No start, out of ideas.CD00945

Just finnished my CD009 swap on my 945, its sat for 4 months and now wont go, what a way to celebrate...

So, heres a list of what i have done and what i have tried. Please leave the swap questions, i have pictures and info (the juicy type) for a swap thread but need to actually drive it so i can review ratios.

Currently car cranks and tries to fire intermittently but wont actually run, i sounds like it wants to but doesnt have enough to keep it up. Everything screams timing to me. But i dont have a light and the belts and pullys looks fine to me. I could get one if i need to but they are quite pricey this close to christmas.

I have,

Removed m46, plugged shifter plugs back in to complete ground in that circuit.

Swapped out to a near new starter.

Ballsed up the flywheel orientation so pulled gbox and fixed that. 95% sure its correct. Dont want to pull box again just to find its right, (its a heavy boiii) but its the next thing i guess.

Checked coil. Pulses consistently. (Tells me cps is good)?

Pulled plugs, plugged into leads and tested against strut tower (good spark) (gapped to big though but definatly firing)

Checked compression (evenish across all 4) (120miles)

Unplugged injectors, car still wouldnt run with a good spray of brake clean. (Will go buy propper starter fluid tomorrow)

Pulled EZK (currently plugged in but not properly mounted)

I pulled turbo and manifold to fix gasket leak.
And i removed the intercooler and radiator. But replaced both.

I have checked cam timing and mistook it for being out. On first start there may have been a breaker bar attached to the crank pully. So i pulled the top cover to check the tbelt. Looks fine with all teeth present. I double checked to see it hadnt jumped a tooth. Looks fine to me. (Line on front pully at 0? dot on cam matches line on back cover, cams at 9,3) i checked compression after this.

Cheers guys. If i think of anything else i have tried i will mention it. I have a multi meter so i can check things as they are suggested. I am itching to drive this bitch.

You won't need to pull the gearbox to check the position of the flywheel.
Removing the starter is good enough.

First you have to check if the outer ring of the vibration damper is still in correct position to the crank.
A breaker bar attached to the crank pulley is a stupid idea, sorry.
The special tool to fix the crank isn't really expensive, especially in relation to your gearbox swap and the kind of damage that's possible.
Remove spark plug 1 and turn the crank with a tool. Easy to see tdc with a long crewdriver into the spark plug hole.
I've seen several dampers slipped to wrong position.

The LH 2.4 will start the engine with only 4 wires, the cps, the coil, the EZK and the ECU.
No MAF, no sensor else needed.

Good luck, your "new" gearbox is really expensive in Europe for bad luck, Kay

Thanks heaps for the help. Ill check the damper, the breaker bar was on there just to turn the engine over to confirm engagement of clutch and ensuring the gears all selected. Cons of working with friends and not double checking their work. Lessons learnt.

I was under the impression the dampner was keyed. Is it just on a tapered shaft?

SEslayer said:

I was under the impression the dampner was keyed. Is it just on a tapered shaft?

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It is keyed but it is made up of 2 metal parts with vulcanised rubber sandwitched in between. It's the rubber that can let lose (common problem) and as a consequence the outer metal part can shift in relation to the crankshaft making the indications on the pulley edge useless because TDC on the edge of the pulley no longer corresponds real TDC.

If your spark is happening at the correct time, and mechanicals are good. It WILL run on ether if you did it right.

Maybe you put the timing belt on wrong. Did you use the crank GEAR to confirm TDC??? Crank pulley can be bad.

So i havent pulled the cambelt. Just pulled the belt off the top pully and tested it out on a tooth over either way. It runs when i set it one tooth advanced.

So i bought a timing light. Sure enough its flashing at Bout 12-15 past tdc.
Looks like im that 5% wrong and ballsed up my flywheel again somehow.
Maybe i need less late night thrashing for deadlines and more time during the day. 60 hour weeks, and a girlfriend really stretched me to thin ��.
I fixed it though. Im now working 65 hours a week and ditched the girl. Aint that what exhaust pipes are for anyway?
Cheers for the help guys
I suggest everyone save for a CD009 because its actually easy AF once its all figured out. Using it for drag racing so im keen on the low 1st

You should be able to go 90 or 180 degrees past TDC and see the flywheel gap at the appropriate location- looking from the bottom of the engine. TDC is gap at starter so....do some figurin' and check if you put it on correctly.

SEslayer said:

So i bought a timing light. Sure enough its flashing at Bout 12-15 past tdc.
Looks like im that 5% wrong and ballsed up my flywheel again somehow.

Click to expand...

you can only mount it in 8 different positions. So each position is another 45 degrees
before removing the gbox and messing with the flywheel again use another method to make sure nr1 is at TDC, do not use the front pulley. You can look at the cam (both cam lobes pointing up.) or poke a stick through the spark plug hole and see when it's at it's highest point= piston at TDC