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There isn't much room between the wheel and frame rails at lock on a PV. Narrow track, relatively wide frame rail spacing. The top A-arms are pretty short.
At this point, I *think* I have enough room if have that troublesome port (#4) immediately bend forward/up over the sparplug.
If I have to clearance the frame rail a little bit, I imagine I'll be okay to notch the firewall frame spar and fill with a pipe as you suggest. The cartoon in #205 above gives you an idea of that.
There's tons of room in the backhalf of the front fenders for exhaust and even mufflers if I wuss out and muffle the beast. You can see a the driver's side in this pic
Kyle,
I've been watching your thread, really enjoying your learning/building process. I thought that in the interest of modernity I would send you a link to Fat Man IFS.
Cutting the frame rails off the 544 and grafting a complete IFS, with coil-overs, R & P steering and disk brakes would really improve everything about the ride and handling of your car. It will also give you tons of room for headers! JMO
Yeah, I know, I could have spent more money and less time and gotten a better project. It'll have power four wheel discs and power steering (maybe) when done.
Frankly, still kicking myself (gently) for passing on a $400 (?) shell; could have rebodied a Miata and been done years ago.
As far as project cars go, this thing is insane - too much work, too much time. But as a lesson in fabrication, it's cheap.
Stick to the plan, it's a good one! Always time for upgrades later when you sort out the difficult issues such as this. If it's easy, everyone will build one.
There was no room for the shorty headers the car came with - IIRC the outlets hit the framerails in the front, and there was still no room for that damn #4 runner.
Agree I probably won't need PS, especially with the engine set back so far, but it might ease the belt routing; haven't looked into that part yet.
Here's some pics of the room in the fender area for the exhaust. Might be a touch tricky around the master, but I think it'll work out okay. Also a front-on pic just for giggles, as well as a pic of the finished gas tank.
Anyone know which reservoir from the master is for the front vs the rear? This is off a ~98 six cyl Mustang IIRC.
I believe the rear port is typically for the front brakes but don't take that to the bank.
I realize that you have a ton of work into recessing that booster into the firewall,a nd it looks fantastic.....but in light of how little space you have for exhaust routing, I wonder if I would eliminate the booster and just aim for big brakes instead. You could still keep the recess, but tuck the master cylinder back into there. Then you could free up that space for tubezz... Just my
BTW, seeing the engine in with the front sheetmetal gave me a semi. Looks amazing! Can't wait to see it on the road!!
The car stopped "okay" before, but took more pedal pressure than I'd like. Adding a couple hundred HP to the mix, seemed like a good idea to have the brakes as good as possible (122 discs up front, 98 mustang GT discs in the rear).
While I have yet to actually delve into the exhaust routing, I think I can locate the prop valve under the booster on the FW and run the tubes in between the frame rail and the master. A heat shield might be a good idea, but don't know if I'll need it, a lot of air bellowing around in the fender.
Pulled the engine back out (I really should have been keeping track of the ins and outs), whacked my head on the hoist, and called it good for the day. That was last week.
Between mountain biking, work, and track day, been distracted this last week.
Feed line is in and done, along with FoMoCo fuel filter. Also going to use the OEM line from the pump to the filter, following my goal of reusing as much of the donor as possible.
Not planning to flare the lines, will use HPFI clamps. All hand bent, so it looks a little goofy in places, but it's not really going to be visible upon assembly.
It's held in five or so places with nylon clamps, courtesy of Harbor Freight. If they give me issue, I'll wrap the lines in pieces of hose and fabricate some metal clamps.
Given that I completely blanked on providing for the routing of these lines, I'm pretty pleased it worked out so well.
Kyle, Looks good, guess you got lucky. A trick I've always used was to cut a piece of 3/8" rubber fuel line into 1" to 2" pieces and then split it lengthwise so it can be slipped over the hard fuel line where it rubs on body or frame. In the marine industry this is known as "chafing gear"!
Oh, and it's time for a pedicure
Yeah, need to trim the claws, I know.
I have chafing gear over one point where the line crosses a sharp cut. Going to monitor things once it's up and running. At this late date in the project I need to stop obsessing and re-engineering every little thing.
Just renewed the registration for another $91. This one I'll use, the other two, money down the toobs. Funny how "well I think I can get this done in a year" stretches to three.
I had the axle propped up by a 4' long piece of 1x2 steel to see where to run the return line through the floor.
Once I found a likely spot, I raised the car to unload the steel. Except I lowered it instead of raising it.
That left the car supported by the two front hoist points and the 1x2 in the back. Upon which it leaned a little bit. And in that excruciating slow motion these things always have, the car fell down and went boom.
I'd been halfway expecting something like this to happen in that nightmarish sort of way.
I'm undamaged, got a scrape on one leg in my panic to escape. Car took a couple hits, both of which needed major attention due to prior accident repair (already have a replacement door). Car seems to still be square.
Took the engine hoist, floor jack, and a couple redwood logs to get it safely off.
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