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Old 11-08-2018, 09:38 PM   #351
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Reading your post made me think that I must have forgotten something...and I did, oops. I swapped my original 1030 rear end for a 1031 from an 89-ish 240. Then I did the G80 swap from a 9-series car, but swapped my 1031 ring gear over. I feel kinda silly that I forgot that part...I guess it's been a long project, lol.

When I swapped the ring gear over, I swear I checked the part numbers and counted the teeth, but maybe I did it wrong. I've tried a bunch of different final drive vs. RPM calculators, busted out the pen and paper, and even tried using an abacus...but the tach output from the megasquirt doesn't lie I guess. It's a hoot for NA driving though, so I'm kinda glad I accidentally ended up with it .
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Old 11-09-2018, 01:53 PM   #352
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SO LONG as you swapped the ring gear to match the pinion in your 89 gearing to the G80, would will be golden on pinion depth..... the backlash setting which came later with your G80 and probably new shims beneath those bearings preloaded them properly, all is well.

Every DANA gear in the Volvo's that I've seen (maybe a dozen now) all have the tooth count stamped right on the ring. I've got the 4.10 in my DD behind a AW71, and while I'm glad to have the 10% torque increase, I won't be happy about the droning on the interstate. Does your AISIN gearbox have a locking OD? That would be the last move I'd make on the DD, to find a 95 model AW71L and in conjunction with the 4.10 would put me right where the stocker 3.73 gearing would have been.
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Old 11-09-2018, 03:05 PM   #353
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Yep, I swapped the original 1031 ring gear on to the G80, and double checked the tolerances before buttoning it up. That's why I'm so confused, to be honest, because I even used the stampings on the side of the gear...and it looked like a 3.73. Unless my math is way off, I definitely missed something. My tire size is 205/55-16, with a rolling diameter of 24.9", and with a 3.73 and .68-ish lockup, I get 21xx RPM. With a 4.10 and the same data, I get 23xx rpm, which is bang on.

Of course, these are all done with online calculators or math that assumes my rolling diameter is 100% accurate. Maybe it's shorter than the math says, due to tire wear, 32psi instead of 42psi, etc.
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Old 11-11-2018, 09:56 PM   #354
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Yep...I'm an idiot.
I was basing the math on a .70 4th/OD, but when I dug up the 960 greenbook, it turns out to be a 0.75...which would line all the math up perfectly with a 3.73.

I'm glad it's winter, I guess I need a break :P.
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Old 12-02-2018, 01:58 PM   #355
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I may not be working on the car this winter...but I am certainly buying parts .
Stopped at the local scrappers the other day to grab some miscellaneous stuff to flog on ebay for a few extra dollars...to fund the coming boost .
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Old 12-02-2018, 02:26 PM   #356
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Broke4speed View Post
I may not be working on the car this winter...but I am certainly buying parts .
Stopped at the local scrappers the other day to grab some miscellaneous stuff to flog on ebay for a few extra dollars...to fund the coming boost .
But... but... itb's....?
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Old 12-02-2018, 03:34 PM   #357
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It's a long winter, plans could change. I might decide to do nothing to the car and just enjoy it the way it is . Stay tuned ;).
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Old 12-15-2018, 10:17 PM   #358
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Read your whole thread...great work! I would love to do a similar swap at some point.

Did you sort out your hot-start issue?
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Old 12-15-2018, 10:39 PM   #359
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Thanks!
I did sort it out. I ended up adding a 3.3k ohm resistor between the VR sensor wires. I tried a 4.9k, and it worked, but I was able to bring the value down to 3300 and still have the same results. Now it starts up clean when cold and hot .
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Old 12-15-2018, 10:58 PM   #360
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Cool...I'll admit I'm a MS n00b so forgive me if this is an obvious question, but where do you have the VR sensor mounted on the whiteblock? Are you referring to the OE cam position sensor?
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Old 12-16-2018, 10:02 AM   #361
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I'm using the stock crank position sensor, the one mounted over the flywheel .
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Old 12-16-2018, 03:13 PM   #362
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I've caved. I wasn't going to boost it, but I get bored...

All the +T/T6 swaps here have ended up using fancy schmancy tubular manifolds and other such stuff...but mine will just be a simple, old-school log manifold. I hope to be able to use a 'big' 16G TD05 I have here, since the 5cyls get away with TD04-based stuff. I pulled a T6 head at the scrappers today, so I can bolt everything down when I weld it. I never want to do that again...what a pain in the a**. S80s are truly awful cars.

I took two 5cyl NA manifolds, cut the runners off, and took three from each one. Doing a three/three gives it a bit of expansion room for heat, if that's an issue. It's probably better than doing a 5+1 anyway.

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Old 12-24-2018, 02:39 PM   #363
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I'm missing ONE part to complete the +T. Looks like it'll be after xmas.
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Old 12-25-2018, 10:23 PM   #364
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What is the static compression ratio of your inline 6 whiteblock? Do they have knock sensors? Just wondering how much boost it will tolerate and if your ECU will be able to pull timing as the boost climbs?
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Old 12-26-2018, 08:30 AM   #365
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According to the greenbooks, it's 10.7:1. I've boosted high compression engines before, but I'll just be a bit more careful with this one. I'm not running the knock sensors with the megasquirt, but I do have water/meth injection in the car already. I put it in with the B21+T, so that will definitely help keep it together. I'm not really too worried, but those might be famous last words ;).
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Old 12-26-2018, 11:13 AM   #366
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Broke4speed View Post
I'm missing ONE part to complete the +T. Looks like it'll be after xmas.
And what part is that?
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Old 12-26-2018, 01:54 PM   #367
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The T3 flange to finish the manifold . Should be this week if I'm lucky!
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Old 01-14-2019, 10:16 PM   #368
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2019!

Holiday hiatus is over, and work begins on some new/unneeded mods!

Might be converting to Speeduino, for the hell of it.




Sold my Lincoln 140 110v MIG and replaced it with a 200 amp, 220v 'Hitbox MIG 200'. Pure chinesium, but it seems to work really well. This will allow me to finish my manifold, since the little 140 just couldn't hack it.

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Old 02-11-2019, 11:51 AM   #369
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Winter sucks. A garage full of parts to install...except it's too damn cold. All the insulation in the world won't help when you're laying on a cold concrete floor.
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Old 02-21-2019, 01:37 PM   #370
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If I keep telling myself I'm not boosting my car, I'll stop collecting parts, right?

-S80T injectors (the usual orange turbo ones)
-Homemade log manifold
-Oil sandwich plate for oil feed
-trans temp gauge (ok, that's not a turbo part)
-10' of 10AN line and a bunch of fittings

Not in the picture is the turbo, oil scavenge pump, and PWM controller to extend the duty cycle to infinity. If I get lazy and don't want to drill the block/pan with it in the car, I'll just return the oil to the oil cap and call it a day. I'm still looking for an S80T block though, and would much rather do it that way instead of +T'ing my NA B6.

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Old 02-21-2019, 04:54 PM   #371
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Seems to me the oil return is already cast into the block and just needs to be drilled? I'm going to take the risk and drill it.
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Old 02-21-2019, 05:56 PM   #372
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Oh yeah, it's there on mine too. I don't want to take the engine out, and dropping the pan is also not a job I want to tackle, so I'm hesitant to do it in-car. I don't know if grease on the drill/tap would be enough to ensure swarf would stay off the crank. I don't plan to do anything now, but maybe I'll feel different when it's not -20*C all the time, lol. I don't really feel like dropping the subframe to get the pan off when the garage floor has ice on it :(.

If I can hold off until the warmer weather, blocks are $190 CDN at my local scrappers. I have to pull it though, so laziness level is a huge factor too.

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Old 03-21-2019, 08:20 PM   #373
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Happy birthday to me!
The ampseal breakout boards I made for my speeduino conversion showed up today, and they actually seem to fit/work. They're the first boards I've ever designed, and while they may not be complex, I'm pretty happy with them . Minimum quantity was 5, but it only cost me $26 CDN, shipped, so I'm not going to complain.

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Old 03-21-2019, 09:55 PM   #374
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I'm very excited to hear how things go with speeduino. Can't figure out how to get it to work with tunerstudio as of yet.
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Old 03-23-2019, 08:54 AM   #375
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Broke4speed View Post
Oh yeah, it's there on mine too. I don't want to take the engine out, and dropping the pan is also not a job I want to tackle, so I'm hesitant to do it in-car. I don't know if grease on the drill/tap would be enough to ensure swarf would stay off the crank. I don't plan to do anything now, but maybe I'll feel different when it's not -20*C all the time, lol. I don't really feel like dropping the subframe to get the pan off when the garage floor has ice on it :(.

If I can hold off until the warmer weather, blocks are $190 CDN at my local scrappers. I have to pull it though, so laziness level is a huge factor too.
If you still want a block I have one in the garage I could bring up to Casselman next time I'm up to Moose Creek. It still has the crank and pistons in it but no head...
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