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Old 10-11-2018, 09:57 PM   #1
dualcitizen
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Default Charcoal canister/not starting

92 940 turbo. Yesterday the car ran kind of rough as in it was hesitating/pulsing under acceleration but would smooth out at WOT past 4.5K. This evening I tried driving it again and it barely started and ran quite rough, and not long afterwards, it died. Wouldn't restart. After looking under the hood, I noticed that the charcoal canister was lying on the splash guard, completely disconnected from any hoses. The bracket had broken and it fell down. Hooked the lines back up, but no such luck. Still won't start. All the vac lines are in good shape and in their places.

What should I do from here? There is a short hose on the bottom of the canister that is vented to the atmosphere. I suppose this is how it's supposed to be?
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Old 10-11-2018, 10:07 PM   #2
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Just a coincidence. Highly doubtful that those two things are related
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Old 10-12-2018, 10:35 AM   #3
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Any ideas of how to start troubleshooting? It fires once or twice after I quit cranking.
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Old 10-12-2018, 10:57 AM   #4
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I'd start with ZVOLV's guide:
https://forums.tbforums.com/showthread.php?t=316437
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Old 10-12-2018, 11:07 AM   #5
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It started this morning, albeit rather rough. That could have been because of repeated cranking last night, possibly flooded. It ran okay, but when I jabbed the throttle it stumbled a bit, then revved. After the engine temp came up, that seemed to go away.

I don't think the issue is fixed yet.
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Old 10-12-2018, 03:57 PM   #6
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Hmm. I epoxied the bracket for the canister back together and reinstalled it, hooked all the lines back up. Running better than ever now. Will see if there are any issues when the engine is cold from sitting overnight.
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Old 10-13-2018, 09:42 AM   #7
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Your vehicle should be LH2.4 so run the under hood diagnostics and see what codes it pulls. Details on HOW TO found on the UK Volvo 700/900 Maint. pages.
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Old 10-14-2018, 04:30 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dualcitizen View Post
Hmm. I epoxied the bracket for the canister back together and reinstalled it, hooked all the lines back up. Running better than ever now. Will see if there are any issues when the engine is cold from sitting overnight.
That is unusual, unless... your fuel pressure is low and it is making it up by sucking it through the vent line or you have a vac leak already and you pushed it over the edge with this. In any case this is not expected behavior. Disconnected lines at the canister should exhibit high idle due to vac leak and a fuel smell in the engine bay.
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Old 10-22-2018, 11:39 AM   #9
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Just to update this: No issues thus far since repairing the bracket and reinstalling. So far it has been running great, hopefully will continue.
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Old 11-01-2018, 12:46 PM   #10
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Would a bad map sensor cause the stuttering? It's been doing this again. When I get on the throttle it will cut out, almost like a misfire. The plugs are in good shape. I'm thinking it's something electrical and not mechanical because it won't do this all the time. Yesterday I drove for about one way for about 20km and it did this whenever I got into the throttle. When I returned home, the issue wasn't present. I think a mechanical problem would be consistent, and this isn't. Seems like a sensor is bad somewhere, that would be my assumption. Any way to troubleshoot? I'm not enthused about just throwing parts at it.
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Old 11-01-2018, 02:07 PM   #11
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There was a thread days ago that sounded just like this.

Check your distributor for any moisture inside, looked at all of the terminals INCLUDING the center one which CAN break and cause the spark to become erratic and jump. Inspect the **** out of that cap including the wires and check for moisture.
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Old 11-02-2018, 12:52 AM   #12
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Wiggle your crank position sensor wire at idle. it will be very apparent by either shutting off or misfiring if it’s bad.
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Old 11-02-2018, 10:01 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LeedomtoFreedom View Post
There was a thread days ago that sounded just like this.

Check your distributor for any moisture inside, looked at all of the terminals INCLUDING the center one which CAN break and cause the spark to become erratic and jump. Inspect the **** out of that cap including the wires and check for moisture.
This makes the most sense to me. Maybe some moisture or condensation has gotten inside there. After the car has been driven for awhile, the issue goes away which would make sense with moisture evaporating with engine heat. What's weird though, is that smooths back out at 4500 to redline again. It's in the mid rev range that the issue presents itself.
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