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Old 08-04-2020, 11:26 PM   #101
linuxman51
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wouldn't hurt to start off with the 90+, they're not the worst thing in the world. would be interesting to see them gainz going to the tubular header. You'll want more than 300whp though lol
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Old 08-04-2020, 11:54 PM   #102
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wouldn't hurt to start off with the 90+, they're not the worst thing in the world. would be interesting to see them gainz going to the tubular header. You'll want more than 300whp though lol
right on.... I'm dying to drive it soon... she's been out of commission for a while. I'll get some pics up of the progress soon.

also going to go with stock head bolts with the cometic head gasket... Your thoughts?
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Old 08-05-2020, 01:36 AM   #103
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Head studs and stock head gasket are what I would do, personally...
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My knob has a big chunk of steel on it
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Old 08-05-2020, 07:14 PM   #104
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Head studs and stock head gasket are what I would do, personally...
Realy? why stock over Cometic? I already have the cometic.... but I could get a stock gasket pretty easily.
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Old 08-05-2020, 07:23 PM   #105
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Old 08-05-2020, 09:00 PM   #106
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It forgives the sins of poor tuning.
Isn’t your cometic like 0.080” thick?
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Old 08-05-2020, 11:52 PM   #107
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if you're running the commetic, you should run headstuds as well.
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Old 08-06-2020, 12:17 AM   #108
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It forgives the sins of poor tuning.
Isn’t your cometic like 0.080” thick?
I got the cometic switched out by summit for 0.036 does that change any minds? I waited 2 months for it... lol
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Old 08-06-2020, 12:18 AM   #109
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if you're running the cometic, you should run headstuds as well.
truth be told Kenny... I don't know why i even ordered the cometic other than I thought thats what the cool kids did.
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Old 08-06-2020, 12:25 AM   #110
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Does anyone have experience installing the head studs once the head has been placed on the block? With the 240, I doubt I will be able to get the head off and on with the studs in place... do they have to be put in the block before putting the head on?
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Old 08-06-2020, 12:35 AM   #111
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Put the head on first, then the studs. No biggie. Just like with the cam box.
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Old 11-15-2020, 11:14 PM   #112
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update... Ok its been a minute... got a little side tracked... LOL. put the 2.5L short block in the car this weekend, and bolted up to the trans... ready to start assembly of the top end, and new MS3 Pro EMS. This should keep me busy for a while. I decided to go with the 90+ again. hoping it doesn't kill the power of the 2.5L. I'm gonna hold onto the header for a bit and possibly to a power comparison 90+ vs Header soon. before I start into the updates on the new progress, I just had to share what was wrong with the 2.3L since this is what started be down this rabbit hole. After finally pulling the 2.3, I realized the cause of the knock was a broken flex plate. I have broken one before when installing the GM adapter for the first time, and having some clearance issues that caused some undue stress pull stress on the flex plate.... but this is different. all bolts were tight, and clearances where good, and I even ran the car hard for 2 years and then this:Untitled

not sure what happened, but I sourced another flexplate, and crossing my fingers.

our with the old.

Untitled

in with the new....

Untitled

Last edited by turbojose; 11-15-2020 at 11:17 PM.. Reason: adding pics
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Old 11-16-2020, 12:06 AM   #113
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anyone ever break a flexplate like this? how did you solve it?

Untitled

Untitled

Last edited by turbojose; 11-19-2020 at 01:32 AM..
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Old 11-23-2020, 02:49 PM   #114
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how tf did you manage to do so?? ;)
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Old 11-23-2020, 11:05 PM   #115
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how tf did you manage to do so?? ;)
best I can tell, is that the flexplate had an undiscovered crack before install.... it was sourced from the wrecking yard in a wrecked car.... The installation looked clean and normal. all bolts tight, and converter adapter was fully seated in pilot hole with no binding.... I just picked up another and gonna inspect and install and hope it survives with the new motor.
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Old 11-25-2020, 11:43 AM   #116
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ah,, so it cracked during installation, and not while running?
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Old 11-25-2020, 09:08 PM   #117
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ah,, so it cracked during installation, and not while running?
Oh no.... this happened after about 10k miles of
Driving.
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Old 11-28-2020, 01:35 PM   #118
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbojose View Post
This is my first project thread
Going for 10's?

History:
I have spent more than 10 years on TB soon after I got my first Volvo in 2007... sure it started off as just transportation as the point in my life I just needed practical. but being a car guy as it is, it didn't take long for me to start looking for ways to make it faster and faster.

I'm a little late starting a project thread as the car has already gone through a number of upgrades and transitions, so I will just start with where it is at today, and then talk about my goals moving forward.

car was already a turbo b21ft so had a lot of the goodies to start with.




as it sits today:
Untitled

Engine:
stock 16v head redone to factory specs.
nathan intake and fuel rail
90+ exhaust manifold on yoshi adapter
garret gtr3076 ballbearing turbo
3" full exhaust
ATP ultimate wastegate
MS2 extra "heeb tuned"
sequential fuel, and sequential spark
GM LS coils
Yoshi DSM cas adapter
NPR intercooler
Greedy BOV
AEM tru-boost controller
AEM methanol injection
Nitrous with table switching "heeb speed tricks" ready to go...
Untitled

Car still has complete AC system, power steering and cruise control all working.

Trans:
GM 700R4
Revmax converter with 4000 stall but i question that stall.

Rear is still stock 1031 with 3.91 gear with modified G80


Interior and stereo:

Completely reupholstered in original beige. (wish i had done leather)
custom momo steering wheel in R-Sport blue/gold stitching
Untitled
Dave Barton R-Sport dash overlay
Untitled

dynomat complete interior (probably worth a thread of its own)
Untitled
stereo Pioneer bluetooth head unit
image dynamics compression horns mounted under dash
Untitled

Morel 6" mid bass drivers in custom fiberglass door enclosures
3-10" Image dynamics ID 10" woofers.
MC4000 McIntosh "old school" 1000 watt amplifier
Untitled
Mechman 240 amp alternator



Wheels:
17 x 7.5 with 225 rubber
adapters for wheels 5 x 4.5



I'm sure there is much more I'm missing, but it will get sprinkled in over time i'm sure.

the car has been sitting for a few months with a bad rod knock. not wanting to tare the motor down to investigate without a plan, i have left it untouched in the garage for at least two months.

Covid19 has given me plenty of garage time, and I have secured a bunch of go faster parts, so I am going to try to assemble my plan here and share it with the group in hopes of gaining some knowledge and sharing some knowledge and hopes of achieving my goal.


The Plan:

Building a stout bottom end and Going for 10's in the quarter mile

here is where I start sharing what's going on and ask for advice or input. Today I dropped off a 94 squirter block and 2.5l crank at machine two diferent shops to get them cleaned up and checked out. My plan is to install new bearings, and start the assembly on a bottom half. In addition, here are the parts I have going into the bottom end.

NEW RSI 16v pistons rings and rods with ARP bolts (complete kit)
UntitledUntitled
2.5L penta crank cleaned checked and polished (mains all tested stock)

Keep in mind I have never assembled a bottom end before, but I will get it done. I'm persistent.

so let me kick off the questions:
1.) were do I find the torque spec's for the rods and main journals?
2.) should I consider ARP main cap hardware?
3.) do the piston rings need any filing on an RSI kit or can I just compress and install?

I am probably crazy for thinking I can even get this done having never done it and no formal mechanical training of any kind..... let alone run 10's after the process is all said and done. but lets have fun with it.

Does being a kid of a father mechanic qualify me as capable probably not, but I will share that I am 50 years old, and have always worked on my own cars, and enjoy drag racing as a hobby although I have been out of it for over 10 years.



Keeping it TurboBricks as F*** with that ratchet strap 3rd mount. HELL YES!!!!
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Old 12-01-2020, 12:46 AM   #119
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KwikBrik245 View Post
Keeping it TurboBricks as F*** with that ratchet strap 3rd mount. HELL YES!!!!
The ratchet strap just works.... lol never broke a motor mount. over 7 years.
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Old 01-04-2021, 11:52 PM   #120
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Anybody got the wiring diagram for the oil pressue and oil iddiot light system in a factory 84 b21FT? Finally got the 2.5 bolted in the engine bay.... gonna start assembly and wiring this week.... I have a quick question about some of the factory wiring. I'm working with a factory installed oil pressure guage and oil light in the instrament cluster. the factory wiring is in bad shape. I have the harness all peeled back, and I have a question about the wire for the instrament oil pressure cluster light. It looks like the factory pressure guage is run from the "G" on the sender to the connector on the fire wall. (see below)
unnamed

my question is what is the path of travel for the idiot light wire? since I don't see it listed in any wiring digrams and it is cut currently on my car.

any one have a diagram
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Old 01-04-2021, 11:55 PM   #121
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbojose View Post
Anybody got the wiring diagram for the oil pressue and oil iddiot light system in a factory 84 b21FT? Finally got the 2.5 bolted in the engine bay.... gonna start assembly and wiring this week.... I have a quick question about some of the factory wiring. I'm working with a factory installed oil pressure guage and oil light in the instrament cluster. the factory wiring is in bad shape. I have the harness all peeled back, and I have a question about the wire for the instrament oil pressure cluster light. It looks like the factory pressure guage is run from the "G" on the sender to the connector on the fire wall. (see below)
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my question is what is the path of travel for the idiot light wire? since I don't see it listed in any wiring digrams and it is cut currently on my car.

any one have a diagram
Holy **** what is this
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Old 01-05-2021, 12:06 AM   #122
turbojose
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Holy **** what is this
fixed! lol
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Old 01-05-2021, 01:53 AM   #123
bobxyz
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On my '85 B21FT before LH2.4 conversion, the pinout on that 8 pin bulkhead connector was:
1 - black, block oil pressure sensor, goes to instrument panel 31/5 - oil pressure warning light
2 - yellow, head coolant temperature sensor, goes to instrument panel 31/2 - engine temperature gauge
3 - red, alternator D+ 61, goes to instrument panel 31/11 (and thru panel to 31/6 to A/C Delay Relay)
4 - gray, goes to K-Jet Lambda ECU pin 7 fuel enrichment
5 - blue-yellow, to starter motor 50, from park/neutral interlock
6 - green, block oil pressure sensor, goes to oil pressure gauge in triple gauge cluster
7 - blue, "Fuel injection system connection" in wiring greenbook - power to CPR, from FuelPump Relay 87b
8 - brown, goes to ballast resistor, starter 16 and coil 15 on K-jet
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'85 245glt b21ft aw71 k-jet -> lh2.4
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Old 01-05-2021, 08:53 PM   #124
turbojose
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobxyz View Post
On my '85 B21FT before LH2.4 conversion, the pinout on that 8 pin bulkhead connector was:
1 - black, block oil pressure sensor, goes to instrument panel 31/5 - oil pressure warning light
2 - yellow, head coolant temperature sensor, goes to instrument panel 31/2 - engine temperature gauge
3 - red, alternator D+ 61, goes to instrument panel 31/11 (and thru panel to 31/6 to A/C Delay Relay)
4 - gray, goes to K-Jet Lambda ECU pin 7 fuel enrichment
5 - blue-yellow, to starter motor 50, from park/neutral interlock
6 - green, block oil pressure sensor, goes to oil pressure gauge in triple gauge cluster
7 - blue, "Fuel injection system connection" in wiring greenbook - power to CPR, from FuelPump Relay 87b
8 - brown, goes to ballast resistor, starter 16 and coil 15 on K-jet
Thank you very much! this is great.
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Old 01-10-2021, 10:33 PM   #125
turbojose
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Spent some time putting the accessories back on the motor... choosing to get as much done as I can before putting on the head since that crowds things up a bit.

today: installed the air conditioning compressor and power steering, and water pump. also installed the Mechman alternator, and some new 1/0 guage leads direct to the battery.

gonna take the head to the machine shop tomorrow just to make sure its perfectly flat, and no valves are leaking.

should be installing the head and starting the wiring next weekend.

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