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Old 04-29-2013, 07:29 PM   #126
Hodginsa
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I'm trying!
Still don't have a Co-op anywhere so maybe Ill just be terribly broke and go to a bunch of car shows/concerts all summer. Tour around with the Volvo.
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Old 05-14-2013, 08:06 PM   #127
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Whats your plan for wastegate?
...







Best place I could think of putting it, plenty of room for a downpipe too. Its tacked to the manifold runner so its on there really good. Tomorrow picking up some silicone couplers in the states and a vacuum hose kit, and should be very very close to closing the hood and opening a laptop.

Anyone know if its fine to put caps on my oil cooler sandwich plate if I plan on not running one right away? I have one mounted but no lines and I want to make the mounting better. The caps would just be on the AN fittings I have on my sandwich plate.
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Old 05-15-2013, 07:29 AM   #128
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Maybe you should brace it to runner #4 too. I'm not sure the weld are going to hold long like that!
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Old 05-15-2013, 10:11 AM   #129
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It'll be fine. I didn't do the welds haha

Well see! I'm just running a dump for now but it will be tied into the system in the near future also.

If anything it will be the ****ty obx manifold to go first.
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Old 05-15-2013, 01:57 PM   #130
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How's progress? Going to make it to Carlisle? (Did I miss something?)
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Old 05-15-2013, 03:34 PM   #131
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Nah didn't miss anything... I'm trying but I'm waiting on some silicone couplers from the states, getting them tomorrow. I don't know if it will be tuned well enough (<1 day) to go. I wish I had a car trailer.

I'm just working on the exhaust right now.
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Old 05-16-2013, 12:04 AM   #132
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Well this was going to be a good post!

Finished downpipe for my awesome turbo!





First welds using gas on my Hobart. Man! I had no idea what a controlled weld was.

Screamer pipe, yeah.. I know, but I figured I would for awhile.



Oh and!

My freaking awesome new turbo isn't so awesome or new. No Carlisle for this car.



Long story short, never checked out the turbine housing until now(don't ask why). Turbo looks fresh from the outside but not so much on the inside. I got screwed, so I'm looking for the guy but its not promising since it was so long ago. This is what happens when you rush a build!
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Old 05-22-2013, 09:09 PM   #133
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Started it up today!



Made a NA exhaust for the time being since my friend gave me 2.5 cars worth of random mandrel bend 3" exhaust pieces. Still too loud, need to make a cheap one tomorrow to leave it running and tune. Shooting flames onto the floor isn't a good idea.
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Old 05-25-2013, 09:05 PM   #134
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Old 05-26-2013, 09:30 AM   #135
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Hey Hodginsa, is that the OBX manifold? I just did my WG port as well, I did mine in the front though... let me know your thoughts on it in general, I'm still a little ways out from getting mine on. Flange is flipped already, but I'm just lazy as hell.


Looks good btw!
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Old 05-26-2013, 10:17 AM   #136
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I have yet to mock up and decided on WG placement on my flipped OBX manifold...nice to see that fits pretty well, may go that route on mine.

Mine came from a 740 and had this front WG pipe that won't work in a 240 w/o modifiying
http://www.pbase.com/towerymt/image/149233964

My old OBX that I never used, sold to beepee. Some pics in a 240:
http://www.pbase.com/towerymt/obx&page=all
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Old 05-26-2013, 10:22 AM   #137
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I did mine the way you 740 one is done. Except I left it short for now until I get it into the car and I can figure out where it should go.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.n...38567440_n.jpg


hopefully it works on a 240
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Old 05-26-2013, 02:48 PM   #138
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 550 View Post
Hey Hodginsa, is that the OBX manifold? I just did my WG port as well, I did mine in the front though... let me know your thoughts on it in general, I'm still a little ways out from getting mine on. Flange is flipped already, but I'm just lazy as hell.


Looks good btw!
It seems okay for so cheap! Just hate that you can't install studs in it since the holes are already opened to M10, though I may use stepped M12 to M10 studs.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 550 View Post
I did mine the way you 740 one is done. Except I left it short for now until I get it into the car and I can figure out where it should go.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.n...38567440_n.jpg


hopefully it works on a 240
I was going to go forward and just dump it. But my turbo compressor outlet was right in the way, combine that with the oil drain in the same area I decided to go the back route. I didn't think it could be done very easily at first but I had a pro at MBRP do the hole and confirmed that it would be fine. I just handed it to a welder and said "this pipe goes on this hole and gets tacked to this runner" out of luck it turned out perfect, didn't even need to use a hammer on the strut tower.
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Old 05-27-2013, 01:19 AM   #139
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Do you have that wagon parts car still? If so, what's left of it?
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Old 05-27-2013, 09:23 AM   #140
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hodginsa View Post
It seems okay for so cheap! Just hate that you can't install studs in it since the holes are already opened to M10, though I may use stepped M12 to M10 studs.



I was going to go forward and just dump it. But my turbo compressor outlet was right in the way, combine that with the oil drain in the same area I decided to go the back route. I didn't think it could be done very easily at first but I had a pro at MBRP do the hole and confirmed that it would be fine. I just handed it to a welder and said "this pipe goes on this hole and gets tacked to this runner" out of luck it turned out perfect, didn't even need to use a hammer on the strut tower.
Yeah the holes are doofy large, what about spacers? I wonder if you can get a spacer to go in a few of them to kind of snug things up.
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Old 06-07-2013, 07:42 AM   #141
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Don't really need spacers, but like I was saying you could tap it for M12 if you had a good enough tap for the stainless. Its pretty straight once you get all 4 bolts in.

I'm in Ohio again working at Honda, so the project is on hold yet again...
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Old 06-07-2013, 08:01 AM   #142
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Is it enough space to put M10 threaded rod trough the flange and weld them in place on the bottom? Then you should have some nice studs.
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Old 06-07-2013, 08:29 AM   #143
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Is it enough space to put M10 threaded rod trough the flange and weld them in place on the bottom? Then you should have some nice studs.
While I like that idea, I fear what happens when the nuts seize on those studs. It could turn into a huge PITA. Would be better off heli-coiling the holes at that point.
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Old 09-06-2013, 09:31 PM   #144
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Goodies and Gauges

New turbo ish!


Finally got the oil lines the way I want them.


I decided to not fork out $90 for a AFR gauge for my LC-1 and made one with some parts I had kicking around.




Its running off an Arduino, and later I can other things like GPS speedometer and such things that I've been working on. I have so many of these kicking around..
It just takes a analog 0-5v signal and changes it to whatever I need output, in this case just 10-20AFR

The black piece is the gauge block off plate in a 240.
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Old 09-06-2013, 10:41 PM   #145
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Slick! And that bay is looking good... How goes the body work?
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Old 09-07-2013, 12:19 PM   #146
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That is exactly what I've wanted to do for a wideband for years. Never had a project that's needed afr's monitored though. Sweet setup.
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Old 09-08-2013, 08:57 PM   #147
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Slick! And that bay is looking good... How goes the body work?
Sorry dude, As I got further into it, it became a realization that it was way to rotted for even me to deem safe. I had to find another shell, really didn't want to though. Things like the trans supports were just done, stuff that would have been a nightmare to fix.

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That is exactly what I've wanted to do for a wideband for years. Never had a project that's needed afr's monitored though. Sweet setup.
Yeah, its not working though! I think my LC-1 just sucks. I set the second output correct but its only giving out 2.4-2.5V no matter what the actual AFR is. The one going to the MS works though. May have to get a new wideband.

Did some awesome PO undoing today, as well as removed the accumulator since I have a real FPR now and no K-jet. Anyone who things you need a accumulator for an EFI car when using the k-jet pump is lying to themselves. Look at that awesome plumbing job! Secret fuel cut, never steal the car!






Sleeper mode activated!













For some reason my oil gauge pegs, could it be a busted sender? or lack of ground? The dummy light works.

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Old 09-08-2013, 11:20 PM   #148
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Oil feed nearly touching WG pipe? That things gonna glow.
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Old 09-08-2013, 11:26 PM   #149
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It's so beat
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Old 09-09-2013, 12:36 AM   #150
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Oil feed nearly touching WG pipe? That things gonna glow.
It has some clearance to the manifold and WG pipe, but it will bounce around and possibly touch. It was something I was going to ask about, it has about 1cm clearance, think that's good? I need to make a small attachment there to hold it still. I have some extra -4AN line so I could make a new one that's longer and follow the contour of the turbine housing. I may do that now that you've worried me haha
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