740: 2 diff versions of inner tie rods ? how to know which one to get ? 86 740 turbo wagon

[alesserfate]

Good day,

I need to change my inner and outer steering tie rods, went in to get parts and apparently there are two different versions of inner tie rods, based on the 'ID' of the steering rack as the parts guy told me. How do I know which ones I need ?

I have a 1986 740 gas turbo automatic trans stationwagon.

Thanks in advance.

[OldGrandpaTune]

Originally Posted by alesserfate

Good day,

I need to change my inner and outer steering tie rods, went in to get parts and apparently there are two different versions of inner tie rods, based on the 'ID' of the steering rack as the parts guy told me. How do I know which ones I need ?

I have a 1986 740 gas turbo automatic trans stationwagon.

Thanks in advance.

Just went through this. Take it off and bring it down so they can measure it.

Spend the extra ten bucks on a Moog. It has lands on the shaft so you can use a wrench to tighten it and is much sturdier. One thing that did happen is that my tires were worn, and had to buy tires to be able to do an alignment afterwards.

[alesserfate]

Originally Posted by Phishnoob

Just went through this. Take it off and bring it down so they can measure it.

Spend the extra ten bucks on a Moog. It has lands on the shaft so you can use a wrench to tighten it and is much sturdier. One thing that did happen is that my tires were worn, and had to buy tires to be able to do an alignment afterwards.

Thanks for your reply. I guess I might have to do that, kind of a hassle since its my only vehicle. If anyone else knows any other way to tell don't hesitate to post here. And yeah my wife hit the curb a little while back and the bad alignment has wrecked my front tires as well.

[OldGrandpaTune]

Originally Posted by alesserfate

Thanks for your reply. I guess I might have to do that, kind of a hassle since its my only vehicle. If anyone else knows any other way to tell don't hesitate to post here. And yeah my wife hit the curb a little while back and the bad alignment has wrecked my front tires as well.

There was no feature on the auto shop print to see which one is right.

If you are going to get an alignment, spend an extra day and replace the ball joints and thrust bushings (spaceship looking and 50 bucks in a kit from IPD with all bushings) if they are bad. My front end feels like a new car now, and that is two days work for an average mechanic. None of it was especially hard.

Just be ready for the alignment shop to require new tires...I was that far out and wasn't planning on that 250 bucks extra.

[Lando]

There are 3 types. The ZF rack has a grommet which the boot seals around that makes it unique. If yours doesn't have the grommet (the boots clamp on the rod) then you have to remove the tie rod and measure the thread diameter that goes into the rack. There are two types, one with 18mm threads and one with 14mm.

I measured mine reinstalled it and then ordered it online. Do not buy anything but the Volvo rod. The rest last no longer than a year.

[alesserfate]

Originally Posted by Lando

There are 3 types. The ZF rack has a grommet which the boot seals around that makes it unique. If yours doesn't have the grommet (the boots clamp on the rod) then you have to remove the tie rod and measure the thread diameter that goes into the rack. There are two types, one with 18mm threads and one with 14mm.

I measured mine reinstalled it and then ordered it online. Do not buy anything but the Volvo rod. The rest last no longer than a year.

Thanks Lando, by the grommet do you mean it will be on the rod itself and i will see the rubber boot clamped over the top of the gromet ?

[vvpete]

Easiest way to tell is not replace the inner rod, but get a reman rack that comes with new inner rods and boots. It is the Volvo reccomended way, do the whole thing, and my experience is that if the rods are gone then the rack is right behind it.
If the car has over 200k this would be a far better way than the cost and work of doing the rods, only to find when you get to the shop for an alignment, you needed the whole rack anyway (has happend to me twice, 20-25 yrs ago, and will never do inner rods only again)

And you'd need to do another alignment even if the rack lasted another 10-20k, so when it comes down to it, if your time is money and the extra costs of parts and alignment, you end up paying about the same as a re-man rack.


Penny wise and pound foolish as they say.

[Lando]

Originally Posted by vvpete

Easiest way to tell is not replace the inner rod, but get a reman rack that comes with new inner rods and boots. It is the Volvo reccomended way, do the whole thing, and my experience is that if the rods are gone then the rack is right behind it.
If the car has over 200k this would be a far better way than the cost and work of doing the rods, only to find when you get to the shop for an alignment, you needed the whole rack anyway (has happend to me twice, 20-25 yrs ago, and will never do inner rods only again)

And you'd need to do another alignment even if the rack lasted another 10-20k, so when it comes down to it, if your time is money and the extra costs of parts and alignment, you end up paying about the same as a re-man rack.


Penny wise and pound foolish as they say.

Pete I usually agree with you, but I would say this is bad advice. All the remanned racks these days come with the cheapest aftermarket rods. Also, I'm not sure I trust the guys at A1Cardone to rebuild it properly. I got my inner rods for cheap from Tasca, and did the alignment myself.

Also, replacing both rods takes all of 30 minutes? Replacing a rack takes a bit longer.

[lummert]

Only adjustment needed after replacing the rack or the tie-rods (inner or outer) is the toe.

[vvpete]

Originally Posted by Lando

Pete I usually agree with you, but I would say this is bad advice. All the remanned racks these days come with the cheapest aftermarket rods. Also, I'm not sure I trust the guys at A1Cardone to rebuild it properly. I got my inner rods for cheap from Tasca, and did the alignment myself.

Also, replacing both rods takes all of 30 minutes? Replacing a rack takes a bit longer.

Yeah a rack takes 1 1/2 hrs. Most pep's don't do their own alignment, although I do and can get it near perfect, but I always do a follow up at a good shop anyway.

I also believe that a lot of people would damage the old rack with the new rods on while trying to do it in the car, hence good advice to take the rack out to hold it in a vise to R&R the rods. You may as well put the reman in and get it done right.

I got my last racks from Swedish Eng and FCP before that. IIRC reman by a company in Michigan, lifetime warranty. 160k mi and 7 yrs later still doing fine for just over $200.

The only thing I've had A1 do was a 140 distributor and they did a good job. I'm sure there are still reputabile shops that reman racks with good parts.

[Lando]

Originally Posted by vvpete

Yeah a rack takes 1 1/2 hrs. Most pep's don't do their own alignment, although I do and can get it near perfect, but I always do a follow up at a good shop anyway.

I also believe that a lot of people would damage the old rack with the new rods on while trying to do it in the car, hence good advice to take the rack out to hold it in a vise to R&R the rods. You may as well put the reman in and get it done right.

I got my last racks from Swedish Eng and FCP before that. IIRC reman by a company in Michigan, lifetime warranty. 160k mi and 7 yrs later still doing fine for just over $200.

The only thing I've had A1 do was a 140 distributor and they did a good job. I'm sure there are still reputabile shops that reman racks with good parts.

You mean to tell me that most DIYers dont have access to a hunter photo alignment machine?

[vvpete]

Originally Posted by Lando

You mean to tell me that most DIYers dont have access to a hunter photo alignment machine?

Wish I did. My alignment tool comes from Home Depot tool section, a tape measure.

[Lando]

Originally Posted by vvpete

Wish I did. My alignment tool comes from Home Depot tool section, a tape measure.

No kite string alignment?

[vvpete]

No, two boards (26 x 26" 3/4 plywood, cutout at the bottom to clear tire buldge) against the wheels standing up, easy to measure the front to back, top to bot difference within a 32.