Just another fake race car? garage queen.

[turbojose]

Originally Posted by culberro

It's common for the intake cam journals to get a little haggard from lack of lubrication. The head biases oil to the exhaust side first, which is also the "downhill" cam that's mostly submerged in oil.
I like to run an external oil feed to the rear of the head, on the intake side. Super easy to do while the head is off.

Grab some 300-400grit sand paper and lightly sand the cap and journal. Clean it all up, and then lay the camshaft in the journals of the upper head section... with no caps on. How much can the cam rock when pushing the cyl1 side into the journal and then cyl4 side into the journal? Rotate the cam 90deg and repeat, rotate & rock, rotate & rock. How much rock was there? Is it consistent with the rotations? One side worse than the other? Stock cams aren't that straight in my experience, and can cause slight wear issues.

THank you for the reply. that rear feed for the intake cam sounds intersting... are there any post that show that? I would be interested. also, I'm installing a new set of cams from Yoshifab, so not sure if I should go through the process of checking you mention above? I will try to clean up the bearing journals a bit before re installation.

[Stiggy Pop]

Originally Posted by turbojose

went the hard way to change the flywheel.... pull the trans... nah just pull the motor and put in a new motor...lol.

anyone got a good source for all of the engine sensor connectors? The New MS3-pro is on the way, and I want to solder up a new harness.

looking for Bosch style injector connectors with pic tails



and LS coil pic tails.


but could use a lot of others. like the TPS sensor, and knock sensor, and IAC motor.

Bosch EV1 connectors (like this https://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/538...hoCcrAQAvD_BwE)

TPS I think I got AMP junior power timer? been too long to recall.

GM stuff you're looking in the weatherpack and metri pack families.

I typically buy everything from Mouser or Digi-Key, just have to know what you're looking for.

[Harlard]

Originally Posted by Stiggy Pop

Bosch EV1 connectors (like this https://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/538...hoCcrAQAvD_BwE)

TPS I think I got AMP junior power timer? been too long to recall.

GM stuff you're looking in the weatherpack and metri pack families.

I typically buy everything from Mouser or Digi-Key, just have to know what you're looking for.

You can get JPT/EV1 connectors for way cheaper from Corsa Technic:


https://www.corsa-technic.com/catego...ategory_id=146

[Stiggy Pop]

Originally Posted by Harlard

You can get JPT/EV1 connectors for way cheaper from Corsa Technic:


https://www.corsa-technic.com/catego...ategory_id=146

eeuro was just the quickest link that showed the components.

Typically all of this stuff is available for the lowest prices at Mouser or DigiKey; you just have to do the homework for a full buy-sheet as they don't generally have little kits like those sites. (ex. the terminals are half the price on mouser compared to the Corsa link there)

I actually think pigtails are MORE work than unterminated connectors. Buy a set of decent ratcheting crimpers

[Harlard]

Agreed on Mouser/Digikey. Since my patience/time to research are limited, I'm personally okay with the more consumer-level pricing and interface as far as electronic components go. It's a matter of personal preference I suppose.

As for pigtails, 10000% this. There is no downside to assembling your own connectors, and end up with a much higher quality product at the end of the project.

[culberro]

Slightly more than corsa-technica, but a better connector body IMO and they come with labels... which are awesome. So I'll post the link once again...

https://prowireusa.com/c-84-conn-kits.aspx

Also, that page should lead you to every connector that you will need, including the TPS and Delphi coils.

[culberro]

Originally Posted by turbojose

THank you for the reply. that rear feed for the intake cam sounds intersting... are there any post that show that? I would be interested. also, I'm installing a new set of cams from Yoshifab, so not sure if I should go through the process of checking you mention above? I will try to clean up the bearing journals a bit before re installation.

Not sure, ask Harlard for pictures when the head is off his car again

Definitely check the cams. I've seen them where the rear thrust area is too tight and would bind because the cam was dropped at some point.

[Harlard]

This is true. Got low compression in #1 so pictures should be available in the next couple months when the whole dang motor gets pulled again.

[Stiggy Pop]

Originally Posted by Harlard

This is true. Got low compression in #1 so pictures should be available in the next couple months when the whole dang motor gets pulled again.

sad trombone

[turbojose]

Thank you all for the great information on connectors.... I have to sift through a bit and place my order.... hoping to start installing the new ECU system next weekend.... there should be a MS2 for sale pretty soon.

[turbojose]

does anyone have pictures of a 16v turbo 240 with a header and a 3" down pipe? i want to see what I'm looking for.

[RvolvoR]

I have actually really been liking Cycle Terminal for connectors lately....they make it easy to find all of the oddball ****.

http://www.cycleterminal.com/junior-power-timer.html

[turbojose]

Finally got around to pulling the MS2. For sale thread listed... still waiting on the MS3 Pro. so I can start with the questions and configuration. One thing that comes to mind though... I'm currently running a stand alone AEM boost controller and AEM methanol controller... does anyone see any reason i should run stand alone pieces or should I let the new MS3-pro control all of that?

also got in the new cometic head gasket, and I'm a little concerned... it looks much thicker than a factory head gasket. did I order something wrong?

[Harlard]

The MS3 should be able to control both internally. Why are you getting those?

[turbojose]

Originally Posted by Harlard

The MS3 should be able to control both internally. Why are you getting those?

Hey Harlard

What do you mean? I'm getting the cometic as part of the new 2.5L

[Harlard]

I mean the boos and meth controller. You can use the Nitrous output for meth and Boost for an EBC solenoid.

As for the HG, Cometic is fine I guess. Better quench but you lose your fuse.

[turbojose]

Originally Posted by Harlard

I mean the boos and meth controller. You can use the Nitrous output for meth and Boost for an EBC solenoid.

As for the HG, Cometic is fine I guess. Better quench but you lose your fuse.

Ah got it. Thanks again. In my current setup I had the AEM boat controller and AEM meth controller because the MS2
Couldn’t handle it... my question is does the MS3 do as good a
Job of controlling as the AEM Stan alones? And wondering if the MS3 is capable of controlling all three (nitrous, meth, boost).

[culberro]

That head gasket has a compressed thickness of .080”, stock is .047” iirc. That’s going to your CR substantially.

[turbojose]

Originally Posted by culberro

That head gasket has a compressed thickness of .080”, stock is .047” iirc. That’s going to your CR substantially.

Thank you for your reply. is that a bad thing? Do they make a cometic head gasket with the same compressed thickness as stock?

[culberro]

They make them from much thinner, to stock, to much thicker. There’s probably 8 or so off the shelf thicknesses around.

That HG is going to drop the CR a ton, and remove what little quench you had. Basically, making it slower out of boost and probably more detonation prone.

I’d choose one of these two if you wanted something close to stock.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/c...040/make/volvo

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/c...045/make/volvo

[Harlard]

Oh dang I misread the gasket. Thought it was an .030" one, whoops.

[turbojose]

Ok... it's been a bit... I've been sitting on a few parts, and been a bit lazy lately. Got the MS3 pro ready to install and finally got the correct thickness head gasket. Summit took forever.... lol the Question i'm contemplating tonight is... Should I go the extra mile an all the effort to install the RSI header, or should I just put the 90+ back in since the car is already setup for it, and I will be back on the road sooner than later.... I'm just torn. It seems like i always let the scope get away from me.

things to consider when keeping the 90+
1.) exhaust already done.
2.) intercooler piping done
3.) oil and cooling lines already made and working

things slowing me from putting in the header.
1.) need to get the exhaust reworked.
2.) consider going with external wastgate but have some clearance issues and may need to put in an electric fan.
3.) have to make new intercooler piping and possibly move the intercooler.

other than that I know the header is going to give me more power, but wondering if it's really worth all of the extra work.

change my mind... LOL

[culberro]

Sell the RSI header to Harlard so he can make hero numbers

Harlard made just shy of 300whp on 8psi using a 90+ and an eBay turbo (3071?). Is that enough power for you?

[Harlard]

Originally Posted by culberro

Sell the RSI header to Harlard so he can make hero numbers

Harlard made just shy of 300whp on 8psi using a 90+ and an eBay turbo (3071?). Is that enough power for you?

280 at 11 cutting the runs short at 6700 RPM due to a burst lift pump hose in the tank. According to my logs it's right around 300 with all the fuel pressure and redline bumped back up to 7500 (probably makes power beyond that but it's already chucked v belts and the trans makes some pretty awful noises).

[turbojose]

Originally Posted by culberro

Sell the RSI header to Harlard so he can make hero numbers

Harlard made just shy of 300whp on 8psi using a 90+ and an eBay turbo (3071?). Is that enough power for you?

I've been running the current setup 16v 2.3L on about 19-22PSI for a couple years now.... Kenny tunned and it has been a blast. never been on the dyno, but the seat of the pants feel is great, and the GM trans has been a problem. I have a new trans installed, and nitrous for some extra get up and go. I'm hoping to some low 11 second ET at the track occationaly, but the car will get driven often, but not daily.

don't know what HP i need to achieve this, so I may have to hold on to the header for a bit while i decide.... but putting on the 90+ again will get me back on the road much sooner. then I can do a header vs 90+ comparison after the upgrade i'm thinking....