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Which Red Block for a starting point.

John V said:
because stroke alone does only one thing....more rotating weight.. because the joural is further from the center of crank--that is the definition of stroke..

Its easy to see with a simple thought exercise.

take one 2.5 with 100mm stroke and 5.2 in compression..and XX cam
Take another with 72mm stroke but 11.3 in compression..and XX cam

Pretty easy to see which is going to make more torque.
Torque is incidental to POP! Pop being what happens when you squeeze the contents of the cylinder and light it off..

I am always thinking of making more POP per pop...
Click to expand...
Stroke makes volume.
Long rod long stroke motors make more torque all else being equal.
 
miguels244 said:
Stroke makes volume.
Long rod long stroke motors make more torque all else being equal.
Click to expand...

Who are you mansplaining this to Miguel?

You changed the premise. Long rods DO make moar torx..

Much blah blah over the last 50 years about long stroke vs short stroke..So much BS...
But there is no argument about serious weight reduction in reciprocating weight..
In the trade press 70-100g reduction gets several !!!s..
450g just gets the engine builder guys I know to giggling.
 
John V said:
Who are you mansplaining this to Miguel?

You changed the premise. Long rods DO make moar torx..

Much blah blah over the last 50 years about long stroke vs short stroke..So much BS...
But there is no argument about serious weight reduction in reciprocating weight..
In the trade press 70-100g reduction gets several !!!s..
450g just gets the engine builder guys I know to giggling.
Click to expand...

You...
For saying stroke only increases mass.
It also increases displacement.
If you don’t change anything it also changes CR.

Truth is if you want long rod ratios the simpler route is de stroke.
Packing a big crank and long rods into a crank case can get tricky.

None of which is Germaine to my original question.
The answer is that...
No, there is no reason either base motor is fundamentally better for a rebuild...unless you are trying for a stock rebuild, in which case you can probably still get stock rebuild kits.
That’s assuming you are willing to put squirrels in an old block...
Which reminds me.
Is the squirted jig you built still floating around?
 
[fwiw2 - There was also a '93 240 wagon in row 2 with the dashboard freshly removed, but fully intact blower & A/C, plus I think a good engine wiring harness, if you're thinking about an A/C upgrade. Strangely, I don't see it listed anymore, but it was recently added -- I don't know if someone bought the whole thing, or if it was mistakenly unlisted.]
 
miguels244 said:
You...
For saying stroke only increases mass.
It also increases displacement.
If you don?t change anything it also changes CR.

Truth is if you want long rod ratios the simpler route is de stroke.
Packing a big crank and long rods into a crank case can get tricky.

None of which is Germaine to my original question.
The answer is that...
No, there is no reason either base motor is fundamentally better for a rebuild...unless you are trying for a stock rebuild, in which case you can probably still get stock rebuild kits.
That?s assuming you are willing to put squirrels in an old block...
Which reminds me.
Is the squirted jig you built still floating around?
Click to expand...

Some version or versions still are..I made several more so there would be less wait and to deal with naughty boys who can't return the favor and send the thing(s0 back>
Kebwood chair who goes to the post office daily asked to take over the mailing ..
Funny thing is I may have to "barrow" my own kit here pretty soon cause I'm doing 3 or 4 bottom end builds...all "warm" n.a....

And to keep the record clear I said that increased stroke in and of itself..alone...ALL other things being equal.....and that torque is made in other ways...
I could give an excellent example but it was pre-internet so it doesn't count..

But the 2300 5:1 long stroke versus an 2300 11:1 short stroke should clarify>
Don't trip over unimportant details, the point is a motor makes what we human beans choose...
which Redblocks is bestist is like how many angles can dance on the head of a needle.
 
John V said:
Some version or versions still are..I made several more so there would be less wait and to deal with naughty boys who can't return the favor and send the thing(s0 back>
Kebwood chair who goes to the post office daily asked to take over the mailing ..
Funny thing is I may have to "barrow" my own kit here pretty soon cause I'm doing 3 or 4 bottom end builds...all "warm" n.a....

And to keep the record clear I said that increased stroke in and of itself..alone...ALL other things being equal.....and that torque is made in other ways...
I could give an excellent example but it was pre-internet so it doesn't count..

But the 2300 5:1 long stroke versus an 2300 11:1 short stroke should clarify>
Don't trip over unimportant details, the point is a motor makes what we human beans choose...
which Redblocks is bestist is like how many angles can dance on the head of a needle.
Click to expand...

Angels John, angels.
And it’s the head of a pin, needles dont have heads.

;-)
 
Back on topic: find a 95 NA low mile grandma car; use the AW71L and you should have the squirter unmolested "reasonably straight" bore block you can pump up with H beams and smarter pistons.......
 
DET17 said:
Back on topic: find a 95 NA low mile grandma car; use the AW71L and you should have the squirter unmolested "reasonably straight" bore block you can pump up with H beams and smarter pistons.......
Click to expand...


Dooooood.
I hain't follow the reasoning..
"Find" a specific 95 low milage blah blah..

vs
drill and tap in approx 24-30min any block you happen to have from 1960-----> onwards..

Seems like the time investment just search would nix the idea in my book, then going and getting, paying etc..

What is the point?
My reccomemdation to Mr Engineer Miguelito is "build whatever the fawk you have handy.., its whatchoo put in that makes the difference"
 
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