• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

D?j? Vu Mid-Blue - 1989 Volvo 245 DL

Main pump thing is resolved. I'm a doofus and forgot to remove the in-tank pump fuse before doing the check. The main pump works as intended, but I cannot hear the in-tank pump working at all. I'll keep reading.
 
Looking at my pictures and comparing them to cleanflametrap.com, I have the revised sender with correct wiring which makes sense since that seems to have been corrected for five years. I checked voltage with the pump plugged in. I back probed the pump side connector to the black wire and put the other side on the brown ring terminal. Then I jumped the fuse. 11.9V. I don't know what to do at this point except pull the pump out again, leave it plugged in, and check voltage on the pump itself.
 
I had to put my brain in and start diagnosis. I checked the lug for power like I said, and saw that I was getting voltage to the sender, so I moved down the chain.
q0rkQiRl.jpg


For sanity I jumped the pump to the power wire and made it spin. Sweet. Then I checked the resistance between the pump connector and the connector inside the car. This is what I thought I would see.
a0gzRv0l.jpg


Then I moved up to the other side of the connector. It looks like I found my problem.
6zSFJX8l.jpg


No good. Thanks aftermarket.
0Sx12d8l.jpg


Let's rig it.
qRa84J0l.jpg


GDsChs5l.jpg


Then for sanity once again, I put it together, jumped the fuse again and watched gas pump out of the supply line. That should be the end of the saga, but it isn't. I went for a test drive. No dice. I came back to the house, jumped the fuse again, nothing.
 

Haha I was about to reply. Mine is like it showed it your pic. I need to hang out inside and drink some water. I need to cool down not only physically, but mentally. I hate doing things twice, but three times? In this heat and humidity? I'm gonna lose it! :freak:

EDIT: ...and now a storm is coming through AGAIN probably just long enough to ensure that it stays absolutely miserable outside. When it stops I'll pull the supply line off again and jump the fuse. Something really goofy is going on.
 
Haha I was about to reply. Mine is like it showed it your pic. I need to hang out inside and drink some water. I need to cool down not only physically, but mentally. I hate doing things twice, but three times? In this heat and humidity? I'm gonna lose it! :freak:

EDIT: ...and now a storm is coming through AGAIN probably just long enough to ensure that it stays absolutely miserable outside. When it stops I'll pull the supply line off again and jump the fuse. Something really goofy is going on.

Whenever the pump is silent when jumping the fuses, that's when you need your voltmeter. Intermittent functionality could mean power loss or pump malfunction. The voltmeter will tell you which it is. Preferably, keep the pump plugged in, and find a way to safely get the voltmeter leads on the plug leads on that black connector in the trunk without shorting anything, and then jump the fuses and see what the voltmeter says.

You gotta do this while you are experiencing the 'no response' scenario from the pump though, so maybe wire up the voltmeter, go for a drive, then as soon as you come back you're ready to test it out.

Jump fuse, silent pump, voltmeter reads ~12V, you've got a problem between the connector & pump.

Jump fuse, silent pump, voltmeter reads 0 or a few volts, now you know you need to snoop up the line and check grounds, spades, etc.

Did you make sure to replace/attach the ground ring terminal?

image016.jpg
 
Whenever the pump is silent when jumping the fuses, that's when you need your voltmeter. Intermittent functionality could mean power loss or pump malfunction. The voltmeter will tell you which it is. Preferably, keep the pump plugged in, and find a way to safely get the voltmeter leads on the plug leads on that black connector in the trunk without shorting anything, and then jump the fuses and see what the voltmeter says.

You gotta do this while you are experiencing the 'no response' scenario from the pump though, so maybe wire up the voltmeter, go for a drive, then as soon as you come back you're ready to test it out.

Jump fuse, silent pump, voltmeter reads ~12V, you've got a problem between the connector & pump.

Jump fuse, silent pump, voltmeter reads 0 or a few volts, now you know you need to snoop up the line and check grounds, spades, etc.

Did you make sure to replace/attach the ground ring terminal?

image016.jpg

Gotcha. Yeah, the ring terminal is secure. I'll try what you said. As expected, the storm is already dying down. :roll: Now I can start the sweating process all over. I wish we still had volvowiringdiagrams.com. I'll be completely lost if it's before the connector.
 
The rain stopped, so I went straight to the fuses. Everything worked fine. Figures. I then hooked alligator clips to the black wire side of the sender connector and the ring terminal. Those got hooked to positive and negative on my DVOM respectively.
DC8XfURl.jpg


The only thing to do then was go for a drive to see if it would change. I adjusted my rear view mirror and kept vigilant.
ACeimUIl.jpg


I never saw it dip below 12.8V after driving 50 miles in stop/go traffic, but it seemed to run pretty good the whole time... This time I stepped back and reflected. I haven't driven this car in almost two weeks. In the mean time, I've been driving a turbo Camaro every day.... Maybe a lot of what I've been feeling today is just placebo? After all, I used to make fun of people coming in to the Honda dealer after trading their Tahoe for a CRV and complaining about no power. :lol: I figured it was time to let Allie drive.

She thought the acceleration and torque was way better than she had ever remembered it, so I accepted the current condition as normal. This doesn't entirely explain the lack of audible lift pump action after the previous test drive, but I've been checking this entire time with the full interior together. Once I pulled the interior apart (after the post storm drive), shut the hatch, and tried again, I realized that it may have been impossible to know with all the lawn mowers and birds in the neighborhood. Then again, these last two drives were both AFTER the storm and therefore almost thirty degrees cooler than earlier in the day. That's a big swing, but I guess I'll keep driving it through the week and see if my condition comes back.

Thanks everybody for the help. I guess the moral of the story is to test your aftermarket senders before you put the whole car back together! Also, diagnosing "low power" issues on a car that's rated for less than a third of what your daily driver is making might be difficult.
 
Update: I drove it to work this morning and it still feels nice. Maybe I've just talked myself into thinking it's fine, but the cruise control is much more responsive, the engine accelerates and revs out much smoother, and the car takes off a lot quicker. I still have a buzzing noise, but I'm pretty confident that it's just a rattling heat shield or something. Either way, I'm writing off my post sender repair "issues" as placebo and unrealistic expectations. I'm going to stick some goo up by the seemingly broken muffler heat shield, install the the fuel pump mounts whenever they arrive, and send this thing to MI! Can't wait.
 
Update: I drove it to work this morning and it still feels nice. Maybe I've just talked myself into thinking it's fine, but the cruise control is much more responsive, the engine accelerates and revs out much smoother, and the car takes off a lot quicker. I still have a buzzing noise, but I'm pretty confident that it's just a rattling heat shield or something. Either way, I'm writing off my post sender repair "issues" as placebo and unrealistic expectations. I'm going to stick some goo up by the seemingly broken muffler heat shield, install the the fuel pump mounts whenever they arrive, and send this thing to MI! Can't wait.

I can see how going from 300 hp to a 240 would make you think something's wrong.

As my fiancee puts it, they're unsafely slow. She doesn't know about the kickdown cable though.

Keep your DVOM on hand & send it!
 
It got toasty yesterday, and I still haven't noticed any running problems. :) I have noticed that the new pumps are kind of noisy, but I only notice it when the blower motor is off and the windows are closed....

They must not be THAT noisy. :lol: Again, I think my brain is playing games.

I decided to buy Moose and I a little present for all the trouble. I think it's still going to be a while before the new trim shows up, but I have to figure out why it takes a minute for this thing to start working anyway. I'm guessing that the old gross power wire I used is junk. I'm sure I'll figure it out, but this was kinda just a novelty anyway. I've always thought the small tachs were neat and a perfect instrumentation addition for a car like this.
J8E2G7I.jpg
 
Sorry for neglecting turbobricks. I've been too lazy to get on Imgur.

Over a week ago, the fuel pump mounts arrived.
CKUyMHP.jpg


gmndYPE.jpg


...and from there we we were off to Michigan!
9J4xRll.jpg


THIS is more like it! I'll take 24 mpg while cruising 75 mph with the AC on and a full of luggage!
ppxzMoL.png


yAwS62G.jpg


AmL7rST.jpg


PUEEi2c.jpg


mjGwXCH.jpg


JLwcYUZ.jpg


5j9WUYH.jpg


O6eU1Zu.jpg


1bq4c8A.jpg


Back home
kqTLtUk.jpg


Without skipping a beat, the old Vo was a definitely a highlight of our week long trip! Would we have liked an extra 20 hp or so through the hilly high speed highways of northern MI? For sure. The car struggled a bit through there. For as much interstate driving as we do, the power boost we've been wanting is starting look like a bigger priority. I know for a while, I mentioned wanting to do an NA 16V conversion, but I've scrapped that idea. It's a ton of work and money for such little reward. Plus, I'd be screwed if the engine puked it's belt for some reason.

Mild +T on LH2.4? That's not out of the question! I like that I could do that whole conversion in a weekend if I have all the parts ready to go. I'd worry for the lives of the 200k+ mile skinny rods and AW70, but I can't imagine a 15g, with a good intercooler, trans cooler, oil cooler, and soft driving habits being THAT rough on things.

I'm just babbling though, I still have to focus on the things that don't work like the rear dome light, heated seats, a door switch, and more body work. It's fun to dream though.
 
24-25 mpg is definitely sounding like everything is working properly. Especially cruising at 75mph.

great pictures, makes me want to hurry up and finish my renovations so I too can get back to enjoying 240 road trips

O6eU1Zu.jpg


get a medium/thick sewing needle, pliers and lighter. hold the sewing needle with the pliers, heat up the needle with the lighter, and drag the hot needle into the apex of the dash crack, melting a small amount of the vinyl into a rounded shape. This will typically stop the crack from propagating further because it eliminates the stress riser.
 
Thanks for the tip! That sounds like something I'd only have patience for when the weather is much cooler though. :lol: I'm excited to see how yours turns out.

I mentioned the blurb about wanting more power, but I went for a drive soon after and had some thoughts. First of all, the OD solenoid is deleted. If I don't like the shifting in and out of OD, I should get that working again. Second of all, the cruise control started working like normal again! I actually set it on 80 with the AC on and the servo kicked the trans down and held the speed going up hills. It's NEVER been able to do that. I think I need to find another cruise control leak, because that may be the "boost" I'm looking for. The way cruise would loose speed before was like not having cruise at all.
 
I'm not really sure why I'm beating myself up over this tachometer. Although I failed to mention it, you may notice in the road trip pictures that the tach is out of sight and out of mind. I didn't have the trim piece so I'd rather look at the blank square anyway. :lol: However, this one does not even work right. :-(

You can view the details here, --> https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=356201 but the gauge only seemed to work randomly. If I was smart, I would just return it to the nice seller who offered a full refund, but I like to punish myself and I'm going to be sad when my trim piece finally arrives with nothing to fill the gauge hole. There isn't a lot of information on tachometer repair, let alone the small tach, but the 30 year-old capacitors seem to be a go-to fix in these situations...
Vr6PXAPl.jpg


yWeXqdTl.jpg


bhyapJ5l.jpg


bs1W8GRl.jpg


HXPar2Wl.jpg


Hopefully I fixed it. I reflowed a couple sketchy looking connections as well, so I'm anxious to find out if this did the trick!
 
I fixed it!

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/-GpKxelmink" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

I just need to button up some ugliness and twiddle my thumbs until the trim arrives.
 
Just kidding. It's still broken. Blank square is back in place. :-(

The redneck tachometer I use for my 145 is a piano tuner app- the loudest resonance tends to be the first harmonic, so I just multiply hz by 60 and divide by 4 to achieve my rpm value

but yeah that's probably the most inconvenient thing possible

I do understand why you want to keep the big clock, it's very quirky. But I'll also offer you my big tach that I have that requires shaft repair (broken needle shaft). If you want it, just cover shipping. But it might not be easy to fix

I wonder if you could do similar with your in tank pump and rig a multimeter to watch the wire signal real time as you drive? I'm thinking the duty cycle mode would be applicable. I'm thinking the tach reads pulse off the ignition coil? Or I could be making that up.

But yeah it'd be useful to see if the pulse is disappearing all together (goes to 0hz or open circuit), or just dropping in amplitude below some critical threshold (frequency still present but voltage drops)

But now I'm not even sure if that tach wire pulses.

At least it's a non-essential item, just a nice little luxury
 
The redneck tachometer I use for my 145 is a piano tuner app- the loudest resonance tends to be the first harmonic, so I just multiply hz by 60 and divide by 4 to achieve my rpm value

but yeah that's probably the most inconvenient thing possible

I do understand why you want to keep the big clock, it's very quirky. But I'll also offer you my big tach that I have that requires shaft repair (broken needle shaft). If you want it, just cover shipping. But it might not be easy to fix

I wonder if you could do similar with your in tank pump and rig a multimeter to watch the wire signal real time as you drive? I'm thinking the duty cycle mode would be applicable. I'm thinking the tach reads pulse off the ignition coil? Or I could be making that up.

But yeah it'd be useful to see if the pulse is disappearing all together (goes to 0hz or open circuit), or just dropping in amplitude below some critical threshold (frequency still present but voltage drops)

But now I'm not even sure if that tach wire pulses.

At least it's a non-essential item, just a nice little luxury

Thanks for the offer, but I'm set on keeping my cluster the way it is. I'm not dead set on using THIS small tach, but at the same time I'm kinda pissed at myself for getting into this situation. I only bought a trim ring so that I could fill my cart high enough for free shipping. Then I bought this tach because I ASSUMED that it would be a super simple installation and place holder. The car doesn't need a tach at all. In fact, I'm more upset about adding another broken piece to the car I've been working so hard to make "fully functional"

It might seem silly to others. Just take the tach out and forget about it, right? I guess I just feel too invested in this dumb novelty to give up on it. Then again, I guess it's kinda the story of owning a 30 year old Volvo in general.
 
After several days of trouble-free operation, I'm calling the tach "fixed!" Also, I finally got the brand new trim ring from Volvo today. I can't believe Volvo still makes them.
dze3LaMl.jpg


5PLwgoBl.jpg


This is the longest and most expensive broken trim square repair ever! :lol: No regrets. We love the new gauge.
 
Back
Top