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Which turbo is best turbo?

LeedomtoFreedom said:
So this is what I'm understanding

a. either keep the 15g and be happy with quick spools

b. get a larger turbo and suffer from turbo lag

c. get a larger turbo but spend more time on making it spool quicker? eg. exhaust, intake, bearings, blah, blah
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A big one won't spool as fast as a smaller one trust me. I have supporting stuff and it its still not as fast as a smaller mitsu. It''s not a daily so I don't care but if it was....it wouldn't be very fun.
 
Both really. Higher RPM to get spooled, and even above that RPM, more time between off throttle and on-throttle with full boost. But the threshold is the one people tend to notice far more.

It just means that a bigger turbo is not always better. It depends on your goals, and your goals as expressed through how you plan on using the car.

A small motor with a big turbo with big peak HP is *usually* going to be less fun to deal with in daily driving. It's like driving a 90 hp turd of a slow car most of the time, interspersed with occasional brief moments of HOLYCRAPHANGON. There's not a whole lot of in between. The motor is either off boost and not making much HP, or it's spooled up and making 'too much'.

After living with miine for a long while I'm going V8 turbo. More instant normally aspirated HP off boost, less added turbo power on top.
 
Look at t3 flanged gt28s or tial vbanded gt28s. Gotta pay to play, but holyfuk do they just feel good. A buddy ran mitsus for years on his Saab, most recent was a td04hl-16t (Volvo) with an angled flange off a diy t3 log manifold. Spool was great, but in 4th at 1800-2000, you’d stomp on the throttle and get a good 3 count before 18psi was reached. Swapped to a gt2871rs, with a t3>3” vband hot side and now it just feels like it’s loaded with crazy na power. I can get a 1 out before 18psi, sometimes a 2 count.
 
Rebuild the 15g yourself. It will cost not even 50 bucks

Mark the position of the compressor wheel relative to the turbine wheel before disassembly.
Assemble it in the same position.

(not sure if this is totally necessary, as I believe TD04's are component balanced, but it is a good precaution).

I have done this multiple times with great results. Fvck "professional rebuilds".
 
What is a boy to do
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I'll check the prices for a 15g rebuild kit for now and if I chose to later, maybe get a bigger blower. That sounds like the best option

I've heard of people rebuilding kits on their own but not entirely sure if it was safe to do.
 
and you could pay some serious attention to port matching the exhaust side from head to manifold, from manifold to turbine housing, the wastegate port (cost: some good quality diegrinder tools and your own time and input) and offcourse use a nice freeflowing downpipe and exhaust.(at least 2.5") You want to have the biggest pressure drop from manifold to downpipe.
The easier the turbine can get rid of the exhaust gasses, the faster it will spool up. The easier the exhaust gasses can flow into the turbine, the faster it will spool up.
All this detail work will reduce lag and make the turbo spool up quicker and respond to different throttle inputs faster.
 
Janspeed said:
and you could pay some serious attention to port matching the exhaust side from head to manifold,don't do this! from manifold to turbine housing,I have a different opinion too at this point the wastegate port YES!(cost: some good quality diegrinder tools and your own time and input) and offcourse use a nice freeflowing downpipe and exhaust.(at least 2.5")Most important, better a 3" downpipe and cat, after cat 2,5" is enough You want to have the biggest pressure drop from manifold to downpipe.
The easier the turbine can get rid of the exhaust gasses, the faster it will spool up. The easier the exhaust gasses can flow into the turbine, the faster it will spool up.
All this detail work will reduce lag and make the turbo spool up quicker and respond to different throttle inputs faster.
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And again, a lot of people think in a other way than I do. And they never did a test on the dyno or the flow bench.
Regards, Kay
 
mocambique-amazone said:
And again, a lot of people think in a other way than I do. And they never did a test on the dyno or the flow bench.
Regards, Kay
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So you are saying an un-ported manifold out performed a manifold with ported flanges while all things were kept equal? What was the rest of your engine setup?
 
And again, a lot of people think in a other way than I do. And they never did a test on the dyno or the flow bench.
Regards, Kay
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I want to hear more from you, what is your theory

Addendum - I have the 3" angled hotside and 3" exhaust all the way from downpipe, all made by me, so you know it's quality;-)
 
cwdodson88 said:
Look at t3 flanged gt28s or tial vbanded gt28s. Gotta pay to play, but holyfuk do they just feel good. A buddy ran mitsus for years on his Saab, most recent was a td04hl-16t (Volvo) with an angled flange off a diy t3 log manifold. Spool was great, but in 4th at 1800-2000, you?d stomp on the throttle and get a good 3 count before 18psi was reached. Swapped to a gt2871rs, with a t3>3? vband hot side and now it just feels like it?s loaded with crazy na power. I can get a 1 out before 18psi, sometimes a 2 count.
Click to expand...

Truth. If you have a spare $1500 to spend on a turbo, a gt2871rs is the way to go.
 
I've been really happy with my BW EFR. Super slick and tidy internal WG dual scroll with built in boost control valve and CBV.
 
Sjeng said:
So you are saying an un-ported manifold out performed a manifold with ported flanges while all things were kept equal? What was the rest of your engine setup?
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to a certain extent, this would be expected behavior. if all you do is hog out the area around the flange, what you're doing is creating a balloon in the middle.
 
tryingbe said:
There is almost zero gain from 15G to 16T. I wouldn't waste money on it.
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+1! There's what? Barely 50 to 60 CFM difference.

LeedomtoFreedom said:
When I had the 15g in, it spooled mucho quick. Should I sacrifice spool time for some HP gains?
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Depends on what you want, how you want the car to drive, and what you have.

Something that's been known forever is that where the power is can make a vehicle easier to drive/ride quickly. More bottom and and mid-range means you don't have to worry about shifting as much, assuming you have a stick.

If you have an auto and you're not drag racing, a more responsive engine is always the way to go.

OTOH, you can get away with a stick and a larger turbo as you'll have more control over where you are in the rev range.

I prefer a faster spooling setup every time because where and how I like to drive. Country roads, mountain roads, that kind of 5h1t. Rather than having to focus some thought on being in the right gear with a stick, I can focus more on reading the road/situation, line choice, corner entry, and transition back to power.

If you already have a 15g, that's easily upgraded to a 18t, 19t, and even a 22t. Next step up from there if you want more power but would still like some spool (and not break the bank) would be a .48 AR Stg III or Stg V hotside T3/T4.

Yet a third option that everyone here hates is the TD05-12b. Easily built up to a 16g, 18g, and even 20g. They'll knock you because the manifold required is inferior (and it's true) but reported difference in gains was only around 10hp? Not much to worry about and easily accounted for with smart cam choice and the fact that Mitsu G wheels CRUSH those T wheels on the TD04's.

Think about what kind of driving you want to do then go from there and have fun. :)
 
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