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Old 01-30-2019, 10:39 AM   #1
BamfBetty
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Post Junkyard Bound. A 745/302 Story.

Hello All!

The time has finally come for me to join your ranks and make a post. I have wanted to build a V8 Volvo Wagon since high school (10+ years ago) and have greedily absorbed as much info about the swap as possible over the years. This level of project will be a new venture for me so any and all advice would be much appreciated. TestPoint, you are a huge inspiration. As are many of you fine fellow swappers. I humbly thank you.

I searched off and on over the years for a 2/7/9 series as I wasnt too paticular on what I started with, but never found the “right” car, or wasnt in a position to start a project. Well in May of last year, the stars finally aligned and I found a Charcoal Metallic ‘89 745 B230F with an M47 and 462K miles for $500. It had a major water pump leak, a major power steering rack leak, major random rattles, a seized rear brake caliper, a transmission that was not long for this world and one gold fender. But it also had signs it lived a good life not too long ago with a healthy sounding engine that made good power, a nice set of Hydras, four matching tires, IPD sways,Volvo OEM radiator, hoses and accessories, floor mats, roofrack, original keys and manuals all Volvo. The car was gonna be sold in a few days or it was headed to the junkyard so I convinced my girlfriend that if I didnt buy this poor car, the world would surely suffer a tragic loss. Here’s a screenshot of the CL AD.

[IMG]Commercial Photography[/IMG]

Last edited by BamfBetty; 01-31-2019 at 01:14 AM..
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Old 01-31-2019, 01:16 AM   #2
BamfBetty
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My plan is to build a reliable daily with mild power. I dont exactly have a budget other than as cheap as I can get away with. I prefer carburetors to FI for my application and I was more familiar with the 289/302/351 engines, but was still open to whatever came my way locally, as I wasnt into shipping an unknown motor. While I searched for a drivetraian and a place to do the swap (I was living in an apartment at the time) I got to work making the car drivable so I could sort out any issues before adding power. I took a chance on a CarQuest water pump and thermostat and it did suck to install but is doing fine after 1100 miles. I went through 3 junkyard TRW steering racks over 3 months that wernt even worth rebuilding according to my machine shop, until I found a good ZF rack that is working great for now.
Pretty sure I could drop the rack on one of these in under 10 minutes now

3-D487-E8-E-0944-45-CE-AB0-F-B40-FE5-CBEB56


On one of the racks, the aluminum housing for the banjo connectors broke off as I was tightening the bolt. By hand. After inspection it looked like the threads had been tapped.

2-AA4-FCB9-1-A27-42-B6-8152-D32-BE21-A241-C
E92-D23-AE-A419-422-A-A5-E1-BBA42-BC49-E71


Anywho, I replaced the stuck rear caliper and after driving the car for a few miles I noticed a loud rattle on one side going over bumbs. it turned out the nut that tightened the shock absorber to the lower spring perch on the pass front was loose and rubbing on the threads I was able to repair both the male and female threads and around the same time I found a set of IPD lowering springs locally for $200 so I got some cheapo shocks from the local parts store for now, and also replaced the strut mounts/bearings and outter tie rod ends while I had it all apart

IMG-0768

After all this I drove it back and forth to work for a few weeks and also painted the fender to match the stock color. Not bad for a rattle can job eh?

[IMG]IMG-0709[/IMG]


IMG-0935


After 7 loooong months I finally got lucky and found a complete, carb to pan engine, a 302 from a wrecked 1979 Fox Body Pace Car. The motor was still in the car and after cleaning the carb and some new fuel, I was able to see and hear it run before buying for $700. The engine is remarkably stock and ran great. Just have to pull it. Best of all I found it 10 blocks from my house. The seller had the trans available with the engine too that I picked up. It is the four speed SROD that is not that great but I got it for $200 and will be good enough for now. I can always swap to a T-5 later but I was not finding anything in Colorado for under a grand.

IMG-1692


1979 date coded spark plug wires

IMG-1728
dark knight rises airplane scene



IMG-2710


When I first got the car I was living in an apartment and so I was working in the parking lot on Sundays when none of the management were around I have since moved into a house but still no garage until just last week, when I finally secured a one year lease on a 12'x40' detached garage with power, a table vice and grinder, plus an electric remote operated hoist, just a few mins from my house Hopefully I will be progressing with the swap a little more quickly now. Here is how she sits currently

IMG-2751

In the garage I easily have 10 behind and in front of the car.

66-FDE5-BB-C916-4681-84-D0-4357-D7273642

Last edited by BamfBetty; 02-02-2019 at 11:03 AM..
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Old 01-31-2019, 08:18 AM   #3
Chuck W
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Well, I'm not sure a carbed '79 302 is the *best* choice, but I guess do what you gotta do.

Also, the SROD bell is not the same as the T5 bell. Been there, done that. IIRC, you need to locate/drill/tap the trans mount holes, and I think the bore for the trans bearing retainer is smaller, and needs to be opened up.
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Old 01-31-2019, 10:13 AM   #4
BamfBetty
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Whoops, I think I meant to say the bell housing bolt patterns are the same? (To the engine) I remember reading somewhere there are some 302s made before the T5 was adopted, that a T5 wont mate to right? Sorry a lot of the classic stuff is new for me.

There are certainly other engines that might have been a better choice in some way. I mainly based my decision on nostalgia and the fact that I didnt need a lot of power. Speaking of power, as far as I know I think the late 70s/early 80s 302s had something like 140HP. Still a good bump over the B230s 100ish HP but I am planning on deleting the emissions equipment and will use high flow catalytic converters which might net a few more.

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Old 01-31-2019, 01:14 PM   #5
Chuck W
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The 289/302/351 bell/block patterns are the same. If you do a T5 and get a bell with it, that'll bolt up to the '79 block. That, or you can mod your SROD bell, like I mentioned above.
You'll be limited to the 10" diameter clutch with the flywheel you have, but you shouldn't need more than that with the engine you have.

If you change the flywheel, be mindful that the '79 302 has the earlier 28 oz imbalance, vs the 50oz imbalance of the '81+ ones.
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Old 01-31-2019, 02:54 PM   #6
vwbusman66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BamfBetty View Post
Whoops, I think I meant to say the bell housing bolt patterns are the same? (To the engine) I remember reading somewhere there are some 302s made before the T5 was adopted, that a T5 wont mate to right? Sorry a lot of the classic stuff is new for me.

There are certainly other engines that might have been a better choice in some way. I mainly based my decision on nostalgia and the fact that I didnt need a lot of power. Speaking of power, as far as I know I think the late 70s/early 80s 302s had something like 140HP. Still a good bump over the B230s 100ish HP but I am planning on deleting the emissions equipment and will use high flow catalytic converters which might net a few more.
You're best bet to have that engine making some 1/2 decent power with that engine would be to swap on a set of heads with a compression ratio higher than 7.5:1 and a basic intake and 4 barrel carb- maybe even a cam with some numbers worth reading. That stuff, (cheap bottom of the barrel stuff from summit) should get you into the "Man I'm glad I got rid of the B230F" range.
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Old 02-01-2019, 05:05 PM   #7
BamfBetty
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Hey thanks for the info! Roughly what kind of power do you think I would be getting with that set up? I know its hard to measure that kind of thing because of so many other inputs but its my understanding these SROD trannies cant take much more power than what came stock???
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Old 02-04-2019, 07:15 PM   #8
dl242gt
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Well the 289 that I have is a 67 and is rated at 225hp. The early 80s mustang GT were like 225hp as well so that zone should be easy to get to with bolt on parts.
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