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Old 05-18-2018, 01:49 PM   #26
Jack
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yup thats the motor thats in mine ...

great research you did there. I take back some things I thought about you.

I will give that a try and see what happens



gasket falls apart when you take the motor off the gear box. Would be nice to find that too, or make some
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Old 05-18-2018, 02:01 PM   #27
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What did you think?

I may be too lazy to do half the things my car needs, and I sure ain't no Volvo expert but I do know a few things about electricity and motors. Hopefully I'm not leading you astray on anything - this is all armchair research since I have a lot of downtime right now.

I would also check the commutator (copper contact area on the rotor) while you have it apart. If there's heavy corrosion or soot buildup, a quick polish with emery paper a la a crank polish can help make sure you have good contact.

I'm lazy at heart. Would just put a sheen of RTV on the gasket area to keep water out and call it good.
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Old 05-18-2018, 02:05 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by Kjets On a Plane View Post

This said, the early euro car style console mounted switches are much more logical:
-Keep the master switch wiring from being a wear part/flexing in the driver door hinge area.
-mount switches out of the way of the weather/open window away from moisture or the like as well as vertically to prevent dirt accumulating.
-install in any DL car without having to swap door cards and/or arm rests (just buy the plastic plug for the crank hole).
850s are like that, I wonder if it would be worthwhile to convert to that. Would need a nice way of mounting it....
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Old 05-18-2018, 02:15 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by blkaplan View Post
850s are like that, I wonder if it would be worthwhile to convert to that. Would need a nice way of mounting it....
the 240 early power window kits added the switches to ebrake console and dash center.

i would rather clean the switches once every 20 years than have to replace something like on the 850s... with the cupholder right overhead you get coffee or soda spilling just enough there to make them go bad

850s are the only volvos that had the switches there (?)



I never seen the wiring fail on the 240s it's always the switches - you can even get them new still - or the motors go slow from who knows what. My guess - moisture damage, bad brushes, cracked winding, old grease in gear boxes or on the regulator
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Old 05-18-2018, 02:25 PM   #30
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Convert to later switches as jets suggested and live with what you get or go down the 17¢ / hr rabbit hole.
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Old 05-18-2018, 02:26 PM   #31
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again

switches are fine


again
switches are fine
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Old 05-18-2018, 03:11 PM   #32
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Are the switches fine?
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Old 05-18-2018, 03:15 PM   #33
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Just a few grand and I'm sure we can come up with a complete CNC milled, Arduino-contolled window experience for you and your family to enjoy.
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Old 05-18-2018, 03:20 PM   #34
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I've noticed the main problem being the window guide rubber trim. The felt wears off and adds extra drag. My drivers side has a relatively new piece in it and the window is acceptable in speed. The other three are slow as hell. Silicone spray in the rubber guides helps for a short time.
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Old 05-18-2018, 04:19 PM   #35
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there's this Toyota lube for window guides I use to use when I worked for toyota. It was like $120 per small tube 15 years ago but I dont remember what the name was ... had a funny name if I remember right
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