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Old 10-03-2018, 12:56 AM   #1
Jack
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Default 240 accessory bushings - what to use ?

blue ipd ones wore out faster than a china fuel pump
Yoshifab ones wore out after 15-20k miles

what else is there ? new OEM ones anygood still ?
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Old 10-03-2018, 01:11 AM   #2
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I like the rubber ones. Maybe try shopping for Beck Arnley? They are usually reboxed oem.
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Old 10-03-2018, 07:18 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack View Post
blue ipd ones wore out faster than a china fuel pump
Yoshifab ones wore out after 15-20k miles

what else is there ? new OEM ones anygood still ?
I used these, not a lot of mileage on them, so I can't talk about long term, but for this price... and, as a bonus, it gives cancer and reproductive harm to California customers.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...287075&jsn=403
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Old 10-03-2018, 08:18 AM   #4
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Yoshifab ones wore out after 15-20k miles
The aluminum ones? If so, surprised.
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Old 10-03-2018, 08:37 AM   #5
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I was going to suggest the Yoshi aluminum ones. I had a blue IPD fail two months ago. If you had a Yoshi aluminum fail, then I don't know what else there is. Maybe have someone make some out of bronze or brass on a lathe?
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Old 10-03-2018, 09:32 AM   #6
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What was the failure mode on the Yoshifab aluminum bushings?
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Old 10-03-2018, 09:44 AM   #7
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Restore it to stock for another ~20 years of driving pleasure.
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Old 10-03-2018, 10:16 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by oldschoolvolvo View Post
What was the failure mode on the Yoshifab aluminum bushings?
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Old 10-03-2018, 01:09 PM   #9
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The aluminum ones get smaller. Might have thrown them out
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Old 10-03-2018, 01:10 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Redwood Chair View Post
Restore it to stock for another ~20 years of driving pleasure.
Thatís what Iím thinking but is OeM any good still ?
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Old 10-03-2018, 01:32 PM   #11
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The blue Uro ones that FCP sold were great until they weren't.
Anyone try the SuperPro urethane ones?
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Old 10-03-2018, 01:56 PM   #12
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alternator


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Old 10-03-2018, 02:31 PM   #13
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Old 10-03-2018, 02:33 PM   #14
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The blue Uro ones that FCP sold were great until they weren't.
Do you have a rough estimate of how long it took?
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Old 10-03-2018, 02:34 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Vincent Gagnon View Post
bracket is/was fine I put used oe bushings and seems to be fine ...




I think I just answered my question

Maybe yoshi and ipd poly wear out because they allow rotation while stock "sticks" in housing
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Old 10-03-2018, 02:36 PM   #16
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.

Last edited by Jack; 10-03-2018 at 02:36 PM.. Reason: moron
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Old 10-03-2018, 03:14 PM   #17
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I put Meyle rubber bushings on my car about 2 years/30k miles ago. The PS and AC bushings still look fine, but the alternator bushings were starting to deform so I replaced them with Volvo bushings. The Volvo and Meyle rubber look the same to me.
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Old 10-03-2018, 03:29 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack View Post
bracket is/was fine I put used oe bushings and seems to be fine ...




I think I just answered my question

Maybe yoshi and ipd poly wear out because they allow rotation while stock "sticks" in housing
I just have a special interest in those bushings (especially the alternator).

This summer, I was working butt**** nowhere (60 miles down a logging road around Horsefly,BC) and the alternator bushings (probably the original ones) deformed and broke the adjusment bracket. I had to drive about 150 miles like this, worked surprisingly good.

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Old 10-03-2018, 04:02 PM   #19
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Wow, those bushings are beat.

You are saying that type of wear came from installing them once and driving 15-20k?
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Old 10-03-2018, 04:09 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vincent Gagnon View Post
I just have a special interest in those bushings (especially the alternator).
Thats a great solution
I hate changing these bushings especially on ac/ps side

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Originally Posted by oldschoolvolvo View Post
Wow, those bushings are beat.

You are saying that type of wear came from installing them once and driving 15-20k?
yes
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Old 10-03-2018, 06:37 PM   #21
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Not sure how those aluminum bushings could wear out unless the bolts weren't properly tightened. The aluminum bushings need to be press fit (0.002" larger than the bore). Put the bushing in freezer to shrink before installing.
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Old 10-03-2018, 06:43 PM   #22
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Stock it to restore.
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Old 10-03-2018, 06:47 PM   #23
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On my DD (40k miles/year), I've gone through several iterations.

My original rubber bushings were beat when I put the car together. I figured 'poly is better' so bought the iPD bushings.

1. iPD poly bushings. They lasted a year or so and that was it.
2. Yoshi aluminum bushings. They also lasted about a year.
3. Yoshi aluminum bushings welded to the arms. Again, about a year (wore out where the bolt passes through).
4. Stock rubber bushings. Lasted about two years.
5. Replacement rubber bushings with a washer added to the outside of each bushing. Three years and counting. I also added a steel spacer on the pivot of the alternator. Blue Loctite on the bracket bolts into the block help prevent them from getting loose (and falling out).

The washer seemed to do the trick. I seem to recall it being a 7/16" fender washer (but you should verify). I suspect its because the force is spread over the face of the bushing rather than just being concentrated at the steel insert. Compressing the bushing slightly helps keep it in full contact with the bushing bore and prevents it from squirming (deforming) under load too much.

Overall, I've been terribly unimpressed with the longevity of any of the poly materials in automotive applications. Mobile One synthetic seems to degrade the material pretty readily and keeping these old motors leak-free is unrealistic.

The conclusion that I've come too is that these old V belts that we use need some minor amount of flex in the pully system that they run in to absorb the harmonic vibrations that they are subject too. If the material is too hard, the bushing doesn't absorb enough and wears rapidly as the cyclic motion of the vibration moves the bushing against the steel bolt/bushing center. The key is to have enough vibration absorption while preventing rotational movement to limit wear.
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Old 10-03-2018, 07:31 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lummert View Post
Not sure how those aluminum bushings could wear out unless the bolts weren't properly tightened. The aluminum bushings need to be press fit (0.002" larger than the bore). Put the bushing in freezer to shrink before installing.
Shiet was tight
They just fit, some slightly tight some not, even yoghurt says it

See below

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Originally Posted by quillc View Post
On my DD (40k miles/year), I've gone through several iterations.

My original rubber bushings were beat when I put the car together. I figured 'poly is better' so bought the iPD bushings.

1. iPD poly bushings. They lasted a year or so and that was it.
2. Yoshi aluminum bushings. They also lasted about a year.
3. Yoshi aluminum bushings welded to the arms. Again, about a year (wore out where the bolt passes through).
4. Stock rubber bushings. Lasted about two years.
5. Replacement rubber bushings with a washer added to the outside of each bushing. Three years and counting. I also added a steel spacer on the pivot of the alternator. Blue Loctite on the bracket bolts into the block help prevent them from getting loose (and falling out).

The washer seemed to do the trick. I seem to recall it being a 7/16" fender washer (but you should verify). I suspect its because the force is spread over the face of the bushing rather than just being concentrated at the steel insert. Compressing the bushing slightly helps keep it in full contact with the bushing bore and prevents it from squirming (deforming) under load too much.

Overall, I've been terribly unimpressed with the longevity of any of the poly materials in automotive applications. Mobile One synthetic seems to degrade the material pretty readily and keeping these old motors leak-free is unrealistic.

The conclusion that I've come too is that these old V belts that we use need some minor amount of flex in the pully system that they run in to absorb the harmonic vibrations that they are subject too. If the material is too hard, the bushing doesn't absorb enough and wears rapidly as the cyclic motion of the vibration moves the bushing against the steel bolt/bushing center. The key is to have enough vibration absorption while preventing rotational movement to limit wear.

Thought about #3 so thatís good to know
Would switch to 7/9 accessory bracket but canít on the 16v with dizzy in block

Will do #4 thank you very much. Awesome write up

What brand ?
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Old 10-03-2018, 07:39 PM   #25
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Quote:
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What brand ?

Whatever it was that Rock Auto (I think) sent me.

I did the same thing (the washers) to the 91 245 that my wife drives on an old set of rubber bushings. Doesn't seem to matter brand as long as you use the washers.

The alternator seems to be the worst/highest wear location.

the #4 scenario was with Volvo NOS bushings (made in Germany).
The #5 scenario was with the 'whatever' brand bushings that Rock Auto sent. They were the cheapest ones that I could find. I had given up and was just going to replace them every year as a matter of course. With the washers and steel spacer in the alternator I haven't had too.
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