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Old 03-11-2019, 10:49 PM   #1
2turbotoys
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Default Early 240 steering wheel removal question

I want to remove the steering wheel from my '79 242 to install an aftermarket one, but I don't want to harm my factory wheel, it's in perfect shape. It seems the only way is to remove the square in the center to start the process. I did some gentle prying with a screwdriver on the square bit, but no luck.
Anyone have a go to tool or procedure for this? Usually I would try harder with different tools but like I said the wheel is perfect and I don't want to damage anything.
Anything else I should know about this process? Thanks guys
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Old 03-12-2019, 02:06 PM   #2
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Is this the large school bus wheel? You want to use a very small jewelers screwdriver and kind of press it right next to the plastic center till the edge goes under it and you slide it under the plastic cover to pop it out. Then a deep 27mm socket on a long extension to a breaker bar will remove the nut.
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Old 03-12-2019, 07:56 PM   #3
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Ya, its the 16" old style. Thanks! I need to get a deep well 26mm then.
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Old 03-12-2019, 08:00 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dl242gt View Post
Then a deep 27mm socket on a long extension to a breaker bar will remove the nut.
Hope your 26mm was a typo. GL242gt was correct . . . 27MM
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Old 03-12-2019, 08:12 PM   #5
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Sorry, yes typo, thanks for the heads up
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Old 03-12-2019, 08:16 PM   #6
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Volvo Coupes/Sedans/Wagons 1970-1989 Repair Guide

"Always leave the nut on when you muscle a wheel off. Ask me why sometime."
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Old 03-12-2019, 08:40 PM   #7
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That guide is for the later wheel, but good info regardless, thanks!
The instructions that came with the wheel did mention to keep the nut on, I'm not sure what the advantage is but I know know theres a reason behind it, I'm not going to find out the hard way haha.
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Old 03-12-2019, 08:46 PM   #8
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1973 and Later 100 and 200 Series is what they say...

Here's a guide before yours was made
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Old 03-12-2019, 08:46 PM   #9
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Due to a change in the cone angle of this steering shaft, a puller is not needed on 1979 and later models. Mark the steering wheel alignment to facilitate correct installation.
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Old 03-12-2019, 08:52 PM   #10
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Quote:
I'm not sure what the advantage is . . . .

The wheel is difficult to get off . . . .

When it releases it will stop on the nut that was left on loose . . . or your nose.
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Old 03-12-2019, 08:52 PM   #11
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Will do, thanks.

Haha, don't need to punch myself in the nose, would be funny to anyone watching though.
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Old 03-12-2019, 11:22 PM   #12
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I'll take butter knife for $800 Alex.
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Folks on here don't know a good deal when they see it.
how psi stock cna support?

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Old 03-13-2019, 06:42 AM   #13
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1-1/16" socket works too if you're not hung up on that commie metric system.
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Old 03-13-2019, 06:50 AM   #14
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Quote:
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1-1/16" socket works too if you're not hung up on that commie metric system.


As it was on the 140 so it is on the 240.
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Old 03-13-2019, 12:35 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redwood Chair View Post
I'll take butter knife for $800 Alex.
And I'll cheer you on.

I'm guessing it must be pretty easy, because I recall prying a high-mileage badge out of that spot in the yards years ago. It is killing me now trying to recall what I did with it.
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Old 03-18-2019, 11:11 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 84B23F View Post
Due to a change in the cone angle of this steering shaft, a puller is not needed on 1979 and later models. Mark the steering wheel alignment to facilitate correct installation.
Don't miss this little important step.
Otherwise you will hit the road and see your wheel tweeked/misaligned wrong to the left or right.
Yes, then you get to remove the wheel all over again to get what you had before you took it off.
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Old 03-19-2019, 07:51 PM   #17
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Haha, I will do that. I haven't installed it yet because I'm fighting with the rusty rear suspension and the car is on jackstands.
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Old 03-19-2019, 11:54 PM   #18
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If you put the wheel back on 15-20 degrees to the left, it makes it easier to put the drivers seat all the way back, lean it out gangster style and drive with your left foot. The heel-toe gas/clutch with the right foot is a real pain in the arse but you get used to it.....
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Old 03-22-2019, 10:06 PM   #19
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Ok... thanks for the nonsense.

Anyway, there is no practical way to mark the position of the wheel so I just put the wheels dead straight and the big tires are holding pretty well. Had to turn my impact gun up to max setting (600 ftlbs) to get the dam nut off. Everything stayed straight, just assembled the Volvo to Momo adapter to the Momo to Mota Lita adapter, and it's about ready to install.
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Old 03-22-2019, 10:18 PM   #20
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140 wheels are always hard to remove, 240 wheels not so much so.
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Old 03-22-2019, 10:46 PM   #21
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Thanks guys, original steering wheel wasn't damaged during removal, new one looking good.

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Old 03-22-2019, 11:37 PM   #22
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Nice, I like. Is your car Carlsbad Yellow, 128?
On my 79, the factory wheel looks perfect however the rubber has separated from the steel core, and its like steering with a water-weenie.
While the last comment was a joke, I do know people who purposely put wheels crooked because the wheel blocks a gauge or something.
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Old 03-22-2019, 11:43 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redwood Chair View Post
140 wheels are always hard to remove, 240 wheels not so much so.
Had a heck of a time getting the one off of my 82. Come to think of it, I don't know if I ever did get it off. I did wonder at the time if the column had been replaced because the car had been in a front end and then fixed by docksteader volvo in 84. A few things on that car were loose and a few were wayyyy to tight. Plus it had allen heads where security bolts are supposed to be?? I had a receipt but no breakdown of what they did.
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Old 03-23-2019, 04:54 PM   #24
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Thanks, I would have to look up the code again to be sure what color it is. I'm getting it repainted the same color at some point so I better check..
Haha, I've had those steering wheels before, kinda gross feeling.

The bolt was the only real problem, had to really hammer it off, and same putting it back on.
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