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Old 02-26-2013, 10:58 AM   #26
doucheNozzle
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Originally Posted by PEGASUS 6 View Post
hydroboost is ill son
Ill? As in has a cold?

My truck has hydroboost. I think it sucks. Please tell me why it's good.
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Old 02-26-2013, 09:22 PM   #27
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Ill? As in has a cold?

My truck has hydroboost. I think it sucks. Please tell me why it's good.
excessive space needed for vac boosters
in confined areas hydoboost and electric pump =awsome
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Old 02-26-2013, 10:15 PM   #28
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For my situation, hydro-boost should provide pedal pressure similar to the vacuum booster and leaves plenty of room to run the factory intake manifold. I will even be able to run the factory master cylinder, which is smaller than the Chevy truck one that came on the hydro-boost. Which means every thing clears and I can run the factory brake setup, until I am ready to upgrade that.

Jeff
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Old 02-27-2013, 11:19 PM   #29
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Finally got it! I got back from work and my adapter was complete.


The machinest added a steel ring to the bell housing side of the adapter, to make it more durable. I guess he figured I might have to install and remove many, many, many times.


In my design, I had to clock the trans 4 deg., so that two of the bolt holes would not overlap. They were very close to each other, but not close enough to use only one bolt.



Now I just need to get a shifter and clutch and flywheel figured out.

960 Automatic Transmission bell housing mated to my Tremec TR3550 transmission

Last edited by AllisonCustoms; 03-04-2013 at 11:08 PM..
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Old 02-28-2013, 12:17 AM   #30
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Well hello there.
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Old 11-10-2013, 08:50 PM   #31
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Default Back at it.

Sorry for the LONG delay since my last post. For those of you who know me and anyone who follows my Facebook page, you will know why. For everybody else, I have spent the last 6 months winding up a 64' Chevelle for a customer. We just got back from SEMA in Las Vegas and as soon as I have time I will throw up a couple of pics. Suffice it to say that ALL of my spare time has been spent on that car. It made a Great debut at SEMA and with just a few details to work out it will be on the road and track in early 2014. If you want to see pics, visit AllisonCustomsOnline.com or my Facebook page Allison Customs.

This means that I can get back on my toy and start moving it forward - at least until the next trash for a customer.

My plans are to rebuild the passenger side engine mount (I just don't like how it came out) and then continue forward with getting everything running before yanking it all apart for cleanup and possibly paint. I kinda of like the idea of it looking beater - total sleeper. Your thoughts?

Also, I started trying to repair the dash but can anyone tell me what later model dashes fit and if my current gauges will still fit?

Finally, I still need help setting up the fuel injection system if anyone has time and know how?

Jeff
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Old 11-10-2013, 10:07 PM   #32
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The hydroboost setup looks sweet! I'm looking forward to more of this build.
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Old 12-13-2013, 10:25 PM   #33
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Default Off Topic - but very cool

So, I mentioned that I had been working on a customer car and that much of my recent time had been taken up getting it ready for SEMA. Well, the first magazine coverage is out - in Sweden - I guess the Swedes like the car or the story - but I sure think its cool ether way.

Anybody know what the article says?
I think most of it is about the owner's podcast business and I think the last line mentions that it was his mother's car.
Am I close?

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Old 12-13-2013, 10:44 PM   #34
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"In 2009, Robert Kibble started the Musclecar Place podcast to talk about muscle car culture and the dream cars at the SEMA show. One day a listener offered to fix up a car for Robert. The Musclecar Place podcast had inspired the listener to quit his job as a pilot and start a shop. The result: a pro-touring restoration of Robert's mother's old Chevelle."
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Old 12-14-2013, 10:36 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Karl Buchka View Post
"In 2009, Robert Kibble started the Musclecar Place podcast to talk about muscle car culture and the dream cars at the SEMA show. One day a listener offered to fix up a car for Robert. The Musclecar Place podcast had inspired the listener to quit his job as a pilot and start a shop. The result: a pro-touring restoration of Robert's mother's old Chevelle."
Thanks for the Translate!!
They got it a little wrong, I did not quit my flying job, but still they got the gist.
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Old 01-06-2014, 09:42 PM   #36
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Default New Years Update 1

So, first let me catch you up on the 64 Chevelle that was debuted at SEMA 2013. While the car is not 100% complete, it is very showable and will be on the track in the Spring of 2014.

There are a whole lot of one off custom parts on the car that I am very proud of and I will include a few pictures of them and some of the final product.
















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Old 01-06-2014, 10:05 PM   #37
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Default New Years Update 2

Just so you don't think the 240 has been sitting for months with no love, Here are a few pictures of the parts I have been collecting for it.

First the wheels I thought I might use - I like the old Enkei Wheels and these looked similar but are really just too small.


Then I found these and I think they are very similar to the turbo wheels, but available in 18".



Of course these required Spacers/adapters, so:



And now I have room for some Big Brakes.
S60 R Rotors and Brembo Calipers for a Dodge Challenger




next I found an upper and lower chassis support




Some new Tail lights


A place for the battery to live


And since I plan to rewire the whole car I thought I would add some creature comforts - Remote Start


I am not sure when all of this will get installed, as I have to work my day job and keep my shop open. I also just finished making my list of parts to get coil overs going, its really close on cost, if I buy tools and parts to build my own or buy them already built. Also I still need a clutch and flywheel. Plus I am still looking for a black or dark gray interior to change everything over. But as parts pile up I get anxious to get back on it.
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Old 01-07-2014, 04:56 PM   #38
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Does anybody know if the following is the correct single mass flywheel for the whiteblock conversion?


Volvo Flywheel (850 S70 V70) - Genuine Volvo 9454772

Brand:Genuine-volvo_
VolvoSKU #:9454772
OE Numbers:9454772, 122056CS ID:122056

Last edited by AllisonCustoms; 01-08-2014 at 02:13 PM..
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Old 01-15-2014, 11:39 AM   #39
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Old 01-15-2014, 12:21 PM   #40
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Any 850 flywheel is going to be single-mass, and yeah, that's the right part number. I know of a couple out here...I could source one for you if you're looking.

Nice job mounting the engine down low...how low is the sump hanging now?

Another member on here is selling a T3350 I'm very tempted to pick up for behind my 5 cyl project.
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Old 01-15-2014, 08:06 PM   #41
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That lower brace hangs down really low. And that strut brace is far from a good design, I do really like the progress and project!
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Old 01-19-2014, 07:56 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by propav8r View Post
Any 850 flywheel is going to be single-mass, and yeah, that's the right part number. I know of a couple out here...I could source one for you if you're looking.
Thanks for the input. If you wouldn't mind checking into a flywheel, I would be very interested.
A new flywheel is $389 plus shipping.

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Nice job mounting the engine down low...how low is the sump hanging now?.
The bottom of the Oil Pan is about 1.5" below the crossmember. I will either be building a skid plate or possibly cutting down the oil pan and pickup to be a little shorter than the crossmember.

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Another member on here is selling a T3350 I'm very tempted to pick up for behind my 5 cyl project.
If you decide to pickup the TR3550, I can should be able to get you all of the dimensions for the adapter plate. (It cost me about $300 to get one made locally - over $100 of that is just the aluminum plate.)
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Old 01-19-2014, 08:05 PM   #43
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That lower brace hangs down really low. And that strut brace is far from a good design, I do really like the progress and project!
I haven't tried bolting it up yet, but my oil pan hangs about 1.5" below the crossmember, so maybe the brace would help protect the pan.

I agree with you on the upper brace, it looked better in the pics. I am thinking of cutting the strut tower brackets off and flipping the bar to the rear. Then adding some braces to the firewall. I also want to use the upper engine mount to help stabilize the engine, so I am thinking of tying that into the upper brace also.
My engine mounts are very strong but are so low on the engine, I am concerned the engine may rock back and forth excessively.

Thanks for the input.
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Old 01-19-2014, 09:43 PM   #44
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Default Update 01-20-2014


I decided I didn't like my passenger side engine mount , it was ugly and more importantly in the way. It is hard enough to R&R the engine and trans as a unit without the mount standing up in the way. I think for the final assembly I will remove the engine bay cross member just to keep from scratching everything up.


Here the cross member is out and I am redesigning everything to make more room.


Cleaning up the cross member for cutting and welding.


I welded in the two side supports and then added a piece of 1.5" tubing to span the gap. All of this was added before any cutting took place, so as not to warp or twist the cross member out of shape. when done, there won't be any open areas to catch road trash and water.
My thinking was to gain some room for the oil pan to clear the cross member during installation and removal. Everything clears just fine if doing just the engine, but with the trans attached there isn't quite enough room.


I then added two plates that can be removed and using my original side mount, I welded it to the upper plate. Then to brace that up (which is probably overkill) I added a piece of 1" DOM to the lower plate and up under the joint at the bushing sleeve.


Different view of the Passenger side mount.


Here is the underside, as you can see only one corner of the oil pan is showing. I think either a skid plate or a modification to the pan may be required.

I have also acquired a 2000 Mustang hydroboost unit and 1 1/16" bore master cylinder. I plan to switch over to this unit instead of my GM truck one I got last summer. The new unit is a little smaller and needs less modification to fit. The truck unit was going to need a couple of machined adapters and both the input and output actuator rods modified. I think the mustang unit will only need a bushing where the rod attaches to the pedal.

Last edited by AllisonCustoms; 01-19-2014 at 10:10 PM.. Reason: adding text
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Old 01-22-2014, 02:15 AM   #45
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Default Update 1-21-2014

I made it over to the machine shop today and we cut my old rear rotors down to fit in the S60R rotors. I don't remember who's thread I first read about this trick on, but it sure works great!!





With the rotor cut from the hat the S60R rotor fits very nicely


Brake hat, Rotor and adapter all installed. As an interesting side note, prior to changing to this brake setup, I needed to cut down all of the studs or the wheels would not sit flat against the adapter. Now, it appears that everything is going to clear nicely.


Plenty of room inside the wheel.
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Old 01-22-2014, 09:01 AM   #46
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Careful not to over tighten those tail lights or they'll spit out their lenses.
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Old 01-22-2014, 02:32 PM   #47
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Careful not to over tighten those tail lights or they'll spit out their lenses.
high quality stuff - huh?
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Old 01-22-2014, 03:00 PM   #48
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Nice, your doing the porshe brakes aswell?
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Old 01-22-2014, 04:05 PM   #49
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remote start is so nice on cold mornings. sooooooo nice. people give me funny looks when they find out i have remote start on a 240. people will give you funny looks when they find out you have remote start... and a t6
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Old 01-22-2014, 09:55 PM   #50
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Nice, your doing the porshe brakes aswell?
No, I am actually using some 4 piston Bembo calipers. They were used on one of the Dodge Chargers during the Fast 6 movie.


Last edited by AllisonCustoms; 01-22-2014 at 10:38 PM..
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