- Joined
- Oct 21, 2004
- Location
- BFE Desert east of Cali
That's about what mine does as well, without using the IAC. It momentarily drops then picks right back up, acts exactly the same as LH in that aspect.
-
Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software hereThank you for being a part of our community!
Qwkswede's 1992 244 daily driver. Back to my rolling roots.
- Thread starter qwkswede
- Start date
- Joined
- Mar 19, 2003
- Location
- Denver, CO
A few pictures from last weekend's Volvo gathering in Denver.
Qwkswede Sr. drove the gray 244 for most of the weekend.
The red car got all the attention. Which is a good reason to not have a red Volvo.
Qwkswede Sr. drove the gray 244 for most of the weekend.
The red car got all the attention. Which is a good reason to not have a red Volvo.
- Joined
- Jul 27, 2008
- Location
- Dallas, TX
I thought you sold the red sedan?
- Joined
- Mar 19, 2003
- Location
- Denver, CO
That's not my car it belongs to a friend. I just work on it occasionally.
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=310330
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=310330
VQ
Not such a PRVert Anymore
- Joined
- Oct 2, 2005
- Location
- Melbourne, Australia
Im running a 3200 stall with my aw71l with a 4.11 diff in my turbo 740, cruising along its not bad
Around town, it is worse than stock. I had a stock aw71l converter to 2600rpm by holding it longer though.
- Joined
- Dec 25, 2002
- Location
- mont, AL
he did. last I heard, the red car is in Dallas right now
- Joined
- Jul 27, 2008
- Location
- Dallas, TX
That's news to me
- Joined
- Mar 19, 2003
- Location
- Denver, CO
Monthly update.
I need to come up with a better cooling fan solution. The modified 960 fan just doesn't keep the car cool when running 5-10psi boost for 30-45 minutes straight. We have long uphill grades in Colorado. I had the same problem on my last 740 turbo. The engine driven clutch fan solves the problem, and the AC works better too. I didn't have a fan shroud that worked when I installed the intercooler, so I went electric. I think I'll need to work on a shroud. Maybe I can trim the stock one to fit. Other than minor overheating problem the car is running pretty good lately. Racking up some miles.
I need to come up with a better cooling fan solution. The modified 960 fan just doesn't keep the car cool when running 5-10psi boost for 30-45 minutes straight. We have long uphill grades in Colorado. I had the same problem on my last 740 turbo. The engine driven clutch fan solves the problem, and the AC works better too. I didn't have a fan shroud that worked when I installed the intercooler, so I went electric. I think I'll need to work on a shroud. Maybe I can trim the stock one to fit. Other than minor overheating problem the car is running pretty good lately. Racking up some miles.
- Joined
- May 11, 2007
- Location
- Niketown, OR
A Lebaron fan may do the trick.
Redwood Chair
- Stock PSI Or Bust -
- Joined
- Mar 23, 2007
- Location
- Ocean Beach S.F.
- Joined
- May 11, 2007
- Location
- Niketown, OR
Until the clutch wears and you are back to square one.
Kjets On a Plane
Active member
- Joined
- Nov 12, 2002
- Location
- Californicated Oregone
^Twist the spring a little tighter on it to limp home if the clutch is tired. Super easy can be done with a pair of cheap pliers by the side of the road. Done it a bunch of times. Drive around like that until you can find a near new tropical used. The red and early black hub made in japan tropical ones seldom ever leak the fluid out and seem to work nearly indefinitely.
If the fluid is over-sheared, you can just set them up once you split them in half and let them drip dry and replace the fluid on the Aisin fan clutches too though, it's not that hard.
Though it's not like it's that expensive for a new clutch every 20ish years or for some silicon fluid or a JY clutch that's good. No big deal.
The modern T-bird giant fan works kinda OK of the e-fans with a giant enough alternator to keep up with it (that's it's own issue of re-engineering), though nothing ever worked as well as a good tropical and 3-row rad pulling the long hot uphill grades fully loaded to MT at 3-5psi continuous for an hour at a time and so on driving 245 turbos. All the efan turbo cars I pulled apart that actually got used to tow stuff always looked mildly to totally cooked out/hammered. Their mech fan cousins made much better engine/cylinder head donors generally.
Turbo car DD you want the mech fan, good radiator and a decent oil cooler. At least for what's available used/cheap/known to work...this is TB afterall. I'd rather spend the money/effort finding remaking the NPR end tanks like I did in the past with mount brackets to make the IC fit like the stock one but be a better IC rather than try to re-invent/repackage everything else, which when in good repair with best of whats out there (3-row/tropical fan clutch/denso 100A alt), works pretty well/no fuss.
If the fluid is over-sheared, you can just set them up once you split them in half and let them drip dry and replace the fluid on the Aisin fan clutches too though, it's not that hard.
Though it's not like it's that expensive for a new clutch every 20ish years or for some silicon fluid or a JY clutch that's good. No big deal.
The modern T-bird giant fan works kinda OK of the e-fans with a giant enough alternator to keep up with it (that's it's own issue of re-engineering), though nothing ever worked as well as a good tropical and 3-row rad pulling the long hot uphill grades fully loaded to MT at 3-5psi continuous for an hour at a time and so on driving 245 turbos. All the efan turbo cars I pulled apart that actually got used to tow stuff always looked mildly to totally cooked out/hammered. Their mech fan cousins made much better engine/cylinder head donors generally.
Turbo car DD you want the mech fan, good radiator and a decent oil cooler. At least for what's available used/cheap/known to work...this is TB afterall. I'd rather spend the money/effort finding remaking the NPR end tanks like I did in the past with mount brackets to make the IC fit like the stock one but be a better IC rather than try to re-invent/repackage everything else, which when in good repair with best of whats out there (3-row/tropical fan clutch/denso 100A alt), works pretty well/no fuss.
Last edited:
Redwood Chair
- Stock PSI Or Bust -
- Joined
- Mar 23, 2007
- Location
- Ocean Beach S.F.
An heir and a spare it's the English way.
In any case it's better than a cooked engine and warped cylinder head.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Jul 27, 2008
- Location
- Dallas, TX
An heir and a spare it's the English way.
In any case it's better than a cooked engine and warped cylinder head.
You don't keep spare 8v heads on the passenger side of your trunk?
Redwood Chair
- Stock PSI Or Bust -
- Joined
- Mar 23, 2007
- Location
- Ocean Beach S.F.
Why, wanna buy it when your Efan kills yours?
No I don't carry a spare but I do have one even though I won't need it with a nissens 3 row and tropical fan clutch.
- Joined
- Jul 27, 2008
- Location
- Dallas, TX
No I don't carry a spare but I do have one.
I keep two when my 16v head goes kaboom
- Joined
- Mar 19, 2003
- Location
- Denver, CO
I have done a few things since last update.
1. I found a 240turbo fan shroud and installed the engine driven fan again. My cooling problems are fixed! The temp needle never goes above 1/2 way now.
2. I had a bit of a struggle with emissions testing. I had to replace my high flow spun metallic core cat with something that resembles a normal catalytic converter. Even though it was running clean enough, below the limits. They would't pass the visual inspection with the bullet cat. So I upgraded to a 3" downpipe and catalytic converter.
3. I installed the stockish Garrett T3 turbo again. I fixed up a dodge/cosworth style turbine housing to fix my cracked Volvo 5 bolt housing. I welded a Vband flange to the turbine outlet to make it easy to service. Instant spool is nice for this car. Almost ready for winter.
1. I found a 240turbo fan shroud and installed the engine driven fan again. My cooling problems are fixed! The temp needle never goes above 1/2 way now.
2. I had a bit of a struggle with emissions testing. I had to replace my high flow spun metallic core cat with something that resembles a normal catalytic converter. Even though it was running clean enough, below the limits. They would't pass the visual inspection with the bullet cat. So I upgraded to a 3" downpipe and catalytic converter.
3. I installed the stockish Garrett T3 turbo again. I fixed up a dodge/cosworth style turbine housing to fix my cracked Volvo 5 bolt housing. I welded a Vband flange to the turbine outlet to make it easy to service. Instant spool is nice for this car. Almost ready for winter.
Ha! I remember when I installed the spun metal cat on my uncle's ride... even though it passed the test, there were still five guys staring under the car in disbelief. Almost failed me because it didn't look like a "cat".
Looks great as usual Ken!
Looks great as usual Ken!
- Joined
- Mar 19, 2003
- Location
- Denver, CO
2016 update. The car is pretty close to the way I want it now, so not a lot to do. Just drive my cheap transportation and enjoy.
But I have had a little garage time lately so I wired up a boost control solenoid so that I could experiment with the notoriously dodgy Megasquirt closed loop boost control. After alot of experimentation, trying all sorts of different values in the PID tuning, I finally got a decently stable 18psi. Hehe. Yep, 18psi on pump gas PLUS TEE 10:1 compression motor. It seems happy. I'm only running 13 deg advance at that boost. No detonation, no problem.
The neat thing is that I set the boost target table at 200kPa, and I get that more or less. Also, I have the throttle position commanding 180kPa at about 2/3 throttle for a little less boost if I'm not fully engaged. And if you push the pedal farther then you get the full 200kPa. It works! I played with closed loop years ago, and the code wasn't ready for action at that time. But they made some improvements in the last year and now it works great...
But I have had a little garage time lately so I wired up a boost control solenoid so that I could experiment with the notoriously dodgy Megasquirt closed loop boost control. After alot of experimentation, trying all sorts of different values in the PID tuning, I finally got a decently stable 18psi. Hehe. Yep, 18psi on pump gas PLUS TEE 10:1 compression motor. It seems happy. I'm only running 13 deg advance at that boost. No detonation, no problem.
The neat thing is that I set the boost target table at 200kPa, and I get that more or less. Also, I have the throttle position commanding 180kPa at about 2/3 throttle for a little less boost if I'm not fully engaged. And if you push the pedal farther then you get the full 200kPa. It works! I played with closed loop years ago, and the code wasn't ready for action at that time. But they made some improvements in the last year and now it works great...
- Joined
- Mar 19, 2003
- Location
- Denver, CO
A little test tonight to show where I am for 0-60 stoplight racing.
Compared to the 0-60 times when the car was stock, a little over a year ago.
Compared to the 0-60 times when the car was stock, a little over a year ago.