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AQ130 (B20) rebuild for a 122

Yea it has the steel gears. I forgot to post a pic of them. They look mint!

I have that little copper pipe your referring too. I'll have to take a look at the head for the water pump.

I'll take a wire brush to the head later today. Ok to hit the tops of the Pistons as well? Just to see if it's carbon or sludge.
 
LloydDobler: Yea I really enjoy driving the car, it's just frustrating to hold traffic up while going up any hill/mountain haha. It need a little help, I just don't have the cash for a major overhaul/build.
 
You can't not to afford to rebuild. Reliability, mpg efficiency, and piece of mind for $1500~? Or you can go buy yourself a $1500 car and see what that gets you.

Take to machine shop. See what they say. Post on wanted for parts you need. That cyl #4 looks suspicious. Valves look toast. See what cam pops up in wanted. Etc....

While it's out zero deck that block. Clean the head so you have two flat mating surfaces. Then the b20 gurus will start telling you what head gasket to use exct..
 
I have a new c cam, its got some shelf wear, but it will clean/polish up nicely, also I have a set if IPD "Hi rev" lifters and pushrods that are slightly used, but again a little polish on the face and they'd be good as new.

The gasket sets are easy to get for cheap (ask around for people who have them that they aren't going to use), and I would guess that a full rebuild (no balance) with new pistons would run less than 1k if you source your parts right. Seems that bearings are getting spendy, and that estimate is with very little machine work. My guy bores at 50$ per hole, and will do a deck for 40$ and shave the head for the same, so your prices may vary. These prices don't include measurements… He always says "I'll bore it if you bring me the pistons, I'll deck it if you can tell me how much to take off, and I'll shave it however much you want, but you gotta bring me the numbers because it's double if I have to measure anything Volvo."
 
Well at least I have some time before I need the motor haha. Yesterday at noon we didn't have anything on the ground, 24hrs later...



Can you find the Amazon??? haha
 
Shoveled my way to the garage and snapped a few pics...





Took a wire brush very briefly to the valve faces. Most came off, still look a bit pitted though...





 
Canuck said:
I've put a few 274's in engines over the years. When I contacted Schneider last year, they were not selling their grinds at that time. Maybe things have changed, they still list them on their website. Has anyone bought one in the last year?
Click to expand...

I sent a B20 cam to them to be reground about a week ago. When I talked to Jerry over the phone, he didn't say much about lack of availability *except* that they don't have Volvo blanks on hand. Gotta send yours in.

Cameron
swedishrelics.com
Portland
 
volvorelix said:
I sent a B20 cam to them to be reground about a week ago. When I talked to Jerry over the phone, he didn't say much about lack of availability *except* that they don't have Volvo blanks on hand. Gotta send yours in.

Cameron
swedishrelics.com
Portland
Click to expand...

Late (74 ->) cams are way better than older ones. Older are just cast, newer Wizeman cam has hardened surface.
 
cwdodson88 said:
I have a new c cam, its got some shelf wear, but it will clean/polish up nicely, also I have a set if IPD "Hi rev" lifters and pushrods that are slightly used, but again a little polish on the face and they'd be good as new.

I'll message you on this Chris.
Click to expand...
 
When removing the cam/crank gear does it matter which you pull first?

Also how do I ID the cam? Really need to get batteries for my calipers!!!
 
It doesn't matter which gear you first.

The cam should be marked on the back. Sometimes they're marked on the front too.
 
sspony said:
cwdodson88 said:
I have a new c cam, its got some shelf wear, but it will clean/polish up nicely, also I have a set if IPD "Hi rev" lifters and pushrods that are slightly used, but again a little polish on the face and they'd be good as new.

I'll message you on this Chris.
Click to expand...

Just a few bucks a piece...why reuse lifters? Best way to wipe a cam I can think of.
Click to expand...
 
Still can't see the part of the head that sticks out over the front of the block. The car water pump sits under it with a couple of rubber rings to seal the two holes.
Kinda looks like one hole is plugged and the other has a bolt or plug in it.
Makes me think it's a car head someone put on? Or maybe the older Penta heads were drilled like a car and plugged?
No big deal as long as it seals against the water pump.
 
Canuck said:
sspony said:
Just a few bucks a piece...why reuse lifters? Best way to wipe a cam I can think of.
Click to expand...

He mentioned that he was on a tight budget here. Refacing the lifters is not difficult, just time consuming, these have only been run for 800-1000 miles and have very little wear. I wouldn't hesitate to resurface and use then again.

And sspony- the new lifters are cheap, 90$ for the set including shipping. And I'd be more than happy to split the pushrods/lifters. I know how hard it is to get from a-b on a budget.
Click to expand...
 
Thanks cwdodson88! Still trying to get any idea of what shape this motor is in. I'll know more about what I want to do with it as I tear it down.

Bobbyz, I'll try to take a closer look at the head. It's been apart before but I can't tell if any machine work was done yet. Possible someone could have swapped heads. Anyone have any info on the number I showed in the pic?
 
Should be able to post measurements tomorrow evening. Plan to measure the following:

1) Overall head thickness
2) Intake/exhaust valves
3) Cylinder bore


Let me know if I'm forgetting anything. Thanks again for the help/input/info!
 
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