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Old 10-23-2018, 12:37 AM   #2251
brendon_ak
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What did you do to the B21ft before tossing it in?
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Old 10-23-2018, 08:33 AM   #2252
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My oil pan has leaked by the rear main seal cover ever since I went +T. Have not fixed it yet. Once I have the engine cross member out for shortening I will replace the pan gasket again and hope it doesnít leak. Iím with you on hating leaks for sure.
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Old 10-23-2018, 10:32 AM   #2253
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Are you *sure* it's the RMS?

The front main seal can also leak and let oil run down along the pass side seam between block and oil pan and then collect/drip from the bellhousing area.

I replaced a RMS and oil pan gasket only to realize that the source of oil was really coming from the front of the engine.
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Old 10-23-2018, 10:42 AM   #2254
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Originally Posted by brendon_ak View Post
What did you do to the B21ft before tossing it in?
Degrease, de-carbon valves, head gasket / bolts, t-belt / idler. Why do you ask?
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Old 10-23-2018, 10:44 AM   #2255
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Originally Posted by oldschoolvolvo View Post
Are you *sure* it's the RMS?

The front main seal can also leak and let oil run down along the pass side seam between block and oil pan and then collect/drip from the bellhousing area.

I replaced a RMS and oil pan gasket only to realize that the source of oil was really coming from the front of the engine.
Excellent. I'll take a look. As I say, I thought it was the RMS. But now that I have the trans out, I'm not so sure. I'll check the front too.
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Old 10-23-2018, 10:50 AM   #2256
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Think I found a "peg" clutch fork and hardware. May get trans back in this week. Woot!

Pick up the torque arms from the machine shop this afternoon. Took out the squeaky poly bushings and installed IPD rubber.

New turbo drain upper gasket, tube and short bolts in hand. Hoping for the best.

I'm thinking about getting a Corolla with a 2TG.
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Old 10-23-2018, 10:52 AM   #2257
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Originally Posted by MrBrown View Post
My oil pan has leaked by the rear main seal cover ever since I went +T. Have not fixed it yet. Once I have the engine cross member out for shortening I will replace the pan gasket again and hope it doesnít leak. Iím with you on hating leaks for sure.
Shortening?
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Old 10-23-2018, 11:02 AM   #2258
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LC4CARL

Pick up the torque arms from the machine shop this afternoon. Took out the squeaky poly bushings and installed IPD rubber
Are you sure it was the torque rods? Mine do not squeak. Thatís weird. Could be something else...

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Shortening?
Yeah so I can lay the frame out without hitting the crossmember/oil pan on the ground. Because chicks dig you layin frame!
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Old 10-23-2018, 11:45 AM   #2259
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Quote:
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Are you sure it was the torque rods? Mine do not squeak. Thatís weird. Could be something else...



Yeah so I can lay the frame out without hitting the crossmember/oil pan on the ground. Because chicks dig you layin frame!
Pretty sure. Probably just my car.

That's soo cool. First class build. Once I get mine running, let's tear it apart and put her on air.

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Old 10-23-2018, 11:49 AM   #2260
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So much to see here. Does your catch-can go to the OE flame trap or a Yoshi plate? Blue hoses rock! Do you think the plate gives better "draw" on the crank case than the flame trap? And, are you "drawing" from both the valve cover and the crank?
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Old 10-23-2018, 12:46 PM   #2261
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My catch can setup is as follows:

Valve cover = vent
Yoshi fuel pump plate = vent (https://yoshifab.com/store/redblock-...late-vent.html)
welded bung on oil pan = oil drain
pre-turbo hose = vapor recirculation

I added the Yoshi fuel pump vent plate just as a 2nd crankcase vent location. I likely would have been fine with just the valve cover vent, but it was easy enough to add so why not.

FWIW, my B21 block does not have the breather box provisions which is why I set mine up the way I did.

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Old 10-23-2018, 12:56 PM   #2262
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Very nice. I've just capped the drain line on my catch can for now. Have not driven much / nothing drains when I check it. I can see condensation in the clear vent hoses to the can though.

Does that NPR drop in?
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Old 10-23-2018, 01:25 PM   #2263
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Quote:
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Does that NPR drop in?
Sort of.

I put a spacer on the bottom and two small spacers on the top in order to position it vertically. L/R position is pretty well controlled by the radiator (in other words, it doesn't have much room to move left and right). The oil cooler had to lose the top bracket and the piping had to be redone (some have re-used stock items, YMMV).
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Old 10-23-2018, 01:36 PM   #2264
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Carl, if the trans is out now, why not pop the cover off the RMS and change it? Tag a Volvo seal and put it in, that's an evening for ya!
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Old 10-23-2018, 03:35 PM   #2265
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Oh, that would be way too logical for me...

LOL.

I swear I have removed and reset every part on this car at least six times.
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Old 10-23-2018, 04:23 PM   #2266
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Only six?
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My knob has a big chunk of steel on it
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Old 10-23-2018, 05:36 PM   #2267
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On average...

I only did the black hood once. Though I'm giving serious thought to a carbon fiber wrap.




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Old 10-23-2018, 10:12 PM   #2268
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Quote:
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I swear I have removed and reset every part on this car at least six times.
truth
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Old 10-23-2018, 11:22 PM   #2269
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I saw these at a show on June and thought they were cool.





So, I found a guy on eBay overseas that had a pair.





And, voila!


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Old 10-24-2018, 01:04 AM   #2270
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I should have put an LS in it...
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Old 10-24-2018, 03:23 AM   #2271
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That doesn't look terrible? Just some seeping? Is it coming from the rear main or is it coming from up higher? Or is the pic to show that it's the pan gasket?
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Old 10-24-2018, 03:36 AM   #2272
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Valve cover?
Plug if distributor hole at the end of the head?
Pan gasket maybe
RMS, the flywheel seems dry

LS-swap: way to easy

Good luck, Kay
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Old 10-24-2018, 10:13 AM   #2273
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Best I can tell, the rear main is ok. Need to check the front like Old School suggested. Next time I install a 30 year old motor and don't completely reseal it kick me in the jewels...


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Old 10-24-2018, 02:09 PM   #2274
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Told ya to pressure wash it too.
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Old 10-24-2018, 03:02 PM   #2275
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It really doesn't look that bad with regards to how much oil there is, chances are it's coming from somewhere up high on the motor and seeping down the block. Grab some brake clean and a rag and wipe it all down then heat cycle the motor to see if that gets you some better results.
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