed line goes from the block (some do right under the oil pressure sender) to the top of the turbo, while the oil drain line goes from the bottom of the turbo to either a fitting/hole on t he block, or on the pan

Although, If you decide to tap the block, make sure the drain line is about the normal oil level with the car not running, this will ensure that the turbo and lines will drain completely and you won't worry about oil gumming inside the turbo when the car is cooling... which is bad, And if your going through all that trouble of installing a turbo, a Preluber system should be in order also, which helps cool the oil easier, and less wear on the motor during startup.

Happy Volvoing!

[SKRY]

hey what kind of turbo should i change to? for volvo 940 turbo? everything is standard but i want to modified it. without modifying the engine like its injection o somehting.

[andyturbo]

Read a thread in "Rolling" about Kenny Howard article "The Complete Geek's Guide to Turbocharging Your B23F/B230F".
How can I get a copy?
AT

[Mjolner]

"Although, If you decide to tap the block, make sure the drain line is about the normal oil level with the car not running, this will ensure that the turbo and lines will drain completely and you won't worry about oil gumming inside the turbo when the car is cooling... which is bad, And if your going through all that trouble of installing a turbo, a Preluber system should be in order also, which helps cool the oil easier, and less wear on the motor during startup.

Happy Volvoing!"

THIS COMMENT APPLIES ONLY TO THOSE OF YOU WHO ARE WELDING A BUNG TO THE OIL PAN. IT DOES NOT APPLY TO THOSE OF YOU WHO ARE "TAPPING THE BLOCK" AS IT GOES INTO THE PROPPER GALLEYS WHICH ARE ABOVE THE RESERVE LEVEL IN THE PAN.

[dihmels]

OK, another newbie here. This is my third Volvo (01 V70 "Blahhh"), (1995 850glt "still have it and love it") and my new baby, a 1987 240 DL in amazing cosmetic shape. jut slow as an old goat with it's super tuned super stock b230f. I just picked up a 1988 740 turbo with a <80k motor. Yes, I have read and am much wiser now, but...... here is a couple of questions for Ss and Gs anyhow...

1. What is the best downpipe to use? Is there a bolt-on solution, or only custom fab? I am now new cat back....
2. I'm going entire engine swap. The 88 740 t had the AW71and I have the AW70. Will the AW70 handle the 165 or so HP? Yes I'm staying auto beacuase I want to. I won't be racing, just looking for an interesting project.
3. If I do get a little crazy, will the 5 speed manual drop into the 240 without much grief.

BTW, the detail ealier in this thread by Xman regarding the 740 to 240 conversion. Very helpfull.

Thanks, from a newbie.

[dihmels]

OK, another newbie here. This is my third Volvo (01 V70 "Blahhh"), (1995 850glt "still have it and love it") and my new baby, a 1987 240 DL in amazing cosmetic shape. jut slow as an old goat with it's super tuned super stock b230f. I just picked up a 1988 740 turbo with a <80k motor. Yes, I have read and am much wiser now, but...... here is a couple of questions for Ss and Gs anyhow...

1. What is the best downpipe to use? Is there a bolt-on solution, or only custom fab? I am now new cat back....
2. I'm going entire engine swap. The 88 740 t had the AW71 and I have the AW70. Will the AW70 handle the 165 or so HP? Yes I'm staying auto beacuase I want to. I won't be racing, just looking for an interesting project.
3. If I do get a little crazy, will the 5 speed manual drop into the 240 without much grief.

BTW, the detail ealier in this thread by Xman regarding the 740 to 240 conversion. Very helpfull.

Thanks for a newbie.

[DOHC740]

Can some one give me a complete list of all the parts needed to turbo my 16v motor.

I'm in the process of picking up a 8v manifold, a adapter plate to use it on my 16v, a just finished cleaning and polishing my 850 TB for the 16v. I'm picking up a rebuilt stock 8v turbo.

But I just want to know what else I will need to complete it without having to change any major motor parts. I'm not planning on racing my volvo, I just want to get little more around town power when needed.

I have a 91 740 with the Dohc 16v redblock motor. the motor has been rebuilt 22k ago, along with the tranny. The diff was checked 2 weeks ago and had the fluid drained and refilled.

The car is overall great shape.

I'm just looking for a complete list off al componets needed to complete the installation.

Thanks

Rich

[DOHC740]

and if anyone has these parts needed forsale, please let me know..

Thanks

[Mueller]

Originally Posted by DOHC740

Can some one give me a complete list of all the parts needed to turbo my 16v motor.

I'm in the process of picking up a 8v manifold, a adapter plate to use it on my 16v, a just finished cleaning and polishing my 850 TB for the 16v. I'm picking up a rebuilt stock 8v turbo.

But I just want to know what else I will need to complete it without having to change any major motor parts. I'm not planning on racing my volvo, I just want to get little more around town power when needed.

I have a 91 740 with the Dohc 16v redblock motor. the motor has been rebuilt 22k ago, along with the tranny. The diff was checked 2 weeks ago and had the fluid drained and refilled.

The car is overall great shape.

I'm just looking for a complete list off al componets needed to complete the installation.

Thanks

Rich

I take it you have not read any of this??

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=26609

[Stjuuv]

I have got a '91 940 with a B230FB engine (531 head, VX3 cam), and we are thinking about adding a turbo to the setup. The question I'm most interested in at the moment, is whether it would be OK to keep the air filter and the windshield washer tank at the intake side of the engine and the battery at the exhaust side, and just run a tube from the air filter over the engine to the turbo? I do have a turbo windshield washer tank and the air filter casing, but they don't seem to fit very well, since the ABS and, when installed, the intercooler make things very tight at the exhaust side. By just running a tube over the engine, I would also save the trouble of running the windshield washer wiring and tubing and the AMM wiring to the other side of the car, but would I run into any unexpected problems when trying this?

Also, since I am bolting it onto a stock N/A engine, I am planning on keeping the boost fairly low (perhaps 0,3-0,4 BAR?), so can I assume that the N/A ECU, injectors (yellow ones), pistons and rods can handle that sort of a turbo setup?

[Xman]

IMO, the more you deviate from a stock turbo set-up, the more unexpected problems you will encounter and have to solve. Why make it hard on yourself when you can go to the salvage yard and strip out the wiring harnesses and other parts from another 940. You can keep the boost real low initially then crank it up later depending on your set-up. If you are going to turn the boost down you need a waste gate with an adustable actuator, some are fixed. Be careful, I initially adjusted my waste gate for lower boost and it loosened the nut holding the actuator inside the diaphram. The rod eventually worked free and I lost all boost. Your engine should have no issue running stock boost pressures if you use green or orange tops (preferred) and turbo fuel and ignition computers.

[Stjuuv]

The thing is that a turbo with an exhaust is the only thing we have on the shelf at the moment, and we got bits and pieces off another turbo engine, but finding a donor turbo 940 will probably take quite a while, and the main idea at the moment is to do a +T as simply as possible.
Since I probably won't be changing anything else at the engine in the near future, going for the low boost is the only goal right now. The turbo does have an adjustable waste gate, I wouldn't think of putting it on if it didn't.

As I understand, the largest issues you see with the plan are the injectors and the control units?

[Xman]

Check post number 81 in this thread. It details some of the issues I ran into with my conversion that were not covered elsewhere on the forum. I turned my waste gate down so that it wasn't flush against the seat (riding partially open) and I was still too lean with stock. Also, there is an option to use a aftermarket cone filter which should be better than trying to run a tube over the engine. I didn't find any issues with running the AMM harness to the passenger side so long as I maintained ground.

[245ster]

A 740 or 940 turbo has a turbocharged B230ft, correct?

if that is so, then would the easiest way to get all of the parts be to find a 740 or 940 turbo and just use it as a donor car to turbocharge my 240? Because they have the same engine, just one has a turbo and all associated parts.

(i hope this isnt a stupid question)

[black 940]

Yes and yes.

[Mueller]

Originally Posted by Stjuuv

The thing is that a turbo with an exhaust is the only thing we have on the shelf at the moment, and we got bits and pieces off another turbo engine, but finding a donor turbo 940 will probably take quite a while, and the main idea at the moment is to do a +T as simply as possible.
Since I probably won't be changing anything else at the engine in the near future, going for the low boost is the only goal right now. The turbo does have an adjustable waste gate, I wouldn't think of putting it on if it didn't.

As I understand, the largest issues you see with the plan are the injectors and the control units?

get the injectors and the control units from the turbo donor vehicle...easy...no issues at all...

[Reintz]

I hope the next question of mine is not a stupid one:
Can I make a centrifugal supercharger out of a turbocharger and if so, then does is still need a oil feed to it?

[Mueller]

Originally Posted by Reintz

I hope the next question of mine is not a stupid one:
Can I make a centrifugal supercharger out of a turbocharger and if so, then does is still need a oil feed to it?

yes and yes....


http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Carburetedblowers

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/superchargingsmallengines

[Freq]

So far all the instructions I've seen regarding drilling the block for the oil return have basically just said "drill the block" and that's it. Are there any write-ups on how to drill the block, how to get the hole threaded, etc? I'm pretty confident that I could to the turbo swap pretty easily, but tapping the block is the only part I'm worried about. I know that metal shavings need to be removed by flushing with mineral spirits. Is that just pouring the spirits into the new hole? Should the oil pan be removed while all this is going on to protect the internals from the shavings?

Also, I forgot to steal the downpipe (exhaust that runs from the turbo to the cat, right?). Can I run the car without that if I have to drive somewhere to pick it up? Or is the lack of backpressure going to mess things up?

[FunkyStankyChicken]

Just drill a hole in the oil pan, cut a section of the oil drain tube off, stick it in the hole and weld it up. use silicone hose to bridge the gap.

[RipplingBeast]

newbie needs help. Fifth or sixth Volvo I've owned, done heads and same-engine swaps before, but this is new to me. Took a B230FT and trans out of a wrecked 89 740 Turbo, and dropped it into a 95 940 NA body I got for almost nothing, simply because I needed a car and money's short. From reading this forum, I don't need to change the fuel pump unless it gives me trouble, and I can then put the turbo fuel pump into the system; not hard. I have searched for literally hours on this site and can't find which computer I need; I have the 946 in the 95; it may run the turbo, it may not; I don't know, do you? The biggest problem I'm running into in the installation is that the engine sensor connections all look the same, and I have no way at this point of knowing which of four identical connectors connects to which of three very different sensors and an idle control. The manual's completely worthless. Help? Please?

[Mueller]

Originally Posted by RipplingBeast

newbie needs help. Fifth or sixth Volvo I've owned, done heads and same-engine swaps before, but this is new to me. Took a B230FT and trans out of a wrecked 89 740 Turbo, and dropped it into a 95 940 NA body I got for almost nothing, simply because I needed a car and money's short. From reading this forum, I don't need to change the fuel pump unless it gives me trouble, and I can then put the turbo fuel pump into the system; not hard. I have searched for literally hours on this site and can't find which computer I need; I have the 946 in the 95; it may run the turbo, it may not; I don't know, do you? The biggest problem I'm running into in the installation is that the engine sensor connections all look the same, and I have no way at this point of knowing which of four identical connectors connects to which of three very different sensors and an idle control. The manual's completely worthless. Help? Please?

go back and grab the ECU (fuel computer) and the EZK (ignition computer)

manual is fine, look at the wiring diagrams, trace and use a voltmeter...easy, it is all there in black and white....

[RipplingBeast]

I have the 89 ECU and EZK; they don't fit the physical plugs available to put them into in the 95 940. The 89 ECU is 23 pins, and the 95 ECU socket is 35 pins. I've read on here that various computers will run more than one car and engine, so if I can find an ECU adn EZK that simply plug in and run, I'd spend that money.

If I have to use the 89 ECU, I am at a rather complete loss as to how to wire it. Is there a FAQ on that, or a diagram somewhere?

Specifically, I'm thinking of getting the ECU and EZK out of a 95 940 turbo, which should, AFAIK, simply plug in and run that motor. I replaced a B230F with a B230FT, and chagned the sensors in it to the 940 sensors, so a 940 Turbo computer [I]should[I] run it. I think.

[Mueller]

LH2.2 for the turbo, LH2.4 for the 940 (not sure about the ignition or not) so, you'll need LH2.4 computers...to wire the "wrong" computers, too much work, you'd be better off swapping wiring harnesses...

now that I think of it...you are screwed, the 940 computer will want to "see" a crank position sensor which your motor will not have, so you'll need to grab it off the n/a motor as well as the distributor

[Mueller]

haynes or chilton manual have wiring diagrams.......with pinouts....

or go to maintence section, search for links to "greenbooks"