I think it’s Time for a Wagon 1988 740 Turbo

[DET17]

A couple months ago, I had an intermittent no crank issue that progressively got worse. Since I have the full wiring schematics for my 92 940, I root caused it at the shifter PRNDL safety lockout. Found NOS on eBay, installed (a bit of a PITA job to be honest) and have not had an issue since. Years back I put a factory BOSCH reman. starter on my 94 squirter engine, so I was fairly certain it wasn't that. I believe your year might use the same part safety switch. Insist on the OEM German made.... I wouldn't risk third world parts on such a critical component.

From what I remember in discussions with Ben, he said if the vehicle had been lowered more than 1.25 inches then the RC would be moved unfavorably. I have pics in my build thread that will show you what all is involved to fit the QSRC.

FWIW, the first set of lowering springs I ran in my sedan were the IPD blue sport springs. Over the years I ran both BILS HD and now KONI SPORT dampers. I'll say I have not missed the IPD springs one bit since selling them! The current progressives ride much better IMO than those "sport springs" did, which I had coupled with the BILS HD. By comparison, the 745T at wagon spring ride height rode brilliantly with them!

Good luck in sorting out your no start issue. Hopefully the set of contacts in the ignition switch in these cars is bulletproof.... I was dreading that was my high resistance / intermittent contact point, but it turned out to be the shifter safety switch.

[Coupid]

I pulled that NSS switch out and pulled the switch apart to clean the heck out of the contacts so I’m thinking that isn’t the issue. I suppose it still could be faulty.

I found your QSRc thread. Thanks, that is super helpful. I’m sold!

Originally Posted by DET17

A couple months ago, I had an intermittent no crank issue that progressively got worse. Since I have the full wiring schematics for my 92 940, I root caused it at the shifter PRNDL safety lockout. Found NOS on eBay, installed (a bit of a PITA job to be honest) and have not had an issue since. Years back I put a factory BOSCH reman. starter on my 94 squirter engine, so I was fairly certain it wasn't that. I believe your year might use the same part safety switch. Insist on the OEM German made.... I wouldn't risk third world parts on such a critical component.

From what I remember in discussions with Ben, he said if the vehicle had been lowered more than 1.25 inches then the RC would be moved unfavorably. I have pics in my build thread that will show you what all is involved to fit the QSRC.

FWIW, the first set of lowering springs I ran in my sedan were the IPD blue sport springs. Over the years I ran both BILS HD and now KONI SPORT dampers. I'll say I have not missed the IPD springs one bit since selling them! The current progressives ride much better IMO than those "sport springs" did, which I had coupled with the BILS HD. By comparison, the 745T at wagon spring ride height rode brilliantly with them!

Good luck in sorting out your no start issue. Hopefully the set of contacts in the ignition switch in these cars is bulletproof.... I was dreading that was my high resistance / intermittent contact point, but it turned out to be the shifter safety switch.

[Coupid]

After much deliberation and stalling I finally ordered a new metal heater core from IPD this week. I figured pulling the dash apart would be the perfect opportunity to also pull the interior and finally do the deep cleaning the car really needs.

Here are the yucky rear carpets:

And the yucky front carpet:


Rogued is sending me driver’s side carpet since mine was completely thrashed.

I’ve seen worse looking foam but the underside was totally disgusting and black:




Starting to get better:


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I shampooed and pressure washed the carpet today. It should be dry enough to put back in the car tomorrow. I pulled the foam and whatever that disgusting fiber was under the foam. Unless someone on here feels really strongly that I replace it with someone, I wont. It seems like nice weight and smell reduction to have it gone.

The new DS carpet and the IPD order should be here early next week!!! I’m getting excited for that heater core.

[ZVOLV]

Please document the heater core job. I gotta pull the dash on my 1991 740 Turbo and fix a few things- noisy blower motor, leaking heater core, clogged evaporator drain, AND losing the dash vents on acceleration.

Did the starter fix the intermittent no-crank?

[Coupid]

Originally Posted by ZVOLV

Please document the heater core job. I gotta pull the dash on my 1991 740 Turbo and fix a few things- noisy blower motor, leaking heater core, clogged evaporator drain, AND losing the dash vents on acceleration.

Did the starter fix the intermittent no-crank?

Okay I will!

I don’t want to jinx it but the starter seems to have done the trick. I drove it around all morning doing errands the other day and it was solid. Not as hot as it had been but I’ll take it.

[Coupid]

Been working on the heater core on and off for the last few days. I planned to document it but I found this tutorial instead and didn’t think I could improve upon it. https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/Hea...emoval_Details

Instead here are a few progress photos. It’s just like peeling an onion. A really complicated onion...



At this point I am down to the last 7mm heater core box screw. It’s completely hidden but with enough patience and extensions and swivels I’ll be able to get it.

The new core arrives tomorrow so hopefully I’ll be ready to slap it in and start trying to reassemble

[brickborg]

Oh man, I was contemplating doing the core on my 85 just due to age, but after looking at those pictures I think mine will stay in place until it leaks. Props for your industriousness though!

[2turbotoys]

The heater core is not a fun job, but it just takes time. It took me a long weekend to do the one in my 91 740T. I think it was about 10 hours. Nothing too hard, just a lot of taking stuff off and putting it back. I was hating it to be honest, but like I said it was time, not knuckle busting complicated stuff.

[Coupid]

Originally Posted by brickborg

Oh man, I was contemplating doing the core on my 85 just due to age, but after looking at those pictures I think mine will stay in place until it leaks. Props for your industriousness though!

Originally Posted by 2turbotoys

The heater core is not a fun job, but it just takes time. It took me a long weekend to do the one in my 91 740T. I think it was about 10 hours. Nothing too hard, just a lot of taking stuff off and putting it back. I was hating it to be honest, but like I said it was time, not knuckle busting complicated stuff.

Yeah not much too it. Just a lot of disassembly. I’m sure it wont exactly fly back together. It would be stressful to try to do in a weekend but I was able to take the car down for a longer time so there wasn’t much pressure which helps.

It took me about 20 min to get that last screw out. After a few false starts with like 2 feet of extensions from the passenger side, I ended up shining a light from the pass side and using my 1/4 drive with a 4 inch extension and a swivel from the driver’s side.

It’s out!



The screw pile plus the $5 in quarters I found under the carpet and in the HVAC vents...

[Coupid]

Wow, I jinxed it by thinking I was almost done when I got the old core out... everything fought really hard when I was trying to reassemble. It’s back together!



The PO had his mechanic loop the coolant lines to bypass the leaking core. He gave me the extra lines and I thought he also handed me the heater valve. I can’t find the valve anywhere so I had to order a new one. Once that arrives tomorrow I’ll complete the engine compartment side of things and let that puppy drink some coolant!!

[ZVOLV]

How is Santa Barbara? I play disc golf there when I go thru.

[Coupid]

Originally Posted by ZVOLV

How is Santa Barbara? I play disc golf there when I go thru.

We really like it!

[Shifted]

Twin of my '87, interior and all.

[Coupid]

Originally Posted by Shifted

Twin of my '87, interior and all.

It’s the best 740 interior option if you ask me!!

As if the heater core wasn’t enough fun, I thought I was knock out the rubber motor mount conversion. Figured it would take like two hours...

New brackets and mounts ready to go in




Horribly blown and collapsed units


What a PITA! It took forever to get the old units out. Like an idiot, I didn’t position the ramps far enough into the garage that I could close the door behind the car. I was racing to get the job done all day. Once I finally had both new mounts in, I accidentally crushed my hand with the jack handle. I escaped major injury but had to wake up my wife (who worked an overnight shift last night) to help me patch my hand back together.

Now I am having a bear of a time getting the oil cooler line back into the filter extension arm. I decided to call it a day and attack it tomorrow. Hopefully my hand is ready to go!

[Corey]

Hope your hand is OK! Loving the progress and thoroughness on this build

[Coupid]

Originally Posted by Corey

Hope your hand is OK! Loving the progress and thoroughness on this build

Thanks Corey! Hand is doing well, it was basically just a lesson to not rush and to remember basic safety when working on cars.

I was able to get the oil cooler return line plumbed back in yesterday so I hope to take a test drive this evening to see how the new mounts (and heat!!) feel.

[Coupid]

Had a few hours free so I headed down to the nearest junkyard about 45 minutes away in Santa Paula. They only had 1 RWD Volvo but I lucked out and it was a black interior 744 GL! I was able to pull a ton off of it:

TD6141 Radio (hopefully with working cassette player)
Instrument panel clock
Shifter OD wiring chrome cover thing
Rear View Mirror plastic cover
3 Door Panels
carpet area trim screw cover

Someone pulled all the lower trim without unscrewing anything so I lucked out when I found the one cover I needed undamaged. The clock was a huge pain to pull since the IP had to come out along with the fuel gauge. I hope it works!

The car only had 150k on it and despite being filled with cigarettes the interior was in good shape aside from the front leather seats. The door panels on the wagon are original and the vinyl is receding from the window seal on all but the driver’s side front.


I noticed that the speaker covers were different but for some reason thought I remembered that mine would work. They definitely don’t so I might have to head back tomorrow and see if the covers are still there. If I do, I will probably pull the DS front panel as well so it all matches.

The haul:



I swapped on the new door panels and it looks great after a little cleaning.

Even though both radios are 6141 models the wiring looks completely different. My car has an Amp maybe the donor car didn’t?

[Coupid]

Operation clock swap was a huge pain. So many screws to separate the cluster... but it was a success!

[fortbrick]

The boost gauge that Dave Barton used to offer is a cool little addition to the cluster... if you want to take it all back apart again...

[redblockpowered]

Instrument clusters have been my least favorite part of the 7/9 experience by far. Granted I haven't had to do the heater core yet, and that doesn't seem very fun either. Keep up the good work sorting this car out!

[Coupid]

Originally Posted by fortbrick

The boost gauge that Dave Barton used to offer is a cool little addition to the cluster... if you want to take it all back apart again...

Lol well that wouldn’t actually be that bad since it’s only two screws to pull off the boost gauge. The clock was like fully buried in the damn thing. Those do look great but if I was going through the trouble I’d just get a calibrated gauge... and then a MBC ... lol

Originally Posted by redblockpowered

Instrument clusters have been my least favorite part of the 7/9 experience by far. Granted I haven't had to do the heater core yet, and that doesn't seem very fun either. Keep up the good work sorting this car out!

Thanks man!

I took the whole family back to the JY yesterday on our way to Ventura so I could snag the speaker covers and the DS front panel. Then I realized that all the clips that retain the covers were missing. While I decide if I want to order them from IPD or not I decided to throw some gorilla tape on there and see how it does. Finished product:



Im pretty happy I did that! Now there are just a few little areas on the seat that could be restitched and the interior is set. Well mostly because the dash is cracked too and the rear seat pockets are saggy

[Vol242vo]

Yeah, hard to beat a clean, black interior. Good decision on the swap and a nice JY score.

[LC4CARL]

So many good things happening!

[whatshouldido]

great progress going on here !

[Coupid]

Originally Posted by Vol242vo

Yeah, hard to beat a clean, black interior. Good decision on the swap and a nice JY score.

Originally Posted by LC4CARL

So many good things happening!

Originally Posted by whatshouldido

great progress going on here !

Thanks guys!

No photos but last night I wired in the new TD-6141 since it looked a lot cleaner and had half the miles. I'm pretty sure it's wired correctly but I don't get any sound out of the radio, with a cassette in I can hear it play but only at max volume and only on the right speakers. Will investigate if the wiring is off or the radio is just bad. JY unit so anything is possible.