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V8Volvos.com LS Motor Mounts are here!!!!

kendogg

V8 Guy
Joined
Jan 4, 2010
Location
Atlanta, GA
First off - Mods, if this is in any way a violation of terms of service or any other rules, please immediately delete and please send me a PM.


The moment everybody has been waiting for, the arrival of the official V8Volvos.com 700/900 series motor mount kit! These mounts are not hodge-podged pieced together, fabricated mounts from arbitrary parts – they were designed & engineered from day one specifically for use in this car, with any LS based engine (car OR truck). They allow for clearance not only at the hood from both the truck intake manifold and alternator, but also on the passengers side for the stock a/c compressor, and in the front for use of the stock Volvo 960 larger radiator & electric fan (depending on transmission used and how far forward that pushes the engine, of course). They’re slotted left and right to allow for precise chassis fitment (since honestly there are so many different transmission, header, and accessory combinations, there are endless ways people will want to use these mounts to locate their engine). They were also designed to keep the engine as low and as far back as possible in order to help keep CG as low as possible for those of you using either automatic or short manual transmissions. They’ve also been designed to adapt to the longer T56 6 speed transmission that so many people use. Unfortunately however, the T56 is a long transmission and does put the engine a bit farther froward in order to line the shifter up correctly with the shifter hole in the car.

The V8Volvos.com kit uses BMW motor mount bushings for a variety of reasons. One of the biggest reasons is that the design of the V8Volvos.com kit mimics that of a stock European (BMW, Volvo, etc.) motor mount design, whereas the arm is attached rigidly to the engine, and then the engine assembly sits on top of the OEM rubber isolator. The BMW bushings were designed exactly for this purpose, and have been long tested to withstand the abuse of high-hp engine loads. They’re inexpensive, reliable, and replaceable. There is reasonable aftermarket support for purchasing replacement bushings later on, or upgrading to something of ‘higher performance’. And in case of an accident, they can shear and still allow the engine to submarine under the vehicle instead of being pushed directly into the firewall like the original factory Volvo mounts. We recommend the OEM rubber for most installations.

We can also upgrade your mounts to use polyurethane bushings from for an additional $40. We’ve teamed with a manufacturer that is building nice isolated polyurethane bushings for us, meaning we do NOT use or recommend the bolt-thru style of polyurethane engine mount bushing. However, the kit was designed with the aforementioned bushings in mind, so we cannot guarantee fitment with another vendors bushing. Any replacement parts are available on an as-needed basis. Pre-order prices INCLUDE shipping to the continental US. For international orders, please email ken@v8volvos.com for a shipping quote.

Whats included:
(2) V8Volvos.com motor mount arms
(2) OEM Sach’s BMW E36/E46 M3 motor mount bushings, or (2) Polyurethane BMW E36/E46 M3 motor mount bushings.
All necessary installation hardware


Pricing:
Standard V8Volvos.com Motor Mount Kit w/OEM BMW M3 mount bushings – $349.99 – Pre-Order price of $319.99

Upgraded V8Volvos.com Motor Mount Kit w/polyurethane M3 mount bushings – $389 – Pre-Order price of $359

Send all paypal payments to ken@v8volvos.com. Please indicate in the notes what isolator option you’re choosing, or if you’re ordering more than 1 set of mounts. We’re working on getting e-commerce setup to be able to purchase directly from the site within the next 1-2 weeks. Thanks, and as always, if there are any questions – please post in the forum, or email ken@v8volvos.com directly!

http://www.v8volvos.com/store/volvo-ls-motor-mount-kit/
 
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Are these bolt in or welded? Are they the same for all 700/900 all years? With a T56 in a 95 up 960 will the stock radiator & electric fan still fit?
 
Are these bolt in or welded? Are they the same for all 700/900 all years? With a T56 in a 95 up 960 will the stock radiator & electric fan still fit?

They are bolt-in. Same for all 700/900 series cars. Unfortunately, the T56 is so long, it requires moving the motor forward a bit, and I cannot guarantee what radiator or fan combo will fit. Probably also depends on what accessory setup you're running as well. They were designed with the truck intake and accessories, so basically the setup that will protrude the most in any direction. Some of the car setups may fit? I don't know unfortunately, I don't own a T-56, the development car had an auto trans in it.
 
Dumb question -
This is for an existing 8-valve redblock crossmember? A 16v car or inline-6 960 won't work?
I just bought a 97 960 and want more powerrrrr.
 
I've had a good bit of interest in 240 parts. However - don't have one! And realistically, there's no enough profit in this for me to go buy a car just to build the mounts. If somebody wants to bring me a car, we'll gladly build the kit and compensate owner of the car one one form or another. A member on v8volvos.com has expressed interest in building them, so lets see where that goes!


And it's odd though, that the ones you listed ONLY bolt into 8v cars? Something doesn't seem right there. Not to mention they look like solid mounts, please correct me if I'm wrong? The JTR kit appears that it was developed in an 8V car, and it bolted onto my '95 960's subframe without issues.
 
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seems odd they would bolt in 8v and 16v considering the have diffrent crosmembers.. can you post pics of yours?
also his are not solid, looks to me they use ls mounts. theres no way your 8v kit will bolt in a 16v subframed car as they are diffrent unless you have pics of these mounts?
 
seems odd they would bolt in 8v and 16v considering the have diffrent crosmembers.. can you post pics of yours?

I'll hopefully have pictures next week, I haven't been able to get to the shop in a few weeks. I have a cad drawing, and a single picture of the prototype arm I can post, 1 second. As far as I'm aware, if they aren't finished at the steel shop, they're at or on their way to the powdercoater.


www-v8volvos-com-ls-motor-mount-prototype1.jpg


www-v8volvos-com-ls-motor-mount-cad.jpg



And here is the JTR page showing a few different cars, all using the same kit - which is the same kit that bolted onto my 960 subframe. '85 740 would be an 8V car, right??
http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Volvo_700_V-8.html
 
just to make you aware. JTR is only chevy 350 stuff...


Doesn't make any difference when referring to the way it attaches to the subframe. And yes, I'm fully aware of that - I own their kit, used it with a set of LS adapter plates, and realized how poorly it fits with an LS, hence why I've developed this kit.
 
well if your not going to bother realizing there is a diffrence in the crossmembers and acutually end up selling to a b234f owner what are you going to tell them?
b234 crosmember
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=232016

he can tell them to cut off the mount for the left hand engine mount. that is the only difference. the cross members are otherwise the same. I helped convert a 940 8v to 16v by welding on the additional mount, and subsequently that mount was cut off again when it was converted back to 8v.
 
Unless the mount locations are narrower, see where those 3 studs are sticking up? Thats where the factory motor mount attaches. Mine will fit wonderfully :)

The CM's are different for the 16v engine cars, one mount is on the CM and the other is on the engine, unlike on the 8v CM's where both mount are bloted on to it. Yes, but what about the other side?? Only on one side though.
 
Looks like a nice product!

760 V6 crossmembers are different again, they have two small pieces which can be cut off with a grunder if fitting a 4 cylinder, or these LS mounts.
 
I'm pretty interested in doing an LS-swap in the volvo until I did a cost v.s power comparison. I think for what I'd spend on a power-train and wiring and troubleshooting I'd just invest that same amount of cash into my 8v and make more power with less weight. I guess if I ever inherit a wrecked z28 or something I'll think about it more but for now I'm going to pass.
 
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