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Old 01-26-2019, 07:31 PM   #26
GolfClapperX
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I tried wiring Fuse 6 to fuel relay 30 just for fun, no change in anything.

Now I wonder if it's the blue wire which everyone says is an important ignition power wire. I promise though, my blue wire goes directly to #6 on the cluster round connector, that's exactly how I pulled it. What would happen if I ran the blue wire directly to 12v+ for testing purposes? Which brings me to my next concern, maybe all the poking wires around I've done has damaged the ECU, considering VB242's input from post #17. Although I really have been very careful about that and I don't think I've done anything especially stupid yet. I have my multimeter and diagrams at hand. I have a 94 945t that I could borrow the ECU from, but I don't want to risk damaging that one too so I don't know.

I have kept the intake ground wires separate. And I have checked the MAF wiring a few times but I could check it again.

I did omit the white wire from the splicing on my original 4-pin connector too, it isn't needed, nothing is different.

And the diagnostic port works again, it just says 1-1-1 on both pins (previously thought there were 3 test pins but there are 2)

Last edited by GolfClapperX; 01-26-2019 at 08:02 PM..
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Old 01-26-2019, 07:55 PM   #27
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Bobxyz mentioned in post #15 that I should test the injector pulse with a noid light ("lite"?). Is this the one I need?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/OTC-6266-No...B1e6:rk:4:pf:0
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Old 01-26-2019, 09:33 PM   #28
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Alright, who has an LH 2.2 harness and computers that will work for me and how much do you want?
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Old 01-27-2019, 12:41 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by GolfClapperX View Post
Alright, who has an LH 2.2 harness and computers that will work for me and how much do you want?
Theres a 91 or 92 volvo 240 in the Pick N pul in dallas. I cant remember which one. Its been there for a month I think. I haven't been to it yet. WAs going to grab the abs stuff if it came with it.
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Old 01-27-2019, 10:32 AM   #30
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Theres a 91 or 92 volvo 240 in the Pick N pul in dallas. I cant remember which one. Its been there for a month I think. I haven't been to it yet. WAs going to grab the abs stuff if it came with it.
That would be LH 2.4 though. I've been meaning to go look at that car too. I'm now leaning towards an LH 2.4 conversion harness from Dave Barton. I don't really want to go LH 2.2. May as well spend a bunch of money to make sure everything is perfect under the hood, and then figure out the under dash stuff. If I had more time, I'd definitely just make a factory 240 N/A harness work like everyone else does. I'll try that again on my other '85 that's awaiting the same swap.
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Old 01-27-2019, 10:59 AM   #31
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That would be LH 2.4 though. I've been meaning to go look at that car too. I'm now leaning towards an LH 2.4 conversion harness from Dave Barton. I don't really want to go LH 2.2. May as well spend a bunch of money to make sure everything is perfect under the hood, and then figure out the under dash stuff. If I had more time, I'd definitely just make a factory 240 N/A harness work like everyone else does. I'll try that again on my other '85 that's awaiting the same swap.
Luckily Im rather good friends with Dave these days since he lives just about right where the toll road stops, take a left and bam!!!! His harness is really clean and well done #notanadd. Wish I could help you out but Ive been away from LH for several years now and struggled to get my 16vt running. I would say your best bet is to start with a fresh harness thats been labeled.
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Old 01-27-2019, 02:05 PM   #32
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Well it makes sense that a blue wire goes to the dash cluster since blue is used for power to things like the cluster. However, the blue power wire is also used to power the coil. I ran it from the fuse box at a location that gets switched power. Volvo uses fuse 12 for that on LH2.4 cars. You don't have to use fuse 12 but use a switched fuse for that power source.
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Old 01-27-2019, 06:15 PM   #33
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On my 2.2 to 2.4 conversion I hooked the coil like this, just plugged it in..



Basically you already have the coil power blue wire there at the coil if upgrading from 2.2 to 2.4. This also runs the tach. That red and white wire goes back to the tach. Just plug it in like I did in the center of this pic. LEt me find my other 2.2 to 2.4 upgrade pics. It was real easy. Unplug that plug and car quits running.

For that critical power while cranking one wire in the harness I hooked it to the wire that triggers the starter relay. That is the only wire you hook that wire to. I traced it from the starter to under the dash and then hooked it to that wire. It goes to the ignition switch of course.

The 2.4 harness I used is the older version that has the main 30 amp fuse power lead right at the battery, see it in the pic?
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Last edited by sbabbs; 01-27-2019 at 06:21 PM..
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Old 01-27-2019, 07:42 PM   #34
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First off, don't use the electronic cluster connectors from the '89 with the '85 cluster. The pins are different between the two. Specifically,
- pin 6 of round connector (31/6) is Alternator&AC_Relay on '85 but VSS on '89
- pin 3 of half circle connector (32/3) is the choke light on '85 but CEL on '89

Next, for noid lights, it looks like you found the right one. There's also cheaper ones that should work find (it's just a connector and a lamp, nothing fancy):
https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-2731.../dp/B01MZD76PK
https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-2716.../dp/B004FEHZZU
Overall, I think you're close to having it working. Switching to LH2.2 probably won't help -- you'll still need to figure out the engine harness to cabin connections, and you still need to figure out the injector issue.

Here's what I'd do for the cabin to harness wiring, including just the critical connections plus the O2 heater connection:
0) Unplug your injectors
1) Disconnect the 4-pin thin red/blk wire and measure it (to ground) with a volt meter. Is it 0volts with key off, +12v in run position and +12v while cranking? If so, you've found your ignition switch #15 wire. If not, you'll need to do some searching (or temporarily wire up a switch to provide switched +12v instead).
2) With key off, check that fuse #6 is +12v (direct from battery) and fuse#4 is 0v (fuel pump power).
3) With key on, check that there is +12v at the coil (blue).
4) Find the 2 big red wires in the engine harness and wire them to fuse #6 (you might want to disconnect the battery first since the fuse is live). These are power to the main white relay by the ECU/EZK connectors.
5) Connect the blue wire from the engine harness to the red/blk ignition switch #15 run/start wire in #1). Leave the '89 cluster connector dangling unconnected.
6) Connect the big yel/red wire from the engine harness to the big yel/red wire in the 4-pin connector. This is power from the main relay to the fuel pumps.
7) For the O2 heater, run a wire from fuse #4 to the small yel/red wire in the engine harness. (Optional for initial running, but you'll want this eventually.)
8) That should do it. If there are any leftover wire connections not covered by these steps, remove them for now.
9) Leave the injectors unplugged, plug in the noid light, and crank it briefly. Repeat this a couple times without turning the key off. Still without turning the key off, check for Diag codes. (I don't know if the ECU/EZK will post a code immediately, or if it takes a couple repetitions before posting a code). Also, did the noid light flash during cranking?
10) Report back with what you've found.

For you injectors and r-pack, they should be wired as follows:
- original big grn/wt main harness wire gets split into 4 smaller grn/wt wires, one to each injector. Leave this intact.
- original red/blk main harness wire gets split into 4 red/blk wires, one to each injector. Cut the main wire and heat shrink, or tape, the stub.
- splice 4 long wires onto each of the 4 red/blk injector wires. Run these to the outer 4 pins of the 6-pin (2x3) r-pack connector. It doesn't matter what order.
- splice a power wire (blue if you have it) from the center pin on the r-pack connector (only 1 of the 2 should have a connector tab in it) to +12v on the coil (blue).

Hope this helps. If any of this isn't clear, or you found some typos, please ask first.

Edit: One more thought - double check that you have the blue wire and not the blue-black wire. If dirty and poorly lit, they can fool you.

Last edited by bobxyz; 01-27-2019 at 10:21 PM..
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Old 01-27-2019, 09:14 PM   #35
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Thanks for the help everyone, this is really good information. I really want to go out in the cold/dark and look into this stuff right now but I know I'll regret it when the alarm goes off at 4:30AM for work. Might do it anyway. Nothing Red Bull can't fix, right?
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Old 01-27-2019, 11:22 PM   #36
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Use the red bull tomorrow. Not to stay up on a school night. lol
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Old 01-28-2019, 12:01 AM   #37
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Right! Good point.
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Old 01-28-2019, 07:37 AM   #38
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blown injector drivers
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Old 01-28-2019, 09:23 PM   #39
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blown injector drivers
Alright, I still haven't gotten back to it because I worked too much today. But I wouldn't doubt blown injector drivers at this point. I was pretty disturbed to find that these ECU's go for $140 on Ebay. Anyone ever repaired their injector drivers? I think I can handle some precision soldering.
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Old 03-03-2019, 07:35 PM   #40
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Just an update: I got back to this project this weekend and got nowhere. I decided to set my pride aside and buy what I had hoped would be the simplest solution, an LH 2.4 conversion harness from Dave Barton. The harness is beautiful and I kind of wanted to take it to bed and cuddle with it, but I decided to install it on the car. So the whole engine compartment side of the harness was perfectly simple plug and play. The under dash part is still a mystery. Five wires in the new harness were not the same color they were supposed to be according to the included diagram. However, I think I figured that part out. Once I traced the blue wire from pin 30 in the ECU and ran it to a 12v switched source, everything powered up like before. BUT behold, my symptoms are 100% identical now to what they were with the last harness. It starts, dies, floods terribly. Gas was coming out of the downpipe at about the rate that an electric carburetor pump would pump fuel. Now with the new harness I have triple-checked to make sure no connectors are misplaced, like the ECT connector, but it's all in the correct spot.

Now I need to go back and pour over you guys' advice from the last several posts again. This is basically just an update to a project I find unbelievably annoying...

But I do wonder if the injector drivers in my ECU are indeed dead. That's one thing I need to do is go get the ECU off of one of my 940t's in storage and find out.
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Old 03-03-2019, 07:53 PM   #41
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Wish you well with figuring it out. I'm sure the guys covered what you need to check to prove out a bad ecu.
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Old 03-03-2019, 08:11 PM   #42
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One more update for the day. I just went out and used the noid lite. The injectors are powered constantly with the ignition on and while cranking, no pulse. Just solid bright white light. To make sure, I went out and tested my 87 760t that's my girfriend's current daily, and it pulsated a dim light.

So does this pretty much point to a bad ECU? Apologies if other possibilities were already mentioned in this thread. It's been a month, and I'm still repeatedly reading back through all of this.

Edit: Actually it just hit me that I tried swapping the ECU before and nothing changed. ARRGH.

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Old 03-03-2019, 10:49 PM   #43
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Another thing that hit me, and I feel very, very stupid for it. So stupid that I wouldn't share it, except that I don't want this to be another one of those threads that someone looks through years from now wondering what happened because the solution was never posted. Not to say that I've figured it out. But anyway, my ignition switch has been rigged for years and I completely forgot that this could potentially cause an issue that it didn't cause with LH 2.2. My ignition switch crapped out a long time ago and I used a high-amp 2-position switch to bypass it and power everything up. Now I'm wondering if 2-position vs. 3-position and/ or the particular wires I'm powering constantly with the switch on, are causing this constant 12v thing to the injectors. I will have to look very closely at this after work tomorrow, and maybe reference my other 85 240's original ignition switch. That's one good thing about having a million Volvo's sitting around.

I'm curious to know if anyone agrees with me that an ignition wire that's wired differently than factory could cause this problem or not...
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Old 03-04-2019, 01:44 PM   #44
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YEs you have found the problem and that is it.
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Old 03-04-2019, 07:57 PM   #45
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I really am truly hopeless. So I cannot figure out the ignition now. I removed my aftermarket switch and the wires I have are thick red (12v constant), thick yellow (wipers andother electronics work when this one is connected to 12v), thick yellow/blue (when connected to 12v, injector noid lite comes on constant and fuel relay clicks, pumps prime), thin red/black (fuel pumps prime when connected to 12v). And that's it, that's all I have for ignition wires. I'm not sure why the injectors are powered constantly like that when the thick yellow/blue wire is powered. And I'm not sure what to do differently. Without this wire connected, there's no injector power, no fuel relay, etc. But with it connected the injectors are powered constantly.
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Old 03-05-2019, 01:30 AM   #46
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So there's 12vdc constant that should come from the radio suppression relay, through the ballast resistors, into all 4 injectors, and then into pin #18 (http://ipdown.net/jetronic.info/tiki...s+and+Diagrams) on the fuel injection ECU. The fuel injection ECU of course momentarily grounds that circuit to fire off the injectors in bank. If the ecu is hard shorted to ground you'd see this. How about disconnecting that pin @ the ecu and first see if the injectors are solid on still (short somewhere between ecu pin and injectors) and also test the pin on the ecu itself with everything powered off for ground continuity? I wouldn't expect it to be grounded with everything turned off but it sounds like it is grounded all the time?
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Old 03-05-2019, 01:35 AM   #47
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I really am truly hopeless. So I cannot figure out the ignition now. I removed my aftermarket switch and the wires I have are thick red (12v constant), thick yellow (wipers andother electronics work when this one is connected to 12v), thick yellow/blue (when connected to 12v, injector noid lite comes on constant and fuel relay clicks, pumps prime), thin red/black (fuel pumps prime when connected to 12v). And that's it, that's all I have for ignition wires. I'm not sure why the injectors are powered constantly like that when the thick yellow/blue wire is powered. And I'm not sure what to do differently. Without this wire connected, there's no injector power, no fuel relay, etc. But with it connected the injectors are powered constantly.
The thick yellow/blue wire is basically the fuel system. It will switch on the radio suppression relay which sends 12vdc to the injectors. The switching of the injectors is handled by the ECU momentarily grounding all 4 at once. So BL/YEL is totally doing its job.

You do have a wiring diagram for LH2.4 right?
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Old 03-05-2019, 09:42 AM   #48
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From the '85 240 Wiring Greenbook, the ignition switch wires are:
- big Red: Battery +12v (ign sw pin 30)
- big Yellow: Accessories position, to fuses 1,2,3 (ign sw pin X)
- big Blue/Yellow: Run position, to fuses 11,12,13,etc. (ign sw pin 15)
- small Red/Black: Run position, to ECU and main relay coil (ign sw pin 15)
- small Blue: to Starter, through P/N interlock or jumpered (ign sw pin 50)

I assume you have the DB harness with the resistor pack installed???

Which wires did you connect from the new harness to your cabin wires???

Sounds like the injector driver in your ECU is damagaged. Do you have access to a spare ECU that you could try? There's still a possibility that something else in your wiring is causing the problem, or damaging the ECU.
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Old 03-05-2019, 05:54 PM   #49
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I do have the DB harness with the resistor pack connector, and I'm using a resistor pack. I don't have a radio suppression relay though. Isn't that only needed on the 7-series? I don't think there's a connector for one on the DB harness.

Interior wires I have connected from the DB harness:
A1. Blue- switched power from ign pin 15 (tapped into fuse panel number 11)
A2. Blue (fat)- switched power from ign pin 15 (also tapped into fuse panel 11 - DB's instructions state that fuses 11,12,or 13 are acceptable)
B2. Red/yel (fat) (although it's not really very fat like the old one was which confuses me)- fuse panel number 4
B7. Pink- wired to starter solenoid

Wires NOT being used:
B1. red/gray- ECU pin 15- A/C relay
B3. green- ECU pin 14- A/C clutch
B4. black/blue- ECU pin 34- Speedo pulse
B5. Violet- ECU pin 26- shift light
B6. pink/white (x2) ECU pin 22, ICU pin3- check engine light
B8. red/white- powerstage pin 1- output to tach

So the way I was just switching 12v to the three ignition wires before (big yel, big yel/blue, small red/black) has been working fine for a couple years with LH 2.2. Is there really a reason this wouldn't work with LH 2.4? It does seem like it's blown injector drivers, but I do remember trying the ECU out of a 92 940t that I had sitting around a while back, and the symptoms remained identical. The only thing is that 92 940t also barely ran and was running really rich and billowing black smoke, so it's possible it also had blown injector drivers. I didn't think it would be that common though. Besides, that one did start and idle so it's symptoms were a little different. I have one more ECU to try, it's on a 94 940t that runs fine. It's being stored 25 miles from me though so I'll have to try and make time to go get it.

rallydallas, I'll try your suggestion. It's a brand new harness so I doubt there's a short in it, but I'll try it anyway...what else am I going to do.
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Old 03-05-2019, 06:01 PM   #50
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The thick yellow/blue wire is basically the fuel system. It will switch on the radio suppression relay which sends 12vdc to the injectors. The switching of the injectors is handled by the ECU momentarily grounding all 4 at once. So BL/YEL is totally doing its job.

You do have a wiring diagram for LH2.4 right?
The grounding is supposed to be momentary though right? Because the injectors will just stay powered until the yel/blue wire is disconnected from the red 12v wire again.

I have a few different diagrams I found online, but none are perfect. Wire colors changed on Volvo's about 10 times per year for no reason, so I've found it impossible to find just the right diagram. I have the diagram for my new Dave Barton harness, which should be almost all I need...
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