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Old 03-21-2016, 12:17 PM   #251
Dan820
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I've got a '74 B20 block in my garage if you want it. Has some gouges in #4 so it'd need a bore, but '73 and later are 8 bolt I think, so pretty strong.
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Old 03-21-2016, 12:26 PM   #252
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I've got a 6bolt b20 block in the shed, loading it up in the truck tonight and dropping it at the machine shop tomorrow, I was pretty much waiting for this, new pistons, block has already been cleaned, mic'd, ready to bore, then deck... The last one was just a test shot to see how much a very badly worn b18 that was re-rung but never checked with massive blow by would hold, also it was my timing tester until I got a decent base timing map sorted, so lots of forcing it to ping. I new it was going to blow, I had been hoping to see pistons with holes, but the rings went first. I imagine the ringlands are what ultimately loosened up.

But thanks for the offer!!!
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Old 03-21-2016, 12:27 PM   #253
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how psi stock cna sprout?


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Old 03-21-2016, 12:31 PM   #254
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Answer! 18, no more
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Old 03-22-2016, 04:52 AM   #255
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I'm sorry to hear that man. Still sticking with a b20?
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Old 03-22-2016, 08:26 AM   #256
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Yeah, no worries. It was all in the plan, I hoped it would make it to winter but oh well. Motor build just swapped places with t5 and 8.8 install, that's all.
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Old 03-25-2016, 12:44 PM   #257
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Your signature is quite prophetic. 18 is a lot of boosts. Gives me confidence in wailing on my B18 with 0 boosts.
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Old 03-25-2016, 12:56 PM   #258
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Yeah, and 18 PSI on a unknown mileage block, with so much blow by that the oil filler cap looked like a smoke stack... I was really surprised that it lasted as long as it did. I'm pretty sure that the block that is at the machine shop is going to handle things a lot better.

The recipe for the new motor is:
.030 pistons (file fit rings and weight matched pistons/rods)
Block decked to give me a .032 squish, thats probably going to mean .002 down with the head gasket at .030 crushed
I'll re-cc the combustion chambers to bring the static CR to around 9:1, but I'll be happy with anything less than 9.5:1
I might touch up the porting on the head (pretty sure that I could do a better job polishing out the exhaust around the guide area), and maybe go as far as matching intake and exhaust manifolds to the head.

That combination should be great at 12-15psi on pump gas, and maybe do a little water meth on trackdays if I want to go higher boost.

Edit: just got a call from the machine shop and my block is on the list with expected completion around next Friday. Only hitch is the deck, I'm going to have to run a stand down to him when the bore is done and fit the pistons myself and give him the what to take off measurement... Appearently he doesnt like to go that low on customer builds unless hes doing all of it.

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Old 03-25-2016, 03:31 PM   #259
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Originally Posted by cwdodson88 View Post
Yeah, and 18 PSI on a unknown mileage block, with so much blow by that the oil filler cap looked like a smoke stack... I was really surprised that it lasted as long as it did. I'm pretty sure that the block that is at the machine shop is going to handle things a lot better.

The recipe for the new motor is:
.030 pistons (file fit rings and weight matched pistons/rods)
Block decked to give me a .032 squish, thats probably going to mean .002 down with the head gasket at .030 crushed
I'll re-cc the combustion chambers to bring the static CR to around 9:1, but I'll be happy with anything less than 9.5:1
I might touch up the porting on the head (pretty sure that I could do a better job polishing out the exhaust around the guide area), and maybe go as far as matching intake and exhaust manifolds to the head.

That combination should be great at 12-15psi on pump gas, and maybe do a little water meth on trackdays if I want to go higher boost.

Edit: just got a call from the machine shop and my block is on the list with expected completion around next Friday. Only hitch is the deck, I'm going to have to run a stand down to him when the bore is done and fit the pistons myself and give him the what to take off measurement... Appearently he doesnt like to go that low on customer builds unless hes doing all of it.
Would be really interested to see where your ports are know and where you end up.
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Old 03-25-2016, 05:33 PM   #260
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Would be really interested to see where your ports are know and where you end up.
As far as? the difference between the head and manifolds, or flow numbers? I dont really have a proper flow bench, so I have no numbers there... basically what I did to the head before was to just take the ridge behind the exhaust valve out, and then I went through with 100,320,and 600 grit paper over the whole thing just to clean and smooth the casting imperfections, so its probably a ton better than stock but not Phil Singher better This round I think I will take the die grinder to the area around the guide and get that looking better, and I've been tossing around the idea of having the guide run to the roof. For matching to the manifolds I'll bolt the intake and exhaust on since they have the locating pins to keep everything going on the same every time and I have some graphite powder spray to shoot down the ports and give me a guide to port the manifolds to.
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Old 03-27-2016, 07:47 PM   #261
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Originally Posted by cwdodson88 View Post
As far as? the difference between the head and manifolds, or flow numbers? I dont really have a proper flow bench, so I have no numbers there... basically what I did to the head before was to just take the ridge behind the exhaust valve out, and then I went through with 100,320,and 600 grit paper over the whole thing just to clean and smooth the casting imperfections, so its probably a ton better than stock but not Phil Singher better This round I think I will take the die grinder to the area around the guide and get that looking better, and I've been tossing around the idea of having the guide run to the roof. For matching to the manifolds I'll bolt the intake and exhaust on since they have the locating pins to keep everything going on the same every time and I have some graphite powder spray to shoot down the ports and give me a guide to port the manifolds to.

I am interested to see how people handle the area around the exhaust guide. I don't have a flow bench but used a vacuum cleaner to "thread" things to see where the air wanted to go. Some people seem to completely remove and radius the guide bump. I went with smoothing it a bit but focusing on biasing things on the outside radius. More room for a nice bend and since most of the flow should be coming from the center of the cylinder is makes sense that is where it would want to go.
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Old 03-28-2016, 12:50 PM   #262
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My plan is to do similar to what Canuck did, like so
Quote:
Canuck - B20 head porting thread

Really my main focus this go around is the casting around the guide, I will try to blend the casting to the guide toward the port exit, and create a small rounded channel extending from the back wall at the center of the guide blending around to the port exit making a slight widows peak at the very back of the guide splitting it towards either side.

So carving out red areas a bit, and then blending an smoothing over the yellow
Attached Images
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File Type: jpg DSCF0005.JPG (62.1 KB, 374 views)

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Old 04-05-2016, 02:03 PM   #263
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Small update. Just got a call from the machine shop, block is bored, cleaned, new wrist pin bushings pressed, and ready for me to take it home and measure my deck and tell him how much to take off the top, then it’ll go back for the deck, into the tank, and get new cam bearings... So I should have it back next week for final assembly of the block.

In other news, closing date is set on my new house, and going to be moving in about 2 weeks. So I’ll probably wait to assemble until I get in to my garage.
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Old 04-05-2016, 05:03 PM   #264
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Would he let you dummy it up on a stand in his shop early one morning and don't bother taking it anywhere? Then, let him store/complete it while you move?

Cylinder head looks nice.
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Old 04-05-2016, 05:30 PM   #265
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Would he let you dummy it up on a stand in his shop early one morning and don't bother taking it anywhere? Then, let him store/complete it while you move?

Cylinder head looks nice.
his shop space and storage space is tiny... I asked, even tried to bribe by leaving my extra stand and a 6 pack, but he was afraid that something would get lost/stolen... He would like to be able to lock the doors when hes done but too many customers need to come in after hours to pick up and drop off. He works 8-5 and the counter boys are there 7-6 so...

That head is Canucks, I plan to work something close, we shall see.
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Old 04-06-2016, 10:40 AM   #266
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So I got my block home and measured the deck, looks like I need to have .030 taken off, leaving my highest piston flush with the deck, and the lowest one at .002 below the deck. So dropping that off on my lunch, and should get it back next Friday or so. The other half is going to be so glad that we have a garage to put this all together in, we will just say that my idea of putting together the motor in the living room didnt go over very well.
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Old 04-27-2016, 01:09 PM   #267
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So after a giant show, I finally got moved in to my new house. I didnt think it was actually going to happen, then after a bunch of BS from the lender on the sale of my old house I was told the day before signing (Wednesday) that I needed to have the house cleared by Friday at 5:00pm

I cant describe the entire situation without using the the word CLUSTER. Anywho, 6 hours after getting the keys and BAM!




Now I have to get to it and start unpacking tools and car parts. Hopefully the house projects will be slow to start and I can have my evenings to get some things done before IPD.
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Old 04-28-2016, 06:15 PM   #268
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I am literally in exactly the same position right now, with the same model of car no less.
Having trouble finding a place to park the car until I can get the house unpacked.
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Old 04-28-2016, 06:32 PM   #269
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^ Nice. I just got all my tools and parts unpacked. Tonight will be spent draining fluids and tearing the front end down, removing the blown motor, and whatnots.
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Old 04-30-2016, 07:34 AM   #270
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Congrats on the new home! We're in the process of looking too. Trying to find some land to go with it.
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Old 05-06-2016, 07:40 PM   #271
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Well, I got that D-jet intake installed. Need to clean up some more under hood wiring. For now its kinda being sideburnered until next month when I get my wilwood calipers for the front. I've decided to sell my house and find one with a garage so I've gotta finish up some house projects.
Where did you get those injector housings, are they for sale somewhere or do i have to get lucky at the JY? I'm planning to squirt my PV, already have a "E" head and all electronic stuff.
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Old 05-06-2016, 07:57 PM   #272
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Where did you get those injector housings, are they for sale somewhere or do i have to get lucky at the JY? I'm planning to squirt my PV, already have a "E" head and all electronic stuff.
Those are k-jet B20 injector holders. They were only used on the k-jet b20 cars, and I dont know off the top of my head what years. Hi-Performance (if you google them) is a good start if you are looking for a set, Ian and Eric are nice guys and they might have a set in stock. If not, I have a set that were reamed our (rather crudely) that work "ok" but have leak issues above 15psi.

If you have all the other stuff, a d-jet rail/holders/injectors is pretty sweet, and they flow enough to support ~150-200 hp depending on fuel pressure.
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Old 05-07-2016, 06:34 PM   #273
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It seems like the k-jet only was used in early 240 series B20, 1974-1975.
I have some LH injectors on the shelve so i was hoping to use them (as i understand well these Kjet holders need to be reamed then), but sourcing these holders might get more difficult than going D-jet, of fabricate something myself...
I might want to take a look at your set but i'm in Europe (Belgium)

BTW, very nice build your estate!
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Old 05-09-2016, 11:46 AM   #274
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It seems like the k-jet only was used in early 240 series B20, 1974-1975.
I have some LH injectors on the shelve so i was hoping to use them (as i understand well these Kjet holders need to be reamed then), but sourcing these holders might get more difficult than going D-jet, of fabricate something myself...
I might want to take a look at your set but i'm in Europe (Belgium)

BTW, very nice build your estate!
Yeah, the k-jet b20s are kind of a rare beast. If you cant find holders, weld tabs to the intake manifold and use a press in steel bung for the head, or have bungs welded to the intake.

I started making a new tank before the move and I guess I never posted it up here so heres a start to that.







And I started a new gauge cluster. It will have a 3,3/8" speed and tach, then 2" for fuel, boost, afr, coolant, oil press, volts





New bottom end back fresh from machine.




So I got some stuff done this weekend. New bottom end is together, painted and sealed up, ready for drop in later this week.


I cc'd my head and came out to a static 9.54:1 CR, so thats pretty cool (I forgot to take pics). I couldnt find a decent valve spring compressor that wasnt a week away so I said F**K it and decided not to do any re-porting Oh well, I'll probably pop the head off this winter to give me something to do.


New ARP studs installed.


I also picked up an angled flanged hotside, but I dont think I'll have time to refab a downpipe before IPD. New wheels will be here tomorrow, and new tires are at the shop waiting. So some new shoes for the Volvo. I also snagged a set of flares, they may or may not work out exactly as planned, but no time to turn back now.
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Old 05-10-2016, 04:15 PM   #275
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