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Old 05-26-2018, 05:40 PM   #276
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Engine's out!

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Old 06-02-2018, 10:06 PM   #277
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Neat, the BW55 transmission mount bracket bolts right up to the AW30-40e. It really looks like the new box is the same length as the AW71L I had in there, so I might be able to get away with no mods to the x-member .
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Old 06-08-2018, 09:14 PM   #278
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Engine's in!



I was able to use the BW55 tranny mount bracket with the crossmember in the AW70/71 location (dual mount holes). I had to use a 1" spacer to mount the bracket though, since the AW30-40e is juuuuuust a shave shorter than the AW71L. The driveshaft is about an inch away too, so I may just machine a spacer at work. The stock swaybar worked fine too, with a 3/4" spacer to drop it slightly.
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Old 06-09-2018, 07:53 AM   #279
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Nice work! So the Homer conversion mounts got it done? Are you going to boost this whiteblock or keep it NA?

Last.... engine management MOTRONIC or custom?
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Old 06-09-2018, 08:25 AM   #280
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Thanks, I'm stoked! Yessir, Homer mounts all the way .

Engine management...that's a confusing subject right now. The car is currently wired up for MS2 with wasted spark, which is what I was running on my B21. To convert it to 6-cyl operation would be just a quick solder job to add another spark output. I do have a soft spot for swaps on stock ecus though, especially when it looks like it would be possible to DIY-tune it. So the best answer I can give is...I'm not sure yet, lol.

As for boost, it will happen at some point I hope. I'll have to make a manifold, get injectors, etc. I'll start amassing parts first .

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Old 06-09-2018, 02:07 PM   #281
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I sold my MS2 V3.57 which I hoped to use on my 5 cylinder B5245T5..... but from a LOT of study of MSExtra, I determined that it could not effectively fuel sequentially, which is what the 5 & 6 cylinders do with MOTRONIC. From my investigation it takes at minimum MS3 Pro I believe, to handle sequential fuel. MS2 can handle the spark fairly easily.... just not fueling. I won't try to batch fuel the whiteblocks.

Chat with LANKKU over in Finland.... he has mastered these 6 cylinders and transplants to earlier Bricks.
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Old 06-09-2018, 05:27 PM   #282
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The 960 harness/ecu I have is an early one (94), so it's M1.8, which is batch fire. The wiring diagram shows that the injectors are run by only two INJ outputs from the ecu. I do love playing with sequential fueling, but batch is just fine with small injectors. I'd gain a bunch of smoothness if I went to MS3 or MS3X/MS3pro, even on batch, but my budget is just not able to handle the upgrade this year.

I'm really hoping to have this running by july, so I'm going to have to make up my mind soon.
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Old 06-10-2018, 11:06 AM   #283
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Sweet!!
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Old 06-10-2018, 12:58 PM   #284
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One disclaimer about Homer mounts though. If you're using the AW30-40e (like I am), you need to tweak the auto dipstick slightly, because it rests FIRMLY against the side of the trans tunnel, just underneath the brake booster kinda. It's bolted to the bellhousing, so I just removed the bolt and pried a bit with a screwdriver. Just enough to give it 1/8" clearance so I can actually get the stick out. Maybe it's just the way I did my trans mount, but it's worth keeping an eye out anyway. This is not a criticism against the Homer mounts, promise. I know they're originally for a manual car, so the auto introduces a minor variable.
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Old 06-25-2018, 09:22 PM   #285
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Solved a minor issue. I want the stock coolant gauge to work, but the 240 coolant gauge sensor doesn't have anywhere to go on the B6304S without extra work. Mine is an early engine, so there's a sensor on the back of the head (between the engine and firewall) for the ECU and a sensor up front in the thermostat housing for the 960 gauge. I don't want to use the rear sensor, because it's in a horrible spot if anything happens, but my thermo housing only had one port. I found a 99+ ME7 thermo housing from a 2000 V70T at the junkyard...and it has two ports.



The top port is M12, and the lower port is M10. A GM coolant temp sensor from virtually any GM between 2000 and 2010 also seems to be M12 (or the caveman equivalent), and fits right into the top port. I pulled one from an LS truck motor, since they're really easy to access. Driver's side head, right in front. In the lower port I put a VW/Audi coolant gauge sensor (part # 027 919 501), which apparently has the same range as the stock 240 one. It's marked 120*C on the side, and so is the stocker. Time will tell.

If it's not obvious yet, I've decided to run MS2 on this instead of the stock M1.8 box. I feel that it'll be simpler to get everything up and running, and I can harvest all the connectors I need from the stock harness.
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Old 06-26-2018, 08:13 AM   #286
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Those GM LS coolant temp sensors also fit redblocks in place of the stock CTS. That was my plan for the megasquirt anyways..

I was wondering what years those t-stat housings came on. I don't really want to hack in a 960 temp gauge in my cluster. Not keeping M4.4 long term, if at all. Mine might be getting a turbo right off the start.
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Old 06-26-2018, 08:34 AM   #287
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The housings seem to be on early ME7 cars (99+), because at my local yard I could only find one, but there were multiple early-mid 2000s V70s there. I was surprised to find it.
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Old 07-07-2018, 02:27 PM   #288
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Really, Volvo...you need a 20" socket extension with a 1/2" socket end on it to get the transmission dipstick out? This is bizarre, and it's a tight fit for sure.

Last edited by Broke4speed; 07-07-2018 at 07:28 PM..
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Old 07-08-2018, 04:43 PM   #289
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Figured out my ignition today. Since I'll be running MS2 (v3.57), I'm not going sequential injection (too kludgey on MS2 IMO). This leaves me with waste spark, which I'm fine with...but I wanted to keep it simple. I was going to use the ME7 COPs with the three logic outputs I have, but then I found out that the S/V40s have a neat little wasted spark COP setup, which is pretty much the same as the 960 stuff, but with a second spark output. I can use one of the M1.8 power stages without any extra splicing . I've always liked this style of COP, so I am going to try it out.

I figure why not, the worst that can happen is that it doesn't run.

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Old 07-08-2018, 08:05 PM   #290
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That's pretty interesting. Never seen that setup before!
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Old 07-09-2018, 12:07 AM   #291
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I hadn't until today, haha. I was checking all and any volvos I could find at the yard, and decided to stop ignoring the 40s. Imagine my surprise when I found those coilpacks, and that they came with the same connectors as the 960 ones do. I now have all new connectors that aren't rotten or brittle. The stock coil valley cover won't fit over them, but that's no big deal IMO.
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Old 07-10-2018, 07:13 PM   #292
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I had to change the arrangement of the coils, so that the proper cylinders would be paired. This required some different plug wires...and of course, my local yard had no pre-99 cars to pillage. I made due with some wires off a MK4 VW 2.0L, which happen to be a direct fit (although I did have to cut the rubber seals off the top of the S40 wires to use them on the VW wires). Turned out reasonably decent, so I'm happy. I'm not much of a 'tidy and tucked' guy when it comes to my engine bays, so I'll probably leave it uncovered. I have an 'easy to work on' fetish, so I like having everything right out in the open.

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Old 07-11-2018, 08:37 PM   #293
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Modded the cannibalized injector harness and stripped down the coil harness to three connectors and one power stage. I'm committed to MS2 now...I've hacked up the stock M1.8 wiring.

The stock M1.8 inj harness has a very odd arrangement: 6,5,3 on one bank, and 4,2,1 on the other. I like to have my banks alternate while firing so I swapped 3 and 4 around. The new wiring is: 6,5,4 and 3,2,1.

This weekend is a getaway trip with the wif, but once I get back...it won't take me long to wire it up .
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Old 07-21-2018, 08:38 PM   #294
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Well, it runs!

I REALLY hate VR sensors for triggering, and may yet swap to a crank wheel with a hall sender. I'm getting some sync losses, of the 'reason 2' variety, and every time it misses, the damn ecu seems to reset. I'm using a brand new harness, everything is shielded properly, the trim pots are set to '0', and I'm using a 10k inline resistor. I tried a 270ohm shunt and a 1k ohm shunt, but it didn't get any better than just the 10k alone. I'm going to try bumping that value up a bit and see what happens.

Now I just need to order a new dipstick (again...), get a new alternator, sort the too-short driveshaft, get a high-pressure PS line made, etc etc etc.

Still, I'm pretty damn stoked to hear it vroom. The B6 with open headers is LOUD, lol.
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Old 07-22-2018, 08:49 AM   #295
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Thats exciting! I've been trying to get my C10 done and out of the way so I can get started on my B6 swap..needs to be done before winter at least.
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Old 07-22-2018, 06:19 PM   #296
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Video proof of it running .



It still needs a ton of work, but I didn't want to go much further without confirming it was a decent engine, and that I had the wiring right. Considering this is a totally untuned MSQ, without the trigger angle set (put it to 90*), and no fuel adjustments...it fires up pretty well. I had a bunch of sync losses to work through, and I hate VR sensors because they're so damn 'dirty', but I got no losses on that startup .
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Old 07-23-2018, 11:11 AM   #297
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That's freaking awesome! Congrats!

Sounds pretty wicked like that :D
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Old 07-23-2018, 11:41 AM   #298
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Thanks!
I've been around all sorts of uncorked cars before, but I had to have earplugs in for this video. There's just something about the specific frequency of that engine that made my head hurt, lol.

I realized I erred though, so credit is due to The Poi for his MSQ. The one in my MS2 is based on his, so it's actually a 'tuned' file. That would explain how it revs so nicely.

This is what the bay looks like now. I've cleaned up the wiring as much as I could, but I'm still pretty happy with it. The stock plug cover will fit, with a tweak or two.

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Old 07-30-2018, 04:25 PM   #299
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It's been a ****ty week, so I've been spending time in the garage swallowing my feelings.

The engine is buttoned up, and all fluids have been filled. I broke the d**n dipstick again, so I have no idea how much oil is in it...but I know there's at least 6L. The replacement shows up this week so I'll check it then. Next up is to finish the tranny cooler lines, driveshaft spacer, hook up the shift linkage, and install the PoiShifter.



Yep, there's no timing belt cover. I hate not having quick access to important parts of the engine, and I've NEVER had issues running without them. Maybe it'll happen one day, which will be an easy diagnosis/repair...since I won't have to disassemble anything to fix it ;).
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Old 08-02-2018, 02:02 PM   #300
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I like the more finished look of having all the covers on the engine, besides it's super easy on these engines to just pull the cover. Nothing like a Honda where you gotta pull all the drive belts and crank pulley just to get the timing cover off.
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