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Old 01-02-2014, 08:17 AM   #51
MadDog_945
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Btw... The pics are dark because my garage is kind of a darkroom.. it is just ****ing dark in there.. cold and dark... :(

:D



Some Updates... Coilover and Twinscroll ongoing...


































I hope my math will do the job... made the cutoffs 8cm in lenghth and cutted at an angle of 27°
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Old 01-03-2014, 08:43 AM   #52
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Shocks have arrived...




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Old 01-06-2014, 10:56 PM   #53
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Originally Posted by MadDog_945 View Post
Seat is in...



Problem... If i sit in it the steering wheel would be there where the backside of my kidneys are... Also i can adjust the rearmirrors with my forehead :D

Seems that i need to cut out the brace/tunnel where the factoryseats bolt on to or the harness and airchannels go through


Anybody done that before?
I cut out that seat platform on my 240 when installing racing seats, its bunch of work but needs to be done, you will want the seat way further back, You start to run out of room quick with a helmet on and roll cage tubes eating up space. Aftermarket steering wheel with a hub moves farther back than stock, adding to the problem.

For good handling you will want to sit as far back as you can, if you are really going for it, think about moving the pedals back (an aftermarket floor mount pedal set up is the best).

Also along these lines, your roll cage main hoop should be way back too, not at the B-pilar, or even on the floor but all the way back up on the "shelf" under the old back seat...
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Old 01-07-2014, 03:48 AM   #54
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Awesome.. do you have pics of that ?

I found a position with the seat which is really comfortable for me with original pedalbox and the seatplatform in the car now.. so im thinking about just let everything as is and try it.. but you're right.. the mainhoop cannot be installed directly with the B-pillar.. it has to move to that location where the 242 has its B-pillar..
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Old 01-08-2014, 04:03 AM   #55
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Some stuff i did the last few days to make this stuff fit.. ;)































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Old 01-13-2014, 04:10 AM   #56
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some progress...












I also had a snapped bolt in the bottom bushing.. don't know what it is called in english... that one where the strut rests on... welded on a nut.. snapped 2mm deeper.. helicoiled the **** out of that ****er But i forgot to take pix...

Last edited by MadDog_945; 01-13-2014 at 04:18 AM..
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Old 01-16-2014, 08:08 AM   #57
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Camberplates have arrived











Is it normal that the bearings don't move? Im not able to push them in any direction even not with a lever...
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Old 01-16-2014, 08:51 AM   #58
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Camberplates have arrived
Is it normal that the bearings don't move? Im not able to push them in any direction even not with a lever...
They're normally stiff, but they should move with a lever. Clamp the plate in a vice and put a bar through the middle.

What camber plates are they?
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Old 01-16-2014, 09:28 AM   #59
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Universal Mookeeh, have to drill holes by myself... thx, will try that...
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Old 01-16-2014, 02:37 PM   #60
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What kind of shocks? and how much did those camber plates cost?
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Old 01-17-2014, 04:19 AM   #61
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deCarbons... for now... will be replaced with 8610s/8611s in the future, 80 bucks... ebay: universal Camberplate Datsun, Civic, Accord, blabla..

Look out for the "mookeeh" logo on them.. all the same... probably also the ones douchenozzle used for his camberplatekits



Btw.. those bearings dont move a **** even when bolted to the shock... ?!!



/edit

As you can see the baseplate could be bigger




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Old 01-17-2014, 05:10 AM   #62
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Somtimes its worth spending a bit more for quality camber plates with quality bearings.
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Old 01-17-2014, 06:37 AM   #63
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Originally Posted by 2fast242gt View Post
Somtimes its worth spending a bit more for quality camber plates with quality bearings.
Bababa, you again ;).
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Old 01-17-2014, 08:53 AM   #64
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whack it with a hammer
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Old 01-17-2014, 10:32 AM   #65
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Great build but do not forget on your B234FT
Can you give some advice about the spring stuff on the strut? Where to get it best for a europian guy? (I do not know how is it called but I mean the thing that hold the spring with adjustable nut.)
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Old 01-17-2014, 11:33 AM   #66
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Look out for the "mookeeh" logo on them.. all the same... probably also the ones douchenozzle used for his camberplatekits
I already confirmed that they are. You need to cut out the strut tower so those can sit flush and be adjusted.
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Old 01-18-2014, 01:11 PM   #67
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I already confirmed that they are. You need to cut out the strut tower so those can sit flush and be adjusted.
Ah ok

Were you able to move the bearing?
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Old 01-18-2014, 01:39 PM   #68
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Were you able to move the bearing?
I didn't check all of the ones I sold but typically they did.
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Old 01-18-2014, 01:43 PM   #69
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Nice build!
Here is a link to mine:
http://www.forums.turbobricks.com/sh...d.php?t=242549
It was a lot of fun on the tracks here in California. It just needed a bit more power so you having a 16v +t should be perfect!
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Old 01-18-2014, 01:50 PM   #70
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I don't think you need to move the driver seat around that much, we did not have any clearance problems with the seat/driver/rollcage and I am 6 feet and 215 lbs
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Old 01-18-2014, 01:51 PM   #71
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The bearings in mine move just fine.
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Old 01-22-2014, 09:38 PM   #72
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Wrote them a mail.. lets see what they say...
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Old 02-03-2014, 04:45 AM   #73
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Yeah.. it can move

















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Old 02-08-2014, 10:41 PM   #74
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Did you ever use the 9" coil springs, or stay with the 8"?
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Old 02-13-2014, 05:50 AM   #75
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I never used anything without teh jackstands.. i hope this theoretically **** will function when removing them ;)

My new CageMachine arrived...












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