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#51 | |
Ronald Culberbone III
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Portland, OR
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![]() Quote:
For weld prep in tight areas, I've found that a flat wire wheel in the drill is about the greatest thing since sliced break. The lower speeds of the drill keep it from melting the undercoating and it will actually rip it off the metal. Garth and Kyle at Trackside swear by this: https://store.snapon.com/Remove-All-...l-P644425.aspx At $550, I'm never going to buy one. They do amazing shell prep on all of their rally cars, and they don't use dry ice or liquid nitrogen. |
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#52 | |
Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Santa Cruz CA
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![]() Quote:
Speaking of effectiveness, I've been lacking in that department this week with a double whammy of strep throat and poison oak. Nothing has been stopping Al though. I'll be up there next week hopefully for a few consecutive days to knock more crap out. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
__________________
- Patrick 83 244ti - road race 83 244ti - rally 73 1800es - resto 08 c30 T5 6spd - daily 97 dakota 5.2 4x4 single cab short bed - apocalypse mobile |
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#53 |
yv1a.com
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Kitsap, Wa
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![]() Being a cage noob....
Is it common to open up the roof like that and then weld it back up? |
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#54 | |
Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Santa Cruz CA
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![]() Quote:
In this case, we were eliminating the sunroof that came stock [it was a Turbo model] so we had to eliminate the tray it sat in as well as cutting out the opening where the sunroof was. Gives good access to weld everything up as well as getting it tucked as close to the roof as possible which is ideal. We will be welding a panel back in there with roof vents. |
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#55 | |
240 Ninja
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Central California
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![]() Quote:
Why do people always put the rear down bars to the fender wells and not the area right above the shock?!? Drives me nuts.
__________________
![]() -Patrick |
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#56 | |
Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Santa Cruz CA
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![]() Quote:
Either way at some point down the line the back stays will be tied in to real shock towers once it comes time |
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#57 |
Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Santa Cruz CA
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#58 |
Ronald Culberbone III
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Portland, OR
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![]() If you're running stock rear suspension links, reinforce the weld nuts for the upper links (but you probably already know this). I made a sweet little drill guide to hole saw out the stock weld-nut, and some fancy double shear brackets. 2hrs of work and infinite peace... oooohhhhhmmmmmm.
Will post back with some photogs. |
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#59 | |
yv1a.com
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Kitsap, Wa
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#60 |
Ronald Culberbone III
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Portland, OR
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![]() Drill bushing I made that threads into the stock weld nut, and leaved you with a nice hole:
![]() ![]() Then make some plates out of 1/8in flat bar, drill a hole for the link bolt, and weld a nut to the backside. I used some 1/8in thick strap that was 2in wide and 6in long to reinforce the floor area for the in-board tab. Add in a cheap crappy MIG and overhead welding to get this: ![]() |
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#61 |
yv1a.com
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Kitsap, Wa
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![]() That's exactly what I was picturing for the bracket. Innovative use of the bolt as a drill guide. I like it.
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#62 |
Ronald Culberbone III
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Portland, OR
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![]() The only downside is that you can no longer use the factory in-board bracket... Well I guess you could if you opened up the mounting hole a bit. It does a nice job of tying the upper and lower link mounts together.
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#63 |
Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Santa Cruz CA
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![]() Hell yeah thanks for the advice on that. I know we were doing some reinforcements and building a "ski jump" for the front trailing arm mount. Was not sure what the plan was for the torque rods
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#64 |
240 Ninja
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Central California
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![]() If you are going through that much effort, raise them up into the rear seat area for better geometry and longer rods.
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#65 |
Ronald Culberbone III
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Portland, OR
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#66 |
240 Ninja
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Central California
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#67 |
Ronald Culberbone III
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Portland, OR
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![]() But what I'm trying to get at is.... why is that better?
Why are parallel links better? Why not xx% anti-squat? How much roll steer do you want or need? |
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#68 |
Ronald Culberbone III
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Portland, OR
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![]() The trailing arms on a Volvo are already 24in long.
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#69 | |
Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Santa Cruz CA
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![]() Quote:
Once I feel like I have my end of the deal all together [driving], I'll start messing with things like that if I really feel the need. I see enough people doing fine with it who have ran it that way for years where I think it will be fine for me to start with instead of trying to get too creative off the bat. |
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#70 | ||
240 Ninja
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Central California
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![]() Quote:
![]() I know you know the basics of this stuff at least and you were more or less just goading me into writing something for informations sake, but I'm over it. Here's the pics I uploaded at least... Factory Group A car: ![]() ![]() Then someone taking it even farther on a modified 240: ![]() Quote:
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#71 | |
Ronald Culberbone III
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Portland, OR
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![]() Quote:
I went to A-n-T and measured the rear suspension geometry for both a mk1 Escort rally car (the REAL deal) and Garth's Starlet rally car. These cars both had links that were all 25in long, but they were set up with 45% (Escort) and 30% (Starlet) anti-squat. I need to crawl under the volvo and measure the links, but I'm guessing that it is in the 60+% range. From the top Gr.A picture, you can see that the top link is raised about an 1in, and that would lower the amount of anti-squat. The longer upper link will also limit the amount of pinion change in bump/drop compared to stock. It will also keep the rear wheels from moving forward (as much) when the suspension goes into major bump. I could see that as being helpful for rally. As far as what is needed, the VOC cars and F-Cup volvos seem to be going really fast with just stock rear links. But that doesn't mean that an improvement couldn't be made, I just think that there's lower hanging fruit that need to be taken care of first. Last edited by culberro; 02-21-2017 at 09:08 PM.. Reason: Found the AS%s and updated the post. |
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#72 | |
Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Santa Cruz CA
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![]() I think so. Rally is a whole different game but I am kinda going at it the same way I did stock cars - just drive the car the first year, make changes and be more aggressive once you get the hang of it. I did that the second year and I went from finishing top 5 - top 10 nightly to consistent podiums.
Quote:
Been making weekly trips up to Al's to work on the car. It's taken a little bit of time but it's just about ready for paint now that the whole pan is clean. Going to paint the tub/engine bay/trunk area gloss white for cleaning and crack spotting. ![]() ![]() I got a 244 parts car, so the roof panel will get a patch from that car, as well as other odds and ends like side windows,manual regulators, and door cards. As far as exterior paint, I decided the hood, roof and trunk top will be white to keep heat down. One of the events I am doing is Gorman Ridge and it gets hot there in August. The sides from the trim line down will be red, blitz black and a little gold. ![]() ![]() Recently been ordering a lot of the parts to get the cat totally complete. Got most of the safety equipment out of the way. ![]() Got a nice handbrake. Also ordered up everything to completely re plumb the brake circuit with mostly AN3 connections, and will have single line 240 ABS front calipers and a bias valve in the center console. ![]() Also scored a RSI Stage II cam. Not sure if it's going in this car or the Lemons car just yet. ![]() |
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#73 | |
240 Ninja
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Central California
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![]() Pat, car is looking great and I admire how much you guys get done.
Are you putting real paint on or just bomb cans like the lemons car? Quote:
I agree with the low hanging fruit theory, but you were in there cutting and welding already is why I brought it up. On the Group A pics the upper mount is probably a good 2" above stock. If you look carefully you can also see where they lowered the bottom mount about an inch also. Regarding the VOC cars... going fast compared to what? That seems kind of like an irrelevant comparison because it's not really comparing. We go fast in ITB compared to ITD. ![]() |
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#74 | |
Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Santa Cruz CA
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![]() Quote:
I might spraybomb the cage while the glass is out But I found a connection via Ken with a spraybooth [Masters Auto Body in Daly City] that will be doing the exterior when it is ready. I'm ordering up the last round of parts, and once I have everything ready I am going to go up there and get it running and driving. Thanks for the compliments. I've been happy with the progress but I'll call it a success when we finish Olympus. Last edited by pat244ti; 03-02-2017 at 12:20 AM.. |
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#75 |
Board Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Santa Cruz, CA
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![]() If for some reason that paint hook up falls through, I know a guy down in Watsonville who does great work too.
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