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240 balljoint orientation

turbochimp

Member
Joined
Nov 2, 2011
I did ball joints on a 93 240 (w/ps) and it altered the handling significantly - floaty & wandering steering plus viscous side-jumping over bumps.

Just to confirm that I didn't have a stroke while installing - the offset on the ball-end of this part should point forward - correct? They were 2 different brands but I don't see why that would matter.

Has anyone experienced this type of result after doing balljoints? I don't want to align if I have done something incorrectly somehow.

Thanks!
 
Yes, the offset should move the pivot forward of the "front axle", so to speak.

I wouldn't expect ball joints to alter the alignment significantly, but it's not going to be exactly the same as it was before. There's a little bit of slop in the holes where it's bolted up to the control arm, so I always pull out on the bottom of the wheel when tightening the ball joints down. Gives the maximum negative camber, although it's not much.

FYI...
If power steering ball joints are installed on opposite sides with the angled part pointing backwards, that would reduce caster and the car would not want to track straight as much as if they are pointed forward as intended. The extreme example of caster in one direction is a bicycle front wheel that resists turning and wants to go straight. The opposite is a rear wheel on a shopping cart that does not want to track straight, but turns off center very easily.

In my experience, a little bit of toe-out will make the car feel shifty/darty, because each front wheel is pointed away from the other. It wants to go in two directions at once.

I will do my own alignment to set toe. Get a couple of long boards and press them up against the front tires, above the bottom of the tire where it bulges out, so maybe ~6" up from the ground. Use a spare wheel/tire or a concrete block or something heavy wedged/leaned against the board to hold it against the tire. Then measure across the front of the wheel and across behind the wheel and compare. If I can get it so that the measurement across the front is 1/8" less than across the rear, I'm comfortable that I've got slight toe-in, and the car will track straight. If you end up adjusting the inner tie rods to set toe, try to adjust both sides to keep the steering wheel straight.

If you drive on the highway for a while (~15min or longer), then stop and immediately feel the front tires, the inside edge will feel warmer if you've got a lot of toe-out. Assuming stock height, stock alignment 240, the camber will be close to zero, so additional tire temp on the edge after driving mostly straight at speed will come from toe, assuming properly inflated tires. I'm not going to claim that this will prove anything, but I will often use it as additional information if I suspect an alignment issue on my car. I can feel toe-out while driving, so the tire temp test will confirm my suspicions.
 
Are they seated in their holders?

Not sure what you mean by holders? Do you mean the bottom of the strut tube?

towery said:
Yes, the offset should move the pivot forward of the "front axle", so to speak.

I wouldn't expect ball joints to alter the alignment significantly, but it's not going to be exactly the same as it was before. There's a little bit of slop in the holes where it's bolted up to the control arm, so I always pull out on the bottom of the wheel when tightening the ball joints down. Gives the maximum negative camber, although it's not much.

FYI...
If power steering ball joints are installed on opposite sides with the angled part pointing backwards, that would reduce caster and the car would not want to track straight as much as if they are pointed forward as intended. The extreme example of caster in one direction is a bicycle front wheel that resists turning and wants to go straight. The opposite is a rear wheel on a shopping cart that does not want to track straight, but turns off center very easily.

In my experience, a little bit of toe-out will make the car feel shifty/darty, because each front wheel is pointed away from the other. It wants to go in two directions at once.

I will do my own alignment to set toe. Get a couple of long boards and press them up against the front tires, above the bottom of the tire where it bulges out, so maybe ~6" up from the ground. Use a spare wheel/tire or a concrete block or something heavy wedged/leaned against the board to hold it against the tire. Then measure across the front of the wheel and across behind the wheel and compare. If I can get it so that the measurement across the front is 1/8" less than across the rear, I'm comfortable that I've got slight toe-in, and the car will track straight. If you end up adjusting the inner tie rods to set toe, try to adjust both sides to keep the steering wheel straight.

If you drive on the highway for a while (~15min or longer), then stop and immediately feel the front tires, the inside edge will feel warmer if you've got a lot of toe-out. Assuming stock height, stock alignment 240, the camber will be close to zero, so additional tire temp on the edge after driving mostly straight at speed will come from toe, assuming properly inflated tires. I'm not going to claim that this will prove anything, but I will often use it as additional information if I suspect an alignment issue on my car. I can feel toe-out while driving, so the tire temp test will confirm my suspicions.

Thanks for this info! TBH, I do not drive this car on a regular basis so part of the weirdness may be that I'm not used to it. Still, the handling is objectively sketchy
 
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