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1965 122 S suspensions help

SML said:
All that to say, I think she's still my most favorite car that I've owned.
Click to expand...

If you really mean that, you're in friendly company. My 122 is my favorite car hands down, even though all my other cars are faster and more refined. There's just something perfect about them.

Here's another take on the crossmember shock reinforcement:

122_358.jpg


And the control arm reinforcement:

122_330.jpg


Also enjoy this for some inspiration even though I'm a Volvo loyalist: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7D_PCUbFfHc
 
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LloydDobler said:
If you really mean that, you're in friendly company. My 122 is my favorite car hands down, even though all my other cars are faster and more refined. There's just something perfect about them.


Also enjoy this for some inspiration even though I'm a Volvo loyalist: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7D_PCUbFfHc
Click to expand...

I hear that! I love that green sr20 swap. Super inspiring.

I'm just at a crossroads as to what to do next. I don't want to invest any money in the front end (i.e. reinforcing it as shown) if I'm going to end up cutting/welding/adapting an IFS from the 240sx/custom job. I was hoping she'd be a little more road worthy so that I could daily her during mockup and such. As it stands now, I'd have to reinforce/upgrade the suspension just to drive her "stock" and hope that I will be satisfied with it or keep driving my stupid Toyota Camry until I have enough time to get all the Nissan stuff measured and the volvo measured to see what it would take to put it in.

Goals that I have ultimately:

0) Fix stuff that MUST be fixed. Holes, tears and panels that must be replaced. Has to happen no matter what, so it's a good place to start.
1) IRS and wider track. Probably both be achieved with the 240sx suspension bits and a custom subframe. Although, I haven't measured the nissan yet I'm sure it's wider lol.
2) 250 RWHP. Not very hard assuming I can modify the driveshaft of the drift missile and bring along its diff and axles as seen in step 1. sr20 is good for 350 daily driven and liveable horsepower (albeit turbo laggy) without much fuss.
3) Larger, meatier tires and wheels. I have some 225/45/17 Dunlop Sport Maxx's from my Subie that have virtually no wear. I could save all that money on rubber if I can fit them. I'm more than open to fender flares (look away purists) to accomodate.
4) Liveable, confident suspension. Mostly for the front if I have everything else on the list. THIS is where I'm hung up. Welding that reinforcement is no sweat. It's bothering to spend money on springs and shocks if they're not going to lineup ultimately with my goal
5) Body work/paint. Wish I could do this first, but things usually get messy during 1-4.
7) Weather stripping. I need help here. Anyone have experience with this?
6) Interior. Ugh. I hate how expensive it will be. Anything that's visible in the car will need to be upgraded/replaced/refurbished. I suspect to run out of money on step 5, so maybe it won't matter. lol

That would be my dream car. We'll see how far we get before hitting a gigantic obstacle.

Thanks for all the feedback. Love the Volvo community.

Also, for those who were wondering LS3 swap would've been my first choice to be honest. WAYYYYYYYYYY too expensive. Like WAYYYYY. Small blocks that were not fuel injected don't interest me at all. Just my personal choice.
 
Reinforcing the front end takes time not money. I think it was about $10 worth of 3/16" steel and about an afternoon of fitting to get it all done. So we went from this:

37409267964_1f8ceb1e91_b.jpg


37409267844_833aec5113_b.jpg


To this:

37409282184_11fe61835d_b.jpg


To this:

37409293404_cb45fe3f2b_b.jpg


In a day...I get worried when I see IRS listed as #1 on the goal list and 250 RWHP...is hard - don't kid yourself (because you have to change pretty much everything). So the IRS is like #1000 on the list. I know of 3 cars that have this swap - all have done it differently, none were easy.

Look, just being realistic - you're not going to drive it and do most of what's on that list. It's going to be off the road for a long time.

You don't HAVE to reinforce the suspension. I didn't do mine at all and it was never a problem (well, I did do the LCA's) - the cross member pictured is from an 1800 by the way - they're worse, but of similar design.

Get your stage one done and review goals. I've watched many of these projects start on this forum...and very few finish.
 
Canuck said:
Reinforcing the front end takes time not money. I think it was about $10 worth of 3/16" steel and about an afternoon of fitting to get it all done.

I get worried when I see IRS listed as #1 on the goal list and 250 RWHP...is hard - don't kid yourself (because you have to change pretty much everything). So the IRS is like #1000 on the list. I know of 3 cars that have this swap - all have done it differently, none were easy.

Look, just being realistic - you're not going to drive it and do most of what's on that list. It's going to be off the road for a long time.

You don't HAVE to reinforce the suspension. I didn't do mine at all and it was never a problem (well, I did do the LCA's) - the cross member pictured is from an 1800 by the way - they're worse, but of similar design.

Get your stage one done and review goals. I've watched many of these projects start on this forum...and very few finish.
Click to expand...

Appreciate the feedback. Right on all counts, except a few. I knew I couldn't really keep driving it. My prayer was that I could keep it in friendly Volvo 122 stock form, work on the Nissan, take my measurements, do the fab work and have it offline for a couple weeks for fitment. Bye-bye to that idea.

In regards to the reinforcement, it's not a question of just the reinforcement, otherwise it'd be done. Shocks, springs, bushings, mounts, LCA...probably all need replacing or major TLC. I'm not afraid of the work, I'm being picky with my time. If I'm going to commit to this thing being the way I wanna do it, I want as few intermediate steps as possible. If I'm ever going to change it, I want to spend as little time dealing with it as possible.

By all means, if the general agreement is that the front suspension will be okay-enough then I'll order the springs, shocks, bushings, sway bar, metal for reinforcement, etc right now. It looks like a fun/easy fix and I'll get the chance to shine it up with fresh primer/coating etc.

I respectfully disagree with IRS being last and also 250 RWP being hard to achieve. Not in the context of the project. Having to change everything is the point! Here's where my head's at: I'm doing a motor swap. I have a donor car with a drive shaft, rear diff, IRS, disc brakes, etc that *could* be modified (which is the fun part!) to fit the 122 and are all matching since they're from the same car. Will it be a 122 anymore? Debatable. Also irrelevant.

*begin sermon* If that's unrealistic, then I suppose project cars in general make no sense. Of course it's hard. If I wanted easy, I could've teased 300 some odd horsepower in my very modern and very nice Subaru with minimal effort. Easy would be to get the POS Nissan in my garage running again. I don't want easy. I don't want common. I want to take a car down to its bones and up to a glorious daily driver that was built by mine own hand. *end sermon*
 
Listen to Canuck, he know's what he's talking about, especialy about the IRS.
If you want to take it there it will be a cool build, if you are preparde to build, build, and build... and hope the project don't end without driving the car, (ever)
There is a lot of easier/faster/cheaper fun unless you prefere the joy of building over driving.
 
SML said:
I respectfully disagree with IRS being last and also 250 RWP being hard to achieve. Not in the context of the project. Having to change everything is the point! Here's where my head's at: I'm doing a motor swap. I have a donor car with a drive shaft, rear diff, IRS, disc brakes, etc that *could* be modified (which is the fun part!) to fit the 122 and are all matching since they're from the same car. Will it be a 122 anymore? Debatable. Also irrelevant.

*begin sermon* If that's unrealistic, then I suppose project cars in general make no sense. Of course it's hard. If I wanted easy, I could've teased 300 some odd horsepower in my very modern and very nice Subaru with minimal effort. Easy would be to get the POS Nissan in my garage running again. I don't want easy. I don't want common. I want to take a car down to its bones and up to a glorious daily driver that was built by mine own hand. *end sermon*
Click to expand...



Here's my second crack at this today. I've thought about this and it depends on what your objectives are in the end. I'm going to just pitch this out and we'll see how it goes. I've seen most modified 122's over the years and things like removing the floor and starting over have been done. Grafting the top half of the car onto another car has been done. I think it comes down to build philosophy.

So you have a HP goal and want IRS. Great. I've just said it isn't easy because you have to change everything to meet that goal. Most wouldn't think of that as easy.

I think it breaks down into two groups that finish. We won't talk about all those projects that end up for sale or just abandoned.

1. Hot rod builds. With a little cutting and welding and a sledge hammer, anything will fit into anything. It may not be good, but it'll be done. And often it is good. Nothing wrong with this approach (not going to discuss high dollar builds...wrong forum).

2. Design change builds. Cars are designed around many constraints. These nuts want to change the constraints. It's not going to be good enough to be good enough. They want things optimized. They want all the grip they can get and turn that little car into something it was never meant to be for no good reason. These builds/builders spend a lot of time with a calculator relative to time with a welder. Maybe they want to fit the car into a specific series or have rules/regulations to target. Who knows.

So by example, my IRS install seen through these two lenses.

Hot rod: The idea of an IRS is great. It must be better because it's independent. Travel to the JY to find that no sane car maker in the past 30 years has built an IRS in a car with a rear track of only 52"...but didn't Jaguars have about that with the E-Type...and wasn't it in a self-contained cradle with inboard brakes and integral coil overs and all that stuff?

BAM - You bet it was.

26346529579_40f2eaafa8_z.jpg


Clean it up and weld her in and we're rolling in style. All kidding aside, it's not a bad idea. And it's been done, by a guy with a lot of skill and I like that build.


Design: It would be nice to get away from the solid rear axle to enhance handling and optimize the rear of the car (hopefully to match the front). So we get the tape measure and head to the JY as well, but pass by the Jaguar, and head for something a little newer...probably multi link and modern. It should at least have CV joints. I ended up with this mess.

26346530019_04d5009980_z.jpg


It's out of a Toyota Supra (MK3) - you get the Toyota differential, good geometry, and even some passive steer...but that subframe is rather specific to the Supra and won't fit in the 122.

So I built this:

31942725781_72bd2f8794_b.jpg


Shortened it up 6"...then revised the entire rear half of the car to handle the load paths that the rear end creates.

Revised frame, cross members etc to handle the loads. Look at that snubber on the original frame...it's there for a reason. You have to work through all of those details.

31863599372_d598c6ff63_b.jpg


Every detail that I can think of including reinforcing the front cross member attachment points inside and out, up and down to take the beating I'll give it when done.

I've hired a race engineer to work through the design and help me optimize the suspension. We've moved things around and this is version 3 of the design. So when you say that your parts all come from the same donor car...that's all well and good (mine come from two completely different cars) but it's all in the details. What I'm saying is there are a million details. Little stupid things that will trip you up and big things that will sink builds.

So to my way of thinking, putting an IRS in a car never designed for an IRS is not simple. It could be, but I don't want it to be too simple. Heck, putting 250 hp to the ground in a 122 means your doors are not always going to work right - I only had 135 WHP and managed to give the body a new set at a track day.
 
Canuck said:
Here's my second crack at this today. I've thought about this and it depends on what your objectives are in the end. I'm going to just pitch this out and we'll see how it goes. I've seen most modified 122's over the years and things like removing the floor and starting over have been done. Grafting the top half of the car onto another car has been done. I think it comes down to build philosophy.

So you have a HP goal and want IRS. Great. I've just said it isn't easy because you have to change everything to meet that goal. Most wouldn't think of that as easy.

I think it breaks down into two groups that finish. We won't talk about all those projects that end up for sale or just abandoned.

1. Hot rod builds. With a little cutting and welding and a sledge hammer, anything will fit into anything. It may not be good, but it'll be done. And often it is good. Nothing wrong with this approach (not going to discuss high dollar builds...wrong forum).

2. Design change builds. Cars are designed around many constraints. These nuts want to change the constraints. It's not going to be good enough to be good enough. They want things optimized. They want all the grip they can get and turn that little car into something it was never meant to be for no good reason. These builds/builders spend a lot of time with a calculator relative to time with a welder. Maybe they want to fit the car into a specific series or have rules/regulations to target. Who knows.

So by example, my IRS install seen through these two lenses.

Hot rod: The idea of an IRS is great. It must be better because it's independent. Travel to the JY to find that no sane car maker in the past 30 years has built an IRS in a car with a rear track of only 52"...but didn't Jaguars have about that with the E-Type...and wasn't it in a self-contained cradle with inboard brakes and integral coil overs and all that stuff?

BAM - You bet it was.

26346529579_40f2eaafa8_z.jpg


Clean it up and weld her in and we're rolling in style. All kidding aside, it's not a bad idea. And it's been done, by a guy with a lot of skill and I like that build.


Design: It would be nice to get away from the solid rear axle to enhance handling and optimize the rear of the car (hopefully to match the front). So we get the tape measure and head to the JY as well, but pass by the Jaguar, and head for something a little newer...probably multi link and modern. It should at least have CV joints. I ended up with this mess.

26346530019_04d5009980_z.jpg


It's out of a Toyota Supra (MK3) - you get the Toyota differential, good geometry, and even some passive steer...but that subframe is rather specific to the Supra and won't fit in the 122.

So I built this:

31942725781_72bd2f8794_b.jpg


Shortened it up 6"...then revised the entire rear half of the car to handle the load paths that the rear end creates.

Revised frame, cross members etc to handle the loads. Look at that snubber on the original frame...it's there for a reason. You have to work through all of those details.

31863599372_d598c6ff63_b.jpg


Every detail that I can think of including reinforcing the front cross member attachment points inside and out, up and down to take the beating I'll give it when done.

I've hired a race engineer to work through the design and help me optimize the suspension. We've moved things around and this is version 3 of the design. So when you say that your parts all come from the same donor car...that's all well and good (mine come from two completely different cars) but it's all in the details. What I'm saying is there are a million details. Little stupid things that will trip you up and big things that will sink builds.

So to my way of thinking, putting an IRS in a car never designed for an IRS is not simple. It could be, but I don't want it to be too simple. Heck, putting 250 hp to the ground in a 122 means your doors are not always going to work right - I only had 135 WHP and managed to give the body a new set at a track day.
Click to expand...

I love your build and I really appreciate the feedback/admonishment. In no way do I want to sound flippant about how difficult this will be. I agree that your method is the best and if you sent me a CAD drawing I'd love to copy you ;-).

I'd say I fall somewhere in between the two schools of thought laid out. I know for a fact the 240sx suspension just has way too much spread and mounting points to make it an extremely straight forward build process. My thinking differs though in that the suspension linkages don't know what car they're under. Never will do. If I can manage to bolt the pieces into the 122 without changing their angles and critical reference points then I've hit my goal. I plan on tying it into the frame in whatever way is simplest, fabricating top mounts for the coil-overs as close to their original angle and position as possible. This might mean tubbing, might mean cutting, but at least I won't have to depend on my engineering skills to calculate scrub radius, instantaneous center, roll center, etc, and then fabricate something which i think will work and then hope I don't **** something up en medias res.

So, I want to copy and paste the suspension in its nascent state. If I can't do it there's always a solid axle upgrade and the pain of failure, lol.

My only fear is everyone's only fear: running out of money. Even fabricating things is $$$ over time. Steel. Filler rod. Argon. Sand paper...I could go on. I have more money than I've ever had to spend on a car and I'm spending that hard earned money on an absolutely ridiculous moon-shot project. I've spent half my life dreaming of doing something on this scale. I really don't think I'll crap out even if it gets difficult. However, I don't make a lot of money and my wife has only so much patience.

I should also mention, I'm depending on the track width widening. I don't see the downside to have some rubber beyond the body. This is obviously subjective and probably something controversial. I love functional fender flares (and points for alliteration) because it takes the pressure off of that shortening you had to do and tire width limits. As I mentioned at the outset, nothing excites me more than laying down fresh paint on a straight body, so making some custom fiberglass/carbon fiber fender flares sounds like a good day at the office.
 
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OK - that's helping me at least provide some insight. Things to not forget - the frame in the 122 isn't very complicated or very thick. The rails are no more than 16 ga. So keep that in mind and reinforce your mount points accordingly. Just keep visualizing the load paths and look at the original car (keep the shell as long as your wife will allow).

Things that really need to be computed are the roll centre of the rear and the anti-squat geometry of the rear. There is no anti-dive in the front geometry and no caster either. Just check them all and make sure you don't end up with something that lacks mechanical grip.

I think I can get 245's in the rear to articulate and would like to run a square tire set-up. Should be OK for me...but I have stretched the rear fender wells 3/4" as you see them to get the clearance.

My other thoughts relate to the front end. Your SX is a strut style front end...my concern is taking care of that load path in a 122. The known weak link is the inner fender. In the Amazon community, the stress crack that develops is known as "the crack of death". It sends many of them to the JY. Volvo as much as admitted that they had a problem when on the 123GT's and later 122S's they added a stiffening plate in the lower inner fender section by the firewall.

The front suspension loads and engine/trans weight etc are loaded into the fender via the subframe. Even in stock form, this tie in to the A pillar is awkward at best. If you go with the SX strut - then just keep this in mind and tie the load back to the A-Pillar. I've played with the idea in tape (normally my first stage of on car design), and there is room behind the fender mount for a revised upper fender connection boxing plate. I'd also box in the section behind the wheel at the bottom to keep that pendulum in place.

36904214052_c641549636_b.jpg


Something like above would work.
 
Encouraging to know I had those same thoughts and concerns. I have so much work to do on the powertrain outside of the car first to make sure I have what I think I have.

Here's some shots of the donor **** missile.

R4-vs0J_EP4Y1_aOfUx0yitRSYEUDrbL5EBsEiVM3VHGYYA0FIs2GwJXBPfxVg1JmaNTPT9eWAhN8m603s1IVA7UROhsg-SbsyqeAgIgGFFxXWNKrYaqpejA9Zzk3DD_tfbWlWmA56ODHel-ltWX5pLVTP-tsarci8XR_TpnUkjGflFC62yahRgn1Vh-x7MlgPpEiOE3WZq8pRgYMvm-KLIoWffVFrbn8Q47FeeszQb9yB3UFbqzBvbuXO4riAMKkjSRL8Bvy6kSswAzDpNdqEbB51f0oS01BWkh31Do4Cx4ExUvnonDET81FooDJoKSv086N8XlzSEU_LEA6ABbCjcxCqK4ib-P3QyL-i2D1_T9ykRsG3xUUtivbks60UDGa8L2wXH13YcbylAY9adoLXG4WTWANUnU8AhU3F6ckfk_7PAGhEDYxcpW0BmCPVrsMss_Sro32Ue_Q_5grLbiYDsLvD5i-Xpwlgi4of133NNIxdTi3_zfOHt_xR1y_XJ5oVP7-wRdT6Exq3gT6iA0xD01GZOv8hhjW-7cjihGwIIyydojHrneCQdU-FJSklh9I9_FZIS8MOAMQyibIFVCFW5GqoL1eHM277DBLyt-Ig=w1800-h1012-no


08c9iEruy51cuYY6Hz-8bh3Cd5Al8_Uwoj3G2MC0YomO-6WKAcrdpp231c30JHphIwaiwgrrhD1Wg896YN_K5RPEI_NkFj74dGfwNkXvs-pzsMB94D-_CVElCLnsVWxmYK3_6-ylFdhTmu2skXYYM0DL9QR8jbxt5sTi6avUvPuOWyLEJm8gyIYyriVHtz867aMc1J8II358W9yY9IYPdZFsF6Ko0-1ZyfaL7oBnZMFUVC30p2FceoqeJVucsGGLFWqlrNKGepg-kJRDX9hGufp1igPPA13L9kjrOT-P0jXNKtJoxjkL9wU7Ex898bLYIJ38DAoHk_Sah6Aa4zP3lSJu3KuwyfqTomsLePrBRCJnoWDLnqmOne9_iQJB8UlfkbyExLfGghV4Tc4NlaiAO5bqhlYwHUdXoF8xbKPf8byhpSCMtZIjH58plOmNz_K7uigelDKPxOmB59Yhzu22nTYjOUA2xMBPT71a2-OzKf6py4kLkp8KDbujyG4YmcQxe99j2g37EemXwPzJzJQ2lzfJhXxMX2-Jf5Cl7xUIiGdlA_pSN26NwuWZ4-P5tV3ZYywqKdi_Cm0JSwJixQBdh99i0oVcGbFQoA9g2gCmPw=w1800-h1012-no


I have the "crack of death" on my car. Didn't notice til after I bought it. Don't know how I missed it to be honest because I feel like I looked right at it. Haven't yet assessed the true depth of the damage, but it's torn for sure. Well, I can just add this to the list of things to do while I fix the crack. Seems to make sense. Did you end up committing to tubing the front or did you try a similar patch in the end? I might have to add some tubing if the strut mount doesn't give me secure feelings on that ancient sheet metal.

Now to wait for my new shrinker/stretcher to arrive to make this a whole heck of a lot easier. And to buy a bunch of sheet metal. $$$ here we come.

Also on my to-do list is to start making a rough polygonal 3D model of the amazon suspension and relevant undercarriages/frame/wheel wells. I'd feel a little easier about moving forward If I could visualize without having to crawl on the floor with hundreds of pounds of metal supported on the jack...Once done I could move onto the modeling of the sx suspension and just get a rough game plan.
 
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More pictures and the beginning of the body work on the grill begins:

Pictures of the crack:

1s2J_g_E6hYbfOFTzoWKRC46dFeQU7lEVdSizNrXLsGPyzBzKDk-9BMp2jxP0sFw7F2xk3cXtMJ7w-DMY3RdsB_SOP_XDLDR5QOA0NBCzvzgDHcnRztlei1RqAMbh4nnAkwIdXmsCuzVZZW3sm44YGId8F2bYPO8Sth2W4evKGNfgxsxZBAJeQOfbxBNZrtSFo0D7oyH9fAOZQ_71PKEsGk02gNXO7JyI856fc_vMn0yMWqQJ29bHnRScHbF_09xSGO64mao_cZYQyTNlhv-K2-jrsfl_ED8AgNpkgMe1GZZexIiUOyodvbe5cvifM51ob_-ErV7gU7OBzmCNR98is993aZb5DkdvfzMI7Bj5WUgl1OjTyz0Nu9_OGMYCV0a9sgLVH1EL_JAHgIihPurXH4y9D3h-VpivbrRj-Me8xY-g1Qr571TvfaKFf2gDr8OdkES9Et27Tqvzqs7J8rbUyauBGEljscHz4q-lzAprDZX3Ss7zh2sH6EDuYb2pjHB54UZJzi1-64ouojhOS3MyIb1-3FBkBBZbQDtWqvtviEmbC2Y5UsPg2mdxBcRbUt9Vg4ss-7Ldv5B5g0afLy9Ea1osEDBtLT9EyzPTIU0nQ=w1663-h935-no


S0wCFdNOG84Ty5CBsnud9DuBDRiVO-afID09iNLVoDHogFufyA_R6ZKXfNXdnawlUGprtSbfdEdbA3AieAsi1Agy5Z5fUgtRgzfrRmSUNn1NYrrdz7TGcL-JaLj2xXI9s-SCE7AWAmD99QNvJFhslE82uB22jE4eUbF4UfQscJS8MS3cUawWNzyeSoDVqiMVT3odwoMPNCss7-8bbrOrj8av_Nvc0Kg3QJF70tjIh0JihsvVl4O_flDoDxBLaLtnVD8XWN_WYTpenQPiyznMLx_15sb9yq49VBOqQk-GSGPerwj_52a6M9cMN9ZTq2EFSLWLCBcU4XLYteMq68BOnmPFeK-Pfxo2PEbECDrFM_q9CUeHzMrtaZNfyC9LXA-OypMdUq2t-7WXfzTz4GIbVbFiv9Kxi3LtUOS6wVg8Ss2AdPwExVzz9QuwJ-XDY4pnIwcqtEpLDzKtxhI0ZKEksTTtAmVygVSXRh0o0XJe2an5B6LU8IpNvHURttnMxBwbQxfWmV4dk2erwlXoW8KW2BRqgS3ZJHz7BMtr814el_AwuZ-QVy9T1OjLpq7Q18PhYjKDZHc_naO8CJxl_GZ0CdmFS189iVUdDnQV-WhzSw=w527-h935-no


Here's the grill:

HChZtjLwphAZeAIRakxQGIEZ-Jp6T3mV8RLwuYX5MmfewmyeDp5uEJvkn_7oras8a_DSGt_oMNclz0kXB0biT49OU2cXW_fpoHNDxcUQznoih5pf2LltrGy8N98k01LIXAVtBCtSDPrFA87vvKl18wvPa_iUDiZ7xO7eT0DcFxX1RN5T1tD0sbYFy9VwPcxMfkFg96Pd3cGkko_Ocb52ZDb4Df6BCwaRfnMY40kfDkwf0QPnl0lt8HUE8hqlpwmceXZh_RyuKQEV_UFCMAQSQqGR7IqXVmTJdTIz_ekr-xwiwry2AytrIYGOnTgudzMPTYGtarsHyvFdqmGqrOFCcMmZGztG-xZZwTk9pl-KU-wclVdBrPFwN4Eztx70Nylnrykhz4a9tGSgO9HLN0mZ8TOZWPRIJGqyJCmzVtCxZDAT0MwjlTRVJwdGCFu37JtRPFyHy3CS-jqEyUagXDmyJucXAYqEC4zWn2lYlpcy_VgU5WMhciURfFJOed-ABdW9ltRoWWbSdSUlnGV8QEp6-PvWjOKwGrAWDRW0R8aNr5xmumYFMloGUOWcctRwFl_ALFcUZLWCfwmup_4m9Hqd6AAZN99efx2m2T9hb4frIA=w527-h935-no
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The last one shows the remnants of the bird nest that was in the grill for who knows how long! Haha. Shocking how this is not rusted through completely. It's basically designed to trap water...Wondering if I should drill a drain into it? Either way, it's gonna take some serious smashing to get it somewhat straight.

I should probably start a build thread soon. Eat an elephant one bite at a time...
 
RolinOldies said:
I can not see any pic's
Maybe you need to resize them and post smaler ones?
Curioux about the crack also...
Click to expand...

I can see them fine on multiple devices right now. I had trouble viewing some of the pictures in some of my earlier posts too. I'm linking from Google Photos.
 
Sign out of your google acct and clear cookies and cache and they’re just boxes

Link to the album?

Or open sharing permissions and embed the images instead of linking the html
 
Wow. I suck at the internet. Here's a link to the album:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/FmoaoFy0Xe2PmC3Z2

I don't know how to embed them. I figured google will likely never go Photobucket on us, but in return the sharing permission is sometimes unclear. The sharing has been turned on.

Can you all see the earlier pictures in the thread of the car itself? I don't think I posted these ones any difference.
 
The early ones i see. I see the crack on the album but it's just a crack in the front. I ment about the 'crack of death' cannuc mentioned, was wondering about the exact location coz i think i may have one also.
Look like your car needs a lot of body work...
 
Looks like the crack extends even beyond the area where the light is shining through. What causes that ? I had an Amazon that had been hit in the passenger wheel some years ago, cracked the subframe and bent the suspension but the crack of death wasn't there.
 
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