YASVT (Yet Another Sixteen Valve Turbo) - now 16V Whiteblock (LS) - Page 7

nathaninwa · 07-08-2011, 10:33 PM

Thanks John, looks like Ill be doing a couple one off plenums!

JohnMc · 07-09-2011, 10:38 PM

Double post. Sort of how I left that alternator on the counter at the PnP and had to go back to get it.

JohnMc · 07-09-2011, 10:38 PM

Remote reservoir PS pump on, intake manifold now fits.

I also got some cute littler alternator from a 940, seems to be a direct fit, it's a fair amount smaller, and it's 100A vs. 80A from the larger 240 alternator. I put it on, it seems fine. It was a little snug between the turbo and alternator before, plus the alternator would hit the oil pressure sender when you tried to get it loose enough to take the belts off.

Messed around with a throttle spool and got that tweaked around and fit onto Nathan's manifold.

Also got an A/C return line from a 940, instead of going straight up from the compressor (where it ran into Nathan's intake manifold) and over the top of the motor in the 240 style, it goes down, has a flex line across the crossmember, to a fairly out of the way hard line along the far frame rail and up to the receiver/drier. It doesn't fit perfectly on a 240, since it's a little narrower, but I think it will work well with a tweak or two.

linuxman51 · 07-09-2011, 10:40 PM

sounds like it worked so well you needed a double post

JohnMc · 07-12-2011, 12:55 PM

I'm 95% resigned to putting the same exhaust side back onto the car. I'm running out of time and money, that ram's horn hearder isn't going to fit in well with A/C and I'm not really wanting to bother with making new oil lines and DP for a new turbo right now, so I think the log mani and Chinese GT30R are going to go back on.

I guess I'll tackle a front mount and different turbo next year. So I'll just see how much it's better with the head, cams, intake, and electronics upgrades.

linuxman51 · 07-12-2011, 01:21 PM

should be a lot better.

JohnMc · 07-12-2011, 02:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DNAsEqUeNcE

I dunno man, that surge sounded nasty.

I'm not entirely sure that was surge, might have been some MS hiccups. They seemed more likely to occur when the engine was cooler (E85 seems to like a hot motor?), and when the motor was nice and hot it would crack off real clean full boost pulls. Which makes me sort of think it wasn't surge? And if it was, maybe improving the flow through the head (intake, ports, cams, up until it hits the log) might help?

I just need to get that log mani welded back up with something better than my 110V MIG. Maybe I should troll CL for a better welder, and run some 220V out to the garage. Or jsut take it to a welding shop, probably the better idea.

Texas240 · 07-12-2011, 10:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnMc

I'm not entirely sure that was surge, might have been some MS hiccups. They seemed more likely to occur when the engine was cooler (E85 seems to like a hot motor?), and when the motor was nice and hot it would crack off real clean full boost pulls. Which makes me sort of think it wasn't surge? And if it was, maybe improving the flow through the head (intake, ports, cams, up until it hits the log) might help?

I just need to get that log mani welded back up with something better than my 110V MIG. Maybe I should troll CL for a better welder, and run some 220V out to the garage. Or jsut take it to a welding shop, probably the better idea.

if you want me to, send it to me and I'll weld it back up. Shipping both ways will be cheaper then buying a 220v welder

linuxman51 · 07-13-2011, 08:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnMc

I'm not entirely sure that was surge, might have been some MS hiccups. They seemed more likely to occur when the engine was cooler (E85 seems to like a hot motor?), and when the motor was nice and hot it would crack off real clean full boost pulls. Which makes me sort of think it wasn't surge? And if it was, maybe improving the flow through the head (intake, ports, cams, up until it hits the log) might help?

I just need to get that log mani welded back up with something better than my 110V MIG. Maybe I should troll CL for a better welder, and run some 220V out to the garage. Or jsut take it to a welding shop, probably the better idea.

or an exhaust shop.

SquareD · 07-13-2011, 08:38 AM

I don't know if this has been discussed, but is the log mani better for flows than a 90+ with an adapter flange?

DNAsEqUeNcE · 07-13-2011, 08:40 AM

eh.......... not really

JohnMc · 07-13-2011, 10:46 AM

Yeah, I'm not exactly sure how *bad* the log mani is, but the air does have to sort of mill about angrily in the log for a while before it gets the idea to go out the flange. It might not actually be as bad as it mentally seems to be.

The advantages of the log are all in the initial cost (although I've had to have mine flattened twice so far by a machine shop) and the packaging - they're very small and fit into a very small space.

Aron - But then I'd have a stick welder! And I could make sliders for the 4Runners, things like that.

Texas240 · 07-13-2011, 01:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnMc

Yeah, I'm not exactly sure how *bad* the log mani is, but the air does have to sort of mill about angrily in the log for a while before it gets the idea to go out the flange. It might not actually be as bad as it mentally seems to be.

The advantages of the log are all in the initial cost (although I've had to have mine flattened twice so far by a machine shop) and the packaging - they're very small and fit into a very small space.

Aron - But then I'd have a stick welder! And I could make sliders for the 4Runners, things like that.

Stick welder = poor mans welder

olov · 07-13-2011, 02:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SquareD

I don't know if this has been discussed, but is the log mani better for flows than a 90+ with an adapter flange?

Quote:

Originally Posted by DNAsEqUeNcE

eh.......... not really

...90+(and pre90) are garbage, runner size is too small, and the sharp bends are horrible. actually the "collector" on a stock manifold aren't much better than what a log is - the air is still trying to figure out which way is out. log is better. not perfect for sure, but better than stock hands down imo

JohnMc · 08-23-2011, 11:38 AM

I guess I've been posting updates in the SE(X) thread, instead of here...

Head is on, exhaust side is on, waiting on a few odds and ends to finish out the intake side.

Currently wading through the engine wiring. Over time, I've been using less and less of the stock harness, and adding more of my stuff. Got sick of the unused wiring, and the new wiring outside the looms. Plus, I'll need to add a fair amount of new stuff this time around:
- individual wires for the injectors intead of the single LH fat gray wire that fires all of them at once
- COP wiring
- DSM CAS wiring

So I stripped the casings off all the stock wiring and I'm picking out the circuits I no loner need and removing them (AMM, PCV heater, Bosch ignition, some random two-wire plug that was always unused by the block dist, stock NB O2 wiring). And inside the passenger footwell I am getting rid of the rats nest that is the combined EZK and LH harness. Just picking off one wire at a time that goes through the firewall, figuring out what it is, and either labelling and clipping it, or removing it. Got through about 80% of it last night, it's pretty close to having that mess out of there. It's a little intimidating to see the huge mass of wiring under there, but just doing it one at a time and it clears out quicker than you'd think.

Then to wire up the new components, re-loom the wiring under the hood, and start trying to get the MS3X box configured (PM in to gross polluter - hopefully he can give me a nice starter MS3X MSQ so I'm not starting from scratch).

Other than that - still need to:
- hook the DP back up
- install the timing belt and accessory drive belts - notable that I now have a smaller drive pulley - might need new belts?
- install the intake manifold and FPR

JW240 · 08-23-2011, 12:06 PM

About the underdrive pulley, i used 900 mm long belts over the alt and waterpump and lengthened the tensioner about 10-15 mm (stock belts were 940 mm). With shorter belts it can work with the stock tensioner i guess but then the alt would have been a bit close to the oil filter and oil cooler plate. Note that I use the stock 240 water pump pulley, the big one, not the smaller turbo version. I have the same pulley as you have (just for 8v though), it was ordered together with the 16v one you have.

JohnMc · 08-23-2011, 12:09 PM

Nice, I'll try that if my original belts don't work. I also swapped the alternator to the smaller 100A Nippodenso style from a late model 940, so that may make a diffreence as well. I have a new A/C belt sitting around somewhere, I got it a couple of years ago from FCP as a replacement, but it never fit, too short. So maybe it will work now.

Texas240 · 08-23-2011, 01:28 PM

How do you think I felt when I did mine.

JohnMc · 08-23-2011, 01:37 PM

For some slight additional fun, my whole engine harness was swapped in from a 940T by some previous owner (or their mechanic). So there are some snipped, spliced, and plain unused wires here and there. There was even a 2 foot section of heavy 2 gauge wire leading from the starter terminal up toward the firewall, where it was cut and taped off.

Mine won't really be that much simpler once done, since I'm adding about as much as I'm taking out, but at least it will all be functional. And not redundant. No more unused wiring tucked all over the place.

I'm trying to think of ways to use the unused dash lights now. Like the CEL, the upshift indicator. Maybe a lean mixture warning light and a shift light? MS3X has a ridiculous number of outputs jsut waiting to be configured via Tunerstuido - no need to open the case, solder jumpres, configure transitor outputs, add wires, they're all there already in the new output plug pigtail.

Texas240 · 08-23-2011, 02:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnMc

MS3X has a ridiculous number of outputs jsut waiting to be configured via Tunerstuido - no need to open the case, solder jumpres, configure transitor outputs, add wires, they're all there already in the new output plug pigtail.

only if ms2 had so many outputs

Manbeard · 08-23-2011, 02:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Texas240

Stick welder = poor mans welder

ehh unless you know how to use it. welding automotive sheet metal with 6010 rod without too much warpage is fun.

Texas240 · 08-25-2011, 06:16 PM

what cops are you using?

Cameron · 08-25-2011, 06:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Texas240

what cops are you using?

Imma guess Toyota.

Texas240 · 08-25-2011, 07:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cameron

imma guess toyota.

look here smarty pants!!

JohnMc · 08-25-2011, 10:05 PM

It's Toyota. Off a Corolla or something (I bought them from Nathaninwa).

I soldered for hours last night. I removed lots of unneeded circuits from my 940 wiring harness, then condensed the plugs at the firewall, and went from 5 down to 2. Now I'm repurposing a couple of them for the sequential injector wiring and the COP wiring.

I need to swing by the PnP tomorrow and get some more donor wiring and complete the COP wiring through those same plugs. That way I can unplug everything at the firewall if needed to pull the motor.

Here's part of it:

That's a lot of the sensor wiring, plus the sequential injector wiring. (And the knock sensor and A/C compressor wire - I really need to wire up that Knocksense I've had kicking around the house since before I blew up the 8V from.... knocking....).

07-08-2011, 10:33 PM	#151
nathaninwa The Beloved Oarnge Juice Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: WA	Thanks John, looks like Ill be doing a couple one off plenums! __________________ 962j 815/692@27psi SHEETMETAL INTAKEhttp://forums.turbobricks.com/showth...etmetal+intake THIS IS FORSALE V

07-09-2011, 10:38 PM	#152
JohnMc PV Abuser Join Date: May 2004 Location: St. Louis	Double post. Sort of how I left that alternator on the counter at the PnP and had to go back to get it. __________________ '63 PV Rat Rod '93 245 16VT Classic #1141 Last edited by JohnMc; 07-09-2011 at 10:43 PM..

07-09-2011, 10:40 PM	#154
linuxman51 BRANDSCHUTZVORSCHRIFTEN! Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: mont, AL	sounds like it worked so well you needed a double post __________________ "They bum rushed them in their own crib, they drank all their beer, they partied with their ladies and they left with the trophy" Now with in-house Dyno tuning! Megasquirt Tuning! Plug and play LH 2.4 Megasquirt, now with stealth mode!

07-13-2011, 08:38 AM	#160
SquareD An Anomaly Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: The STL	I don't know if this has been discussed, but is the log mani better for flows than a 90+ with an adapter flange? __________________ 1994 945ti \| 15g @ 15psi, Turbosmart EBC, AEM Failsafe WB, 3"/2.5" exhaust, do88 intercooler, iPd cam, STS cam gear, Ostrich LH tune, sbabbs EZK chip, green giants, K&N, Yoshifab CCV/Can/Cap, iPd SS brake lines, TME, Eibach, BNE, Koni suspension, iPd sways, iPd panhard, TME upper/CT lower braces, forged BBS RG-Rs, Michelin Pilot SS, ecodes, V90 bits. 1985 744ti \| 13.8 @ 100.5 mph - Sold after 20 years.

07-13-2011, 08:40 AM	#161
DNAsEqUeNcE †John3:16 Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Dallas	eh.......... not really __________________

07-09-2011, 10:38 PM	#153
JohnMc PV Abuser Join Date: May 2004 Location: St. Louis	Remote reservoir PS pump on, intake manifold now fits. I also got some cute littler alternator from a 940, seems to be a direct fit, it's a fair amount smaller, and it's 100A vs. 80A from the larger 240 alternator. I put it on, it seems fine. It was a little snug between the turbo and alternator before, plus the alternator would hit the oil pressure sender when you tried to get it loose enough to take the belts off. Messed around with a throttle spool and got that tweaked around and fit onto Nathan's manifold. Also got an A/C return line from a 940, instead of going straight up from the compressor (where it ran into Nathan's intake manifold) and over the top of the motor in the 240 style, it goes down, has a flex line across the crossmember, to a fairly out of the way hard line along the far frame rail and up to the receiver/drier. It doesn't fit perfectly on a 240, since it's a little narrower, but I think it will work well with a tweak or two.

07-12-2011, 12:55 PM	#155
JohnMc PV Abuser Join Date: May 2004 Location: St. Louis	I'm 95% resigned to putting the same exhaust side back onto the car. I'm running out of time and money, that ram's horn hearder isn't going to fit in well with A/C and I'm not really wanting to bother with making new oil lines and DP for a new turbo right now, so I think the log mani and Chinese GT30R are going to go back on. I guess I'll tackle a front mount and different turbo next year. So I'll just see how much it's better with the head, cams, intake, and electronics upgrades.

07-12-2011, 01:21 PM	#156
linuxman51 BRANDSCHUTZVORSCHRIFTEN! Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: mont, AL	should be a lot better.

07-13-2011, 10:46 AM	#162
JohnMc PV Abuser Join Date: May 2004 Location: St. Louis	Yeah, I'm not exactly sure how bad the log mani is, but the air does have to sort of mill about angrily in the log for a while before it gets the idea to go out the flange. It might not actually be as bad as it mentally seems to be. The advantages of the log are all in the initial cost (although I've had to have mine flattened twice so far by a machine shop) and the packaging - they're very small and fit into a very small space. Aron - But then I'd have a stick welder! And I could make sliders for the 4Runners, things like that.

08-23-2011, 11:38 AM	#165
JohnMc PV Abuser Join Date: May 2004 Location: St. Louis	I guess I've been posting updates in the SE(X) thread, instead of here... Head is on, exhaust side is on, waiting on a few odds and ends to finish out the intake side. Currently wading through the engine wiring. Over time, I've been using less and less of the stock harness, and adding more of my stuff. Got sick of the unused wiring, and the new wiring outside the looms. Plus, I'll need to add a fair amount of new stuff this time around: - individual wires for the injectors intead of the single LH fat gray wire that fires all of them at once - COP wiring - DSM CAS wiring So I stripped the casings off all the stock wiring and I'm picking out the circuits I no loner need and removing them (AMM, PCV heater, Bosch ignition, some random two-wire plug that was always unused by the block dist, stock NB O2 wiring). And inside the passenger footwell I am getting rid of the rats nest that is the combined EZK and LH harness. Just picking off one wire at a time that goes through the firewall, figuring out what it is, and either labelling and clipping it, or removing it. Got through about 80% of it last night, it's pretty close to having that mess out of there. It's a little intimidating to see the huge mass of wiring under there, but just doing it one at a time and it clears out quicker than you'd think. Then to wire up the new components, re-loom the wiring under the hood, and start trying to get the MS3X box configured (PM in to gross polluter - hopefully he can give me a nice starter MS3X MSQ so I'm not starting from scratch). Other than that - still need to: - hook the DP back up - install the timing belt and accessory drive belts - notable that I now have a smaller drive pulley - might need new belts? - install the intake manifold and FPR Last edited by JohnMc; 08-23-2011 at 11:44 AM..

08-23-2011, 12:09 PM	#167
JohnMc PV Abuser Join Date: May 2004 Location: St. Louis	Nice, I'll try that if my original belts don't work. I also swapped the alternator to the smaller 100A Nippodenso style from a late model 940, so that may make a diffreence as well. I have a new A/C belt sitting around somewhere, I got it a couple of years ago from FCP as a replacement, but it never fit, too short. So maybe it will work now.

08-23-2011, 01:28 PM	#168
Texas240 Prius Owner Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Dallas, TX	How do you think I felt when I did mine.

08-23-2011, 01:37 PM	#169
JohnMc PV Abuser Join Date: May 2004 Location: St. Louis	For some slight additional fun, my whole engine harness was swapped in from a 940T by some previous owner (or their mechanic). So there are some snipped, spliced, and plain unused wires here and there. There was even a 2 foot section of heavy 2 gauge wire leading from the starter terminal up toward the firewall, where it was cut and taped off. Mine won't really be that much simpler once done, since I'm adding about as much as I'm taking out, but at least it will all be functional. And not redundant. No more unused wiring tucked all over the place. I'm trying to think of ways to use the unused dash lights now. Like the CEL, the upshift indicator. Maybe a lean mixture warning light and a shift light? MS3X has a ridiculous number of outputs jsut waiting to be configured via Tunerstuido - no need to open the case, solder jumpres, configure transitor outputs, add wires, they're all there already in the new output plug pigtail.

08-25-2011, 06:16 PM	#172
Texas240 Prius Owner Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Dallas, TX	what cops are you using?

08-25-2011, 10:05 PM	#175
JohnMc PV Abuser Join Date: May 2004 Location: St. Louis	It's Toyota. Off a Corolla or something (I bought them from Nathaninwa). I soldered for hours last night. I removed lots of unneeded circuits from my 940 wiring harness, then condensed the plugs at the firewall, and went from 5 down to 2. Now I'm repurposing a couple of them for the sequential injector wiring and the COP wiring. I need to swing by the PnP tomorrow and get some more donor wiring and complete the COP wiring through those same plugs. That way I can unplug everything at the firewall if needed to pull the motor. Here's part of it: That's a lot of the sensor wiring, plus the sequential injector wiring. (And the knock sensor and A/C compressor wire - I really need to wire up that Knocksense I've had kicking around the house since before I blew up the 8V from.... knocking....).

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