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Old 09-23-2018, 12:30 PM   #51
hiperfauto
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nel621 View Post
With all of the 240s that were made and many people wanting to keep their cars as OE as possible one would think a company like VP Autoparts would produce the necessary clips to reintsall the stainless trim. Maybe we should write to them?
The windshield trim clips are still available from Volvo. They come as a kit even though the pic only shows 2.

https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts...lip-kit-270148

VP has them for less.

http://212.247.61.152/us/main.aspx?p...e&artno=270148

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Originally Posted by Redwood Chair View Post
Fixed and don't know why the would since the rubber surround part is NLA as well.
The rubber seal is also still available but expensive.

http://212.247.61.152/us/main.aspx?p...&artno=1254562

Edit:

There are 2 clip kits. VP says to use 270147 for cars -'85 and 270148 '86-. The parts catalog shows both kits fit early cars and that 270147 is for cars without a tint stripe, 270148 is for cars with a tint stripe. 270147 is NLA from Volvo.

http://212.247.61.152/us/main.aspx?p...e&artno=270147

Last edited by hiperfauto; 09-23-2018 at 12:37 PM..
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Old 09-23-2018, 06:17 PM   #52
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This is all good info. Well done.
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Old 09-24-2018, 08:44 PM   #53
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Crushed! I'm bummed.


Don't feel bad. I harvested the door and quarter windows out of that car. It wasn't as nice as the pictures showed..

Just cut off a set of sedan quarters and splice them in.
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Old 09-24-2018, 09:11 PM   #54
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Don't feel bad. I harvested the door and quarter windows out of that car. It wasn't as nice as the pictures showed..

Just cut off a set of sedan quarters and splice them in.
Been thinking that but........ I am headed to Eugene now getting my 1/4 and who knows what when I am there in the AM.
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Old 09-26-2018, 01:01 AM   #55
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Eugene and back. Got the 1/4 from mechanicman.
I was moving pretty slow after a long drive and sleeping in my van. Not by the river, but by the freeway at a rest stop. Lot of work but glad I got it.
I will add pics later. Not in any rush to get started on the swap. First thing is getting things as straight as possible. Then evaluate what needs to be done.
Next road trip the van will have a stereo.
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Old 09-26-2018, 01:20 AM   #56
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by the freeway at a rest stop.
I've had to do that many times as well.
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Old 09-26-2018, 11:40 PM   #57
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Still in the van. Lots of work to do.
No room in the shop. So it waits it turn.
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Old 09-27-2018, 10:56 AM   #58
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That's a big hunk of metal! What's with all of the license plates?
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Old 09-27-2018, 03:56 PM   #59
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Be sure to buy a spotweld cutter and a body saw.

Your piece of mind will thank you.

Cut the extraneous pieces off the replacement to get an idea of where the spotwelds are and how it goes together. You can then remove the quarter off the car much more easily.
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Old 09-27-2018, 04:08 PM   #60
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I would massage the damaged panel back into shape as good as possible. Then if necessary cut out the lest amount of panel to make a good repair. A flange tool is handy for tight overlap weld.
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Old 09-27-2018, 06:59 PM   #61
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Originally Posted by quillc View Post
Be sure to buy a spotweld cutter and a body saw.

Your piece of mind will thank you.

Cut the extraneous pieces off the replacement to get an idea of where the spotwelds are and how it goes together. You can then remove the quarter off the car much more easily.
Spot weld cutter is on my list. Body saw, air saw? https://www.amazon.com/s?k=air+saw&h...l_6cpi2w5dct_e
also on my list.
Just bought a cordless sawzall for the PnP car (RIP) it'll still come in handy. Used a plug in sawzall in Eugene as well as one of my HF death wheel. So nasty sounding compared to my "stay at home" DeWalt.

I figured the same, take apart the "new" pieces and use each in part or whole when reconstructing the car.

According to one of my favorite books "Keys to metal bumping" the old one is fixable.
According to my logic and how I have limited experience its nice to have the extra piece.
Either way I'm not scared. I probably should be.
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Old 09-27-2018, 07:19 PM   #62
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I have this spot-weld cutter kit: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002XML5HK...538089525&sr=1



It works really well. The center piece is spring loaded and collapses under pressure so that you have one solid plug when complete. Each bit lasts for a few dozen spot welds.


Body saw = air saw. The body saws use a short little blade so you can get into the crevasses easily. I use mine a lot for a wide variety of jobs. I have this one: https://www.amazon.com/Ingersoll-Ran...70_&dpSrc=srch


Works well. Makes cutting panels out much easier as you don't have to maneuver a big saw with a big blade. Think jig saw for body work.


For exposed body work, I typically butt weld (via the many-tiny-welds method) and then -grind the weld down. For floor pans and such or some patches where I can't access the back, I will flange the edge of the panel and lay the patch in. I use a punch/flange https://www.amazon.com/Ingersoll-Ran...70_&dpSrc=srch
although i have the cheaper HF model that works well enough.


Be sure to use weld through primer (I like the copper stuff). I also then coat the back side of most panels with Eastwood's internal frame coating or their rust encapsulator depending upon accessibility.


Have fun and be patient. It'll take a lot of setup to get it just right and look nice.
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Old 09-27-2018, 07:20 PM   #63
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That's a big hunk of metal! What's with all of the license plates?
I have a collection of collections. Want a plate? Mostly Wa. some Ca. Or. Id.
I'll post a pic of my shed. (leave you hanging)

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Originally Posted by nel621 View Post
I would massage the damaged panel back into shape as good as possible. Then if necessary cut out the lest amount of panel to make a good repair. A flange tool is handy for tight overlap weld.
I'm thinking you are correct. I'm just not sure about butt vs. lap. I have always butted my patch panels, not that I've done a whole bunch. I suppose the room for error increases when you do a whole panel vs. the little patch panels I have done.
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Old 09-27-2018, 07:48 PM   #64
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Originally Posted by NONHOG View Post
I have a collection of collections. Want a plate? Mostly Wa. some Ca. Or. Id.
I'll post a pic of my shed. (leave you hanging)



I'm thinking you are correct. I'm just not sure about butt vs. lap. I have always butted my patch panels, not that I've done a whole bunch. I suppose the room for error increases when you do a whole panel vs. the little patch panels I have done.


The whole thing at the 'B' pillar corner.
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Folks on here don't know a good deal when they see it.
how psi stock cna support?

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Old 09-27-2018, 08:02 PM   #65
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Awesome.
You missed an opportunity for nude reflection in paint when taking the picture
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Old 09-27-2018, 11:38 PM   #66
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I'll post a pic of my shed. (leave you hanging )
Cheap siding.
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Old 09-27-2018, 11:45 PM   #67
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Originally Posted by quillc View Post
Think jig saw for body work.

Have fun and be patient. It'll take a lot of setup to get it just right and look nice.
Good info! Thanks.
When removing
I brought my jig saw, just in case.
Patience can be a problem with me. I will try. LOL
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Old 09-28-2018, 08:41 AM   #68
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I think butt welding is good for small sections. But if you're doing a long section you'll have stronger repair and less chance of a wavy panel. The small repair sections I did to my coupe were butt welded. Panel clamps will come in handy if you're going for the whole panel.
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Old 10-08-2018, 07:02 PM   #69
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The whole thing at the 'B' pillar corner.
Inside the door jamb? As to not risk getting a wavy 1/4 by sectioning?
Are you suggesting a cut line or free both pieces from spot welds?
Curious and open minded to repair ideas
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Old 10-08-2018, 07:03 PM   #70
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Originally Posted by nel621 View Post
I think butt welding is good for small sections. But if you're doing a long section you'll have stronger repair and less chance of a wavy panel. The small repair sections I did to my coupe were butt welded. Panel clamps will come in handy if you're going for the whole panel.
Have some!
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Old 10-08-2018, 07:05 PM   #71
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Been searching but not finding any threads on 240 1/4 replacement. Be nice to see some pics on how others have done it and what they ran into.

Plenty of non Volvo Youtube videos.
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Old 10-08-2018, 08:58 PM   #72
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Unless you take very good measurements and are a good welder I would not mess with the door jam area. If you're off by a little your gaps will be off, the door won't close properly, etc. If you do go that far cut the 1/4 about an inch back leaving the jam/ striker area. Me , I would pull it and of anything just replace a section from the rear.
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Old 10-08-2018, 09:22 PM   #73
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This way, a lot of workhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WtF-YlLvh3w
or this way less work

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ZPljPmW7tE&t=1309s
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Old 10-08-2018, 10:06 PM   #74
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Originally Posted by NONHOG View Post
Inside the door jamb? As to not risk getting a wavy 1/4 by sectioning?
Are you suggesting a cut line or free both pieces from spot welds?
Curious and open minded to repair ideas
More that a mid panel butt splice in a unibody will work and show a line in the finish eventually unless 'stepped' or backed with a stitch welded strip both of which create a cavity where rust can form.

So yea best is a full panel swap all the way back to the factory spot welds if at all possible.

At least that's what the pros at the collision shop tell me.

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Old 10-21-2018, 09:47 PM   #75
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Drilling and/or grinding spot welds is fun. I wish it would never end.
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