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Oil burner

adamdrives

Member
Joined
Aug 9, 2010
Location
San Jose
Hey Fellas, having a problem with my 85 d24t 744 with unknown high mileage. She has always had an appetite for oil, but more recently I took her to an autox event and lost about 1/2+ quart from 6-7 runs. I can see oil spraying out of a bad seal on the intake, which tells me it is definitely coming from the turbo. This is a new (chinabay) turbo with a few thousand on it. Oil seals already no good? I was watching an episode of Roadkill (any fans here?) where they turbo a 5.0 swapped 240z. They end up fitting a scavenge pump on the turbo because oil cannot vacate fast enough and ends up getting pushed out. Possible cause? I am no guru, just a humble DIYer who would like to get back to the track.

I have an oil seperator/breather box so I dont think its (only) crankcase pressure being pushed into the turbo. I also haven't gotten any oil build up in it.
 
The ebay turbos are hit or miss, some of them will work reliably as a genuine one, sometimes you get 50 miles on it.

That being said my volvo 13c had problems blowing a lot of oil out into the intake, before I found if I kept the oil at about 1/2 or less on the dipstick it stopped blowing much if any oil.
 
The ebay turbos are hit or miss, some of them will work reliably as a genuine one, sometimes you get 50 miles on it.

That being said my volvo 13c had problems blowing a lot of oil out into the intake, before I found if I kept the oil at about 1/2 or less on the dipstick it stopped blowing much if any oil.

I've also found that my 88 765 with TD04H-13C-6 smokes out the exhaust more when the oil level is at the full mark on the dipstick. I also have oil coming from the crankcase breather hose to turbo inlet hose connection. I just figured it was from too much blow-by. I get plenty of smoke out of the exhaust when letting up (high vacuum) after running 75 mph to pass slower vehicles. If I drive at 55-60 mph the smoke is less noticeable.
 
The ebay turbos are hit or miss, some of them will work reliably as a genuine one, sometimes you get 50 miles on it.

That being said my volvo 13c had problems blowing a lot of oil out into the intake, before I found if I kept the oil at about 1/2 or less on the dipstick it stopped blowing much if any oil.

My 13c does the same thing. If I have the oil level at all above 50% on the dipstick, it blows it out the intake. Thankfully it stops exactly when it's down to the right level, then uses no more oil.
 
I've also found that my 88 765 with TD04H-13C-6 smokes out the exhaust more when the oil level is at the full mark on the dipstick.

My 13c does the same thing. If I have the oil level at all above 50% on the dipstick, it blows it out the intake. Thankfully it stops exactly when it's down to the right level, then uses no more oil.

I'm glad it isn't just me, haha I though the 10an bung was welded in the wrong spot on the pan for a good while
 
We had a 308 Ferarri years back that had a BAE turbo kit. It used a scavenger pump on the drain side. Oil went into a collector box and a cheap thumper pump pushed it back into the sump. Might look at something like it.
 
We had a 308 Ferarri years back that had a BAE turbo kit. It used a scavenger pump on the drain side. Oil went into a collector box and a cheap thumper pump pushed it back into the sump. Might look at something like it.

Do you know why using one is necessary? It's not like the drain is undersized or has a long way to go. It seems to be a solution for oil through the turbo, I just don't understand why.
 
The ebay turbos are hit or miss, some of them will work reliably as a genuine one, sometimes you get 50 miles on it.

That being said my volvo 13c had problems blowing a lot of oil out into the intake, before I found if I kept the oil at about 1/2 or less on the dipstick it stopped blowing much if any oil.

Mine is a Garrett, not that it makes a difference. Leaving it low on the dipstick doesn't seem like an ideal solution, but next time it gets to halfway I'll leave it and see if it continues to burn. I think the valve stem seals could also be leaking, when I had the manifold off the valves were *super* coated in black gumminess.
 
Do you know why using one is necessary? It's not like the drain is undersized or has a long way to go. It seems to be a solution for oil through the turbo, I just don't understand why.

On the 308 the turbo drain was lower than the sump.it is hard for liquid to flow up. A pump may move the oil faster than gravity.
 
If the turbo is in a good location and drains well to the sump then the excess intake oil could be from a restricted air intake path that causes oil to be sucked past the seal in the turbo. It also could be from high oil pressure pushing the oil out past the seal. Some turbos like a restriction in the oil feed to help prevent this issue. Of course it could be the seal in the turbo failing as mentioned.

Running the oil level low isn't good. There is only four quarts in there.
 

Good catch. Original was a garrett, this is a knock off garrett as opposed to a mitsu/td04 style. Not that it would necessarily make a difference. Oil seals are oil seals. Although now that I think about it the garrett has a two piece compressor housing with a large o-ring separating the two unlike the one piece mitsu. Maybe I have a bad seal there, will have to check out a spare to see if that's a possibility.

Running the oil level low isn't good. There is only four quarts in there.

This is a d24t so 6.5 or so, but agreed. If running 1/2 low solves oil consumption that wouldn't be the end of the world but I'd prefer to be able to run the proper amount for peace of mind.

The drain is certainly higher than the sump @ the turbo, and it's larger than the fwd td04 drains I'm familiar with. I think the gasser garrett turbos use the same or similar braided 1/2" or 3/8 drain.

As far as intake path, there's about 2 inches between the turbo and intake manifold, and the aftermarket turbo has a larger than stock (~2") outlet. On the inlet side it's 3" to a cone filter.
 
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