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Old 05-14-2014, 01:05 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by propav8r View Post
Really? Mine will be CNC'd because that's what's currently available to me. I'm in contact with a guy in town here who's opening a waterjet shop, so I may have the ability to crank some of these out as well.
Ideally water jet for the outside and inside profile, CNC mill or even a manual lathe for the "step" to register the bell housing.

Now that I think about it, I bet one could use a flat plate and use dowel pins in a radial pattern to locate the bell housing, Once the bolts are tightened up the bell housing isn't going to move. Use larger diameter dowels for a larger tangent mating.
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Old 05-14-2014, 01:07 PM   #27
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Tonight if I wanted to stay up until midnight after I put the girls to sleep!

I'm sure there are more things I need for my car and we can some some trading.


If there is no opposition, I could create a drawing (pdf) and upload the CAD files in a few different formats.
I got the goods you soon will have to goods - sounds good to me

but is your 242 running?
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Old 05-14-2014, 01:12 PM   #28
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I got the good you soon will have to goods - sounds good to me

but is your 242 running?
Heck, the motor is still sitting in the garage!
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Old 05-14-2014, 01:19 PM   #29
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did it try to roll away like the chassis ?
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Old 05-14-2014, 02:11 PM   #30
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Now that I think about it, I bet one could use a flat plate and use dowel pins in a radial pattern to locate the bell housing, Once the bolts are tightened up the bell housing isn't going to move. Use larger diameter dowels for a larger tangent mating.
That's how Chris' worked. I can't find the thread at the moment but it was basically a much thinner piece of material and used dowel pins to align it.
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Old 05-14-2014, 02:41 PM   #31
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Wait. T-5 to T5? You can't do that. That's like against the rules.
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Old 05-14-2014, 09:52 PM   #32
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looking good! I've been slacking so hard on these.
I am still hoping you, or someone makes one. And an oil pan or cross member to fit the brick oil pan from the T5 engine.
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Old 05-14-2014, 10:04 PM   #33
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Wait. T-5 to T5? You can't do that. That's like against the rules.
thats like docking, right?
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Old 05-14-2014, 10:47 PM   #34
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I am still hoping you, or someone makes one. And an oil pan or cross member to fit the brick oil pan from the T5 engine.
Why? It's terrible. Unless you like starving oil under hard lateral forces (turning left in fwd so braking in rwd).
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Old 05-14-2014, 11:07 PM   #35
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I am still hoping you, or someone makes one. And an oil pan or cross member to fit the brick oil pan from the T5 engine.
If shortening the oil pan is your biggest hurdle you really need to re-think even doing a 5 cylinder swap. It's a trivial part of the swap in the grand scheme of things.

As doug mentioned, the stock 5 cylinder FWD pan is not very good anyway.
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Old 05-15-2014, 02:04 AM   #36
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If there is no opposition, I could create a drawing (pdf) and upload the CAD files in a few different formats.
I could use the bell housing pattern. I'm doing a getrag adapter plate and I already have the getrag pattern. I can measure it myself but if you're offering I'd appreciate it.
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Old 05-15-2014, 02:54 AM   #37
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Originally Posted by LloydDobler View Post
I could use the bell housing pattern. I'm doing a getrag adapter plate and I already have the getrag pattern. I can measure it myself but if you're offering I'd appreciate it.
Angled,


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Old 05-15-2014, 09:16 AM   #38
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Isn't the internet grand ;)

Thanks for sharing that Johann!
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Old 05-15-2014, 09:16 AM   #39
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Isn't the internet grand ;)

Thanks for sharing that Johann!
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Old 05-17-2014, 12:55 AM   #40
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WORKED AMAZING



Thanks again Mike!!!
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Old 05-17-2014, 08:43 AM   #41
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What clutch and flywheel are you going to be using?
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Old 05-17-2014, 08:49 AM   #42
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What clutch and flywheel are you going to be using?
850 flywheel (single mass). Haven't completely decided on the clutch yet but likely a Sachs 707 and someones disc with T5 splines.

My only concern is the pedal effort. The 850R clutch could be a little tiresome in traffic. Course with the hydraulic clutch I could play with a different master cylinder bore to help offset it.

The 850R clutch in my old t5r seemed to be holding up to 450ft/lbs ok but that was FWD. It spent majority of it's life roasting the tires into third gear.
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Old 05-17-2014, 09:34 AM   #43
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No problem, fun project to work on.....how much thinner or thicker of a plate (not including the large round step for the bellhousing) do you think they could be made?
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Old 05-17-2014, 11:37 AM   #44
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No problem, fun project to work on.....how much thinner or thicker of a plate (not including the large round step for the bellhousing) do you think they could be made?
I'm not sure quite yet. I actually am about 1mm from getting the bellhousing tight to the block. I'm not sure if the pilot is jammed against the bushing that's still in the crank (I didn't have a tool to pull it) or the bolts I got just ran out of thread (they weren't full threaded).

It's close enough for now to do what I need. I'm pretty sure it's just the bushing in the crank (it's stepped so it must be hitting where it necks down the furthest point into the crank).

BTW you get my email about the ID of the bearing retainer hole? Looks like that one I sent you was smaller than a genuine ford. Wasn't a big issue on my end, I just pulled the retainer, stuck a large extension thru it then "lathed" it against the grinder wheel (which is so worn out it went nice and slow).
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Old 06-04-2014, 01:09 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by Hank Scorpio View Post
I'm not sure quite yet. I actually am about 1mm from getting the bellhousing tight to the block. I'm not sure if the pilot is jammed against the bushing that's still in the crank (I didn't have a tool to pull it) or the bolts I got just ran out of thread (they weren't full threaded).

It's close enough for now to do what I need. I'm pretty sure it's just the bushing in the crank (it's stepped so it must be hitting where it necks down the furthest point into the crank).

BTW you get my email about the ID of the bearing retainer hole? Looks like that one I sent you was smaller than a genuine ford. Wasn't a big issue on my end, I just pulled the retainer, stuck a large extension thru it then "lathed" it against the grinder wheel (which is so worn out it went nice and slow).

Any update on this?

Yes, I got the email, I have a new cast steel one that I'll measure and adjust accordingly.

As for making more of these, my local metal supplier (recycling center ) has some plates laying around, however a few issues.

Plate 1,

3/4" thick, 20"x24", not sure if too thin to use if I remove about .100" off the thickness for the bell housing registration hole ( 214,00 ) .....or do the dowel pin method or machine a pieces and bolt them on that have a radius that matches the 214,00 feature and retain the .750" thickness.

Cost of material would be $114 (including $9 sales tax)
$3 per pound, .0975x.75x20x24=35.1 pounds
I could get 4 adapters from this, so $28 in materials per adapter, not too bad and something I could afford to do and sit on an adapter or 2 (I figure $75 to $85 labor/machine time per adapter, start to finish, including buying the material, cutting and shipping, 2 hours labor give or take )

Plate 2.

1" thick, 34"x72"...238.68 pounds! So that would cost me $777 in materials...not going to happen since I'd have to sell 6 adapters at $130 to break even!

Enough rambling


I'll have to look into some other material resources, I wish I still traveled to San Jose, they have some good places for material and will cut them as well, the place near my place will only cut the steel and not aluminum.
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Old 06-04-2014, 01:14 PM   #46
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Not much to update other than it fit great!

Actually, so it looks like the RN crank might be different in the pilot bearing end of it than the earlier crank which might explain why I'm about 1mm too long on the input shaft. I think I'd be careful going down to 3/4".

Like I said, might not be an issue with the first gen whiteblocks. I could loosen the transmission from the bellhousing and see if the bellhousing will draw down the last 1mm. Could be a couple reasons for this (amongst other things, not actually having the original bellhousing bolts, just Lowes' specials LOL).
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Old 06-04-2014, 01:26 PM   #47
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Not much to update other than it fit great!

Actually, so it looks like the RN crank might be different in the pilot bearing end of it than the earlier crank which might explain why I'm about 1mm too long on the input shaft. I think I'd be careful going down to 3/4".

Like I said, might not be an issue with the first gen whiteblocks. I could loosen the transmission from the bellhousing and see if the bellhousing will draw down the last 1mm. Could be a couple reasons for this (amongst other things, not actually having the original bellhousing bolts, just Lowes' specials LOL).
Yea, I noticed you sinned and used SAE threads for that and not metric!
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Old 06-04-2014, 02:05 PM   #48
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Yea, I noticed you sinned and used SAE threads for that and not metric!
They ARE metric but they are only threaded so far. I couldn't quite get the right size so it's very possible that I'm on the shoulder of the bolt before getting the bellhousing tight.

But I *doubt* it, I would think if that was the case I'd be able to wobble the trans/bellhousing and it's tight as can be. I'm 99% sure it's got the input shaft tight into the end of the crank.

Honestly, if I was using this bottom end I'd just have the machine shop mill it out a bit.

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Old 06-04-2014, 03:38 PM   #49
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My bad...I thought I tried an M12-1.75 and it wouldn't thread in all the way so I just assumed it was SAE and I really didn't care too much since I knew what I was going to use for the other 4 holes I drilled and tapped.
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Old 06-05-2014, 09:45 PM   #50
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I need a t5 to t5 adapter plate. How much are they and where do i order? Also what bell housing do i need for this?
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