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Regina sucks

I

iHateVolvoPeople

Active member
Joined
Feb 1, 2014
Location
Midwest
It?s great when it works

It sucks when it doesn?t

Help


This 91 Regina +t runs really well when it runs. Sometimes though it has a dead misfire on one cylinder (I think cylinder 2 or 3?) Then after turning it off and trying to start it again, it?s a crank no start. If I disconnect the coil wire from the coil and move it away to where the spark will barely jump the gap, then it starts no problem and runs on all 4. If I fully seat the coil wire, the engine dies.

What could cause this?
 
Well if it's ignition related. It is Rex that is your problem not regina. How is the crank sensor? They use the same one as LH. Also check for codes. It may have more information to help you. A bad Map sensor or intake temp sensor can cause wacky problems with this system.
 
dl242gt said:
Well if it's ignition related. It is Rex that is your problem not regina. How is the crank sensor? They use the same one as LH. Also check for codes. It may have more information to help you. A bad Map sensor or intake temp sensor can cause wacky problems with this system.
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Crank sensor is new (not that it means anything). No codes.
chronicrhythm said:
Probably didn't help it by +T'ing it. Could it be a bad coil thats overheating?
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:lol: it was non running due to a bad CPS bracket before I boosted it. I don?t think the coil is overheating since it was on a cold start. It seems to be humidity related to me.



It?s just so weird that a dead misfire turns into a crank no start, but by removing the coil wire from the coil, I can make it start. I?m absolutely lost. I?ve already removed the cap and cleaned it out too.

I just removed the coil from the coil housing (?), cleaned all contact points and reassembled. Still a crank no start.
 
iHateVolvoPeople said:
Crank sensor is new (not that it means anything). No codes.


:lol: it was non running due to a bad CPS bracket before I boosted it. I don?t think the coil is overheating since it was on a cold start. It seems to be humidity related to me.



It?s just so weird that a dead misfire turns into a crank no start, but by removing the coil wire from the coil, I can make it start. I?m absolutely lost. I?ve already removed the cap and cleaned it out too.

I just removed the coil from the coil housing (?), cleaned all contact points and reassembled. Still a crank no start.
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I had a weird issue with my car getting water in the distributor. On a cold start it would get a horrible misfire and die. Then I would start the car again and it would run fine for another 10-15 seconds and then die again. Once it dried out or cleaned up it ran fine again. I always thought if it had moisture in the cap that it just wouldn't start or it would run bad all the time but it proved me wrong so maybe it is something like that?
 
ZVOLV said:
Scope.
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:???:
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iHateVolvoPeople said:
Then after turning it off and trying to start it again, it?s a crank no start.
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Hi welcome to my world.

I'm sorry i can't help, I will be trying to address my issues with a CPS next time I see the car.

I'm just wondering, since you say it works well when it works, what you ended up doing, if anything, for O2 sensor and ECU.
 
rwb said:
Hi welcome to my world.

I'm sorry i can't help, I will be trying to address my issues with a CPS next time I see the car.

I'm just wondering, since you say it works well when it works, what you ended up doing, if anything, for O2 sensor and ECU.
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I was originally running the car open turbo because the downpipe wouldn’t fit with the trans cooler lines in the way. It was only like that for a few days and then i ran 'custom' rubber cooler lines, installed stock downpipe, and threaded the original Regina O2 sensor into the downpipe. So it reads just like a normal NA car now.

Didn’t do anything to the ECU. Just bigger injectors and 2 steps colder plugs and Mobil 93 octane.
 
Last edited:
check the wiring going to the ignition module under the coil, make sure your grounds are good, and your plug wires are good and it's not arcing through something. also, how are the cap and rotor?
 
kyote said:
New Coil and ICU, available same day at your local O'Reilly Auto, with a warranty.
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So the coil is the piece that the coil wire plugs into and is readily available. The ICU, is that the piece that the coil mounts to, or is that the ignition computer inside the cabin?
linuxman51 said:
check the wiring going to the ignition module under the coil, make sure your grounds are good, and your plug wires are good and it's not arcing through something. also, how are the cap and rotor?
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ICU = same as ignition control module? Cap and rotor could surely be replaced but after blowing it out, no reason it would cause a NO start. Will triple check wiring later today, though the car has been starting without issue roughly 90% of the time. I was hoping I had a spare coil wire laying around because i think it’s suspect as well.
 
iHateVolvoPeople said:
So the coil is the piece that the coil wire plugs into and is readily available. The ICU, is that the piece that the coil mounts to, or is that the ignition computer inside the cabin?

ICU = same as ignition control module? Cap and rotor could surely be replaced but after blowing it out, no reason it would cause a NO start. Will triple check wiring later today, though the car has been starting without issue roughly 90% of the time. I was hoping I had a spare coil wire laying around because i think it’s suspect as well.
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the icu is the 'base' that the coil is attached to. 3 wires iirc. probably better called an ignition module.
 
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