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Old 02-10-2010, 10:58 PM   #1
meeki007
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Default b230ft in 145i Build thread

To put this -------- in this.



Ok. So after many people have asked me to make a build thread on this so it can be EZ- to read and wont become fragmented in the showroom as i cover only one section at a time.

I will update this first post so every thing that follows will be comments only.

It all started after the 744 TIC i bought for 250 USD 5 months prior for a fun project had blown a heater core hose. It got slightly over heated and still ran but i fig well time to do a complete overhaul.

B230ft Long block machine shop work $4050.00

Ill save you the 5 page 10pt font list and give you the short highlight version
JE Custom made pistons for the double oversize +1/4 after align and hone.
1/3 Oversize exhaust valves.
1/25th ish oversize intake valves .
custom valve springs.
rods sized and hung for the Balanced 4 cyl
Used volvo Crank. Mine was wore out.
MLS metal head gasket. make up for the deck.
Put in ARP head studs
Put in ARP mains studs (this did cause problem with oil pump line)
an machined for squirters.

Other specs
3in AMM
55lb/hr delphi injectors
15g hot side turbo with 13c cold side machined out to a 15g to hold 15g wheel.
Chips for EZK and ECU

Here are some photos of the engine build.










Here is the oil pipe i had made to go over the main studs




So here it is all ready minus the turbo.


So while waiting on the turbo i start thinking (with help of TB-ers) do i relly want to put it back in the 1990 744. So i tossed the 744 when i found the 145i with ipd sway bars and new shocks and a blown b20b



So i yank this sucker out and then slowly put her back together.



So fist i had to figure out the mounts.

I noticed that the top bolt hole for the b20b mounts was only 2mm off from this hole on the b230ft.





There is a hole on the other side of the b230ft that also is 2mm off in placement compared to the b20b.





time to get fabbing. Now im ok with the gas welder. But not sure my welding skills would make a strong enough weld to be trusted for holding the weight of the block so i did this.





here is the other side. I hacked of a bit of the retaining bracket to the air intake but i think it will be fine.



Here it is going in the bay for the first time.



Here is the first test fit with 140 engine mounts.



Now I did have to use the b20b oil pan to fit this thing in. The pan fits after cutting the oil pump pickup and fabbing a screen onto the cut pipe. Make sure you measure 2-3X before you cut it. After that the pan went right on no problem.

Next i decided to try using 240 mounts as the studs on them are off set allotting me more wiggle room. This proved to work best.

After putting the 240 motor mounts in every thing aligned better. Now i cut the firewall for the distributor because I kept trying to find a way to get the air intake to fit past the break booster. The block mounted distributor kept getting in the way of the intake pipe routing. ERRR. Well after i got it in i decided to fix the air intake problem by cutting a place on top and paying to have it tig welded. Turns out in the end i could have used the block mounted distributor but its not going to be too hard to seal up the fire wall any way.



So now that it is in time to do the fly wheel. The b230ft was mated to an automatic so i had to source a fly wheel for the manual swap. I went with the RSI lightened one. As for the pressure plate and clutch i went with the 140 version.

So time to put the tranny on. The m40 fit up to the b230. You have to drill out the locating pin holes to metric as the pins on the block are metric and the two holes in the bell housing are standard. Also had to notch the top of the bell housing for the Crank sensor.





Alternator did require some deep thinking. As you can see when you mount the b230ft upright there is clearance issues with mounting it on the right side.



Even if you mount it on the bottom left with a bracket for a 240 it would still hit the side of the wheel well.

Solution. I got a Denzo style alt out of a 3 cyl daihatsu. Its light and still puts out 45 amps. So if you plan on having a big radio system you'll have to find a better way.

I fabbed up a bracket and it fit perfect.







Before i continued with closing up the front i decided to tackle the clutch cable. Because it was an automatic i made sure to have the pedal assembly from a manual. Problem was it was missing the pedal- return- spring. Well they don't make them any more so had to fab one up



the break pedal is smaller foot pad on the manual but the top of it is the same size on the manual. so I was able to use all the nylon bushings and the bolt that holds it in. As for the clutch pedal i just cut a spring and then got the vice-grips out and the torch and heat, bend then quench. then heat and quench a few more times after the test fit. Cooling the metal by heating it to just before it glows and then dunking it in water make it keep its shape. then put in oven on broil after oven hits 500deg turn it to 300 wait 30 min then 150 deg wait 30 min then turn it off and let cool for 2 hrs. this really helps lock it in place.
Had to get a bolt and lock nut and some bushings but all worked out.



no photos of the cable or pedal box going in but if ya cant do that on your own with out photos i suggest you not try this swap until after ya have a feel for stuff like that.

The radiator was tricky. First i tried to fit the b20b one but the fan hit it. so i knew i needed to have it on the other side of the radiator cross brace. I cut the metal lip off the front of the support and ground it flat. While in there i ground out the hole on the left so i would have room for the seal for the hose and the hose to the oil cooler opened up. you don't want to be grinding around a radiator if you don't have to.



here is a shot of the modified b230 radiator with the fluid return moved up so it will clear the cross member.



Test fitting the fan shroud fan and oil cooler.



Before i tied in the radiator i needed to fit the IC. This is a tight fit!



here is some more fitting before the IC and radiator goes in. Ive cut out the area for them to fit.



you will have no room. it will push the bottom grill out 3 mm. Only way around this is to use a after market IC. I went with the volvo one because i spent so much time plunging its leeks and cleaning it out and painting it. So it became a mission to make it fit

You have to cut out the front a bit for the radiator and the IC to fit through the bottom. Yes you loose a bit of cooling but i have been looking for a later front grill with the slats to solve this problem (UPDATE: i have a green one in OK shape but im not putting it on till im ready to start striping it for the paint and body restoration)

So sealed up the heater core control valve.



Look like the bracket has to go.



Yes the fan shroud fits. Had to trim the bottom a bit but cutting plastic is EZ. Also had to cut out some room for the radiator hose.

Due to 50 IMG rule Build i continued below.

Last edited by meeki007; 03-14-2014 at 06:37 PM..
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Old 02-11-2010, 01:27 AM   #2
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Old 02-11-2010, 01:45 AM   #3
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Old 02-11-2010, 02:36 AM   #4
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where did you source the main studs? nice!
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Old 02-11-2010, 02:49 AM   #5
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any plans for power steering?
awesome project love the motor colors.
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Old 02-11-2010, 03:14 AM   #6
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Cool project man, keep it coming. Why not go to a electric fan?

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where did you source the main studs? nice!
You can get them from Rock Auto, thats where I got mine.

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Old 02-11-2010, 03:28 AM   #7
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I noticed that the drivers side pipe was 2 in short and that if i had one more drivers side pipe i could cut it and have my 2 in section then the pipe would fit. well then i noticed that the drivers side pipe would fit the passenger side perfect if it was shorter so all i did was get a 2nd drivers side pipe from the junk yard and have it cut and lip put on all the pieces and Tah DAH.








Ya i know i got allot of wires. I have all the wires from the ECU and EZK finished just working on the other wires in the bay before i clean it up

PTC Resistor.
So i tackled this one. It goes after the amm and before the turbo intake. It keeps neg pressure on the crank breather box under boost so ya kinda need this hose connected.

Cut hole for elbow. Ground elbow down. JB weld and oven and done!






The long awaited break booster install. Cut it in 1/2 then had pipe welded to the extend it. Cut grove to insure it clears intake. also welded up the seam to sturdy it up.



Took some time to find grade 8 threaded rod. used some extra nuts and a coupler to extend it.



Throttle cable. I searched around a bit for this. 2nd to breaks you don't want any issues with your throttle. Sticking is BAD ask Toyota.

I used the Best bike cable used for recumbent bikes. Its the thick stuff needed for the back breaks. The tubing is multi reinforced. On top of that where i routed it under the tranny i put it in some Fuel injection tubing to sure it up even more.

The ball link ends are off of the b20b they are the metal ones. I used pluming solder to get the cable to set in the coupler.









The pedal fully actuate the throttle body. A little too much. It goes 3 deg past flat. I have no carpet under the pedal ATM so maybe it will be less after that. But it is much simpler to just put a stopper under the pedal on the fire wall then try to make it move more.

Also it RUNS!! though i haven't ran it for more than 5 seconds as it has no coolant in the system I'm still trying to fig out where to mount the overflow bottle.

This is the current state of the motor after 3k miles. I know i have a bunch of shaving to do now that i know all the stuff is working in here I feel less need to have every thing acessable to get to. Allot more work to do but its fun seeing the changes.


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Old 02-11-2010, 03:31 AM   #8
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E-fan was on the table for a bit but its not like i need the extra horse power. a mechanical fan rarely fails so badly that it wont cool enough to get you home. Also the Mechanical fan will push much more air across the block and out underneath when sitting in traffic. I want to keep the bay cool too. The bay is so small that im worried about melting wires and other things.
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Old 02-11-2010, 11:41 AM   #9
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Main studs i got ordered through the machine shop. If you want me to get you a set and ship them i will. Let me pull the file out tomorrow and see what the cost was on them. The shop is called eastco and they are located in gresham oregon if you want to give them a call see if thell have them shipped to you.
yeah let me know the cost! just pm me it when you find it out.
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Old 02-11-2010, 11:51 AM   #10
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Looks good. Curious why you went with custom pistons and not rods (or rods and pistons)? just an availability thing?
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Old 02-11-2010, 05:57 PM   #11
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PM-ed main studs. The rods are 13mm and checked out fine at the shop. I don't see a need for bigger ones. I never planed on pushing 300 HP I wanted a fun ride and motor that will last 200k so dint need to go over the top.

Also the rods i kept seeing look to thick for where i had my oil squerters tapped.

However if i do goto the drag strip and turn it up for a run or two i think the 13mm rods will hold. If they break lesson learned bigger rods ill get.
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Old 02-20-2010, 11:56 PM   #12
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Very nice. I'm in the middle of doing this swap as well. What are u doing with the brake booster - intake interference? I'm thinking of removing it all together and going manual. What rad are you using?
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Old 02-21-2010, 05:32 AM   #13
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sorry guys ive been busy with the 1969 142 for the last week. I used a 740 radiator. Had the transmission cooler taken out of the end tank. then I had the lower connection moved up to clear the 140 rad cross member. Here is a pic of the radiator after the mod.



Cost me only 120 bucks. Also when they take of the end tank have it rodded and cleaned!

Break booster fits as well. Ill get photos of this on Monday all installed. What i did was cut the arm guide housing and extend it with a pipe ( ill measure the distance for ya). The intake had to be tig welded too. Then I got some threaded grade 8 threaded rod and extended the fork. You'll see soon.

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Old 02-21-2010, 08:10 PM   #14
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The rad is an interesting mod. I wondered if there was an aftermarket that would fit. The cost would no doubt be more, but after seeing what you've done I might try and grab a 7xx rad. I'm still waiting on motor mounts to do a mock up. I'll be running a 16v head with a yoshi fab intake, so we'll see what happens there with the brake booster. What fuel pump are you running?
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Old 02-21-2010, 09:20 PM   #15
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I hunted 2 junkyards for a radiator that would fit and had no luck. Some came close but then i thought well its 55 bucks for the JY radiator and only 120 to have the 7XX modded. The 7XX i know cools well so why not go with what the engine was mated to.

As for the fuel pump. The tank on the 145 has no return pipe for the excess of the FPR rail. I put in a brass T so it could go back to the low pressure side of the pumps. i put in a pickup pump on the fender and then a MSD 2225 HIGH PRESSURE IN LINE ELECTRIC FUEL PUMP http://www.msdfuelinjection.com/efi_fuelpump.html for the high pressure i need. This one you can mount out of tank and is rated for 282 lb/hr I have connected as of last night and tested the pressure. Its holding at 41. I may have to get a new FPR to raise it just a tad. I have 4 55lb per hr injectors so i think ill be ok with this pump.
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Old 02-23-2010, 08:10 PM   #16
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Nice. Thanks for the info. I hoping to have mine running by the end of April... I'll probable have a few more questions as I get deeper into it.
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Old 03-28-2010, 02:52 PM   #17
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Any progress on the car?
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Old 03-30-2010, 08:13 AM   #18
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Progress ahh hell. Sorry been supper busy with school and grandpa. So took it on the 2000 mile break-in drive. Drove from Portland, OR to reading, CA all back roads 550miles in 1 day 18 hr drive. Many stops to check fluids and the like. Gave me no issue taking 101. had to be EZ on her. After 550 miles i still did not open her up but then drove I-5 from Reading to Sacramento. Kep accelerating then engine breaking to keep the vac sucking oil on all the rings etc. On way back the heater-core control box sprung a leek and had to U pipe it. Then 150 miles from Portland the damb turbo oil line sprung a leek had to add a QT ever 50 miles. that's where the project sits now. I only opened her up on the way back a few times. As after having it break loose in 2nd at 30 and then cherp and hop in 3rd only running 5psi of boost makes me nervous as Ive never had this kind of power. Photos and other updates in the next 2 weeks.
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Old 03-30-2010, 04:23 PM   #19
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W00! Well, at least it's running and driving, that's a great update! Nice work. Did you change the oil somewhere in that first 2k of driving?

You speak of traction issues, and it appears you might still have the 165s on there?!?! Those tires don't have traction enough for a worn out b18! I mean, I'm sure it has power and will continue to do the same thing even after you get some 205s or larger with different wheels on there, but still. Yikes.

4.10 rear end? I can't remember what transmission you were using either...?
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Old 04-04-2010, 08:49 AM   #20
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I wanted to change oil at 500 but 830'ish was the number. Changed it again at 1,900 miles. now onto synth every 2,500 to 3,500 and shell be good for 300k X-fingers.
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Old 04-04-2010, 10:24 AM   #21
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Definition of a good TB build right here. Great work thus far- I love your homebrew solutions to the swap issues you encountered.

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Old 04-07-2010, 05:38 PM   #22
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So i have learned a good lesson about not using cheep parts. For the oil line to the turbo i used cheep aftermarket smoosh washers and also for the oil extender arm i used a non volvo o-ring for the part the sits flat on the bloke. This all led to a rather nasty oil leek. It was not dripping but rather RUNNING out the bottom. Also the oil filter relocation arm is supported to on the side of the motor mount on a 740. because i did my own mounts to make it fit i just stuck a bolt there and put some nuts around it to hold it in place. This was a bad idea.



Here we can see the difference in the washers that i used on the left and the volvo ones on the right.



Volvo ones left, mine cheep ones on the right. and yes the inside diameter is larger on my cheep ones.



Here it is all out and it was hell getting it out but way worse to get it all back in.



oh ya did i mention that i had to drive 150 miles like this. Cost me 50 bucks in oil. I went through a quart every 50 miles. And gas station oil is expensive. The plus side is the bottom of my car is now rust protected now.



Here it is all back in leek free. you can see the busing and washer setup i used to secure the support arm with. Used a volvo green o-ring and them volvo washers. Well see if this hold up better.




Oil issue update.


Turns out the pip was cracked. not the flux solder but the pipe had a hairline crack 40% of the way around. about 1mm after the flux mark ends. Must be that after 250,000 miles in a 740 with a 13c tempered it. then after the 15g went on and the motor rebuilt. i must have had the pipe in a new position and the 2000 mile break in made it weaken and crack.

My neighbor has a tig see what he can do.

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Old 04-07-2010, 05:47 PM   #23
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Also i did a bit of thread checkup above. Ill still keep adding past photos and explanation for the build until its all done. I hope to tackle the body this summer and then the interior this winter.

My goal for all of this was self motivated but the posting of all this is in vain hope that it will help others. I want more of the new turbo bickers here that are scared of doing their timing belt to think BIG. I had never done a full rebuild. To be brutally honest i thought the motor would explode when i first turned it over. 3,100 miles later and she is running better than ever.

Any one here can do it. Especially with the help of all the wonderful people on these boards. Just take your time don't half ass any thing on the inside of the block and you'll be fine.

Now go do something to your brick and post it dammit!
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Old 04-08-2010, 08:54 AM   #24
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another issue im working on is the dreaded lh2.4 speed signal from the speedometer to the ECU. here is a link to the issue. http://forums.turbobricks.com/showth...highlight=lh2* as malloy1 has figured out. You don't have to have to measure the correct speed. Just have to have the ECU know that its moving up or down. As of right now i have no issue with lh2.4 without it unless i rev the engine up a few times past 6k. so if you take it EZ its not an issue. But this is not a solution but rather a duct tape fix. So i now have something to present toward solving it for good.



Now i jsut have to figure out where to mount the senser from the 740 diff. I'm thinking of making a mount off the tyranny to the drive shaft bolts as suggested by malloy. Problem from this tyranny approach is what if i decide to switch the tyranny to a different model.

Im thinking about mounting it off the diff to the drive bolts there. The issue with this approach is i think having it exposed way back there it will get dirty and foul. Might have to make a shield or something to protect it.

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Old 04-08-2010, 09:02 AM   #25
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Neato! Get the oil issue tackled?
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