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T5 swap, all you need to know

if he is still on this forum
I'm still here. Just not a whole lot. I feel kinda bad about it. But then again, my excuse is, in order: new house, new job, home improvements on new house.

I guess I need to be abundantly clear on my set-up, since many people seem to not read what I have (I continue to get PMs about my ClutchNet disc setup, which I don't have!).

Now please, read this. READ THIS!!
This is Shane's (Mach3.75's) transmission set-up:
'83 B23F block, '79 B21F crank, B23F bellhousing
'93 Mustang 5.0 T5 (tag 208)
The Clutch disc: Spec-Clutch 6-puck carbon/ceramic for a 4-cyl NA Mustang
The Pressure Plate: ClutchNet 100% over-stock clamping pressure for an '83 B23F
The entire clutch (dis)engagement and throwout bearing: McLeod hydraulic throwout bearing for a '93 Mustang T5, linked to a hydraulic master cylinder from a stock '91 Volvo 944ti.

And that is my set-up as it stands (well, technically, "as it stands" is currently on the garage floor, waiting for me to pull the head and work on #4 after dropping a valve).
Please note that I am NOT using a ClutchNet clutch disc!!!!! This seems to be the assumption everyone is making.

Here are the results, as best as my memory serves, from when it was running:
I had NO engagement problems (though first is a little tall, at 3.31:1)
It shifted into reverse like butter--as if it came from the factory that way
I had no vibration
I had no noise
I had no chatter
I had no slipping
It took about 100 miles to break in, maybe less (I was expecting at least 250, maybe even 500!!)
The clutch engages like butter (again, as if from the factory). This was a tremendoous surprise to me, since I was stepping up to what I thought was a particularly grabby disc for my application, and especially when I considered the 100% over PP. I was expecting neck-snapping, engine-stalling engagement even after it was broken in. Turns out this disc is designed to be particularly smooth on engagement, yet hold power like it's welded to the PP. I can't even describe my nut-busting joy over this disc choice!
The only complaint I have, and this may be due to a plethora of minor changes/modifications/adjustments/etc I still have yet to make, is that it disengages only when the pedal is as far as it will go--"through the floor" as I like to call it. And also, when I'm really getting aggressive with it, it likes to occassionally go soft on me (like there's an air bubble or a slight leak or something having to do with the hyd TOB). But like I said, I'm positive it's a matter of minor fixes that I need to just go ahead and do.

As for things I would do differently next time, about the only thing that comes to mind is to find some way of locating the shifter stub about 8" further back. I had no problem relocating the shifter handle, but it did mean I had to cut away a section under my fuse panel, and then re-mount my fuse panel higher and further forward. If the shifter stub coming out of the gearbox was further back to begin with, I wouldn't have to cut out any sheetmetal. There is likely a way to do this by hybridizing a variety of T5s: say, a Camaro front section with input shaft, an Isuzu Trooper tail section, and 5.0 Mustang internals (this is only a random grouping of available T5 applications; I'm not saying they all fit together, or would even work as a unit!), but at the time I was installing mine, I was the pioneer for the 700s and there wasn't exactly a whole lot of information available to me. Of course, if you've got the money, the shifter relocation may not even be an issue, since you could go with a T56 or even a Tremec.
 
I notched the tunnel as well, I hear tell the camaro tailshaft puts the shifter ~3 inchs back, wich would be perfect (however, it also puts the mount at a funny angle, potentially interesting to fab a bracket).

I'm getting a ford slip yoke attached to a volvo auto driveshaft (and the shaft shortened appropriately.. for me this was 16 inches from the tailshaft of the transmission to the first bolt hole for the center support plate)

the only thing i'm expecting to hafta fab is the shifter arm, it turns out the setup i got has too short of a throw. I might also elongate the middle piece to place the shifter a little further back.
pics of this will follow, at the moment the transmission is on the floor of the garage waiting for the driveshaft and tranny mount.
 
I suppose I also need to add:

Due to the crossmember on the 700s, I am running the two-piece driveshaft, like stock. I had a DS shop come out with a single-piece shaft made up for me, but we couldn't get it in with the crossmember. I didn't want to remove the crossmember, either, because it sure as hell looks like it is structurally very important. Unfortunately, that crossmember is welded to the body, otherwise I would've just unbolted it and used a single shaft.
(The crossmember of which I speak is for the DS center support bearing, since you're wondering).
From what I hear, the 200s don't have this crossmember and a single shaft is easy to do.
I figure that unless someone is willing to take a big risk with structural integrity, 700 owners are going to be stuck with a two-piece DS.
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.
.
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........Of course, now that I'm talking about it, I'm giving some slight consideration to going out and removing the crossmember and finding a way to bolt it up, so that I can go with a single shaft........
 
Vibration on T-5 gone at last!!!

I have been trying to figure out a decell vibration on my car since I installed my T-5Z. Almost everyone who installed the Clutchnet pressure plate and disc has experienced this problem. I removed the original Clutchnet pressure plate as it was slipping bad(was supposed to be 50% stronger than stock). I installed my Sachs pressure plate with the Clutchnet disc and it no longer slipped but still vibrated on decell. Having had the trans out at least three times to replace/check parts, the vibration was really starting to get to me. Having changed everything but the clutch disc, I decided to install these parts.

http://www.pbase.com/image/54371965

I just finished with my test drive and the vibration is gone! Before, I had quite a bit of shifter vibration, especially on decell. Now the shifter has the same feel accellerating and decellerating. The clutch engaged and disengaged perfectly the first try. I did put in a different T-5 as I wanted to try the lower ratios. When I had everything apart, I indexed the flywheel to the bellhousing/adapter. The bellhousing and John Parkers' adapter were spot on. Next I did some tests on the disc. It was sloppy on the input shaft compared to the new Spec clutch plate and another ford disc that I have(I bought a reman 8.5 for disc but decided not to use it). My battery is out on my digital calipers, but I was seeing some big differences between the Clutchnet disc and the Ford discs. I will post the differences when I get a battery for my calipers. Its my opinion that the clutch disc was rattling on the input shaft when it wasn't under load.
I really like the 3.35 low gear ratio of the T-5. I also like the .68 overdrive compared to the .63 of the T-5Z. I was only able to drive it about 20 miles but I like it!! I will put a couple hundred miles on it in the next week.
 
What about a 140?

*click- add to favorites*
has anyone here put a t5 in a 140?
I have a 142 with a long throw shifter, and I want to put in a true 5 speed. My only REAl concern is that the tunnel is not tall enough.:???:
 
Billiam500 said:
*click- add to favorites*
has anyone here put a t5 in a 140?
I have a 142 with a long throw shifter, and I want to put in a true 5 speed. My only REAl concern is that the tunnel is not tall enough.:???:
I think V-performance sells a adapter for the pushrod motor bellhousings. The tunnel may be too narrow(looks like it is on my p122.)
 
I know about the adapter, and I'm pretty sure my 71 has the wider tunnel, but my car has the long-throw shifter, and i think the rearward shifter 140's has a taller tunnel to accomodate the shift linkage. I'm not sure if the t5's require a taller tunnel.
 
Due to the crossmember on the 700s, I am running the two-piece driveshaft, like stock. I had a DS shop come out with a single-piece shaft made up for me, but we couldn't get it in with the crossmember. I didn't want to remove the crossmember, either, because it sure as hell looks like it is structurally very important.

Has anyone cut this out? American cars use bolt-on upgrade frame connectors. Or could it be put in with the rear axle out?
 
T5 Conversion

Hello All:
I'm just doing the initial research as to converting my 940T from automatic to a T5 transmission. I've noticed in the posts I've read about this conversions that the bell housing must be modified. I've contacted John Parker about the conversion and he told me he hasn't converted a 940. OK, in light of the similarities of 740 and 940 cars and many of the posts I've read are about those conversion, my question is, what modification must be done to the 740/940 Bell housing to accommodate this conversion? I'm just doing the ground work and probably will have more questions before it's done. Can someone fill me in, please?
Oh, by the way happy New Year.
Regards,
Bill
 
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Can anyone comfirm or deny that where the bellhousing bolts to the front case is the same from unit to unit? I know that there are differences in input shaft lengths, output shaft lengths, tail housing and gears. But the four bolts in the front should all be in the same place right?
 
OK well after a few months of building, then a few months of waiting, my friend and I got my T-5 into my 740. I got a 3.35 1st gear unit with a .68 OD. I have no idea how it feels yet because after three pumps of the pedal my slave cylinder exploded, then other mishaps ensued, in short my car hates me. But I did get a few pics of everything and posted them to my gallery. So here's a link: Chumley's T-5 crap
I've still got a few odds and ends to clean up, like an inner shift boot and finishing up the shifter angle/position, and covering up my fuse box.
 
OK well after a few months of building, then a few months of waiting, my friend and I got my T-5 into my 740. I got a 3.35 1st gear unit with a .68 OD. I have no idea how it feels yet because after three pumps of the pedal my slave cylinder exploded, then other mishaps ensued, in short my car hates me. But I did get a few pics of everything and posted them to my gallery. So here's a link: Chumley's T-5 crap
I've still got a few odds and ends to clean up, like an inner shift boot and finishing up the shifter angle/position, and covering up my fuse box.

Did you put the S-10 tail housing on the back of it?
 
OK just to clarify the GM trans that I used came out of an 88 Camaro 2.8L V6. By comparison the Mustang shifter would have been in my fuse panel in 1st gear. As it is the fuse panel didn't have to get moved.
 
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